Darryl S. Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 (edited) I'm an idiot, forgot to tilt the outboard after cleaning the boat and have broken the skeg off when backing the boat back in the garage. Anyone know if this is repairable or am I going to be up for a new housing? I'm so damn cranky with myself Edited April 26, 2009 by Darryl S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evets Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 Repairable. Huey posted a few piccies a few months back of a skeg repair he did. Once it was completed and painted you honestly couldnt tell it had been repaired. PM Huey I am sure he can help. Evets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxhoon1 Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 Any good alloy welder will weld this, then grid it back and paint it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl S. Posted April 26, 2009 Author Share Posted April 26, 2009 (edited) Thank goodness its fixable then!! Edited April 26, 2009 by Darryl S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micksfishn Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 dont panic man can be repaired Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WANNAFISH Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 It can be repaired properly by a good TIG welder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnno Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 You just may need to work out which is cheaper but as all others have said it is fixable. Just make sur ethe welder knows what he is doing ie not putting to much heat in the leg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
achjimmy Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 Just make sur ethe welder knows what he is doing ie not putting to much [/u]heat in the leg. Thats the trick, the crack is right near the bearing retainer bolt hole and will not be a straight forward weld job. It would be wise to price a replacement as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentstik Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 My cousin did the same thing with his 60 hp merc, got a price on a 2nd hand bottom half and was looking at $600. Got it welded for $300 and they did a top job. Cheers Silvo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WANNAFISH Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 Heating the aluminium properly is the proper way to weld this things. Thats why pro welders use TIG welder to penetrate thru the metal by means alot of heat or else it will eventually crack. Any parts made out off rubber needs to be removed as theres a big chance of melting. Some welders will use a modified MIG welder to suit aluminium welding but does not produce enough heat to penetrate thru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pelican Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) I would be very careful on who I would get to weld that one because of the way it has cracked. May be a lot safer to pull the box apart and then weld. $300 for welding - ouch What brand , size motor is it? Check there is not a bent prop shaft, gearbox damage or bent prop before you go any futher and also that is probably claimable on insurance. If it is insurance I would try for a new case as welded one will always be a compromise in strength and paint protection for corrosion. Edited April 27, 2009 by pelican Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abiasin Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 just get it welded back on mate. i did the same thing and a mate welded it up for me in a few minutes. splash a bit of paint on and you wont even remember it happened lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jewgaffer Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 I would try for a new case as welded one will always be a compromise in strenght and paint protection for corrosion. Pel I've often thought about it and Bob might be also concerned in the topic he posted today about the blisters in paintwork after a petrol leak as to whether corrosion would occur more in a painted alloy boat than it would in an unpainted alloy boat as wasnt the case after getting paint chips etc in painted boats or having grazes in the hulls of unpainted boats that I've owned in the past ... the unpainted ones seem to naturally fade a bit but remained corrosion free.... Does corrosion occur under the paint work in painted boats after having grazes and missing paint here and there etc and do unpainted alloy boats with the same type of scrapes etc have more protection by not being painted ? Cheers jewgaffer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pelican Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) exposed alloy has that layer on it's surface of oxidisation and that protects it from fast corrosion. A painted coating stops even that layer of oxisation as there is no water and air contact. On painted boats due to the perfectly faired surface any slight corrosion under he paint of impurities in the ally look really obvious as they stand out . Not sure if the corrosion is any worse than the normal oxidising layer but it sure looks worse. In a lot of cases the blemishes on a painted hull wouldn't even be notices on a non pained job. There is howerver some exceptions and that is where there is a reason for that corrosion being more than just the oxidisation layer. In a painted hull somnetimes as the rest of the hull is well coating protected a exposed area cops the concentrated corrosion from the boat caused by galvanic or electrolysis as it is the weak link. Every different corrosion example has it's own causes and solutions. Seeing a lot of moored boats I know that original manufacturers coating are pretty good and once a lot of alloys are exposed to water, oil welding etc they are very hard to get a perfect paint finish that lasts on them as long as the original. The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to ensure no contamination and decent coating quality and thickness. They also use some chemical undercoats that can't be used outside sealed paint rooms like the aircraft chrome undercoats. I have had some welded up before and not had issues ( none snapped so close to the box and most just chipped ends) but have seen other that are a ongoing nightmare so well worth getting the right job done. If I was getting that one welded I would be being very careful of gaerbox seals, distortion , and ensure that the lower bolt isn't frozen in afterwards. Edited April 29, 2009 by pelican Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanfo Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 If you dont want to weld it then there is a plastic skeg that is produced by blackfin, it maybe an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
achjimmy Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 I would be very careful on who I would get to weld that one because of the way it has cracked. May be a lot safer to pull the box apart and then weld. $300 for welding - ouch What brand , size motor is it? Check there is not a bent prop shaft, gearbox damage or bent prop before you go any futher and also that is probably claimable on insurance. If it is insurance I would try for a new case as welded one will always be a compromise in strength and paint protection for corrosion. Pel you are right on the money, The filler rod used when welding is soft and the alloy around the weld deforms and softens as well. The proximity to the bearing carrier and retainer bolt is the concern here. It is definitely repairable but to guarantee the job this is how would do it. Remove all internals If you have access to a lathe I would turn a spigot to go in the bearing keeper plate area to reduce distortion (optional) Remove the paint well away from the area to be welded sand area (to remove containments) and vee grind out mating surfaces. Preheat the casing to approx 250-300c for an hour (this soaks the heat and reduces distortion when the Tig torch applies 1000+c to the area to be welded. Often with oil contaminated things like gear casing the heating in the oven will cause the oil to film on the recently cleaned area, so you quickly sand the previously cleaned area and mating surfaces (hot). Then weld it. Regrind any areas you feel may have weld issues I then put it back in the now switched off oven and let them cool slowly. When finished dress up the weld and I would put a helicoil insert in to the lower keeper plate bolt if the weld got anywhere near it in the end (as it will soften the bolt hole and it will strip and the worst time otherwise) As mentioned previously it may be cheaper for a new housing. Some may think the above is over the top, and indeed it may but as I said at the start, I would grantee the above repair and is how many expensive components on Aircraft, race cars and other things have been fixed. Good luck and I feel for you, I have pulled my boat out of the garage twice and left the skeg down! I now have big note on the front I leave to remind me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
achjimmy Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) Have you spoken to site sponsor Seriously Stainless? A fabricator may have the gear to weld Alluminium. Brickman is his site name. Edited April 29, 2009 by achjimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodgey Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Have you spoken to site sponsor Seriously Stainless? A good fabricator should have the gear to weld Alluminium. Brickman is his site name. All of his contact details are located on the following link: Seriously Stainless Cheers Hodgey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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