Trailer Bearings

[BreamChaser]

Hi All

For years i've had problems with the bearings on my trailer.

Whether it be the back seal leaking or the dust cap coming off and salt water getting in.

I am sick and tired of having to replace bearings so often (Would be happy if once a year i could pull them down clean and grease them up and forget about them. As it is every time i head out i'm having to check them (and or fix them).

I spoke to a bloke about these trailer mate things i had heard about where they have a greese nipple on them and they are sealed off. He said there were two problems:

1. They normally get stolen (we really do live in a fck'd up world sometimes).

2. After a short period of time you end up with two much greese in them and you need to pull it all down anyway.

Anyone got an ideas or solutions they have come up with for sealing trailer bearings off effectively?

Cheers Adam

[deek]

I don't use them but have a look at Durahubs

[rickb]

Hi Breamchaser,

I have a tandem trailer fitted with bearing buddies,

one of the raiders BOOFHEAD,give us a clue by tapeing the dust covers on.

I put my boat in off the beachand retrieve the same way.

Have taken it to lake awoonga in qld twice ,I checked them all two

weeks agoand I could have left the old ones in,but 5,000 k's was

long enough for me,especially now they have a new rear seal.

Cheers Rick.

[wrxhoon1]

Your problem is the seals, if you have normal double lip seals check the stub where the seal sits , if its not 100% clean and smooth it will leak as soon as you put the trailer in the water.You need to get marine type seals but you still need the stub to be fairly clean. I use a normal double lip seal but I have S/s sleeves on my stubs and I never have any problems. I also use Bearing buddies ( bearing buddy brand)pump the gease in to them until the spring rocks that way when i go to the ramp and the huds are hot from the brakes water can't be sucked in as the cold water cools them down. I check them once a year or before a long trip. When I want to check them I pull the B/B off and if the grease looks clean ( they always are)I don't even bother to check the bearings, at best I'll check the outer ( small) because I don't have to pull the seal off. If you pull the seal off you must replace it with a new one .

[Geoff]

Adam Have a scroll through this post , it may answer some of your questions

http://www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/index.php?showtopic=48157&hl=Geoff&st=0

Sounds like you have the same problem I have with water entering between the stub axle & the seal.

As others have said , the stub axle needs to be clean but if there is slight rust pitting I used Sikaflex 291 around the axle & Valplex M wheel bearing grease.

Geoff

[BWV]

Get emery cloth and rub the stub back and around the area where the inner seals sits, you want to smooth the area up for a good fit. I use an adheasive water proof grease on the outside of the inner seal and stub and i find it works well. If you have some slight damage on the axle stub you can use a lock tight shaft or bearing glue to hold everthing in pace ( i find it work very well and I have got a lot longer life out of my bearings.But to remove the bearing after the loc tight is applied you will need to use and oxy.

[BreamChaser]

Thanks to all...

Bit a work ahead of me this weekend.

Geoff at of curiousity.. I read through your post and yes i think we have the same issue... Which way did you end up going?

[Geoff]

Thanks to all...

Bit a work ahead of me this weekend.

Geoff at of curiousity.. I read through your post and yes i think we have the same issue... Which way did you end up going?

Adam If your refering to Bearing Buddies V's Durahub , I went with the BB as I had already purchased a set just prior to posting the topic.

From the comments Durahub are certinally worth considering but regardless of the system chosen the main issue is to prevent water migrating past the rear seal.

If you choose to use Sikaflex or a similar product around the stub axle , a tip regarding application & the fitting of the seal.

After sanding the stub axle clean with a degreaser then wipe with metho to ensure surface is clean & free of oil residue.

Apply the Sikaflex around the stub axle where the seal will be sitting.

Slide the seal onto the axle , approx 2 mm , ie just enough to get it started.

Fit the hub & screw on the hub nut.

As the hub moves back it will push the seal into the correct position on the axle

Geoff

[BreamChaser]

If you choose to use Sikaflex or a similar product around the stub axle , a tip regarding application & the fitting of the seal.

After sanding the stub axle clean with a degreaser then wipe with metho to ensure surface is clean & free of oil residue.

Apply the Sikaflex around the stub axle where the seal will be sitting.

Slide the seal onto the axle , approx 2 mm , ie just enough to get it started.

Fit the hub & screw on the hub nut.

As the hub moves back it will push the seal into the correct position on the axle

Geoff

Thanks Geoff

Is the Sikaflex just used to make the area smooth and clean where the seal will set (i.e. wait til it has dried before putting seal and hub back on).

Or put seal and hub on while Sikaflex is still wet so that it holds it all in place and seals it off?

How strong is the Sikaflex. How hard is to get the seal off down the track when checking / chanding under normal routine?

Thanks for your help.

[Geoff]

Thanks Geoff

Is the Sikaflex just used to make the area smooth and clean where the seal will set (i.e. wait til it has dried before putting seal and hub back on).

Or put seal and hub on while Sikaflex is still wet so that it holds it all in place and seals it off?

How strong is the Sikaflex. How hard is to get the seal off down the track when checking / chanding under normal routine?

Thanks for your help.

As I understand , Sikaflex is a silicon based product. Apply the Sikaflex & whilst wet fit the seal, approx 2mm onto the axle.

The product begins to dry rather quickly so fitting the seal , then the hub should be completed within a few minuits.

Suggest you purchase the 100ml tube not the 310ml cartridge. The product tends to go off once opened so if you decide to dispose , the 100ml is the least expensive

Like other silicon products when dry it is reasonably strong . To remove , just pull the seal off with your fingers.

Any residue can be easily cleaned off with a knife or similar sharp instrument. Small residue can be cleaned off with a wire brush.

Geoff

Edited July 8, 2010 by Geoff

[BreamChaser]

Thanks Geoff

[wrxhoon1]

Thanks Geoff

Is the Sikaflex just used to make the area smooth and clean where the seal will set (i.e. wait til it has dried before putting seal and hub back on).

Or put seal and hub on while Sikaflex is still wet so that it holds it all in place and seals it off?

How strong is the Sikaflex. How hard is to get the seal off down the track when checking / chanding under normal routine?

Thanks for your help.

As I understand , Sikaflex is a silicon based product. Apply the Sikaflex & whilst wet fit the seal, approx 2mm onto the axle.

The product begins to dry rather quickly so fitting the seal , then the hub should be completed within a few minuits.

Suggest you purchase the 100ml tube not the 310ml cartridge. The product tends to go off once opened so if you decide to dispose , the 100ml is the least expensive

Like other silicon products when dry it is reasonably strong . To remove , just pull the seal off with your fingers.

Any residue can be easily cleaned off with a knife or similar sharp instrument. Small residue can be cleaned off with a wire brush.

Geoff

I hope you are refering to marine seals , not double lip normal seals. Marine seal is the one you fix the rubber part on the stub and a S/S ring on the hub. IF yes that should work until the stub rusts more. I use a S/S sleeve on the stub and normal double lip seal, that will never give you any trouble because the seal spins on S/S shaft. Thats what they use in USA .

By the way the sika is not silicon ( just as well because silicon is corrosive), its polyurethane and that is not corrosive.

Edited July 11, 2010 by wrxhoon1