Switches/Circuit Breaker Panel for my Brooker 410.

[Paikea]

Hi All

I am fitting various electrical items as part of pimping my Brooker 410. Looked for a suitable switchboard both on this site and the net. I wanted something compact that would be easy to wire up  and troubleshoot in future if needed.

I like rocker switches and a built in or separate fuse panel that is easy to access. As my switches will be mounted on a small panel installed between the gunwale and the top of the rear bench seat I wanted to be able to access the fuses from the front of the panel and not have to search in the back or unscrew the panel from the bracket.

After much searching I lucked on a website that carried details of a combo switch circuit breaker panel that was ideal for my needs. Comes with a comprehensive set of stick on labels and indicating lights on the switches to show when they are on. Never thought of circuit breakers before but they look good and have splash proof boots so all accessible from the front of the panel.

The following pics show self explanatory details plus a rough wiring diagram that I drew up to guide my wiring.

The panel measures 173 Long x 132 High and needs about 100 clear behind for the wiring loops between the switches and the breakers.

I hope that this might be of interest to members who  are thinking of rewiring their boat. I will post pics of the panel when installed.

Cheers

Paikea

 

 

 

 

Edited July 11, 2023 by Paikea
add pics

[zmk1962]

Looks the goods. 
Just FYI, looking at your circuit diagram, I would add a master fuse between the +ve busbar and the battery +ve.  Just to protect everything in case of any short between the busbar and the negative side of the circuit. 
This fuse should be rated to carry the total Amp load of all devices/switches turned on, but less than the Amp capacity of the cables between the busbars and battery terminals. 
cheers Zoran

 

[noelm]

Those looped spade connectors are a potential source of problems if they are not very tight fitting, and protected from any moisture. I have seen dozens of issues related to bad connections on the spade connectors. You can buy paint on stuff that works a treat once all your wiring is completed, it’s a kind of liquid rubber “paint” if the connection is new/clean, then paint it on, you see it on new motors sometimes.

[XD351]

5 minutes ago, noelm said:

Those looped spade connectors are a potential source of problems if they are not very tight fitting, and protected from any moisture. I have seen dozens of issues related to bad connections on the spade connectors. You can buy paint on stuff that works a treat once all your wiring is completed, it’s a kind of liquid rubber “paint” if the connection is new/clean, then paint it on, you see it on new motors sometimes.

It is called liquid electrical tape and you can get it through places like Jaycar or RTM , I can highly recommend it - used it when I first wired my boat 20yrs ago and had zero issues with any connections that were coated with it . If you join any wires , solder then paint this stuff on and let it dry a little and then use heat shrink tubing over that - it forms a water tight seal .

Just re wired my switch panel and every spade connector was cactus and two had broken off - fortunately only the lights on the switch so I didn’t notice .

[noelm]

Yep, I get it from Jaycar, it is great stuff, if everything is nice and new, and done correctly, just paint it on and you’re done.

[XD351]

1 hour ago, zmk1962 said:

Looks the goods. 
Just FYI, looking at your circuit diagram, I would add a master fuse between the +ve busbar and the battery +ve.  Just to protect everything in case of any short between the busbar and the negative side of the circuit. 
This fuse should be rated to carry the total Amp load of all devices/switches turned on, but less than the Amp capacity of the cables between the busbars and battery terminals. 
cheers Zoran

 

Excellent catch Zoran ! that is a real trap for many that don’t have a lot of experience with electrical stuff 
The wiring feeding the whole lot looks like it can handle maybe 30 amp max but the circuit breakers add up to something like 70amps so I would run a 30amp fuse - the weakest link is the wire feeding from the battery , why they have put a 20 amp breaker bewilders me - most cigarette type power sockets are only 10 amp rated and with that drawing max current ,all the lights on and the bilge running you would be hoping to draw maybe  20amps total . If you need more power , set up an Anderson plug using some 8awg cable and a 50amp fuse - big blade fuse  holders , the fuses and the correct lugs and ferrules are available from altronics if you want to go this route .

[Hoods]

Thanks for the heads up Gentlemen, I am about to embark on the same journey. Any advice regarding busbars please

Thanks, Hoods

[noelm]

Depending on what you are doing, bus bars don’t need to be overly complicated, just make sure they are well insulated, covered and suitable for marine use.

[Paikea]

Thank you, gentlemen, for your sound advice. Much appreciated. Sorry about the delay in responding. I have been suffering from the dreaded flu and out of action. Still not 100% but getting there.

I have never used spade fittings before, and wonder should the goo be painted over the rubber boots of the spades or should they be removed before applying the goo? If the latter, that would be a pain to do.

I will fit a 30A fuse in line as suggested using a separate blade fuse wired in using crimp connectors. I normally use heat shrink tube over crimp connectors but should they also be covered in the goo?

I have ordered some bus bars that look to be ideal. Will apply the goo to the crimped screw on connections as well. I may end up covered in it!

Cheers

Paikea