wonniefisho

Yes mate, this VRO business has been done to death before, but anyway, theres tonnes of info on disabling it with no ill effects, even if the VRO unit is working well, I'm more than happy to premix and ENSURE its getting oil - if its getting fuel its getting oil. Not to mention get rid of the 5 litre oil container in the boat. Plus the previous owner said that he had the occasional low oil alarm sound irregularly over the years which couldn't be explained by a couple of mechanics other than a 'possible' issue with the VRO unit. Given, I agree a working VRO has its advantages, having no real knowledge of the history of the motor other than what a previous seller says (and we all know how honest a lot of sellers are anyway), rather than hope for the best the VRO is ok, its just as easy to disable it, a 10min job, and use premix which I'm used to using anyway. Thats my decision and I'm happy with it.

Thanks. I just realised why - because I was using premix with the VRO still hooked up so it was getting too much oil. I'll be changing the plugs and have some fresh synthetic 2 stroke oil to do a new premix (now I've disabled the VRO). It was only for a flush, so hopefully should be OK.

Thanks mate. Yeah, I'll be doing a gearbox oil change before I take it out, whenever that will happen. Still in the midst of sanding prior to filling some small dents, etc and painting, then refitting, then do the floor, then the instruments and controls, then the canopy, then I might think about getting some blood on it.

Hi all, With my project boat, I just noticed some thickish black oil looks like its run down from in behind the prop. I'm yet to change the gearbox oil since I've bought it (since I haven't taken it out yet) but I would have been surprised if gearbox oil was that black - could it just be unburnt oil since the last few times its been run it was at idle being flushed in the driveway? I know my 89 Johnson used to do it after flushing (but not after it had been out), but didn't think it was a common thing. Hoping its just that.

A lot of kayakers use large PVC piping with a fixed end one end and a screw top on the other and a squillion holes drilled in it. Light, easy to transport, won't rust.

May I suggest a 'For Sale - non-fishing' subsection? At least that gets the 'rubbish' out of the main for sale section. Just a thought.

Bummer. Hope it turns up for you mate. I know what you mean about sentimental value. I have a baseball cap from when I was 8 (scary that it was 25yrs ago) and started out with playing T-ball. Its a basic dark blue cap with a red Daihatsu patch on it (our sponsor at the time). Its nothing special, I'd never drive a Daihatsu if you paid me, plus its getting a bit tatty, not to mention I don't think we ever won a game, but I wouldn't part with it for the world. Silly really, isn't it?

You may think from my username the wonnie is the way to go, but its my favourite place because its tranquil, close to home, rarely busy, and I can be fishing there 10 min after deciding to go fishing. The fishing is very hit and miss in my opinion. There are better choices.

The Woronora River has a fair few eels too. Take as many as you want. Please

Thanks for the info. Oh well, whats another $70! I'm spending it like its going out of fashion anyway!

Will do. Thanks. Think they are open today? Ha Ha.

Thanks mate. I've been looking around and noticed a few of the manufacturers seem to make exactly the same aerials, with the same part number other than a different letter at the end and was wondering if they were in fact the same aerials with a different plug. The current 27 mhz aerial is about 6ft, and one of those removable ones that screw into a round basemount which is earthed to the hull. If I HAVE to change, I will, and in some ways it will be good as I will then have matching white aerials on both sides of the cabin, but if I can save the dough by changing the plug only, I'll be happy with the existing aerial too.

Hey all, Am I correct in assuming a VHF and 27MHZ aerial are both just coax attached to the aerial and plugged into the unit - ie physically the same except for plugs? Can I save myself $80 or so and use the existing 27mhz and cut the 27mhz plug off and attach a VHF style or is there something else in the aerial that is different?

Hey all, In my new project boat theres a very old not seeming to work 27mhz and a seperate just as old car (not marine) Ferris AM FM radio. I'm hoping to replace the 27 with a VHF but would like the backup of a 27 for boat to boat comms, but still want an AMFM - and really don't want 3 units installed. Is there a combined 27/AMFM or VHF/AMFM unit available? I couldn't find any on the relevant brands web sites, other than the ones that RECEIVE VHF only. In addition, whats the Uniden Solara VHF like - they seem pretty cheap. Thanks

Hey all, I want to paint my aluminium boat. Some of the old paint is peeling, some of it is bubbling, and some of it looks fine. What I was thinking of doing is sanding the lot to rough it up, taking all the flaking and bubbling stuff off to bare aluminium, etch prime and undercoat the bare stuff overlapping the 'good' stuff, then top coat the lot. What I was wondering is if there is some stuff starting to bubble (from salt getting underneath or whatever), if I overcoat the existing stuff that LOOKS ok, is it likely that the good stuff could start bubbling under the new coat and ruining the whole job, or is the new paint going to 'hold' the old stuff? I just don't want to take the whole lot to bare metal if I don't have to. Last question - do I NEED to use a compressor? If so theres a cheap one with air tool kit at a well known auto parts place, alternatively what about one of those electric Wagner spray guns from a well known hardware chain? Thanks.

I'll have another look and give it a go. Would be good to see what else is hiding under there too!

With a torch and a closer look it was just out of finger reach, and easy to push back to get to. What a relief! Lucky too as I couldn't get a socket or spanner on the lower cowling bolts solidly enough to loosen them as there isn't much room - which is a shame as I wanted to replace the air intake drain hose due to the split - that will have to wait unfortunately. Thanks

Thanks Huey, you're a legend. Looks like I'm going to be busy again today. I might use this new boat one day!!

I thought of trying a magnet. Thanks. How frustrating. I thought working with computers was a pain, fancy working with outboards!!!

Bummer, I took the bolt that holds the cover over the electrical connectors on the left side of the motor and dropped it and its gone underneath the power head - and I have no idea where its gone. I assume this is likely to get somewhere it shouldn't - how the hell do you retrieve a lost bolt without completely dismantling the motor!!! ???

Hi all, Just doing some things to my motor, and have 2 questions. After reading the workshop manual it mentions something about the 2 'air silencer' base screws at the bottom of the carby and that they need to be discarded and replaced when they are removed. Can I get clarification as to why? Not sure if they are original or not but the 2 bottom ones on mine were the same type of standard looking bolts as all the others holding the base onto the carbys. Secondly, the drain hose at the bottom of the air intake - I assume this is to drain any water that might get in? And if so, where does the hose that disappears under the motor itself go to - the reason I ask is that the hose is split about an inch back from the the base cover - if it just drains it away and goes nowhere I won't worry about it. Thanks all.

Yep, I replaced mine the other day. $43 each side for complete new ARK brand gal hub with bearings, new wheel nuts and dust cover. That was for a 5 1/2 inch HT hub to suit 40mm square axle. As long as the old bolts on the wheel or hub aren't siezed, its an easy job, and thats coming from a non handy person. Once the wheel is off, its a matter of taking out the split pin and undoing the large hub bolt and they just slide off basically (might need to tap it off from the back if its sticky). I'd also add to the tool kit the pack which is about $10 that include a new hub bolt and split pin. Once the new bearings are greased, put them in the new hub and bolt the hub back on.

On this same subject (since this thread is fairly recent I'll just ask here) - that I'm assuming from reading all this (and just doing one of mine) that since you tighten the hub bolt, then back it off til the wheel spins without resistance from the bolt itself, that the whole hub and wheel assembly is just being held onto the axle with just the 'loose' bolt and a split pin????? That if for some reason the split pin failed, then one needs to hope the man above us is on our side? In particular since I used a new bolt (replaced the hub as well) it turns a lot more easily than the old slightly rusty one.

I'm with you now. I went to do the bearings and the hubs were a bit iffy so replaced the hubs (well, ony side anyway as thats all that auto accessories place had in stock, typical). Galvanised hubs, new bearings, nuts etc. Nice and messy job indeed. The other one I'll do next week and I'll be happy knowing thw towing part is under control and all nice and new. Thanks.

Sorry, I'm not sure I know what you mean.