shakey55

kanTec. Not sure what part of sth west Sydney you are in, but if you have time on a weekday you could put it in at either of the two following ramps. 1. Davy Robinson Park BoatRamp Davy Robinson Drive, Moorebank, or 2. Rabaul Road, Georges Hall I say weekday as it would be quieter on the water. The river runs all the way to Botany Bay

I had a similar problem with My 1999 115 hp Johnson Oceanpro when I first bought it. My guess is that you flooded it and by leaving it for a while the excess fuel has evaporated and left the excess oil behind in the carbies Having that excess fuel gone you were able to start motor and the smoke is from the excess oil in carbies The oil on the leg you describe is just unburnt fuel/oil running out. Nothing to be worried about. My thought is that once you get the starting procedure down pat you will be right. Another tip - if you intend not using motor for months at a time, make sure you start the motor from time to time or if left for long time you will have the same problem starting (fuel in carbies evaporated and excess oil left there). Good luck phisfinger

Thanks for heads up. Winds not been real good for boating lately.

Kingie - I’ve no doubt that the ramp itself is okay, but a few years ago there were trailers being stolen from the car park by the local shite heads. I was hoping there would have been some regulars users on here that may have some recent knowledge.

Jeff I know I asked a couple years ago, and then I didn’t get much of a response. I think I asked just after the upgrade. I have looked at google earth and it looks good, but I’d like to hear from someone who uses it

There is a boat ramp behind the old Flower Power on Newbridge Road, Moorebank called DAVY ROBINSON BOAT RAMP I’ve been told that ramp has been done up in the last couple of years. My question is - Has anyone used this ramp recently and what is it like.

Lifejacket Regulations NSW https://maritimemanagement.transport.nsw.gov.au/lifejackets/lifejacket-law/index.html

I believe a BMT combination of what you are looking for, is movable by an adult, but on a good surface and not grass. Perhaps you need to make the area where the boat is to go more movable friendly, for example concrete pad, large paving blocks etc. Doing this will alleviate the difficulty of manhandling the boat after reversing it to the best position by car and then pushing. Good luck with choice.

All I can say is that I’m glad I wasn’t a member of a fishing/boating forum when there were only two strokes. With 80% of members complaining post after post. Imagine, bloody two strokes motor, Smokey, cost way to much to run, etc, etc, etc. Stop bloody whinging, they were part of history which we all went through. Motors have evolved, for better or worse who knows. I for one still run a two stroke (115ph Johnson Oceanpro) and love it. Not missed a beat. It may be a little Smokey at times, and yes a little thirsty compared to today’s technology, but who really cares. I love boating and have no reason to spend tens of thousands of dollars to upgrade when I’m happy with the performance I already have at my disposal And to think this criticism of motors and people started from a forum member requesting information about a boat inspection in Sydney

Garfield28. I recently had a mishap at the boat ramp and did this to my Seafarer (see picture). I was not happy and not sure what to do or how to do, so I had a fibreglass repair bloke come and have a look. He confirmed what I thought and that was that I ripped the gel coat off and haven’t really damaged the glass structure. I discussed gelcoat with him and he told me as Noel mentioned earlier that gelcoat will not dry completely and will stay tacky, and that flowcoat is the answer. I let him do the job. He sanded the area and applied flowcoat on the damaged area which was underneath. The flowcoat settled and did not drip off. He suggested I leave the finished job alone and no need to sand perfectly flat unless I wanted to. He would have sanded if I wanted obviously for additional dollars. As it was underneath and at rear I didn’t worry about it. I may sand and make it look pretty is I ever sell the boat. What I’m trying to say is flowcoat is bloody thick and does not run like paint (at least on my job it didn’t). If you are doing it, may I suggest you speak with the fibreglass supplier and see what he says about mixing so it does not run or drip. I haven’t got a picture of the finished job, but if you want one I can easily get it for you. Good luck

In my opinion, depending on your budget, I’d be selling your current boat and buying a cuddly cabin similar to a Seafarer V-Sea (5 meter) or a Cruise Craft Explorer (5 meter) Just my opinion, and yes there are other cuddly cabs about, but these would be my choice. Good luck with your decision making

Could you just use flowcoat or are the repairs needing more than that. Just a thought

I read or heard somewhere that the Grotto Point incident, the boat was being driven at the time by a woman in her 80’s. Can’t find anything to confirm or negate. Appears to have taken an expensive short cut.

I too can recommend the V-Sea (Seafarer) as I’ve owned the older 4.8 like the one you were originally looking at, and I now have the 5m current shape with 115ph. they are a good family boat for what you want. these boats come up fairly often but some are soft around the floor and transom. Be patient and you’ll find one, and of course there are other glass boats out there that will suit your needs as for hours on the motor, I’m quite sure ALL boat owners have an idea on how many hours have been put on their motors over time. In my opinion to not know is rubbish. when buying first boat, it will be worth spending a few dollars to have expert go over boat looking for rotted areas and a good mechanic of your choice have a look at motor. good luck kanTec

I second streamline. Had a full cover and new Bimini made for my my 2000 model Seafarer V-Sea. He did a great job and still like new, although it needs re waterproofing https://www.streamlineboatcovers.com.au

Thanks for the info regarding engine flushing during water restrictions. the other day I heard and it’s reported here https://www.google.com.au/amp/s/amp.theaustralian.com.au/commentary/strewth/growing-grass-cost-at-parliament-house-in-canberra/news-story/31b0a9fc41b5157a70251d58adc5a5a9 that it cost over $500,000 last financial year to water the gardens at Parliament House Canberra It’s nice to have good looking gardens, but really - what a waste of money.

Is this any good to you https://forums.iboats.com/MerCruiser/

Not sure if this is too late, but I just bought my first kayak for fishing. I bought a 4m single seat fishing yak with rudder. I bought the 4m to suit my size and I got the upgraded seat which is fab. have a look at this place. Great to deal with and very well priced for first kay

+1 for the Alvey’s off the beach

Although it is an app, I have read that compasses in phones can be affected by those phone covers that have magnets in the back. how close was you phone to the motor?

Have a look here. it really is a simple job for a handyman

A mate has bought a water snake motor for his kayak from that large fishing/camping store. He is now considering battery size and he believes that the amps draw by this motor he needs a big battery. He is talking about something with the dimensions and weight of a car battery. Is this the size battery that you kayak blokes use or should he be considering something else in size and weight that will give him enough power. thanks

Yes. It clearly says ‘you can drive an unregistered vehicle in NSW for the purpose of obtaining registration. it then outlines a number of things - read the list of things and you will see that you are covered getting your blue slip

As DMCK said, Jarrett. I have one for my current shape Seafarer V-Sea. It is great and never let me down

This place at Granville will supply all the parts you need to replace axle etc (it’s a job you can do yourself) Also When you can drive unregistered You can drive an unregistered vehicle in NSW for the purpose of obtaining registration. You must drive the most direct or convenient route: To the nearest convenient registry or service centre To the nearest convenient Authorised Inspection Station to determine whether the vehicle complies with the applicable vehicle standards In the course of inspecting or testing the vehicle to determine if it complies with the applicable vehicle standards To the nearest practicable weighbridge to determine the weight of the vehicle From a registry or service centre, or authorised inspection station, where registration of the vehicle has been refused, to the nearest convenient place where necessary repairs can be made, or where the vehicle can be garaged, unless a direction has been issued that the vehicle must not be driven until repairs have been made From an Authorised Inspection Station to the nearest convenient place where necessary repairs or adjustments can be made, or where the vehicle can be garaged To the nearest convenient office of a licensed insurer for the purpose of obtaining CTP insurance To the nearest convenient location for any other purpose directly associated with the registration process. If you’re pulled over by the police while driving an unregistered vehicle, you may be asked to provide evidence that the vehicle is being driven for the purpose of obtaining registration. For example, you may need to provide a copy of the safety check or CTP insurance certificate showing payment for that day.