Nolongeramember
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Posts posted by Nolongeramember
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7 hours ago, GoingFishing said:
Trying to tie 60 pound braid onto 130lb mono leader with no swivel. Essentially i want to run 20m of 130lb leader straight onto the braid mainline.
Ps. Intended to be fishing for beakies
I use similar lines for big kings but use heavier braid.
If it was me I would tie a Bimini twist then tie an improved version of an Albright with the double.
Everyone has their own opinions and tying styles. I wouldn’t take that table as gospel. You can bet every magazine and person would have their own unique table list order.
My advice, take the time to properly test knots for yourself and use what works for you. When you see results, you will be glad you took the time to do it.
Sometimes you only get one chance at a fish. I have proven to myself many times that time testing knots at home equals more trophy fish on the water.
Anyone that says they have never had a failure on ANY knot are kidding themselves. It happens to the best.
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47 minutes ago, savit said:
@Volitan, Have a look at Paulusjustfishing website. A lot of line testing including knots:
https://web.archive.org/web/20160307173149/http://paulusjustfishing.com/4knotstested.htm
If Paulus does not explain somewhere on his website how he is testing breaking strain (equipment/technique etc) - just contact him.
He uses specialised equipment which you need for accurate line testing.
For testing knots though, a spring puller is good enough. You mostly want to compare knots to each other so super accurate figures are not needed.
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1 hour ago, Volitan said:
Glad someone agrees.
engineering 101 : ‘you can’t improve a process till you learn to measure it’.
leader selection and knot tying are a process.
The Shimano balance is interesting. Im now thinking I may use that as the core of the system, the rest just being just several levers to make things more ergonomic and allow finer measurements. I notice the blue Shimano spring scale is sold in science supply places for use in high school science, so it must have reasonable accuracy.
It’s accurate enough for knot testing duties. You can adjust it as well. I put a known weight on like a 10kg dumbbell and adjust so it reads 10kg.
The main thing is you can compare results with it rather than worry about how accurate the numbers are your getting.
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17 minutes ago, Volitan said:
I think I’ve already done that.
but knots still break. I’m sure you have both had knots break or leaders fail at least a few times in your fishing careers. And when it happens you’re left wondering did I tie a bad knot, was the leader faulty, or was it simply beyond it’s design strength and something had to give?
look, I know not everyone appreciates my meticulous approach, but with lighter lines required as fishing pressure increases there will always be a boundary where leader strength is at the minimum. This is especially true for us who rarely have the opportunity to get away to less fished places.
im sure I’m not the only person who prefers not to proceed by seat of the pants approach, so I’m interested to hear from others who have gone down this route.
If you want to properly test and improve your line and knots you need a reliable way to test them. I use a Shimano spring scale that has a marker to show where the result was.
Nothing wrong with testing knots mate. I reckon I use some of the strongest and reliable knots going (most with my own modifications to them) because I have tested and proved them over and over and compared the results to other knots.
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Hey that’s awesome. Was a good read as well.
I am sure if you keep trying we will see pictures up here of you and one of these beasts very soon.
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48 minutes ago, Tinkicka said:
If you read the article, it states that the female part of the ferrule is the section that wears and allows the male part to sit further into it. If you remove part of the male ferrule so that the two wrap bands sit flush (so that the raw section of the CF rod is removed) then any wear in the female ferrule, through normal use as stated in the article, can only result in a loose fit because the male part cannot move further into the female ferrule because of the restriction caused by the wrap band.
If you measure the dimensions of the male ferrule, they will show a very slight taper, with the thin section at the end. It has been designed and manufactured that way to allow for normal wear and tear. I had extensive communication with two manufacturers when I first came across this when building rods. They provided the link to the article.
Tinkicka
Ok Sorry. I just seen the picture on my desktop. Its not as bad as I thought. If it was mine I would sand a little to maybe close up the gap to half of what it is for a better fit.
Obviously, never take off so much as to let it go all the way until it hits the outside of top section.
Anyway, from my experience I've never seen these joins get looser from 'wear and tear'. Only tighter.
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2 hours ago, Tinkicka said:
Hi,
normal process for quite a few rod manufacturers now.
https://tforods.ca/blogs/news/blank-over-ferrule-technology
I build quite a few rods, mainly fly rods and this is common.
Be careful if you remove anything from the 'male' end as with wear and tear in normal use, you will end up with a loose joint and then the problems really begin.
Tinkicka
What about rods that fit properly from new? Are you saying they will get loose with use?
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34 minutes ago, Constant said:
This is MajorCraft Solpara SPS832EL EGI. I think it is saying Carbon Blank so not sure whether graphite. I have a few rods and none look like this. So just make me worry it will fall when casting.
It shouldn’t come out if it is pushed in snug, only you won’t have the full intended strength of the join if you leave it like that.
I’m no rod expert but I have had a few like this. First I would give both ends a very good clean. Have a look inside the female end with a light to make sure there is nothing obvious that is stopping it going in further.
If it still won’t go in all the way then get some fine sandpaper and take a smidgen (micro) off the male end until it goes in all the way. Work VERY slow and keep checking the fit. It’s an easy, simple process really.
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On 9/21/2018 at 9:14 PM, mii11x said:
Just checked my email and Luke from aussie batteries responded with this regarding the Giant brand agm deep cycle 130ah. Look like i will give it a miss.
Hi Michael,
Unfortunately, we do not recommend our deep cycle battery and will not warranty our batteries if they are used on an electric motor. I would recommend contacting the manufacture or local distributor of your electric motor and asking them on the brand that they would recommend.
Regards,
Luke Swan
12v Sales - Aussie Batteries & Solar
Freecall: 1800 853 315 Phone: 07 5443 2955Ive replied to him just now to seek further clarification since their website states it is suitable, furthermore, there is an entire page devoted to selecting a deep cycle battery for trolling motors.
Ive also emailed supercharge regarding their amptech range and will await a response.
I will keep updating this post with my results
What was his reply?
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17 hours ago, fishii said:
Hi All
Need some info on how to reduce wind knots . I started spinning recently and keep getting wind knots quite often . I have a saragosa 6000 with 30lb tasline on a SHIMANO JEWEL 962 8-15KG SPIN ROD . Initially I believed the knots were caused cause the fluro was 60lb . I moved this down to 40lb and noticed some improvement . Any assistance would be appreciated
Thanks
Hi. I can give you some tips from my experiences. Wind knots are mostly caused by the line not being sufficiently slowed down and controlled by the spool lip when casting. It needs to slow down just that little bit. Can you put up a close picture of the line on your spool.
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On 1/3/2019 at 8:59 PM, Poly2096 said:
thanks for the reply Zoran. We have a 4.5m polycraft, 50hp motor. We will be fishing mostly in pittwater so have time but that said we do fish close to the points and when the wind is whipping across the bay we could end up on rocks pretty quickly. Ultimately in pittwater we can just throw the anchor down and work on getting the motor started after that. thanks for the link to the other chat. i hadnt seen that one despite searching quite a bit
I would just get a jump starter as a back up. I have a 60HP and only run one 100ah battery. It powers all my electrics (bait tank, sounder, bilge etc)
What I think is important is to not neglect things just because you have a back up. Make sure everything is in good working order.
Check and monitor voltages. You should be able to bring this up on your sounder. Make sure engine is charging the battery by confirming 14v when running. Keep battery in good order and replace when sluggish or old. Don’t wait until it lets you down. Check and charge if necessary, before every trip. If starter motor or something is not 100% get it fixed. Don’t wait until you are stranded to do something about it.
Use common sense. If the engine has not been run for a long time, don’t run your sounder and bait tank constantly for hours and hours.
Almost all break downs can be avoided.
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Hey man, that’s a nice report and a fun few days of fishing. Thanks for sharing.
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5 minutes ago, jedpayten said:
any way to avoid it?
Don’t get salt water on it. Rinse rods after use.
The pictured rust isn’t that bad. I’ve used rods that look like that for years. I say just use it and enjoy it for however long it lasts. Nothing last forever.
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2 hours ago, Basswhisperer said:
I was out on the bay most of last week & saw plenty of kings caught but unfortanetly did not see any fish returned to the water except the ones I caught which were all under size. Hopefully we see a crackdown on this it would be easy enough to police as everyone fish’s in the one spot all simply wait for people at the boat ramp. If these small fish can survive the meatos this fishery will be great in a few years when there bigger.
I would love to see a crackdown on this but I don’t think you can come back to the same area at the same time of year in say 5 years time, and those same school of (bigger) Kings will be there.
Every year the same size, small Kings turn up to these kinds of spots. From what I’ve seen every year, I think when they grow bigger they move on to other places and a new batch of small ones take their place.
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That’s a great result mate. Thanks for the video. What kind of baits do you recommend?
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1 hour ago, pugzthugz said:
Update: I fixed it. Part 117 has 2 little bits of metal that
hold it in place with a similar looking gold plate. These were bent out of place. I just made them straight again with pliers which allowed the line spool to sit deeper into the reel. This prevented friction from the spool moving my drag, so now the reel is fixed. Thanks for the help Hateanchors and Rickmarlin.
Cheers -pugz
I see. So because that disc was sticking up, it made the spool sit a little higher than it should?
Sounds like those discs were not put together carefully enough causing that bit to bend.
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Check the outside of the drag knob is not tight for some season against the inside of the spool. Maybe an incorrectly installed drag knob rubber or something.
Watch the drag knob closely when you pull line off and see if you can spot something that is making it turn.
Take the knob off and check the top drag disk doesn’t turn with the spool. That will quickly determine if that is the cause.
See how you go.
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On 12/5/2018 at 1:48 PM, brett davis said:
Hit the channel markers at botany this morning at first light , 5 lb of squid and big expectations, well 4 hours of rats 55 to 63 cm ,
71 fish boated . The fun wore off after the first dozen,but keeped tell myself there has got to be a couple of good ones in between them ,
Off the water by 9.30 empty bait box and empty fish bin ,on a positive note ,it would be a great time to get the young ones out there or the novice fisher person they would have a ball and be hooked for life .
off to ice the shoulder,only rats but they took their toll on the rod arm lol
71 kings boated on bait your saying? From sunrise to before 9.30am when you left the water. Is this one person fishing or 10 people combined?
You are a Super fisher
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3 hours ago, Fishop said:
Is this what the anodes look like after a year or is there a fair chance they havnt been checked in a while?
Also, For those guys that do their own yearly servicing do you change your plugs and fuel filters every year or just if they look dirty?
I check and clean my Suzuki internal anodes every 6 months. The more often you clean them the better. They build up with “junk” very quickly and need to be cleaned often to do their job properly.
I change plugs according to the manual and also how I feel about how much use I’ve done and how the engine is starting/ running.
I clean filters if they can be every year. I generally replace every few years. I do always check them often though.
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20 minutes ago, Fab1 said:
Yeah,it is.If i repair it ill put new bonnet,door skins and guards.Then its a matter of taping out the dents on roof and quarter panels.
Not looking fwd to it to be honest but will see.
Geez mate, that IS a lot of work. Are you sure it’s worth doing all that? What car is it?
I haven’t tried hail damage but Ive used the dent removal guys on small dents and they are brilliant. As long as they can access the dent from the inside, it isnt really big and the metal is not stretched, they bring it back to normal.
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3 hours ago, GoingFishing said:
The world is full of inconsiderate people derek.
One thing that to this day happens to me quite regularly blows my mind.
Id be fishing a good 3km offshore with thousands of meters of space around me, sometimes the only boat for a good km or so...then a passing boat will go by and come within 20m at full throttle...WTF..???
I usually let it go but one time i packed up the sea anchor and chased that bastard down and gave him a good ear bashing.
Haha. Funny you chased him down and gave him a serve.
This sort of thing happens everywhere. I don’t get it either. Stupid people, no consideration.
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19 minutes ago, Yowie said:
I tried fluorocarbon once, and found that it broke or frayed at less than the stated line strength, so have not used it since. Keep using my straight through mono.
If you are fishing at night, you can increase the line strength, as it won't make much difference to the bites, but will give you added line strength.
A longer rod may give you more advantage in keeping fish out from structure, but in close situations around pylons, it will not be too much more of an advantage.
If I use a leader, which I do in some situations, I use Toughened Monofilament. It will give you a bit more abrasion resistance.
You must have come across something that was not quite right. Fluoro should perform better than “everyday” mono in my experience.
Don’t use cheap stuff. Get quality and you will find it out performs mono.
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5 hours ago, mrsswordfisherman said:
“it is still an offence to create waves that cause danger, inconvenience or damage.”
Inconvenience? That would mean every moving boat is committing an offence. What boat makes waves that are convenient?
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In that situation fishing so close to the structure, I would use normal hooks and the instant you strike and pin the fish start pulling/ winding to get the fish away from danger. Don’t wait until the fish starts pulling or flapping around before you do anything.
your opinion on quality 4,6,8 pound monofilament.
in Tackle Talk
Posted · Edited by Hateanchors
Typo
I like Schneider line.
Also, for sizing of mono lines, use the number on the packet as a guide only. The thickness is a more reliable measure of strength generally. So if 2 lines say 10lb, the thicker one will more than likely be stronger.