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Welster

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Posts posted by Welster

  1. 53 minutes ago, Trailcraft43 said:

    Ive just glued bilgepumps on the transom before with sikaflex.

    make sure both surfaces are clean. And scratch the bilge pump surface up a bit for good adhesion.

    tape the pump on with lots of gaffa tape while Leaving a good week to cure.

     

    also Ive used a 12v Holden HZ interior light dimmer switch to lower the voltage to overcome the tank filling to fast.

    Just turning it up or down to get the right fill to drain timing.

    but I still had a larger outlet.

    also watch out for yakka,s swimming into the drain hole and blocking the outlet.

    if your not watching or your asleep your boat can flood if u haven't got self draining decks.

    I like the dimmer switch idea to adjust voltage.   But Holden bits seriously!

    I use an outlet pipe across the top of the tank with multiple small holes to try to minimise blockages.

    There is nothing more frustrating seeing squid swimming at the back of the boat only to realise they came from the tank.

  2. 5 hours ago, flatheadluke said:

    Buy this in the 360GPH

    http://www.a shop.com.au/Product/Rule-Bilge-Pumps/124206

    and this

    http://www.a shop.com.au/Product/Bilge-Pump-Water-Scoop/224453

    sikaflex, 2 small stainless screws to attach pump to scoop, two larger marine stainless screws to attach scoop to transom then buy this 

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-25mm-x-5m-reinforced-pressure-hose_p4920243

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-17-32mm-stainless-steel-hose-clamp_p4920193

    Then you'll need three of these, one for your inlet hose and two outlets. You can attach these to your chosen tank like and esky or similiar

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/philmac-1-1-4-tank-outlet_p4814053

    Then you'll need some of the adapters to connect the outlet to the hoses. You'll also need a one way valve to stop the inlet draining the tank. Also a good idea to buy a ball valve to isolate the inlet if you won't be using the LBT.

    Good advise flathead Luke.   I used the cheaper hose on my last boat with the external pump set up and didn't use a clamp at the tank so it was easier to remove and I could use it to wash my baitboard.    The new boat with through hull set up came from Stacer with the cheap hose, I didn't like the idea it might split so I changed it for the reinforced type you suggest.  

    The outlet needs to be a bigger diameter than the inlet and maybe some flow control on the inlet side of its filling too quick.

    The last boat with an external 360gph rule pump was still going after 10 years.   The new boat with an internal Johnson 500gph pump has used three pumps in theee years.   So I have just changed the i a rule pump hoping that lasts better.

     

  3. 19 hours ago, Smasher said:

    Is it possible to get a live bait tank with water pump that is completely removable and doesnt require drilling holes? 

    I'm thinking something like this, with the pump mounted on the side of the tank, plugged into a 12V outlet or aligator clipped onto a motorbike battery.  Obviously it wouldnt run while I'm motoring, but once at my destination just throw the hoses over the side and voila.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/65L-Live-bait-tank-acrylic-lid-800-GPH-water-scoop-1-5mt-hose-/302177098539?hash=item465b289b2b:g:SYsAAOSwo4pYYK9R

     

    - or am I dreaming?

    Maybe post some pics of your boat and we might be able to suggest some options.

  4. 7 hours ago, Smasher said:

    Is it possible to get a live bait tank with water pump that is completely removable and doesnt require drilling holes? 

    I'm thinking something like this, with the pump mounted on the side of the tank, plugged into a 12V outlet or aligator clipped onto a motorbike battery.  Obviously it wouldnt run while I'm motoring, but once at my destination just throw the hoses over the side and voila.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/65L-Live-bait-tank-acrylic-lid-800-GPH-water-scoop-1-5mt-hose-/302177098539?hash=item465b289b2b:g:SYsAAOSwo4pYYK9R

     

    - or am I dreaming?

    The only holes for my last bait tank were two for the pump bracket.   The pump needs to be in the water to prime. 

  5. 39 minutes ago, sam bros said:

    Thanks for the advice 

    Yeah both are made by telwater (telwater even owns savage)

    I'm looking at a boat in the 480 size, mainly inshore And  occasionally  going outside. 

     

    New or second hand?  I am not sure what the sizes are but be aware the life jacket rules are different below 4.8m

  6. I owned a roughly 2000 model quintrex bowrider 5.4 from new with 115hp saltwater Yamaha .   A couple of years ago I switched to a 5.7 Stacer bowrider 150hp HO etec.

    The quintrex had heaps of cavitation in fast tight turns pretty annoying for water sports.   The engine would of been set up from the dealer i am not sure if it played a part but I don't think so.  Very stable boat more do than the Stacer.   It felt like it had more freeboard than the Stacer.

    The Stacer rides better can pretty much turn on a dime very impressive really.  It is quite stable but not quite as much as the quintrex.   The quintrex felt like a tub in comparison to the Stacer which feels so much sportier.  

    The Stacer responds to engine trimming more than the quintrex.   However it is more sensitive to load.  It's noticeable when I am by myself driving it.   So I think trim tabs would be worthwhile.

    If I was just fishing I'd be quite happy with the quintrex for anything else I would take the Stacer every time.  

    Be warned both are a mass produced boat without a lot of love IMHO.   They could do so many things smarter and better.  

     

  7. 6 hours ago, back cruncher said:

    Hi all...I think the 8mm would be plenty strong.how much weight is the rope actually holding when anchored ???,it's will never come close to holding the boats actual weight imho.at a wild guess I bet the anchor and rope holds less than half the boats actual weight in bad conditions.

    im sure you could find some info on this on the net.

    I know when I hook onto the plug with 50lb braid it's hard enough to break.

  8. 12 hours ago, Fab1 said:

    What's the purpose of the dick?Does it have a longer shaft for better penetration into the seabed?Tell you what,you don't want to get it snagged.Just kidding,I know what you mean.

    Good luck with your choices as Rick has given you  some good info.

    To funny it was meant to say sock.  :wacko:   I could say so much but better not.

  9. 2 hours ago, Fab1 said:

    If your anchor is pulling/dragging I've I find it's not usually the rope used.From what I've seen way to many people don't have enough chain inbetween the anchor and rode,Use to light an anchor,and most importantly don't pay out enough rods when anchoring.A good guide I use is to have an angle of 30-45deg in the line from your bow to the surface of the water.

    If those above things are wrong your anchor can and will drag.You want a nice belly in the chain to keep the pull on the anchor horizontal and set.

     The Alderney ring and buoy work well or you can make your own up with a plastic barrel etc.

    I've anchored in that much water plenty of times in the past and even now in some of the deeper parts of the estuaries and just motor over the top of the anchor pulling the line in by hand over the bow roller.How much effort it takes will be dictated by your size and strength I guess ,but the easiest way other than a winch definitely is the buoy system.

    Again I'd like to hear from others.

    Thanks Fab1.    I usually have heaps of rope out.   The current anchor has less chain than my old one and also the dick on it. Generally I don't have a problem holding bottom.  I was thinking the extra stretch and softness of nylon would be a good thing, I had always liked the idea of a painter rope with springer and figured the nylon might serve the same purpose. 

  10. 1 hour ago, rickmarlin62 said:

    hi welster stick with the silver rope and buy a float and clip..its the only way to anchor in my opinion..i have a vsea cuddy and fish by myself often  I can anchor and retrieve in 90mts of water with little effort..drive past float keep going till anchor chain comes up and hits clip.the float will bounce on the surface stop turn boat around and idle back towards float pulling in slack rope with ease..simple effortless easy..i cant imagine pulling an anchor in by hand..thats archaic and too much hard work..choose anchor type to suit bottom your dropping it on and use plenty of chain ..I put a foto on a previous thread of the reef picks I use with a breakaway rig..look up.[anchoring in deep water over reefs]...hope this helps..rick

    Thanks Rick. 

  11. Following on from the thread in the last few days about anchor rope.   I am interested to hear people's thoughts on anchoring offshore.

    I currently have 10mm silver rope and am considering changing to 10mm nylon 200m long .  I am thinking it's a little easier on the hands and has more stretch so should be less likely to pull the anchor.

    As I don't have a winch I will intend to get a retrieval ball.  

    So I am after advice on.....if Nylon rope is preferred, ball types and is anchoring in say 40-50m without a winch practical or to much effort.  

    Thinking of snapper fishing btw. 

     

     

  12. 8 minutes ago, Penguin said:

    I have never had much luck with salted pilchards over the years. IQF pillies seem to work the best for me and are a little more tougher than thawed block pillies. I used IQF for bait and frozen block pillies for berley.

     

    Cheers

    I like the IQF ones.   You can defrost a few at a time. I have never felt confident with the salted ones.

  13. One of the most common winter catches would be silver trevally.  Good fun and taste good too.  Mol pt, the drums, oil wharf, the runways.   Burley up and drift lightly weighted or unweighted baits down the trail.   If you are lucky a legal reddie will come up the trail for a look as well. 

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