rockfisherman Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Hi raiders Looking at the possibility of installing electrics on my tinny, I'm think a control panel, the usual lights, a nice floody at the front and maybe maybe a provision for some type of bilge pump for livies. I should be ok to install myself. Is there kits available? What sort of money am I looking at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecura Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Hi mate I install all of my electrics, its not too difficult more time consuming than anything. You think this will take an hour or so and before you know it the whole day is gone. The most expensive parts are the control panels. Make sure you get decent marine grade wiring, anything else will corode and 12 months later you'll be doing it all over again. Plan everything before you start, lay out the lights and switches and cables before you start. I even drew a diagram for myself to make sure everything made sense before I started. Take your time, do it right, do it once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfisherman Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Thanks for the very helpful hints captain rat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooker435 Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 totally agree take your time and only do it once, just remember to add correctly rated fuses between every device you wire up to your system. Regards, Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Hi raiders Looking at the possibility of installing electrics on my tinny, I'm think a control panel, the usual lights, a nice floody at the front and maybe maybe a provision for some type of bilge pump for livies. I should be ok to install myself. Is there kits available? What sort of money am I looking at? Marine shops like Bias & Whitworth have heaps of gear available. It's best to purchase from these types of stores as all the gear is marine quality , especially the cable. Suggest you purchase a control pannel with 5 or 6 switches. You may only need 3 or 4 at this time but a few spares are very handy for future requirements. Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebottle18 Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Ditto to all the above. Also consider running your wiring through clear plastic tubing for that extra protection. Ensure all connections are soldered and sealed. Heat shrink is helpfull. Mark your wires to what they are connected to. Your local auto electrian can be very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike82 Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 If you are unsure about something during your fit-out ask specific questions. Everything from fuse ratings to cable size is important for reliability and safety. I have seen too many occasions where people have used under-rated cables and over rated fuses in the automotive, caravan and marine industry. Usually from the "handy man" although I have seen some cases on new vans and boats from well known manufacturers that leave a lot to be desired. Take your time and do some homework. Work out your current draw for each accessory and also take into account the length of the cable. Over a long length of cable you will suffer a voltage drop, therefore a larger diameter cable is required to compensate. With switch panels you get what you pay for, buy the best your budget will allow. When a wire burns in a harness it very rarely keeps to itself! Good luck, hope all goes well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfisherman Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 C - control panel B - battery 1 - port/starboard lights 2 - flood light 3 - bilge pump for livies 4 - general light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 C - control panel B - battery 1 - port/starboard lights 2 - flood light 3 - bilge pump for livies 4 - general light A few suggestions , In addition to No. 1, a switch would be required for the anchor light You may wish to use this type of switch pannel with the cig lighter fitting & make the flood light a portable fitting. The cig lighter fitting could also be used for a portable internal light. http://www.biasboating.com.au/p-369-switch-panel-5-gang.aspx Provision should be made for a bilge pump. It's a lot easier to flick a switch than bailing water from the back of the boat. As for the cable , suggest Bias cat. No. 583 Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m_a-wright Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 Hi fishingphase, This is how i wired my boat that might give you a few ideas. I have a 4.2m stacer proline angler. I built a false floor between the rear fuel trays and battery trays and fitted a electrical box where i house the fuse box. Each appliance is wired to the switch panel on the side console and fused individually. This way it is very conveinient to add extra appliances as you only have to run extra cables from the appliance/switch panel and fuse box. I ran spare cables when i was fitting out the boat. The electrical box is fitted with a lid and the wires are fed through the side of this to the fuse box to provide an extra level of protection. The whole assembly is connected to a dual battery system. Access to the fuse box is through a hinged lid and is part of the carpeted deck. If you happen to blow a few it is very easy to get to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idolz Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 I ran a thicker positive and negative fused wire to a Buss bar to the console of my boat,,, then every electrical component can be wired back to that through a switch panel.......All lighting on my boat is LED (Nav lights, anchor light, and general lighting (LED strips)to save the battery,, i also have a 10watt solar panel wired into the system through a regulator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfisherman Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 Awesome info, thanks every one, will head to bias boating after work on Saturday with the credit card and buy a few things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfisherman Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 Ok, bought a few things today... Led strip, starboard/port lights, flood lights, adaptable box, switch panel, bilge pump, bus bar and fork lugs. Wasn't sure where I was positioning every thing yet, so havnt bought cable or battery yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunc333 Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 (edited) with those flood lights you bought you may have to install a relay for them ,check what amps they draw ,there might even be a relay in your flood box? Edited July 24, 2011 by dunc333 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfisherman Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 with those flood lights you bought you may have to install a relay for them ,check what amps they draw ,there might even be a relay in your flood box? Theyre 50 watt each, but not sure ill be installing both. No relay in the box just wire and a switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebottle18 Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Think about some heat shrink tube and extra solderer to strenghten the connections and protect from the harsh elements. If possible (just my opinion) cut a piece of ply out to use as a plate at the back where all the wiring is to go. Less holes and you can use bigger screws and reduces the chance of corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfisherman Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 Think about some heat shrink tube and extra solderer to strenghten the connections and protect from the harsh elements. If possible (just my opinion) cut a piece of ply out to use as a plate at the back where all the wiring is to go. Less holes and you can use bigger screws and reduces the chance of corrosion. Cheers mate, ill take both those options on board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike82 Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Consider an auto float switch for the bilge pump. These can be wired for auto and manual operation. If you are not using both the flood lamps consider exchanging them for a L.E.D flood lamp. They are nice and bright, white light, waterproof, draw little current, and aren't too expensive for the life span they will give you. If using both flood lamps you will be drawing around 8.3A. You should use a relay if they are wired on the same circuit together. Just some thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfisherman Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 Consider an auto float switch for the bilge pump. These can be wired for auto and manual operation. If you are not using both the flood lamps consider exchanging them for a L.E.D flood lamp. They are nice and bright, white light, waterproof, draw little current, and aren't too expensive for the life span they will give you. If using both flood lamps you will be drawing around 8.3A. You should use a relay if they are wired on the same circuit together. Just some thoughts. I was considering returning the flood lamps, you pretty much spoke my thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfisherman Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 Ok, traded the halogen floodys for this bad boy Iv got all my gear, just need to work out what I'm going to use to mount it all, iv got a rough idea where. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike82 Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Ok, traded the halogen floodys for this bad boy Iv got all my gear, just need to work out what I'm going to use to mount it all, iv got a rough idea where. I think you will be happy with that one! Good quality unit, less current draw and still bright. Mounting everything can be fiddly and time consuming, but enjoy the challenge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfisherman Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 Hi raiders My install is nearly complete, after spending whatever time I could spare... 2 hours here, an hour there my plans have nearly come to fruition. I'd like to thank all raiders for all their useful information, and I hope to be uploading some photos of the finished product in a couple of weeks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike82 Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 Hi raiders My install is nearly complete, after spending whatever time I could spare... 2 hours here, an hour there my plans have nearly come to fruition. I'd like to thank all raiders for all their useful information, and I hope to be uploading some photos of the finished product in a couple of weeks Look forward to them! Hope it will serve you well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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