Nolongeramember
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Posts posted by Nolongeramember
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21 hours ago, BuckWild said:
My fishing is predominantly shorebased, and there are some spots where I have to lift my fish up about 1m (I dont carry a net) to bring it in. I've caught a few flatties on 3lb and the times I've lost them was when I've tried to lift them up. The breakage has always occured at the lure end. Same goes for when I'm snagged and need to bust myself off. Just use a few more wraps if you're fishing that light.
Good point. I don’t use the FG, but whatever joining knot you use, you want break offs to always be at the end.
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Nice report Jim. Flaty’s are one of my favourite eating- and catching.
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3 hours ago, BuckWild said:
That is true, but I also believe it is all part of the learning curve. Personally, I just don't think mono cuts it. Casting light jigheads at a reasonable distance with even 2-4lb mono is difficult for a seasoned angler let alone a beginner. You really need to develop a feel for casting lightweights so might as well learn now.
I agree that light mono is not the best for light lures. I hate the stuff myself even though there are plenty of experienced guys that like to use it and pros that have won comps using it. There is plenty to learn when you use mono and I just think it’s a better option for a beginner than 4lb braid.
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41 minutes ago, rickmarlin62 said:
Im not pointing fingers im just sik or reading same shit bout pros n cons for both the guy just wants to buy a boat not buy into a debate about whivh motor is better based on people wjo luv wot they own i didnt recomend an old school 2st but thats wot i have and im vrry happy with it im just sik of resding same arguments every time this comes up there is no right no wrong and neither is better unless it suits your needs....
If you are sick of reading “same shit pros and cons of both” then you should tell the original guy not to ask such a question, and ask to ban all these types of questions just for you. Not blame the responders.
There are lots of topics on here that don’t interest me. Guess what I do? I don’t read them.
I believe both engines have their places that’s why we are trying to discuss their positives and negatives. Everyone has their own view.
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25 minutes ago, rickmarlin62 said:
Just a comment but if my 90 yammie blew up and i was goin to spend my hard earned i wouldnt buy an etec or a 4st i would buy another 90 2st yammie cause i want the reliability an performance i have now this two horse race between etec lovers an 4st lovers is gettin a bit old hat an im sick of hearin bout it no1 buy wot u can afford and buy to suit wot u r goin to do most this has all been covered in this topic and others it doesnt matter wot 15 biased outboard owners on this site say it boils down to your choice of wot will suit the best i hope you are happy with your purchase which ever way you go and may you never break down on the water...to the rest of the chidish biased one eyed commentors i hope you never break down on the water either...this guy wanted some advice not a massive debate ...may your boating be a much more enjoyable time than this topic....rant done.....rick
wots rong wif wee hav a civil debate about sumfing?
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35 minutes ago, BuckWild said:
When I first started out, I made the mistake of going cheap. Once I got the hang of fishing with lures, I ended up significantly upgrading my gear and the original combo is just gathering dust and rust in the garage. If you're willing to wait a little bit longer, I suggest saving up for $300-$400 for rod/reel and getting yourself mid-level gear rather than entry level. You should be able to find some nice rods from $100 - $150 (such as the Shimano Raiders or Daiwa Generation Blacks) and the left over can be spent on mid level reels such as your Shimano Ultegras/Stradics etc . You'll end up saving money in the long run as you won't be continuously upgrading your gear. My go to reel at the moment is still the original Daiwa Certate from 2004 and I recently just bought a Raider from Dinga for $105. If you're willing to shop overseas, you can also buy some nice rods for <$100. I bought a MajorCraft BassPara rod for ~$80 a couple of years ago and I think you can still buy them.
This is the reason I suggested at the beginning the guy can use what he had to start with, just switch to light mono. The original question wasn’t what is the best line, rod and reel for soft plastics. (Like some answers) It was if what he had could be used.
Recommending 4lb braid to a beginner is always going to end in disaster IMO. The stuff breaks after the slightest touch of abrasion. (usually later on a snag or fish) Knots and wind knots are also an issue for beginners with line so thin.
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On 8/4/2018 at 12:04 PM, Rebel said:
I have been told by several people the their after sales and warranty service is terrible. Is this true ?
I like their gear but yes, in my experience (a lot) it’s true. Terrible after sales and warranty service. This has encouraged me to purchase their products OS.
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1 hour ago, GoingFishing said:
Again.......u need to read into the oil consumption of the new etecs particularly the g2 lol stop thinking about the old 30 yr old 2 stroke tech that guzzled oil.....new 2 strokes burn less fuel and therefore consume less oil.
I’m not thinking about 30yr old 2 strokes, I’m talking about etecs. Fuel consumption is about even between etecs and 4’s. It’s just that you have to add an extra litre of 2 stroke oil in the etec for every 50 litres of fuel used.
Yes four strokes need oil changes once a year but it’s still a lot less oil used compared to etec.
2 hours ago, rickmarlin62 said:One comment early on was 4st are as light as 2s thats bunk show me a 4 thats not 10/15% heavier i repowered from 60 to 90 in a 2st yammie and gained 12 kilo if i went 4st i would have gained 35 kilo check how the hull you are considering sits in the water with both options...rick
You are comparing old tech 2’s weights to four stroke. Etecs are heavier than old tech 2’s and are about the same weights as fours generally.
Even so, I had an old 60 yammie 2st and upgraded to a 60 Suzuki 4st. The Suzuki is 2kilo lighter.
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59 minutes ago, GoingFishing said:
Re oil consumption....the new etecs leave most of the modern 4 strokes for dead in terms of consumption..yes the engine oil is a little dearer than other brands but when im paying for fuel, tackle, bait, etc every week......to make an issue of the extra $20 bucks (ontop of say another good marine oil) when i buy oil every 6 months is honestly quite laughable and not even worth mentioning.
Hey mate. I don’t know how you can say that Etecs leave most modern four strokes for dead in oil consumption? Can you elaborate on that?
2 strokes use ALOT more oil than a four. This is a fact. And the oil they say to use is expensive. To say it’s only $20 extra every 6 months is not right for the average user. Btw not knocking Etec, they have their place just don’t like seeing misleading information.
Imagine the oil charter operators and water police would go through, running their engines all day everyday if they were using etecs. That might be one reason they run 4 strokes.
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We must have been due for this question again haha.
These are the main factors I see. Four strokes are a bit quieter out of the pipe to me than an Etec so the noise it puts into the water is quieter. For fishing/ trolling duties this is important to me. When I have a choice why would I pick the louder one?
Next, oil. Etec engines have to mix oil with its fuel. Four stroke does not. Etec goes through WAY more oil than a 4 stroke, and the good 2 stroke oil they recommend is expensive.
What etecs have that is better than a 4 is it’s stronger power delivery. If I was more into sport boating, wanting to accelerate real hard, tow people etc I would choose Etec no question. For fishing duties I think four stroke is better.
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Only good forums survive that long ?
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On 7/31/2018 at 2:38 PM, fragmeister said:
I am not sure what all the noise is under the fish at the right of the screen... is this noise or is it bait?
I did, in fact, catch salmon and a few small kings over this spot but were they stray fish... I don't know for sure.
I would appreciate any comments
Hi Jim.
First of all turn off those fish symbols. They don’t help and just get in the way of the real picture.
The mass on the right is a school of bait sized fish. From 6 to 10m. The dots underneath the mass are the same fish of the school less tightly packed, so they show as individual fish. There are no bigger fish at the top like the symbols show. That’s why, get rid of the symbols
You can never tell for sure as fish can be on the edge of the beam, but all the masses and small dots are small bait fish. Larger fish like Salmon and kings show up more like a line like at the bottom middle of the picture.
Looking at that screen, you would have been moving rather than still. That’s the best way to get a good picture of things. If you were still, all the marks would show up as long lines because the same fish would keep repeating over and over.
Also, colour shows the bottom composition but also I find that rock bottom shows as bumpy like on your picture. Sand or soft bottom tends to show up as more flat.
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16 minutes ago, shane1234 said:
The combo that I have comes with 15lb line, will that work?
Braid or mono? Anything will work, but I think you should get something lighter. 8-10lb.
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I’m thinking you are kind of just starting out so I suggested mono to start with. You can use either. Braid is better as long as you have some experience and know your knots.
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2 hours ago, shane1234 said:
Hi Everyone
What is the max size reel you would you use for fishing with SP's? I have a Jarvis Walker MaxiSpin 4000 Rod and Reel Combo and I was wondering if that was good enough to use.
My preferred alround light plastics reel is a 2500. What you have is a little larger and heavier than ideal for throwing around flathead and bream plastics, but your question is, is it good enough to use and I say yes for sure. If it’s all you have it’s fine.
What is important is the line size. Your casting and catch rate will suffer if your line size is too large. I would recommend 8-10lb mono as a starting point.
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Definitely early morning would be the best time from my experience. I mean from first light. Once the sun comes up higher things go quiet.
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I don’t know about night. I’ve only seen it firing at day time lately
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I’ve found some action at Cobblers Beach.
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3 hours ago, flatheadluke said:
You didn’t use an example involving a cup of salt, cold water, warm water and solubility?
No he didn’t. What is your point?
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4 hours ago, rickmarlin62 said:
do you change the water in the drum if not it will retain salt defeats purpose
I think we have been over this before.
The hose is constantly on in the drum and water overflowing. Water outputs from the engine don’t go back in the drum except for the exhaust outlet
Even if all the water in the drum was recirculating I’d be happy the engine is clean enough. It’s kind of like saying washing the salt off a fishing reel in a bucket of water defeats the purpose.
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3 hours ago, jeffb5.8 said:
So how long do you run your motor when flushing?
Do you flush on idle or do you do a higher Rpm than Idle?
i usually run it for about 5 mins on idle (650rpm) using the ear muffs.
60HP4. I flush in a drum for a few minutes after the telltale is warm. About 10- 15mins all up. I put revs up to just under the out of gear limiter which is about 2000 from memory. This gets the thermostat to open as much as possible as it needs more water flow to keep the engine cool. I suspect at idle there would be very little flow through the thermostat.
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23 hours ago, Xi803 said:
Thank you everyone for their advice.
Been reading through the comments and I've decided to up the budget and get a new 460 Renegade SC and 60 or 70 Yammie
So off to the boat show in 2 weeks and try to make a deal.
Thanks again for the advice.
For what you described at the beginning, I would recommend something a bit bigger than a 4.6m. I would stick with pressed alloy but get 5m minimum.
Also, just my preference but in boats under 5m I feel safer with a cab or runabout style when going outside. Less chance of waves swamping over the front in big seas. Plus you have protection from spray and wind.
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Fab, don't forget to factor the extra width of a bigger boat. From what I remember of your past photos, it's tight in your garage.
Trailer repair
in The Workshop
Posted
It always satisfying to DIY and I love metal work jobs.
You have done a great job there and added more life to the trailer. Btw your vertical weld looks better than the horizontal.