wonniefisho

Agreed, most likely residue that isn't burning off. I've found both my current and previous Johnsons (40hp then 50hp) do it after flushing at idle, but never after a run.

Jig heads, Hooks, Hardbodys, Sinkers Just kidding, its not mine. Hope the person does come forward though. Good on you for attempting to find the owner. May you catch a record fish next time you are out.

I was fishing the other day down the Wonnie and a (non-fisherperson) elderly lady said that Fisheries were there the other day releasing bream and flathead fingerlings. I can't find any mention of it on Fisheries web site - they usually have media releases or similar. I have emailed them with no response. Does anyone know if this in fact has been done or was she confused?

Funny you mention that, I was also under the impression Flatties were a summer species, but I was reading an article the other day that said they were a winter species. I only seem to ever catch Bream in the winter.

Agreed. I haven't been around much but when I decided to look out for a cheap $1500 tinny I headed back - disappointed to find it gone. Problem is now theres a chance I might end up with another boat and an even bigger chance the misses might kill me.

Correct. Thanks for all the replies. I haven't tried it yet, but will give it a go soon.

The orange stuff works, but you need multiple fairly thick coats. And yes, you will spend $500 in stripper on a $200 boat.

Seems we visit the same forums!

Rollers are pretty low profile and the axle is already over the springs. I don't really want to move the axle back any further, its already looks a fair way back. No, a Dwarf didn't do the carport, but its a cuddy with small windscreen on top so it is fairly high. Whats stopping me isn't the roof of the carport itself, but the front cross member which is lower than the roof. I could possibly cut part of it out, but being load bearing I don't really want to.

No, no, I really couldn't accept that kind of help. I've been outside to have a look and I think the slabs, as long as I ensure the ground under is solid and flat, will do fine. Its not going to be a big job to do that, and I can always reconsider my options if it doesn't work out. Anyway, we already have a lot of cement out the front (odd design front yard) and the extra area is going to make it look like a concrete jungle - one I was willing to live with, but I think my option might be the best at this stage and will keep the area a bit more 'green'. But I will definitely keep the fishraider gang in mind.

Wow. Thanks for all the responses. I did think about a DIY job, but I'm scared of hard work - and its a pretty big area too. Possibility of lowering the boat somehow has drawn a blank. Its already on 8" wheels, the rollers are as low as they can go, and even without a jockey wheel, its about an inch too high. Raising the carport isn't possible as it shares its weight bearing frame with the garage roof. Well, I guess its possible but probably easier and cheaper to concrete the area I wanted! Technically I don't need the whole of the area where I was going to concrete done, but I was going to take advantage of it and lessen the area I need to mow! What I can get away with, and what would be very cheap and easy to DIY (I don't REFUSE to do all hard work!), is just do a 2.5m wide section next to the current driveway with a row of slabs with the pebbles in between and leave the rest grass. I can picture it now and it would still look pretty good and do the job well. But if I need the house painted, I'll know to get my 'friends' on Fishraider to do it. Ha Ha. Thanks again

Hi all, Since my new boat won't fit under my carport I was planning on concreting an area of grass next to the carport to put the boat, however after getting estimates of $2500 I've changed my mind. I should have been a concreter, I'd be rich by now. Anyway, was wondering if anyone pushes (by hand) a boat onto any sort of pebble driveway and if it can be done. Its flat and its a 4.8 aluminium cuddy cabin on 8" wheels. If you do it, I'd like to know what sort of pebbles you have, I could imagine it might be harder on some sorts than others. The other altenative I guess is to make 2 cement 'tracks' where the boat will go and keep the grass or pebbles around them. Thanks!

Yep, your first fish on SP's is fantastic. Mine was a big flattie too, in the Woronora, which I ultimately lost before landing. I rarely take a net as I rarely catch anything big enough to need a net in the wonnie, but this thing was a monster. Keep it up, the thrill never goes!

September last year I was given a Raider Finesse Bream (first type, not the new MF model) as a parting gift by an old mate who then died in November of cancer, so it has some sentimental value. Its been used 3 or 4 times and Saturday night I got hit by a bream and the darn top snapped, about half way between the tip and the next guide. As soon as I heard it I knew what had happened and just couldn't believe it, my jaw dropped and then out came expletives. My mate looking down would have been peeing himself I reckon. Of all my rods, I've never had one break and it just had to be this one didn't it. Not to mention the sentimental value, matched with a 500 size Plueger, this thing was also an awesome combo. Being a one piece, I assume this is never going to be the same again and can't be successfully repaired? Since I can no longer get the receipt I'm stuffed. I've emailed Shimano but don't expect a response, let alone them offering a replacement. I've been happy with my others - a Rack Raider and Snapper Raider, but not sure if I'll be buying Shimano Raiders again. Are the Starlo Stix Tournament Pro Lite Spin any good? Or maybe I should go for a Nitro.

The way I read it, what said martime said, and their requirements, 99% of tinnys/runabouts don't have legal all round white lights. Picture an open tinny, with low sides and a small floor (or casting deck, even with top of sides). Based on a tinny with a casting deck that you can stand on, say you are 1.8m tall an all round white light needing to be visible with you standing on it, means every one of these boats with a casting deck should have their all round white light mounted on approximately 2m tall mast. How ridiculous! My cuddy cabin has the nav lights mounted half way up the cuddy, which doesn't give me anywhere really to mount the white light other than on top of the cabin, and even on a 600mm long mast (the longest, as you say, in a boating place), I'm still technically 150mm short. Whether they'd be that padantic to measure I don't know, but much of the time complying with the regulations is near impossible, and at the least, extremely impractical.

Thanks guys, will get around to it and see how I go.

Rather than posting in the 'Bag Of Mullet An How To Brine Them For F/h Bait' thread started by someone else, I was wondering how I go about catching mullet from shore. When I use dead bait, mullet strips/squares are my bait of choice, but now my local fish shop is selling it for $18kg, which is ridiculous for mullet, I thought why not catch some. The wonnie is full of mullet jumping but I've never caught any, even by chance for some reason (maybe mullet don't bite on mullet!!), but the impression I get is to use unweighted bread under a float - the problem with that is fishing from shore, theres no way I can cast unweighted bread far enough, so whats the alternative? Obviously I can't use a small sinker under a float can I?

Thanks Huey, Are they the same as NGK B7HS (without the Z and the -10) as I have 2 sitting here that were never put in my 89 model 40hp

Yes, Huey, can you confirm what plugs are correct (I'd say my 99 50hp takes the same) as I seem to read conflicting specs between the few similar plugs as I too have the BPZ8HS-10 in mine - or are they so similar that its not a real issue.

I had dramas with mine too. Similar sort of setup, things would go haywire when I put the parkers on (which also lit up the number plate light on the right). Ended up that when I was doing it I pulled off the connectors to finish off and the actual connector that the number plate bulb presses against to earth it and the + wire pushed onto had come out and I couldn't work out how to put it back, so put it in the way I thought - ends up I put it back the wrong way and the earth and + were crossed on the the number plate globe, which only caused problems with the power was applied to that circuit (parkers put on, hence applying power to the number plate globe). I'd say you have a similar problem somewhere. Take a deep breath, have a rest, then have another look when you aren't hot and bothered. Don't do it in the heat today or you will get the poos and throw something!!! Where are you? If you're in the shire I could be a second set of eyes to have a look for you.

Quicker than public transport, and probably safer too!

They've been found guys!

Yes, most (if not all) image editing programs, if uninstalled don't delete the image file directories they create, so you needn't have worried.

One of the advantages of the VRO being disabled is that you can remove the oil tank! I'm just wondering how its been disabled?? Follow the oil line from the oil tank to the VRO unit - somewhere in between I would say the hose is cut and plugged. There are 2 electrical plugs that should be hanging disconnected, left side of the motor nearish the back - a round 4 pin which is the wiring to the pump, and a 2 pin 'square' connector which is the low oil alarm and goes to the oil tank. I'm basing this on assuming yours is exactly the same as my 50hp 99 model which is likely. Possibly all thats been done to disable it is the 4 pin round connector to the pump has been disconnected and thats it - which is a bit sloppy really. If you need I can get you pics of my 'disabled' setup and the appropriate connections/pluggings and wire colours.

I've got Valvoline 2 stroke outboard Synthetic. I assume thats OK.