Swampgecko

Horses for courses, you have however approached this in the right manner. Work out what you are towing weight wise and go from there. This was something my 4WD instructor said about caravaning (he was a professional towing instructor), but also applies to boaties. It will never hurt to have a slightly larger towing capacity than you really need. So aim for something that will tow about 2.5 tonne, remembering that you should also take into account ball weight. Rule of thumb 10% of the all up weight should be on the ball. So your towbar assembly on the new vehicle should be capable of the same. As for vehicles sometimes it is better to stick with what you know, so maybe a later model Prado might be best. I myself have a 2000 GU 4.2 TD Patrol, which I will not be parting with. I am also partial to the Pajero, My Dad's diesel 2008 ex cop unit tows brilliantly and can actually tow more all up weight than my vehicle.

You have nailed it so far, Tyres are always overlooked until they go POP! The only other thing I would add for tyres is bulging on the roadface, for want of a better word. The tyre can start delaminating as it heats up and will let go. I had this happen to me a few years ago. Not a pleasant experience

I recently had success with this sugapen yellow and clear bodied with red strips.

Great Fish Donna, both are bigger than my best lizard........ and your other half sounds like my father, he can't stand it when he gets out fished as well....

A good day even with the nets being lifted. Not that uncommon an act down there, I never leave my nets unguarded now. Always in sight of them, I had come across a boat edging into one, they took off when they spotted me closing in with a camera out. My father on the other hand jumped into a boat, ripped the net out of the bloke's hand, gave them a mouthful and told them to rack off after informing them he was a copper....

I found it anyway. Looks like he was correct. The best way might be to approach the council and see what they tell you, as I said this is only a guide, the council will be the final authority on it.

there is a government map website you can look at to get a possible answer, SIX Maps. It is operated by the NSW Government https://maps.six.nsw.gov.au/ You need to check a couple of boxes to use it, but it is worth it. I am not sure if the layers line up totally but it should give you a good idea of where the boundaries are. Just a hint when using it, in the right hand top corner of the window there are a couple of menu buttons, one is base maps the other is map contents. Select the map imagery and not the satellite imagery first when looking for a location, it will proceed quicker, one you have the location close, select Map contents, it will give a new menu with various layers, Lot Boundaries is the one you want. Remember this is a guide only. If you need help with the website PM me

Short term submersion only, I prefer "water resistant", unless you have used a suitable adhesive or sealant with the heatshrink. If you don't seal it you can get some capillary draw of water into the connection. I have seen this from personal experience working on military aircraft.

Yes, John, Galahs, very cheeky buggers too... get up to all sorts of antics. That is a pair as well, I can't recall if Galahs mate for life like a lot of other cockatoos. We had three as pets over the years. My favourite was named "Stupid". He was actually my father's pet. Dad would teach him different things but the party trick was to get someone new to the bird to go and ask the following question, "How's your bum?" and Stupid woud reply "Full of feathers, How's your's?"

Thanks for the advice everyone. got the line off the spool, fitted some backing line and respooled the original line. Learnt a few new knots in the process. Cheers

Those splice connectors are similar to what is used in the aviation industry, however they are not environmental splices. The military grade ones that we use at work have a small band of adhesive at each end. When hit with either a normal heat gun or infrared heat gun, the insulation sleeve shrinks and the adhesive bonds to the insulation of the wire giving the full environmental protection. When rewiring my boat in the last few weeks, I did all my connections by the the tried and true method of solder splicing and covering with heat shrink, two layers of heat shrink, the outer sleeve just bigger and slightly longer than the first sleeve. It gives a bit more support and protection at the joint.

I had bearing buddies on my previous trailer with no caps. Never had a problem with the bearings. when I did finally get around to repacking the bearings the grease and the bearings were fine. A quick spray with some WD40 and a wipe down of the nipple before pumping in the grease always helps to remove any possible contaminates.

G'day, whilst I have had braided line on my spinning outfit for some time, I haven't really used it that much. I got talked into it by a workmate who is no longer with the company so I can't quizz him on it. I was out on the Hawkesbury below Lower Portland chasing bass using a light combo I have. The braid is a pink Fireline, I can't tell you the age of it or the weight but I believe it is somewhere around the 6lb mark. I had a few issues, but the two big ones were as follows. Frayed line and slippage on retrieval after the spool got wet. The outter couple of layers on the spool I have noticed are faded in colour, which surprised me as I store my rods in the garage. I had the line break couple of times casting, didn't notice the frayed areas until that happened. The fraying may have been from my lack of accurate casting and having the lure end up on rocks and snags. The second issue is the one that concerns me, the whole spool of line was slipping on the spool itself after getting wet during a light rain. Since I had some massive hits with bass and managed to hook up on one small one, I am now convinced that I need to look at how to load braid onto a spool correctly. So first of all how often should you change your braid? What is the best/correct way to load braid onto a spool? Do I need to put a backing line on? I was really enjoying the braid yesterday, I did get one hook up with a sugapen, previously I had used the same outfit at Gosford and had fun with some small tailor. Cheers

Nice! Must get my ;sp back in the water, been tossing sugapens with success for bass of late.

Guided or Not doesn't matter... tick that off the list, that is a nice fish!

Totally agree, I have started hugging my father and father-in-law when ever I see them instead of a handshake. My dad had bloodclots in his lungs 6 months ago on top of a few other issues. My Father-in-law was diagnosed with bowel cancer and had it removed the week before Christmas. Has made for an interesting time.

Check all the earths for your trailer wiring as well. Without seeing the harness first hand my initial reaction is you have a bad earth somewhere. the first place to look would be the trailer at the plug. White is the universal colour for the earth on trailer wiring. And depending on what plug your using will depend on where it is to go. On my trailer it is pin 3 for a 7pin flat. Now depending on how your trailer is wired up, you can either have the earth return by a wire looping to each light to supply the earth, or by the earth going to the trailer frame. If it is to the trailer frame I suggest cleaning each earth at each light, then finding where the earth for the plug is and cleaning that too. The last one to check would be the car. Make sure you have an earth to the appropriate socket on the car socket assembly. I have found, from a past life as an auto-electrician in the RAAF servicing vehicles, that the earth return there can create issues. One vehicle I looked at didn't even have an earth wire fitted on the car side, the owner was relying on the return through the towball assembly. Hope this helps, or as kingfishbig suggests, buy a new lightboard with harness, my brother just did that. BCF have either the olf fashion incandescent globe light boards or an LED version. And the come with a slection of plugs to suite. Hope all this helps

I am just guiding people to to do the right information, so they do not cop a huge fine. I think drone fishing sounds like fun as long as you take into consideration of where and how you operate. I actually want to know more on it. I know radio controlled boats have been used for years for the same purpose.

They are cracking down. Mainly due to near misses with RFS Aerial operations and a few incidents involving commercial aircraft. The following is taken from https://www.rpastraining.com.au/casr-101-uav-drone-legal-or-illegal Very Small RPAs (under 2 kg) – Regulations effective 29th September 2016 The Federal Government has recently passed legislation which will allow a person to operate a very small RPA (that is, one weighing less than 2 kg) without certification, if it is being operated in standard RPA operating conditions. This will be known as an excluded aircraft. Standard RPA operating conditions means that the RPA must be operated: within visual line of sight below 400 ft AGL during the day more than 30 m away from anyone who is not directly associated with the operation (people being filmed are not considered to be directly associated with the RPA’s operation) It may NOT be operated: over a populous area within 3 nautical miles of the movement area of a controlled aerodrome in a prohibited area in a restricted area that is classified as RA3 in a restricted area that is classified as RA2 or RA1 otherwise than in accordance with regulation 101.065 over an area where a fire, police or other public safety or emergency operation is being conducted without the approval of a person in charge of the operation I also looked at the CASA website and the info above does reflect that. Also the CASA site said no to night time operations

Excellent fish! Well done on all accounts!

Thanks all, I did email them last night, asking about pick up from Guildford, inspection also at Guildford and warranty, did I have to deal with them as the supplier in the first instance? Here is the total response: 1. This is a promo sale. We have a very limited stock, that's why the discounted prices. 2. You can collect orders starting 21 Dec from the 3 locations listed on our website. 3. The outboards warranty is covered by the manufacturer's warranty. 4. 2014-2015 models. 5. Inspection also starting 21 Dec, this is just an online clearance. I don't think I will be going ahead with any purchase from them. Will be advising my father the same.

My father came across this site https://www.outboardmarine.net.au/ Anyone know or dealt with them? Whilst their website says they have been around since 2001 and the motors they supply are covered by manufacturer's warranties I just have my doubts. I am unable to find any reviews about them. Dad is looking to buy a unit from them. Cheers Swampgecko

The cranking amps for your motor is your starting point. generally the number relates to that, Cold Cranking Amps. so a Marine Pro 580 is 580CCA. If you have the space bigger is better. Personally I would not put a lead acid battery under deck. Unless you modify the deck somehow to vent the battery. All batteries vent gases when they charge, a hydrogen bomb under the deck wouldn't be my choice. I did time in a battery shop and had a battery explode in my face one day whilst charging it, not a fun time. Personally I would just up the size of your current battery.

No idea, they were my first estuary perch caught. My father, however, says they are good eating. I am currently into catch and release, apart from bream and flathead.

Ok, good points raised there, it is an old De Havilland hull 3.9m aluminum. It is registered to carry 4. Generally it is just me. with gear looking at about 150kg.