Nolongeramember
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Posts posted by Nolongeramember
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The screw that holds the arm might have come loose and the arm has come away from its position. Might have to take it apart and check the springs and stoppers are all correctly placed and put it back together.
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Yeah I was thinking. If a beginner can learn the leader knots then I don’t see any other real reason to not start out with braid.
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25 minutes ago, the skipper said:
Mate, I have bought two boats from Qld and towed them back into NSW . I had to hand the plates in before I left QLD which then deregistered the trailer so I had to get a permit to tow it back which only lasts a couple of days and you cannot diviate from your trip otherwise you need to get another permit at around $40 a pop.
When you get it back here you then have to get a blue slip for the both boat and trailer before you can register in NSW absolutely ridiculous it is like we live in a different countries as nothing is recognised from one state to another.
I had a road worthy certificate on one of the trailers I bought that was done by the previous owner in QLD which was done the week before I bought it and RMS NSW would not recognise that hence the blue slip which are not cheap.
You also need to register the boat in NSW where you have to take it to licenced inspection person to check all its number etc cost around another $200 plus.
Absolute bullshit this country !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I think all the extra inspections are to stop stolen vehicles being taken to other states.
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If you mean type of line, mono line is best for a beginner. Easy to knot and learn the basics. What are you going to fish for?
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6 hours ago, ryannnnnnn said:
Hey
Ok so on my 4.3m tinny, I have one battery stored at stern that powers the nav lights, sounder and bilge pump. My 40hp 2 stroke yammy outboard is a pull start so it doesn't require any power to start. There's an alternator that charges the battery.
I'm getting a electric motor on the bow and am torn about where to put the secondary battery. My question is - given my outboard doesn't need power to start, can I get away with using a single battery to charge the motor + all the above mentioned electronics? Not sure what my current battery is, it's a few years old now so I'd be happy to replace it with something with lots of juice.
Cheers,
If I was in your situation I would get one large deep cycle battery to power everything rather than muck around with 2 separate batteries.
Im guessing your electric motor would be not bigger than 54lb. I would get a deep cycle battery 140ah minimum. Bigger is even better.
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52 minutes ago, savit said:
Thanks for the information and it’s not your fault but that is confusing. First it says the owner of the property (soil) has the say in the right to fish on the area, then under section 38, the public has a right to fish these areas.
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I want to fish some creeks located in Sydney in a semi rural area that have private property on both sides. Do the land owners, own the creek or am I allowed along the creek if I access it walking from the main road?
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I understand the reason why they SAY to pump the oil from the bottom but what is wrong if you just put in the specified amount from the top? Surely it would all flow down and any air pockets (if there happens to be any) will disappear as soon as the gearbox starts turning.
Obviously, if less than the required amount goes in and the top hole is overflowing then you either wait for it to go down or turn the gears until you can add the whole amount.
What about when you tilt the engine all the way up and then back down again? Same thing.
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On 8/14/2019 at 9:48 PM, SydneyIsSkyBlue said:
Hey guys,
I've just purchased a few Rui squid jigs online after a mate recommended them to me (he swore by them).
Always happy to try new things but to be honest, a bit sceptical at the price point they came in at ($10.99 each) compared to the standard brands I'm normally using (Yamashita, Shimano etc.) - especially in regards to water dynamics. Willing to give them a try though as they have a nice range of colours and look pretty decent. Has anyone had any experience using these and if so, how do they perform?
Thanks,
SSIB!
I have used them quite a bit, mainly because they have some colours that no one else has and I liked them. Have caught plenty of squid on them. Strike rate is no different to expensive jigs.
I have found the spikes to be not very sharp and are very difficult to get them sharp yourself. Still, they catch a heap of squid.
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15 hours ago, pete76 said:
Thanks all, couple of weeks ago when the bite was on in middle harbour I was amongst half a dozen boats catching 1m kingies in 20-25m of water, multiple boats hooked up within meters of each other, nothing would show on my sounder but the downrigger bomb and the bottom, other guys I spoke to were looking at their sounders and marking fish then dropping jigs on them, their screens were lit up with multiple arches/red lines. With so many large kingies amongst us I was very surprised to have my sounder not show anything.
catching Yakkas the bait balls show up very well on my sounder.
Only time I remember marking kingies was at the 12mile in about 110m of water where I saw arches at the bottom, dropped jigs down and caught 2 kings. Perhaps as you said the angle of the cone is the issue? Can this be adjusted?
There is nothing wrong with your sounder. You didn’t see any fish because there were none directly under you. That’s why you can see your bomb at rest but not when travelling slow because it moves back, away from the beam.
The Furuno has a slightly narrow beam angle so you won’t see arches, just a line or “marks” when a fish is under you.
I have the 585 and it’s a brilliant sounder
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Set up ready to reverse and get out and have a look if you think you need to. If while reversing you are not sure where you are at, get out and have another look. Only takes a few seconds.
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45 minutes ago, anthman said:
What are your key signs that you look for when knowing you've got the right depth?
Back down to where the rear of the boat starts to lift off the rollers then come forward so it’s just sitting back on the rear most roller. That’s the spot you want
Like Rick said, you don’t want the rear floating when the boat is fully wound on. You want it sitting on the rear roller with a little weight.
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41 minutes ago, Layton said:
Thanks for the reply’s something to help keep the boat straight when loading it back on the trailer
After many years loading boats, how far (deep) you back into the water determines how easy it is to keep straight and load a boat while either driving or winding on. You need to trial to find the best spot and remember the water height on the trailer.
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Hey Jim. I have had a serious ankle injury and it sure sucks. All the simple things we take for granted like showering, walking, getting a glass of water, cooking going to the shop etc become 10 times as difficult. You really appreciate the "luxury" you have when things go back to normal.
Hope it all heals 100% for you mate.
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I know that when these kind of things happen both parties think they are in the right.
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I have a range of rods Loomis, Shimano, Nitro, St Croix, Penn and Daiwa rods. They ALL have this and I rinse every time.
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Nice looking Bass. The water must be nice up there.
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31 minutes ago, rickmarlin62 said:
My pickup goes thru the pump and pours into the tank that much doing 20 knots I have to close tap to reduce flow
I suppose everyone’s set up is different, but the point is it should be fine to leave the pump on while underway as long as water is getting to it. There is no need to turn it off.
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On 4/17/2019 at 7:01 PM, rickmarlin62 said:
The pickup is supposed to push water thru when underway turn pump off
My pick up pushes water up to the pump but it only trickles out into the bait tank because it has to go through the stationary pump which slows it down. I have to have the pump on to get a proper flow.
There wouldn’t be anything wrong with having the pump on while underway as long as it is being fed water from a pick up.
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From my experience this is somewhat “normal” and unavoidable for a rod.
I think the rusty looking spots are not the actual guide rusting away, but more like metal/ rust residues on the underside of the epoxy. They are separate to the guide metal. You can see that in your picture close up.
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I have used Rule 500 size for years now and they last a long time if you take care of them. Did yours fail for any reason that you know of?
I see them fail a lot when stuff gets caught inside the impeller and the motor burns out. It’s possible that something can get caught temporarily without you knowing, making the motor work extra hard and severely reduce its life. For this reason I recommend fitting the optional metal screen and check and clean it after every trip. Have the pump properly fused and don’t run them dry or when underway unless it’s being fed water so it doesn’t overheat.
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5 years isn’t too bad for one of those. I think the Rules have a 5 year warranty.
It’s better not to run them dry or while underway unless it’s being fed water. I also like to give mine and the bilge pump a quick flush with fresh water while running after every trip. I had a Rule rust and seize once.
Its fine to join into the existing wires as long as the new pump is the same size or smaller. If it is bigger you will probably need thicker wires.
I don’t know your pump location but try to make the wire join in a spot where it won’t ever get submerged in water.
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The 54 would be better but I suppose the 40 will hold position using ipilot with the same difficulty or ease as when you have been doing it manually. So if it’s been satisfactory then it won’t be any different with ipilot.
I done mine a long time ago. When the ipilot kit first came along. 9 years ago or something.
If your planning on wanting more power as well then you should consider whether just getting a whole new unit is a better option rather than upgrading things and still having an ‘old’ unit in the end.
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I remember having the same issue. I couldn’t find anyone that had done it or any confirmation if it would work properly or not, but from what I saw between the 2 versions I figured it should work.
I have a 4.9m runabout. 54lb Minn Kota. I don’t use it offshore but it would be ok if the current and wind are low.
Any bust up observations on Syd harbour
in Fishing Chat
Posted · Edited by Hateanchors
Massive schools of huge kings (over 1m) busting just off Balmoral beach near the wharf every morning last 2 weeks. Approx 1- 3hrs after sunrise. Can’t miss them they are taking metals too.
Edit. Don’t bother unless you are using ultra heavy gear!!