Nolongeramember
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Posts posted by Nolongeramember
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As I said earlier yting, Shimano reels have had this issue for a very long time. Even old model Stella’s like mine.
The problem is because they use 2 pieces for the bail arm which then have to have a join. Because the metal is so thin, this join is prone to having exposed sharp edges. Some come from the factory with a some what ok join and some not so good. Better reels have a full one piece bail arm and no join.
These parts are pressed together and the only fix I know of is putting something over the top. Super glue won’t do much good. Epoxy or what I used stuff called JB Weld.
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1 hour ago, zmk1962 said:
That guide in not right. The lean one is on the right and optimal is on the left. Also, plugs are just a guide IMO. There are many instances where plug colour doesn’t tell the full story.
Andy, the engine in the video sounds to me exactly the same the whole time.
It looks like it’s running at low revs and roughish, which is normal for an old school 2 stroke. It should run smooth and clear once you increase revs. If it doesn’t there is an issue.
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I think I know what you are talking about. It’s where the bail wire meets the roller. Shimano reels have had this problem for years and you probably got one of the worse ones.
Newer and the higher priced reels have a one piece design, eliminating the join.
I would take it back for sure and explain the problem and demand a refund or fix. If it’s sharp and cutting the line then it should be clear to see the fault and there is nothing for them to argue about.
I have an old Stella with a similar 2 piece design. I never had the line get caught there but just to be sure I mixed up some 2 part epoxy type metal and stuck a small amount around the join. Its been good for years of use. I can get a picture if your interested.
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11 hours ago, frankS said:
I believe a longer drag link will increase the amount of lock, especially one that you can adjust to optimal length to suit. We will just have to wait to see the end result.
Frank
Ok I’ll leave you guys oto solve this problem 😣 I’m off this one.
I still think he has an issue somewhere else and this bracket changing is creating other issues and covering up the original problem.
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6 hours ago, AP3 said:
Hi Frank,
Well that level of generosity is something I've never come across over here, so how could I turn you down!
Ok, I swapped the bracket over to the otherside.
This is it before:
This is it after:
Anyway, you can see the reduced lock in both directions in the second video. If my physics are right (just shoot me now), then a longer drag link should remedy this.
This has softened the steering but now there is a new problem.
I’m no expert but to me the reduced lock is there to stay if you leave the bracket in the forward position. Changing the drag link to the correct length wont give you more lock, it will just even each side.
Looking at the second video, I would not be satisfied with that amount of lock to lock that you now have.
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Definitely try changing the treble to a single. Make sure it’s not too small either. You want it significantly bigger than one of the hooks on the treble.
I use a single for metals on tailor and the hook ups per strike I reckon are the same but the landing rate and ease of hook removal are definitely better.
I think the reason they stay pinned better is because a treble has 3 small hooks which only grab a small amount each, a lot of the time with only one. A single has one large hook that grabs a much bigger chunk when it goes in.
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As I read it, the only thing he has changed is the cable and the rotory helm. It was smooth before this.
A few other ideas to check. Andy, check the end of the steering cable where it goes in and out of the motor tube is not rubbing against the inside of the motor tube or something else when it’s connected.
Check the new rotory helm and new cable are compatible with their gears or however they interact with each other.
Is it still stiff when everything is connected and you try to turn the steering by pulling the motor?
Is there any kind of tension or pressure on the cable end when connecting up the drag link?
Disconnect things one by one until you find the culprit. The helm rotor, lay the cable straight across the boat and try and turn the motor etc.
My guess is still one of the new parts has a fault with it.
Edit, check the drag link/ cable end connection is not binding.
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1 hour ago, frankS said:
Andy. I believe if you turn that bracket around the other way like in Zoran's drawing your troubles will be rectified. Never seen that bracket facing inward on any boat motor I have even owned OR seen , and I have seen a few.
Noel shaft length is OK.
Frank
I agree it will make the steering easier due to the extra leverage, but one thing that might be an issue is the throw of the arm will be increased to turn the motor. He might not have full lock side to side in the other hole.
Also, it doesn’t explain why the steering was totally fine with the current setup and the original cable. There must be something else going on.
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5 hours ago, JimC said:
I fish St Georges Basin in water 5-9m deep. What puzzles me about my sounder picture is this. If my boat is moving forwards and my sounder is showing the bottom, how do you relate the boat speed to trace speed?Surely the boat is nowhere anything showing on the screen because the trace speed is not matching the boat speed. thought. What speed do sounders run at. Mine is a Lowrance elite4 chirp. JIM
This is a good question. Just to clear things up, there is ping speed and chart speed. 2 separate things. Ping speed should always be set as fast as possible. That way you get the most detail.
It’s more or less an estimate (for me) to match the boat speed to the chart speed. When I want to get a good picture of things I travel at a slow walking pace and set the chart speed to “look” like a waking pace along the bottom. A too fast chart speed will “stretch” the picture and a too slow chart speed will make things look narrower than they really are.
Without getting technical, just remember that your chart speed has to be moving along across the screen. It’s no good if it’s moving really slow or not at all, and this is what happens when a sounder does not have enough power. At anchor it’s ok to have the chart speed slow.
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Was the old cable turning smooth/ freely in the same mounting position?
If all those things check out as being smooth as you say, I think you have either a faulty or cheaply made cable or rotary helm. It seems like as soon as you put some pressure on it, it becomes stiff.
Could also be the wrong ratio at the rotary helm. Is the gear pattern/ ratio the same as your old one?
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Yeah me too. Bimini was left up and I got charged extra.
I don’t think they are randomly charging boat trailers the extra. Something must have tripped the limits to charge to class B.
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1 hour ago, 61 crusher said:
I used to lose at least one jig off the ocean rocks every session until a guy next to me told me to stop whipping the rod & came over & grabbed the line from the tip and without to much tension used his other hand like a bow & arrow technique and flicked the line several times & the jig came free. Since then I’ve saved a lot of jigs from a watery grave, I still lose the odd one probably due to being wedged on the bottom or fishing line. I hope this helps
Can you explain further how this bow and arrow technique works to free snagged jigs? I usually just continually yank and yank with the rod until it rips free.
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3 hours ago, LuckyFil said:
Came across this old photo of my wife with a 10lb flathead she caught 32 years ago in Pittwater on handline (we only fished with hand lines those days). She reminds everyone that she was 7 months pregnant at the time.
We caught plenty of fish in the 6 to 8lb range at this spot with the occasional bigger one like this. Fish were
measured by weight not length then so I've no idea how long this one was but I'd say she's up around 90cm.
Thought it might be of interest to other Raiders
cheers
Fil
That is one nice Flatty. Good on her 😉 I love seeing fisherwomen catching fish.
Looking at the picture I would say a genuine 90cm as well.
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12 minutes ago, SydneyIsSkyBlue said:
Is there a way to estimate the depth of an area you're fishing if you're land based?
You will feel snags or the bottom touching your lure (when you next lift it) when you let it sink too far. Remember how long you let it sink for in that spot.
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7 hours ago, SydneyIsSkyBlue said:
Hi Raiders,
A bit of a weird one here considering that I have caught myself a number of squid (all land based) over the last few months. However some how I feel like I tend to catch them by "luck" when I'm whipping the rod to impart movement on the jig rather than by feel.
I'd like to hear what you guys think regarding the "squid strike" or "bite". Those that do chase squid, are you actually feeling the strike or is it more of a visual thing for you (i.e.: watching the rod tip bend, line straighten etc)? For those that ask about technique, I tend to hold my rod down towards the water in the 8 o'clock position and whip from 8 to 11 with the occasional sideways whipping motion.
This was none more evident than last night during my first night squid session where the visual aspect was diminished due small amounts of light and not being able to see the rod tip meaning that I had to rely on what I perceive to be the feel. It produced one squid for the night but again, I put it down to being in the right place at the right time and lifting my rod just as the squid was on it. The thing that baffles me is I do think I felt some sort of weight on the line which convinced me that it was the right time to lift but then found it hard to separate that sensation to the tension on the jig when dragging through the weeds down the bottom. There were also numerous moments where I was letting the jig sink and felt increasing tension on the rod tip, yet I would wait 2-3 seconds to let it build then strike for no result.
I guess what I'm trying to ask in my usual long winded way is, can someone help me out with knowing when a squid is hanging on to your jig?
Hi. Squid don’t “strike” a lure with any noticeable force. They just reach out and grab hold of it.
A squid will grab the lure on the slack line when you are letting it sink. You won’t feel the take. You will feel the weight of the squid on your next lift or jig flick. This also pins the spikes in.
Also, from my squid fishing experience, (a lot) the guy that can keep his jig flicking just off the bottom, not going too high and not fouling the bottom will get the most squid.
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1 hour ago, fragmeister said:
Yep... same here on my 10000
there is a school of thought that auto bail arms put a twist in your line each time and with those reels typically used for repeated drops like when jigging it can all add up ... at least that’s the suggestion.
Where did you see that Jim? Just picturing how it works, I can’t see how it would put any extra twist. It won’t be any different to closing manually.
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When launching, I back down as least as possible to get the boat into the water. Depending on boat size, but a small tinny will float in very skinny water. This way you minimise the area of wetting the trailer.
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14 hours ago, SydneyIsSkyBlue said:
Very easy @61 crusher.
Once I've cleaned the squid, I soak it in milk for 24 hours or so (can also be kiwi fruit or any of the other things
Why do you soak them? Fresh caught squid has a taste and texture (awesome snap when you bite it) that you can’t beat anywhere.
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I’m no qualified pro either mate. Just know stuff from experience.
If you can, you need to check if power is getting to the starter when you turn the key. Fairly easy with a multimeter and a helper.
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2 hours ago, JonD said:
If you have a GoPro mount it facing where you think the noises are coming from to make sure you are trying to fix the right issue.
If it is the in fact the tow hitch making the sound, he should be able to lift it by hand and replicate the loose noise on a light trailer like that.
I’m guessing the hitch and the tow ball are not perfectly matched to each other in size/ shape.
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2 hours ago, frankS said:
Bloody hell I can't take a trick lately, was planning on a trip down to Bermagui for a bit of R and R + fishing and thought I better run the motor to check water and all that sort of stuff ( long way to tow it to find something wrong ) well that chinaman I ran over several times lately struck again. The motor won't turn over, tried battery check OK tried linier connection check OK tried going between gear and neutral with wiggles etc NOTHING choke works so wiring OK . Check all wires make sure everything tight check OK . Think it's either starter motor or solenoid . will have a play tomorrow just too upset now to be bothered. Something is telling me to jive this game up.
Frank
First up, is it making any kind of sound at all when you turn the switch to start?
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2 hours ago, pugzthugz said:
We would rather not use a petrol motor because of the costs of gas, we would rather get to places more slowly for cheaper. Thx for reply
Electric is going to be VERY slow going. Much better to get a small petrol engine. Fuel costs hardly anything for one of those if you get a four.
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Nice work mate. Can I ask, what is that jig in the last picture? I like it.
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5 hours ago, JonD said:
How freaky is that when you forget they are on the back, then glance back in the mirror only to see the front of a boat right up your rear.
The power modern diesels put out and a decent set of rear springs you really can forget there's anything behind. Even my little 2.2 diesel delivers 440nm of torque where the fuel economy sits bellow 10lt per 100km towing.
I don’t know how in the world you can “forget” you are towing something, regardless of the weight?
What happens when you cut a corner because you ‘forgot’ you were towing a trailer?
Minn Kota Powerdrive to Ipilot conversion
in The Workshop
Posted
Hi mate. I have a V1 and I did this exact conversion when the ipilot just came out. Back then Minn Kota couldn’t tell me if it will work or not but I took the risk. It’s been working perfectly ever since and I recommend it if you want to save money from buying a whole new Ipilot unit.
I had to change the board to a V2 and then fit the kit like you said.
A few things I recommend after owning this for so long is to solder every electrical joint on the whole unit including the board. You have to cut some of the original plastic and then seal with sealant but it’s worth it to avoid loose wire problems that make the unit do silly things on its own or just not work and ruining your fishing day.
Good luck.