Nolongeramember
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Posts posted by Nolongeramember
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17 hours ago, Fab1 said:
Lol.When it gets stolen and the insurance knocks back his claim he can say you said to not worry and everything will be ok.
Lol. It’s not going to be knocked back if he doesn’t have the approved locks. He just had to pay $1000 theft excess if it happens to be stolen.
So what I suggested was that if he thinks his own security is adequate (as he said) then I wouldn’t worry about the excess as chances are it won’t get stolen.
This is the same way the insurance company looks at it. If he has proper security then chances are it won’t get stolen and we make more money.
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Still, you put in years of trial, error and research to find your place to fish and then some bloke advertises it, then suddenly all your time and hard work is wrecked because your all crowded over by noobies.
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People are wrecking it for themselves.
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I don’t really see the point of spraying everything under the cowling with Lanox or whatever. What does this achieve apart from making the whole thing slippery and oily? It’s not going to prevent issues like what is in this topic about a broken starter solinoid or TPS.
My engine is 8 or so years old and still looks new under there without ever been sprayed.
There are linkages, sliding parts and pivot points that need to have grease on them, so spraying any of these areas will wash all that lubrication off.
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14 hours ago, mii11x said:
Hi guys,
Almost time to renew my policy and noticed this clause - 18.6 theft excess.
While my boat is always stored at home in a lockable garage, behind two other vehicles at night, there is the occasion I do go holidaying with it. Whenever im towing it it always is padlocked on the trailer coupling, so too when I holiday - I also chain and padlock to the cabin, but these are not accepted "anti-theft" devices as outlined in clause 18.6.
So my question is, what anti-theft devices are you guys using or recommend? I dont fancy those complete wheel devices really, but it may mean the difference between a $1000 excess or not. Are there any other alternatives?
Cheers
Mick
This is how I look at. Don’t worry about if the insurance company accepts your security devices as not adequate. If you genuinely think your own security devices are enough then don’t worry about the extra theft excess as chances are it won’t get stolen right?
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7 hours ago, nutsaboutfishing said:
Hey GH,
I don't doubt what you say, but I'm wondering for example with Vanish leader how can 3/100 of a mm make a difference
It’s a tiny difference in diameter and it makes a tiny difference to catch rates long term. Refer to my earlier post.
From your earlier comparison, for me the difference between 6lb and 10lb is enough to make a “noticeable” difference. Try fishing for Yakkas with 10lb in Sydney side by side to someone fishing 6lb or 4lb to get an idea.
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4 hours ago, nutsaboutfishing said:
I agree, so if the 1/20th make no real difference why would would you ever use an 6lb leader instead of a 10lb?
It does make a difference because there is a difference. You may very well catch the same fish on the heavier line sometimes, but it’s about the probability of catching a fish. It’s more probable that a fish will take a lighter line over a heavier one. If the difference is minute then the probability difference is minute. In the long run it adds up just like all odds do
So if you want the best possible chance then you use the thinnest line. It’s a classic fishermen’s decision.
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I like to spread the male ends a little bit for better connection. (Don’t go too far or they will snap)
I don’t get any build up to worry about really. I just spray in there whatever I have handy at the time. Usually Lanox.
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I use 91 non ethanol. My outboard does not need anything higher and I don’t see anything worthwhile to gain from paying more for higher octane. If 91 is not available I’ll use 95 as second choice.
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9 hours ago, Fishop said:
I use caltex as its the closest one in town and I get woolies rewards points and a 4c discount...lol. But the caltex website says the 95 has "cleaning agents" in it to help with crud buildup in the engine. Which the 91 does not. So thats another reason why I use 95 its only 8c/L or so more expensive.
Personally I don’t believe any of that marketing. If you can use 91 then I wouldn’t pay extra for 95.
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4 hours ago, big Neil said:
So is the advice which I've been given correct? DO NOT USE E 10 in outboards. Okay to use 95 or even 98 instead of unleaded 91 (just costs more). RSVP, bn
Use what the engine manufacturer recommends. If they say E10 is OK then use it if you want. I always stay away from it personally.
Yes it’s ok to use 95 or 98 instead of 91. No harm done at all, but if all you need is 91 you are wasting your money.
Some people say they get better mileage with the higher octane but that’s for you to test and decide if it’s worth it.
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3 hours ago, Fab1 said:
Engines need higher compression for higher combustion pressures/tempretures to make use of higher octane fuels.That's why cars with turbos,superchargers etc run high octane fuels as they have the above mentioned to adequately ignite the fuel in these conditions.
If you run higher octane fuel in a car/outboard designed to run on a lesser octane fuel your doing more harm than good and throwing money away.
Cheers.
It’s actually the other way around. The turbo and high compression engines need higher octane fuel for a controlled burn and to not detonate. (Super high pressures and engine damage) They don’t need it to adequately “ignite” the fuel.
It’s not like other engines won’t ignite the high octane fuel as you say. They will. But higher octane fuel burns in a more “controlled” manner. It is less prone to detonate and damage the engine and can handle high pressure better.
Many people think that higher octane means more explosive. It’s not! It just burns in the engine in a more controlled manner, thus avoiding/ less chance of detonation/ damage. If your engine needs it, use it. If it doesn’t then don’t. Simple.
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7 hours ago, Berleyguts said:
Last time I went to go fishing (after a long dry spell of nobtrips), I got to the ramp, only to find the battery flat and the motor wouldn’t start. I fitted a new battery and it kicked over OK. That was a few weeks ago. Now, it finally looks like I’m going to be able to get out tomorrow, so I loaded the gear in the boat and decided to crank it over, to be sure. Nothing! I can’t understand it! It’s alway started first time, even if sitting in the boatport for a few months! The only thing I can think of is that this happened (with the old battery), only after I had an accessories charger and USB port fitted. Could the boat dealer have fitted this to be live all the time, instead of being activated by the accessories switch (at bottom of cluster)? The blue light seems to be on at all positions of the switch. No, I didn’t isolate the starter battery at the back of the boat - I never had to before. Do you think that could be it?
I’ve got the starter battery sitting on the CTek now (I usually leave it on the deep cycle battery for the Minn Kota). I hope I get enough charge to start, or it looks like I’m not going fishing again! ? If I get it started, I’m concerned it won’t hold charge at sea.
When charging it on the CTek, should I isolate the battery or leave it on?
Thoughts?
I think it’s pretty stupid of someone to fit those accessory plugs for you that 1, draw power when not in use. And 2, not tell you it does so.
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6 hours ago, Marmot said:
I bought some squid lures from China and tried last week, and hooked a big one, but it got away and left me a tentacle--the tiny tentacle could not hold its weight.
Bringing back just a tentical means too much pressure. When I hook a squid I immediately unwind the drag to almost nothing. If I feel the squid lunge or pull I lean and put the rod into its direction to almost eliminate any extra pressure. Go with it. Don’t try to “fight” it. When winding in it’s always very gentle. The main theme is gentle, and dont rush.
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I only have
5 hours ago, NBFisho said:Indeed it is. And it will get me from North harbour, to north head, to Middle head and back to north harbour marina . Just need to work out motor size and battery size.
I have a 54lb and 100Ah battery on a 4.8 tinny so can only go by what I have seen from this. If you want to travel that far with a kayak on the motor alone, I would recommend 54lb and probably 200Ah battery plus. Then again, it may be a little unrealistic to travel that far entirely on a small electric motor unless you have multiple or a huge battery. Maybe someone has more experience with kayaks.
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Hi Mark. Depends how much you want to use it, how long you want it to last and if weight is a factor. I take it, it’s going in a kayak?
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Araldite and silicone won’t stick too good on that kind of plastic. I would recommend a drop of super glue on each side of the dividers.
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22 minutes ago, kingfishbig said:
That's far fetched. They usually try to get around displaced fishing effort by using buy out of pros, bag limits, closed seasons etc, ie traditional fisheries management. In that scenario it is quite possible that it is really fisheries management that is boosting fish stocks and not the marine park. This is probably the case for the GBR marine park.
The fisheries managent helps for sure, but it can only do so much. With more and more people going out fishing (which is what is continually happening) there has to be a point where they say enough is enough.
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If the population is always increasing then that means the amount of people out fishing are forever increasing. The fishing waters are not getting any bigger to suit, so what do you expect will eventually happen? Less fish and more fishing pressure. Something has to be done right?
The lock outs might help the immediate area but they will put more fishing pressure on the remaining areas so will lead to more lock outs until eventually everything is closed. Inevitable in my eyes, but I wonder, when (if) the stocks or whatever they are trying to preserve recover will the area be reopened?
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3 hours ago, raging said:
It’s also a slippery slope, even if your spots aren’t effected this time around, it may be next time.
So true! You might not care too much now, but these are the stepping stones to locking out everything.
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4 hours ago, eastwood1980 said:
What you guys reckon about the whole marine park lock out?
I said it a few years ago on here. There will eventually be no fishing at all allowed in Sydney and these are the steps in getting to there. Other areas will follow.
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55 minutes ago, Fab1 said:
I wanted to go out this weekend but it didn't eventuate so decided on my usual plan B to maintain my gorgeous 120kg figure.
Plan B looks pretty good to me.
Internet ruins the fishery
in Fishing Reports
Posted
I agree, I love sharing my information on here and helping out others to catch a fish. But pointing out specific spots at specific times to all, I don’t agree with.