Rob81

Saltist should do fine if you are on a budget and more into Daiwa's line of reels (or if you would consider shimano's line of reels, the Saragosa). The rod is more important than the reel anyways, as long as you work it properly. Just remember that's a PE4-6 setup you're using when choosing the line. I'd probably look more into what line to use and not skimp out on that part. IMO it's more important than the rod or reel as that is what connects you to the fish and there are heaps of options out there. This is just my opinion, many would probably argue the reel is more important and you should invest more in that area, but I think if you plan on using it is a winch, then yeah, focus more in the reel if that's the case.

To me, metals are more about bling and you lose some of that bling with the stickers some of them have. I tend to just take them off, and as mentioned above, tailors and salmon love the chase. Also the main difference is how it swims which is determined by the shape and types of hook you have on them. Regards to weight of the metal would be determined by the gear you choose to invest in. Most rods will tell you ideal weights, if it mentions metals specifically then stick to that weight range, if it does not but just have lures weights, adjust the weight to the lower side of the range mentioned. Around 20% above the lower mark; For example, 10-60g lures, I would stick to something around 18-22g metals. The metals mentioned above, twisty's, bishops and knights, are all simple, cheap and very effective. You'll probably find when tailors are around, in most cases, you will easily out-catch the people using baits.

You're better off going instore to try them all out. Loaded up with store assistance. but then again field feeling and store feeling can be different.

If you have a budget where you dont care how much you pay, then your range can be pretty much anything. You can be fussy about how you want the rod, down to the level of how you want that rod to be. You have rods around the $150 mark that can do the job up to rods in the $1,300+ mark.

Congrats. Hope you enjoy it.

However, overall I still like both reels and although not in use for myself at the moment I cant see myself selling or getting rid of them. Skirulz will enjoy using it, FK although heavier than the ci4, but its still more than light enough to cast all day.

Agree with Xerotao, you'll also find that the "Metal" which they say is aluminum/magnesium, outta layer can chip for fall off. It's like a coating on the outside to give it, its full metal look. Its been a while since I've looked or used either of my stradics but off memory looked semi plastic under the outta layer. Also sometimes, some of the so-call new technology was actually kinda just old tech but they just now gave it a name when they didnt have a label for it previously.

4k and 5k FK has the same body, the only difference being the spool and the handle knob. I like the knob on the 5k but I got mine at first release so didn't have 5k just yet, but the 4k in regards too spool size has always been more than sufficient enough. I agree with Jon with the reel being Jack of all trades. I tend to use it in my where-ever (Wharf/Rocks) situations previously.

Fk bit tougher as Hagane body and smoother drag as it has the rigid support Drag., Ci4+ lighter (not meaning that is isnt tough in general though). Ci4+ would be smoother and less inertia as it has the MGL rotor and slightly better balanced. Theres like a 35g difference in the 1k model and then about 50g in the 4k. Other then those both pretty much the same specs Depends what you want to use it for. I used to use the 3k Ci4+ for my egi outfit and light lures but can still land decent fish on it. And then I use the 4k FK for fishing baits or heavier lures and kinda just skull drag them in. There a little flex in the handle of the ci4 where I dont really get that feeling in the FK.

Just need to factor in that Brag mats shrink and expand. The last one I tested was 2cms off so if you use one, you should take factor the give or take before deciding if something is legal. The tape measures are great but they can rust over time.

Yeah I remember the Yellowfin on ISO, I heard it was full of worms, hence the it wasn't a big fight for the species as usual and could explain why it was closer to shore than usual that time. But I have seen other reports of yellowfin caught shore based before, just not landed on ISO.

Was this the yellowfin?

Ahh explains. I've always avoided laying traps there in general thinking was banned for all forms of crab traps. Thank you for clearing this up for me.

Nice feed there. However, correct me if I am wrong, but I thought crab traps weren't allowed in Lake Macquarie?

If you're looking at light weight rods you should take a look at seabass rods. Generally light fishing as well as light weight. For example the rod I am using (on paper) weighs 156.3gms and is 10ft in length. Downside is that it runs a higher risk of snapping in a lot of locations when I am trying to bring in a fish without any other aids (such as gaff or net).

Just before the wave approaches you need to get the fish as high up to the surface, at the same time have less line as (as in having tension with your rod facing almost full down ways). As the wave starts to head closer towards the rocks being to start to lift the fish up to the surface and then as the wave moves into the rocks, push the rod side ways to move the fish over, as the fish is already on the surface, the wave will help you push the fish up higher to go over the rocks. If you are a few meters up, you might need to do it in stages if it is too dangerous to go down to get the fish. This is if you must use the wave to bring the fish up. Else as above use some form of gaff/net. Higher cliffs you have cliff gaffs as well.

Main species of crabs Ive caught off the beach are blue swimmer crabs. Not sure which species you are trying to avoid, but if its blue swimmers it probably won't make a difference as they can swim. Sometimes you will see them swimming long distances on the surface of the water.

Fish need to be there first. Usually at those places they swim by, it's not a hangout for the species you mentioned. Thicker leaders won't matter with metals as you'd be retrieving at a higher speed. Mix up the action a little is one thing you can try. There are been days where I have no touches for 2 hours and then all of a sudden one hook up on a bonnie or taylor and then nothing for a while longer. Same technique, same lure different time of day. I've schools of large taylors go by around there but they don't stay for long.

Understandable. i remembered when i was younger VCR's has a sticker inside (sometimes outside) where if you were to open it up, it would rip and that's how they could tell that you opened and tampered with it for the same reasons. For the younger people, a VCR is a device you can use to play video tapes and/or record TV shows. not sure what the go is these days on those things but yeah, same concept, they would lose your warranty if the sticker was found to be broken.

Egi rod can work, however you should check what your ideal max weight it can take. For example, my egi rod is ideal at 20g, however I can cast 25g, I just need to be a little more careful with the cast and probably wont go any higher than that. Also you can feel a big difference with the 5g extra. Start off with the lower weighted lures first and make your way up to see what you can actually safely cast. And as above, running braid would allow further casting.

The rod you are using should show you the ideal weight of the lure you would use for that setup. From there you should get lures within that range, this would probably give you the best outcome in cast. Also different rods would allow you to achieve more different actions. Also, when casting in to one area, maybe mix up the action you use, as sometimes they are attracted to different types of retrieves, you'll just need to work it out that day. If you want to use 5g lures, you would need a really light setup as suggested above.

Yeah they changed the marketing afterwards with the Ci4+. Maybe cause they saw alot of ppl using it in salt water. But even still I use it lightly. I only use it on my squid setup where it is not likely to get wet from the salt water. Its a nice reel, Ill just be a little more careful around the salt with it.

Originally the Ci4 stradics werent marketed for salt water use. They were more for fresh, but everyone used them lightly for salt water use. I too use them for salt water but only in light applications (where it will not get hit with salt water typically).

Just be aware that 100m cast would depend on the gear and also the conditions you are fishing. I would not expect myself to have a 100m cast. How much line would depend on the reel and line you buy for it. You'll need to look at the specs of the reel to show you how much line you can put. Regarding how much should you put, you want to get close to full, as a more full spool would give you a longer cast, but too full of a spool and if you don't cast it right, might end up with a bird nest. Most reels will show you the rough measurements of how much you can put, not necessary how much you can safely put without a birdnest.

Braid catches sand on the beaches (so you would need to clean it after each session to be safe), mono is affected by the surf easier is what I found and can get pulled a bit along the surf. I have the same reel, but I bought a spare spool, one with Mono and other with braid. I would use the mono when rough and braid when flatter conditions. I do this because I find the braid will most likely tangle easier in rough, especially when seaweed is being ripped up and moving along the surf. Mono doesn't tangle as easily and is also easier to fix when it does. For Mono, I'm using cheaper Mono, sunline siglon v, and haven't had any issues with it so far. I'm normally a braid fisherman and this is the first mono I've used a long time, found that I would work harder to bring in the first due to stretch. Advantage and disadvantage of both, just need to take your pick.