Nolongeramember
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Posts posted by Nolongeramember
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I hardly ever fish land based but whenever I go to have a look I see this practice happening a lot. Casters having no care at all about what is behind them on a packed out wharf. Kids walking around.
I call it common sense to check behind you before casting. Especially when it is crowded or people around.
I haven’t witnessed any accidents, but judging from what I see people doing I reckon it must happen. Scary to think about what can happen.
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You can try a spinnng flouro like Vanish. No leader, just straight through.
I don’t like clips myself. Just tie each time.
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57 minutes ago, GordoRetired said:
Most spots are well known so publishing them will not make much difference 🙂
That’s the argument everyone says but it does make a big difference mate. When someone writes something like “the big 1m plus kings are on right now at so and so with everyone getting some the last few weeks” And a picture to back it up. You can bet traffic there will increase big time in the following days/ weeks.
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1 hour ago, bluefin said:
All 3. Depending on where and when I fish, and what for. Howard.
Same for me. They all have their time and place depending on what I am doing. I like using all lures.
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56 minutes ago, wazatherfisherman said:
Hi Paddy great point about using bronze trebles. I don't reckon a lot of younger fisho's would realise the value of using the bronze trebles as opposed to the common use of silver coloured trebles regardless of the various strength and rust proofing qualities. Better hook-ups and far, far better "matching the hatch" properties
I’ve never heard of or seen bronze trebles. They sound worthwhile. Why do you get better hook ups and match the hatch with them?
How is the strength and bend resistance?
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11 hours ago, Sawtyscott said:
On occasion it would turn over but not fire after not being used for a week or two. I would remove the fuse cover & check the fuses(all ok) then it would start & run fine?
Just do that then when it plays up.....
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Hydraulic steering. Yum 🤤
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3 hours ago, PaddyT said:
You need to be fast, i drop them upside down into a wet towel and if i have the gear ready i bridle them , but again, I aim to have them out of the water for less than 30 seconds, so practice your bridle rigging at home with a dead fish if you want toget better at it, otherwise i just whack a 8/0 throuhgh the nose and the other thing is dont knock the boat out of gear, keep moving forwards, as soon as the bait hits the water it will have water forced through its mouth and gills, if you stand still the frigate or bonnie will die, also dont bugger around getting them in, use some stick! The dont last as long as a yakka but if they get eaten who cares.
Yep, I haul them it real quick and they are back into the water quick smart, but they pretty much die as soon as they go back in. I haven't tried trolling them, only at anchor so that must be my mistake. Thanks.
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2 hours ago, zmk1962 said:
I'd be interested to hear how @PaddyT does it.... for me, I have found that bridle rigging a live bait keeps it alive the longest as it does not interfere with its normal breathing. If its a small bait an elastic band works, if its bigger like a small bonnie then a loop of dacron does the job. It's simplest if you have a live bait needle. I have the needle and elastic bands / loops of dacron easily accessible on my cutting board ready to go - so the bait spends minimum time out of the water.
Cheers Zoran
I’m referring specifically to Frigates. No matter how well I treat them or how fast I get them back out as a live bait they quickly die.
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17 minutes ago, PaddyT said:
If there around , they are around, 30-35 cm as a livey is a great size, kings will harrase bigger bonnies but not eat them easily, if we see frigates on top we spin one up and whack a hook through its nose and fish it where we caught it
Paddy how do you keep them alive? If I spin one up it dies as soon as I put it back into the water.
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It’s sad because I enjoy going to a store and talking/ checking things out. Slowly all the physical stores are closing as there just isn’t enough business for them.
Online has taken over and I have made my own contributions to that
Its the same story in a lot of other areas of retail as well.
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18 minutes ago, kingie chaser said:
I wont say it wouldn't happen because there could be condition issues of some kind with the main line but the chances of the heavier main braking before the lighter leader line a very slim imo!
The is more chance of a knot failure than anything else.
Your theory of a lighter leader catching more fish is somewhat of a weak argument as if you want to use a specific leader strength then all you need to do is increase the mail line strength, eg you want to use a 6lb leader then then just spool your real with 8lb mail line, but I guess if need be you could then go up in leader strength anyway if you are getting snapped of by something bigger than a light leader can handle.
There's no rules or wrongs in fishing, just what is your preference or theory.
Your not looking at it this the correct way. I’m saying the heavier main line will NOT snap. The lighter leader will go first. And yes, at the knot.
What you are saying about all you have to do is increase the main line strength and then it will be more than the leader you are using is a good point. But then your overall rig strength will be higher as well. This is not what Derek is doing. He’s downsizing his mainline to less than the leader, so the mainline knot is the weakest point. Therefore, using a more stronger leader than the main is a waste because you don’t get the benefit of the full strength of the leader because the mainline will snap first.
Trust me, it’s not a weak argument of using a lighter leader than the main catches more fish. You just need to understand it.
The only time I think a heavier leader than the main is good is if you have to have the slightly better abrasion resistance. Otherwise, lighter leader will always be better IMO.
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8 minutes ago, DerekD said:
Hi again,
Hmmmmm..... Now I'm going to get a chocolate milk and retire to the computer room to do some serious thinking.
The actual strengths through methodical testing is something I haven't factored into my calculations. I do factor in the behaviour of the lines from past experiences and do use the numbers on the box even though I expect there to be a fudge/safety factor.
I'll get back to you on the other stuff when I have a little bit more spare time. Just a quick clarification now - when you are talking about the line snapping do you mean at the knot, in the main line or in the leader?
I do agree with you about the lighter line theory and have had to point out to people that while I might lose more fish than them, if I am hooking more in the first place then I am usually ahead overall at the end of the session.
Regards,
Derek
Haha your a funny man Derek. I’ve got you thinking now lol. I like the fact you actually want to think it through some more.
When I say the line will snap, I mean at the weakest point which will be the knot. So if the leader is weaker than the main line, it snaps at the lure knot (in the rigs I tie that is)
If the main line is the weaker then the rig snaps at the leader knot on the mainline end.
I do agree with you that the larger leader has better abrasion but you have to draw the line somewhere and compromise. Remember, the lighter the leader the more bites you get.
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47 minutes ago, DerekD said:
Hi @Hateanchors
Excellent question. I want you to get yourself a beer or beverage of choice and head to the pool room or wherever you do your best thinking.
You and I are probably coming at this from a totally different angle and they would each have their own merits. I will still do my best to convert you to my way of thinking.
I'll use bream gear as a starting point. Line has weight and resistance through the air when you cast or fish in deep water. We are using some ultra-light lures too these days. Generally it is of benefit to go as light as possible on your mainline as it gives you extra casting distance. Fish a 1/8 oz lure on 10lb against me with 4lb and I suspect I will consistently cast further and I'd expect noticeably so. The advantage you have over me is chaff resistance against teeth or rocks. The way for me to get the best of both worlds is to have a short length of leader of say 8lb. A smooth and well set (not locked) drag allows me to protect the main line. That short length of heavier leader gives me a bit more control over the fish when it gets close. You will see the same sort of logic with wind on leaders offshore. When that tuna or marlin is close to the boat a couple of wraps on the reel of the long leader has just doubled the pressure you can put on the fish.
If you are using leader as the weaker of the two what is your real benefit? What is your actual goal? If it is finer than your mainline then I think your main line is too heavy. If it is lighter than your main line then why not run leader material all the way through (loss of feel is one counter argument). So what main line would you use with the 8lb leader?
A friend of mine tried your system one summer when the kings were playing and we saw a couple in the area we were fishing. I told him I'd hook one up for him with his rod and on the second cast I did and passed the rod over to him. He knew his main line well but had to factor his thinking to allow for the lighter leader. When I'd asked him why earlier he pointed out that it was sacrificial and would breakaway first. He was right and promptly lost the fish. If I'd hooked it on my lighter set-up, to this day I am still confident I would have landed that king (they were borderline legal).
Most braid will over-test. That 4lb braid I used in my example is more likely to break at 9 or 10lb on the test bed. If we take actual breaking strain into account I am really fishing say 8lb all the way through. It has been shown time and time again that a knot in fishing lines reduces breaking strength. Your uni/blood knot/etc at the terminal end of the tackle has probably halved your breaking point of the leader so you have lost even more strength your system and for what advantage? If you argue that when you snag up it will breakaway then remember it was already likely to breakaway at that point already (unless you have dirt cheap braid). Having said that when fishing kings a few months ago in deep water I didn't want to lose the very heavy sinkers we were using so I ran down to the sinker then a swivel and had a sacrificial section below this which still had enough strength to fight the fish. In the event of a snag it was most likely to break at the loss of a hook and a bit of line.
Up the other end of the scale with the tuna or marlin - the section of line which will cop the most abuse is the leader. It may rub up against the fishes body or mouth. It will likely come back chaffed or nicked. Again where is your advantage fishing a lighter leader?
I'm looking forward to hearing your additional thoughts on this one.
Regards,
Derek
Hi Derek. Well I’ll try to explain why I prefer to have my leader as the weakest link in my line.
I’m not talking braid v mono and the (made up) lb numbers manufacturers call them. I mean actual strengths and that my leader is always weaker (by my testing) than the main line. When pulling on the whole line, the leader snaps, not the main line.
We all know that that the lighter line catches the most fish and the leader line is what the fish sees most.
So just say you and I have a rod each. Both our lines break at 6lb by test. My leader is thinner than yours and snaps at 6lb. Your leader is larger than mine so doesn’t snap but your mainline is the weaker so that snaps at 6lb instead.
We both then have the exact same pulling power on a fish before a break off. My advantage is I have a better chance of catching a fish as my leader is the thinner.
Also, when you want to break off a snag, the leader breaks not the main line.
From your story about your friend. Other things being equal, I can’t see how your lighter line would have landed the King when your friends stronger line snapped.
If your friend has a leader that snaps at 8lb and his main line snaps at 10lb and you have the opposite, both rigs are going to snap at the same pressure. I don’t see anyone having a pulling power advantage. But you said your rig was lighter than his so I can’t see how you are confident you would have landed the fish on your gear.
To summerize. You are kind of ripping yourself off with having the leader as the stronger because you could go lower in leader size to match your mainline strength and still have the same “pulling” strength overall.
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1 hour ago, Northwood said:
Have been out a few time recently and noted the lack of schooling Australian Salmon. Also lucky enough to have a guided trip with Fishabout the other day. The guides said NSW fisheries have allowed netting of Salmon at the Hawesbury and further up the Coast.
Any thoughts on that?
You see Salmon school up and feed because of the bait fish that are there for them. If there isn’t any or less bait than usual you are not going to “see” as many salmon. Could be one possible reason.
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11 hours ago, DerekD said:
Generally my leaders are rated 50% to 100% heavier than my main line.
Regards,
Derek
Why do you use a leader stronger than your mainline? I have never understood why people do this.
I always have my leader as the weaker of the 2.
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On 11/16/2018 at 6:10 AM, masterfisho7 said:
DJI Mavic
This is a Mavic Air. It’s a bit small for my liking. I like the Mavic Pro/ platinum size.
I have a Mavic Pro and it’s a very good drone. It is one of the better quality drones around and will do everything you want from a drone. They are very, very popular for this reason. If you go to a spot where people fly drones and video scenery, 9 out of 10 drones you will see there are Mavics.
There is a new model out now called Mavic 2 I think. You might be able to pick up a Pro or Platinum for cheap.
There are more expensive drones but if you want a “good” drone without getting the absolute best, this is one of the ones to get.
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Just to add one more reason. A small length of mono gives a little bit of give and stretch, which is good.
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On 11/15/2018 at 5:07 PM, TheMadFisho said:
Hi Everyone, just wanted to know what you do to your Squid jigs after a big day out on the water?
I keep a small bucket on the boat with holes drilled in the bottom. All hooks, jigs and lures got into it after using. At the end of the day they are rinsed with fresh water in the bucket and then laid out to dry.
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Good on you for fixing up what you have Fab. I’m a bit like that as well.
One thing I’ve learnt with the primer bulbs is to spend the extra and find a quality one. I used to buy them from Bias and they would harden and be useless within a year. I then bought a Quicksilver one and it’s been excellent. I would imagine genuine would be pretty good too.
The primer bulb is definitely one item you need to hunt down and get a quality (name brand) one.
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On 10/27/2018 at 11:40 PM, Caple666 said:
This net is for my tinny. I am leaning towards the enviro net just wondering if the hooks get caught up in the net at all. I fish lures quiet a bit and dont want to spend all my time getting trebled hooks out.
No they don’t.
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On 10/26/2018 at 9:03 AM, Caple666 said:
hello fellow raiders
im looking to get a new landing net as mine is on the way out. any ideas on a decent one thats not going to break the bank. not looking for a huge net but its still gotta be a decent size. any help would be appreciated.
cheers ✌️✌️
I have 2 nets on my boat. I use an Enviro style net (forgot the name) for most of what I catch. Fish and hooks don’t get caught up in it which I like. You can just tip the fish and hooks out every time like tipping out of a bucket. It makes things alot easier. It’s harder to drag through the water of course, but I don’t find that an issue when landing fish.
I have another larger and stronger framed tradtional style net for big or “prized” fish.
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16 hours ago, zmk1962 said:
Yup that would explain the bulb going soft - but not the plugs being wet. Unless there are two independent problems at same time.
Plugs being wet does not necessarily mean it’s running rich/ overfueled.
Fab keeps his stuff in top condition and his engine isn’t that old or well used. I reckon it’s something simple like bad fuel or obstructed air/ leak maybe.
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12 minutes ago, zmk1962 said:
Well that leaves erratic firing (misfire) - broken plugs, leads, cdi ignition circuit - as a possible cause of wet plugs. But that would not explain why the bulb goes soft.
The fuel/ pressure is probably just slowly leaking back into the tank.
What is this bar on my new boat???
in Boating
Posted
Looking at the spacing of the holes, I don’t think it was factory fitted. A past owner has added their own modification. You would have to question whether it does anything useful on that boat.
Take it for a test and decide for yourself if you want it on there.
Just curious, is there a matching one on the opposite side?