Ah Me Ting

And, there is this follow up posts which has a bit more info too: "It's just where you would be coming off the plane to negotiate the shoals at low tide a little bit further up. As there's no real channel there, boaties come at it from all angles, but because the area is shallow, some tend to stick close to the beacon thinking it may be deeper. I watched it slide by just breaking the surface a meter from my boat yesterday at dead low. (The only time you would see it) I'm gonna pretend it's red and not green from now on. God help a jet ski hitting it at the speeds they travel at in shallow water."

Crew, I know some of you, like me, are members of other forums. I just saw this information on another forum: DANGER at new Pine River beacon The second green beacon (or first on a pole if not counting the green buoy marking the rocks) going upstream from Dohles Rocks has been put on a new pole. The old steel pole has been cut off at the low water mark and is approx 2 meters away ON THE SIDE YOUR MEANT TO NAVIGATE. Even at slow speeds this little gem would slice a tinnie open like a can opener and rip a large chunk of fibreglass out of a boat. Or destroy your outboard leg. Stay at least 3 meters away from this beacon.

Decided on a Garmin Echomap Plus 65cv for our new boat. At the same price point, a Lowerance unit had the side view scan, but I decided on the Quickdraw over side view. Have since found by adjusting the angle of the beam, I can get as much 'side scan' as I'll ever use. Quickdraw works great. Slowly building my maps for the area's I fish with some great detail.

Mate, IMHO, yes, I agree that the 2500 would be too small on a 10' or 12' rod.

Shimano, 10 year warranty?

Here's the list of all of them in NSW with links to each bar crossing cam: http://www.rms.nsw.😔gov.au/maritime/using-waterways/web-cameras/index.html Handy reference for return trip home too, to check conditions before entering the 'bar crossing' if you're unsure of changing weather closer to home, especially if travelling or in another area on holidays etc. CoastalWatch have a network of cameras mounted, generally, on surf clubs. See here: https://www.coastalwatch.com/ . And, so too does Swellnet. See here: https://www.swellnet.com/ The surf cams can be handy for checking out the beach conditions too, like gutters, winds, cross shore currents, swell, etc if you're planning a beach fish. I've also used the surf cams to check options for an emergency beaching of a boat. Had to do it when a boat took on water with a crack down the keel, another time when the back up fuel was contaminated and another time when the bar was too low to cross. Sorry, that's all a "bit off topic". But, I do think there is more information available than just a weather 'app'.

Personally I wouldn't pay much attention to any forecast past a couple of days. I most definitely wouldn't bother paying for one! If you want to get a general idea of what the weather might be like, the interactive weather and wave forecast map on BOM is a good free resource. The forecast maps for the next four days published by BOM are the most accurate due to their near term prognosis, but even still, things change. Just look at that last cyclone, it was being updated hourly and anything predicted further than an hour was constantly rebutted by the eye of the storm. More sedate weather patterns are the same. It's more about general consensus and overall effect past a day or so out in any forecast period.

100% 👍 As a lifetime, life long, surfer (started in 1976), I call that, most surfers call that, 'morning sickness'. It can take an hour or more of offshore winds after sunrise (when the wind usually strengths) to clean up the surf conditions on some days.

Yeah, definite click bait. But. If only catching squid, can he really say he ended up with fish smell on his fingers? 🤔

👍 And, I'll add too, consider the likely conditions on your way back home. Swell, current and wind direction. If you're heading out NE from your home port, and the swell is from the NE but forecast wind is for a strong SE to blow up in the afternoon when you'll be heading back in, on a run out tide, well... No 'app' is going to give you this level of detail or the impact on your boat.

New incoming clean water better than recycled 100%. Just remember too that while the pump might give good flow, volume, it's your 'outflow' pipe that will set the overall rate of flow. Quickly pumping new water in at a rate faster than the outflow will see the tank fill up and overflow. The quicker you can get the outflow going 'out' (i.e bigger tubing, less bends, minimal filter restrictions) the more water you can pump 'in'.

Two very different rated rod classes there mate. Your described use would suggest the heavier stick might be overkill?

I'll be surprised if the yellow wire is anything more than the negative loop for the illumination of the switches. What brand, model is the switch panel? I suspect wiring motor and ignition direct to battery will resolve your issue IF the battery is not the issue (ie if battery flat or under sized for crank needed for motor). Would be good to see actual pictures of the wiring. Wouldn't be the first, nor last, time what someone thinks they did isn't what has actually been installed! (yes, I'm speaking from experience, unfortunately) PS: Fusing each circuit is ideal but not necessary. Just spread the load with heavy draw items like bilge pump, live bait pump or deck wash pump on different circuits. Then add low draw items like nav lights, cabin light, etc. Think about what will be used when and with what usually. I'll try and remember to take a picture of mine and post up. I have Sounder + Anchor Light, Bilge + Nav lights, Live Bait pump + cabin lights on my 3 fused circuits running off a 6 switch panel. Works fine.

I couldn't imagine a Toyota Corolla pulling a boat n trailer out of the water would cope with anything but first gear.

WOW, what an adventure and experience!

Agreed. Fishing is accessible to everyone and being outdoors is great way to have an experience upon which to build lifelong memories. I think at times we over complicate it with rods, line, rigs, bait nuances etc. Sometimes the simplest things are best. Hope more of the members of this forum post up their best memory.

While I understand and appreciate the humour, let's not take away from the safety and potential life saving, aspect to the topic at hand. While some may find and believe what I posted to be unnecessary, trust me, when you are in trouble and have undertaken some precautionary testing, you'll feel much better knowing your efforts saved your life or those of your crew. I for one don't even want to have to tell the family and friends of my crew I could have done more to save their loved ones live. Once you've been in serious situations, as the OP describes, you'll realise a bit of forward planning, testing and even a few drills are well worth the effort.

Hey crew, old thread I know, but a question for you all... How do you know if using 91 RON fuel there is no ethanol in it?

Another thought, because you know sometimes the simplest things ... What size battery, and was it fully charged?

Sounds more like a lack of appropriate type and quantity of fire extinguisher(s)?

Agreed. I missed that bit in the OP. Definitely need VHF not UHF handheld. But. Plenty of VHF handheld radios on the market!

@BilboSwaggins just remember any front wheel drive vehicle will encounter the 'front lift' on acceleration. So, as you accelerate to pull the boat n trailer out of the water and 'up' the ramp, you be 'lifting' the front "traction' wheels and can encounter wheel spin. So check the surface quality of the ramps you intend to use, and the condition of the front tyres on the vehicle. I'd say, yes, the Corolla can and will tow a boat like a 420 Dart, but not say a 420 Renegade. Check the weight of the hulls, and add a fair allowance for motor, fuel, gear, etc. The heavier the boat and load, the more 'acceleration' that will be needed to get up the boat ramp when pulling the boat and trailer out of the water, and therefore more possibility of wheel spin. Keep us updated on your boat buying process!

Once experienced, that 'heart in the throat feeling' can be a great motivator! I'm a bit of a risk assessment, look at the worse type, for planning and set up. I then like to 'test' my redundancy / contingency planning. As an example, for all you boaties out there, have you tried to: replace a spake plug on a rough ocean? What about all of them? (i.e. access, tools, no of spares) start you motor without electrics? (i.e. pull cord, cord condition, it's storage and access) refuel using a 'gerry-can' on a rough ocean? (i.e. funnel or jigger, pour angles and location, spillage) winch on your boat without your electric winch? (i.e. can you, what tools do you need, access) winch on your boat without the winch handle? (i.e. assume handle is stolen, bent, or broken) winch up your anchor without using it's electric winch? (i.e. can you, tools needed) replace a wheel bearing on the side of the road? (i.e. spare bearings, tools, rags, grease, etc.) replace a wheel (car or trailer) on soft ground? (i.e. like a beach or dirt track) hook up you boat without a jockey wheel? (i.e. assume jockey wheel collapse - how would you do it) navigate your local bar crossing at night with no electrics (i.e. no gps, no sounder, no cabin lights) anchor your boat on final approach to your bar crossing (i.e. assume engine fail) When you actually try these, the access to tools, equipment, space etc. really hit home and highlight further risks. For example, refueling on a rough ocean comes with risk of fuel spillage which brings then a fire risk. Try and do some of them with no light(s) too - like a wheel bearing, or putting on a spare tyre. You soon realise how a simple basic tool like a small torch can be invaluable!

There are quite a few VHF (as needed for marine use) on the market now. I have one that is now 7 n a bit years old. It's a Cobra Marine with a rechargeable battery. Works OK (I do an a quarterly radio check to the local VMR), and can get good coverage for my needs (off Tweed Coast). In an 'open' tinnie type boat, I find it much easier to have than installing an antenna and base unit etc. If I had a cabin boat or 'cockpit' type area, I'd think about a fixed install. My handheld is stored in my waterproof 'boating safety bag' which has other safety gear like the flares, compass, waterproof torch, paper maps, whistle, V-sheet, etc. This 'safety bag' is then stored with the life jackets, which are also near the EPIRB and Fire Extinguisher (which reminds me, I was going to get a photo up of where I had the EPIRB mounted). Note: VHF for marine use not UHF (see further comments below)

What brand / model switch panel? Can you get up some pics of the actual wiring on your boat? I suspect there is an overload when the engine is switched on and it draws power away from the other parts of the system. Does it actual set off any of the fuses? Or just 'dies' and comes good once the key is turned off the 'acc' position?