Testlab

Tried to PM you but getting a message saying the serve has not activated Tapatalk. Windybanks on the Pacific Highway at Asquith is the closest I know of to Hornsby.

Something to add, with the CH 21, 22, 81 and 82 repeaters the range of a handheld may be sufficient but inadequate on CH16 in case of emergencies especially when in estuaries or up the Hawkesbury. Although not part of any formal education program on marine radio it is worthwhile remembering that if no answer is heard on CH 16 to change to a repeater channel and try again.

How big is the tinny? Where do you fish? What is the purpose of having it (emergencies, call up mates)? A fixed mount unit is more powerful and the use of a fixed antenna will have much better range than a handheld. But that won't matter if you will never need those capabilities.

Good luck. These sorts of things can be really annoying but certainly don't head to sea without being 100% confident. It's does sound like slipping to me. I am more familiar with Twin Disc and ZF boxes. Something that may not be of any consequence but is nagging in the back of my mind is how finicky it is to find neutral. I wonder if the valve has a blockage or is too small. Honestly I am out of ideas. Hopefully there is nothing wrong and it just needs the bigger exchanger but ask the gearbox builder if its possible to measure slippage with it installed.

I would have a talk to the reconditioning workshop. If it ran OK before then it shouldn't need a different heat exchanger. Have you had this boat for a while or is it a recent purchase? Maybe a bigger heat exchanger will solve it but I would be wondering why it is needed. It may be a perfectly normal thing for the type of clutches fitted during rebuild to require a bigger xchngr. Did the rebuild workshop supply the new heat exchangers or were they sourced separately? To check the lever and valves are moving all the way, take off the shift cable and manually put it in gear and run up to speed and see what happens. If the shift lever isn't moving all the way it may be the cause. Does it increase temperature rapidly or very slowly? If rapidly the clutches are probably starting to slip, hence the rapid rise once the load gets past the friction limit. If slowly it may be the xchngr is too small. Lastly.... Do you have a rope around the prop and shaft? Is there enough water passing through the xchngr - maybe the raw water pump impellor is shot and the gearbox xnchngr is last in the chain so it's getting a double whammy of low flow and hot water from the engine cooling system.

You can get gasket material from most auto stores. Just make sure it suitable for use with fuel.

If you want a trouble free fuel tank then other than just washing it out, remove all the hardware and clean the pick up filter (if fitted) and replace the seals or O rings. If you use metho or alcohol then you need to flush it out several times because dislodged gum may not be entirely free and could clog stuff up after a couple of tanks of fuel pass through.

A few ideas on the cause, assuming it was running ok for years prior to the rebuild. 1. The pump intake screen (filter) is choked up with fuzz from the wear in period. Remove and check, keep checking. 2. The hydraulic hoses are leaking, allowing air into the system and the clutch packs are slipping and getting too hot. 3. The pump has low output and clutch slipping and getting too hot. 4. Heat exchanger has been reverse connected, dumping crud into the tranny and blocking pump/filter. 5. The clutch packs are different to the originals and produce more heat. 6. Incorrect transmission fluid 7. Blocked heat exchanger 8. Shift cables/shuttle valves are not moving all the way - clutch not fully engaged and too hot. 9. Trolling valve jammed or not reconnected properly. At what load is it getting hot? Cruising above 6 kts or pulling 2 tonnes of nets above 6 kts?

bladder tanks petrol That string seemed to turn up some interesting results for "liquid containment" including the supplier to surf life saving.

Depending on the size and type of boat, there is also QBE and Nautilus.

A portion of license fee renewal does go toward MRNSW but that mostly funds administration and management costs. The individual units still have to raise most of their own funds to run their units, replace boats, pay for fuel, etc. and the people who man the boats and radios are all volunteers who often leave their jobs or homes at any hour.

The eye on fibreglass boats could have been installed many different ways due to differences between makers and the size of the boat. Small boats could have a U bolt simply glassed in, sometimes even without a sandwich plate on the back. Others have a substantial block glassed into the vessel structure, passing all the way through and anchored to a sandwich plate before being sprayed with flow coat. If one end of the eye has come out then either it has broken free or it's bent or it's rusted through and broken. I don't think it will be as simple a repair as first thought if the job is done properly. The old eye has to be removed and the area rebuilt if there is internal damage. Hopefully on a small boat it is simply a matter of cutting off the old eye, heating the ends to pull them out or pushing them through. The bigger the boat the more complicated the repair and a few hours involved to fix and finish nicely.

Almost useless in my opinion. Type 1 lifejackets serve two valuable primary functions. One is to immediately provide flotation and turn and unconscious person face up with their face above water level, thus preventing water ingestion, immersion and death (drowning). The second is to provide flotation so a person can conserve energy and adopt the HELP position, both before and after they become exhausted. An unconscious person submerged to one metre will most likely be deceased since they will likely have been face down and subjected to water inhalation or ingestion before they reached one metre. It may aid survival in some circumstances I guess but I would not entrust my life to any inflatable life jacket if I was exposed to the risk of being knocked unconscious (eg. bar crossings).

That 150kg counts as two people on board since a person was considered to be an average of 70 or 75kg for stability calculations (if memory serves me correctly). At least the weight is low down, but with a big rolling sea or wake it could get nasty if things start shifting around so make sure those tanks and batteries are secure.

QBE is my insurer but they will require a survey the first time they issue a policy.

Get it fixed as soon as possible. That area is under water and eventually water will penetrate and weaken the underlying fiberglass structure. There seems to be a lot of repairs around that area so something nasty happened in the past. $600 sounds reasonable although you could it yourself for a lot less if you have good handyman skills.

When you tried to start it and it wouldn't... did the starter motor crank it over or was it dead?

Go with the simple stuff first. Battery terminals should be clean and tight. Fuel bulb primed and not leaking air or fuel. Gear shifter was properly in neutral. Etc.

Its been done before. Independent valuers could catalogue and value items which would be difficult to prove were of a certain condition or had a certain market value. Problem was the insurance companies would never agree to the accept these valuations at face value because of the stupid mark ups and valuations done by jewellers and antique dealers.

No, they won't learn. Good visuals on the air delivered slimy though.

Do you mean the artificial reef off South Head?

I assumed FB was land based and I was referring to the strip of Ettalong that runs from the sand ramp down past the Mantra. I call the other side (south side) Ocean Beach but I don't often see board riders there unless its a larger swell or do you mean when they are out past Lobster Beach? The surf titles are on at Umina/Ocean Beach this weekend. Land based, I didn't think about the section between the sand ramp and the sandbars to the south where the rocks are as I haven't fished it myself. Now I want to give it a try Lately I have been heading offshore or exploring around the islands and channels. I certainly agree about Half Tide rocks and along the sand bars, great spot for boats but I still think one has to fish the turn of the tides to get the best from the area. I have only lived this end of the coast for a couple of years so my local knowledge curve is still steep.

Ettalong is a non surf beach with a 3m deep channel running most of its length. It has a very fast run that makes it unproductive unless you fish close to the turn of the tides. Any typical bait rig for the species you are after will do. There are a few rock structures near the ferry wharf. Its productivity varies a lot, some days it's ok others not a bite. Best times are predawn and dusk but the tidal run is very important. This weekend the NSW surf life saving titles are on at Umina so the whole area is going to be packed out with competitors and spectators. Parking will be a female dog, so if it is too difficult then try off some of the public wharves that dot the waterway instead.

Cool. Just enjoy yourself. Glad to help.

With an 8hp you'll have no trouble up here on the coast. Lots of ramps, some big and busy, some small and perfect for that size boat. Seeming you're new to boats then I suggest somewhere where you can try with comparative safety yet have a go at several species and methods. So how about Woy Woy Inlet. There is a nice little ramp called Lot 7032 Woy Woy Road Woy Woy NSW (paste this address into google maps). Fish the turn of the tides and a couple of hours each side. Bring a bait trap and at high tide you can get poddy mullet for tempting a few flatties. The inlet is well protected from all but the worst weather and you can venture out into Woy Woy channel when you feel ready. There are bream and whiting taken on soft plastics and bait in the various bays and inlets. You will have mobile phone coverage in most of the inlet. It's an easy drive from Sydney. Take the F3 to the Gosford exit. Turn right onto Woy Woy Road at the top of the hill at Kariong (after the shell servo). This will take you right to the ramp after a scenic drive and a few twists and turns down Bulls Hill. It's about 50 mins from the start of the F3 to the ramp. With any small tinny, wear a life jacket, it's the law if you're in the boat by yourself but also good sense.