Geoff
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Posts posted by Geoff
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Geoff - yeah i have seen humesy's boat down at the ramp but couldnt remember who made his.
was there a reason u wanted to fit a skin fitting rather than just clamp a hose to the drain plug?
There was no actual drain fitting to fit a hose , just a hole so decided to fit a skin fitting which could double for the overflow & drain.
The attached photo has the pipe fitted in the overflow position. At days end , the orange pipe pulls out to release the water. (Ignor the piece of clear tube in the photo)
Geoff
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I fitted one to a friends ( Humesy) boat a few months back. The quality & finish of the baitboard / bait tank is excelant.
However , there were 2 minor issues.
The black plastic cutting boards which cover the top , bow when exposed to heat of the sun. These were replaced with nylon cutting boards available from most department stores.
This particular unit had a drain hole in the rear left hand corner but it was too small to fit a skin fitting & needed to be enlarged which was not an easy job.
I sent a mail to Rod at Baitmate suggesting he use a different product for the cutting boards & supply the unit with out the hole leaving it up to the customer to cut a hole that best suited their requirement.
Attached for interest are photo's of the finished unit.
Geoff
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So who do i have to pay to have my extinguisher checked every 6 months? What a farce! I use my boat about 20 times a year and i now have to pay to have someone tell me that my F/E is working when i can plainly see the little guage that tells me it is??
I took mine to Chubb at Silverwater. They quoted me $12.00 on the phone but when I arrived it was no charge.
There is also a place at Condell Park.
If these are not convenient then perhaps check the yellow pages under fire extinguishers or fire equipment
Geoff
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Hi Geoff, does this mean that we have to have an additional light to the stern light that towers over everything else?
Rgds
Dhutchy
As I understand the rules , yes , which is a bit of a pain if the light is down the back & you want to fish at night , especially with the canopy up which would require additional stem height
I've just installed a light on top of the rochet launcher on my boat & one on top of the consol screen for Byron.
If coming off the gunnwal , the issuue is , finding ones with a long enough stem.
The other thing is , even if not planning to be out after dark , Maritime are checking lights during daylight hours not just at night
Geoff
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Alan. If your not already aware , it would be worth checking through this list to ensure all items are covered
http://www.maritime.nsw.gov.au/sbh/safetyequip_tables.html
In respect to fire extinguishers they need to be checked & a tag stamped every 6 months. If the extinguisher is older than 5 years , it's cheaper to replace it with a new one than having the unit striped down & pressure tested
Maritime are also checking nav lights , especially anchor lights. The current rules state ,
** 360 degree display. This means 360 degree above the higest point on the boat , eg canopy / bimini / cabbin etc. Not the deck or gunnal
** Light not to be less than 1 mt above the port / starboard light
** The light to display for a distance of not less than 2 miles. To acheive that , LED are recomended
Geoff
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Would it be possible to drill a small pilot hole of about 1-2mm in diametre to check how thick the floor is? I did this for my pedestal seat and the floor ended up about an inch thick so i just secured the seat base to the floor with sikaflex and some self tapping fibreglass screws with bolt heads. Strong as hell.
This would be the better way to go. Cutting & fitting plywood under the pedsetal base willl not make the bond between the base & the floor any stronger.
As an alternative , have you considered seat boxes. There are companies around that supply these or you could make them from plywood to what ever size suits & have a hinged top. They are great for storage.
Geoff
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Here is a post that may be of interest.
http://www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/index.php?showtopic=28539
Also , whilst the rule of thumb for the chain length may be about the same length as the boat the other is the amount of rope released should be around 3 times the water depth.
This applies to any anchor not just Sarca
Geoff
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There is a trailer place at Lansvale called Barnes Caravan Spares. There on the Hume highway , right hand side when heading towards Liverpool .
They would be worth a visit
Geoff
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There was a similar post a few months ago. This may be of assistance
http://www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/index.php?showtopic=45891
Geoff
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I have a Quell brand extinguisher . Rang Chubb at Silverwater , the distribuitor of the Quell brand this morning. The guy was most helpfull & appreicated the problem with 6 month testing on 1 off small extinguishers.
He advised the normal cost was $12.00 if I bring the extinguisher into their office , however , considering a new one only cost $25.00 they may be able to review the service cost.
Fortunatly for me , Chubb are only 10 min away. If other Raiders want to have their extinguishers checked have a look on the net , there may be someone in your local area.
Geoff
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Hi guys went out on the boat yesterday took it out on the water at botany came back home to flush the motor out only to find id lost the keys and i dont have spares whats are my options to fix it???
What brand of motor. Ring a dealer who sells that brand , they should be able to provide a new key.
Geoff
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"""Fire extinguisher (vessels with electric start, electric motors, gas or fuel stoves)""" straight off the MARITIME website,,,, better carry one anyway.....but dont forget the Maritime arsoles cruise around and check if the fire extinguisher had been checked or it is still in date, if it isnt you cop a fine.....
Have checked the Maritime reg's 2009 - 2010 hand book. The only reference other than that mentioned above is ,
Page 60 , "Have an approved fire extinguisher , service it regulary".
Page 71 , "Check the fire extinguisher is in good condition"
So , With no specific rules I'm not sure what they are going to check. There is no reference in the Maritime reg's that I could find relating to expiry or test dates.
Checked my extinguisher. There is no date of manufacture , expiry or when a retest is due either on the bottle or lable. The instructions advise , if the indicator is in the green section then it's OK.
There is reference to AS 1851.1 which states ,fire extinguisher need to be checked every 6 months.
At $ 24.95 for a new one , who would bother.
If Maritime did check , unless the extinguisher has been knocked about or signs of rust , ie , in good apparence how would they know it was not purchased in the past 2 - 3 months
Geoff
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If it is the head there are a few tests that may confirm ,
Connect the rabbit ears & run the motor for a few minuits
Remove the plugs & check if there is any moisture on any of the plugs
With the plugs out , crank the motor & see if water comes out
Do a compression test. The varience between each cylinder should not be more than 8lb
If no water & compression is OK then suggest the problem is else where.
In respect to your comment when on the flusher water is coming from the tell tail , this may from the hose pressure & not necessarly confirmation the water pump is working.
The water pump may have been replaced 6 months ago but if at any time the motor has been run "dry" , it only takes a few seconds the damage the pump
Geoff
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Out with the tyre irons and steel brush it is then. Might see if repco has this black sealant stuff.
The repair cost for mine was $20 plus 10 min at the tyre shop. A lot easier & about the same cost as finding then buying the sealant.
Geoff
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The boat's had a completely flat tyre for a few weeks. Before that it had a slow leak and I was just topping it up with the compressor before taking it out.
Why would it be leaking from here? Do I need to reset the bead or something? What do you think?? Any ideas on what the problem is and how to fix it!?
Cheers
Ben
Ben I had the same problem a few weeks ago. Thinking I had picked up a nail , removed the wheel & off to my local tyre store.
They checked , no nail it was leaking around the rim. They indicated this was not an uncommon problem especially for trailer wheels left standing in one spot for periods of time.
They removed the tyre , there was no rust. Wire brushed the sealing lip inside of the rim , applied a black sealent , refitted the tyre & now all is OK.
Suggest a trip to your local tyre store
Geoff
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Check that all is in working order including instruments / electronics etc. Check the trim operates properly while underway, check to see if the engine is cold before the owner puts it in the water to see how well it starts when cold. Run it both at slow speed and full throttle and listen / feel to see if the engines hesitates at all. Do some research before you go as to what revs and knots it should reach at full thottle if the the boat has the instruments check that these match up on the water.
I'll leave it at that as there are many other guys here better qualified then me to help you out.
Good luck.
Don All good points from Bleeding Green. In addition check out the stability when at rest , especially with 2 guys leaning over one side.
The other is to check the ride when heading into a decent wave chop at speed. All boats are great in calm water but it can be a different story when heading into a 15 knot plus wind
Geoff
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I observed the same thing as you about the white light Geoff at the show. In fact I was disgusted what
some companies called lights.
I spoke with several rep's about the lights being non complient. They were unaware of the reg's & the basic response , "that's how they are set up"
The concerning thing , people buy a boat in good faith assuming all is OK & ready for launching. Get to the ramp or on the water & if an inspector comes by , the owner could be fined.
Personally I would not be a happy camper & be back to the dealer very quickly.
I think Maritime need to take some responsibility for comunicating changes to the reg's. There is definatly room for improvement. Even the officers I spoke with agreed.
Geoff
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Spoke with Maritime officers at the Rosehill boat show this morning , mainly about anchor lights.
The 3 key requirements,
** 360 degree display. This means 360 degree above the higest point on the boat , eg canopy / bimini cover etc. Not the deck or gunnal
** Light not to be less than 1 mt above the port / starboard light
** The light to display for a distance of not less than 2 miles. To acheive that , LED are recomended but Maritime could not advise how an officer was going to measure the distance
It was interesting to note , from all the boats I looked at only 2 dealers complied , one of those being Huett Marine.
In respect to flares , expired flares can now be handed into any Maritime office. I was also advised that it's OK to have expired flares on board provided a set of flares with an expiry date in the future could be produced.
Not sure if that is 100% correct but did not debate the point
The show is larger than last year & with free parking & entry was a popular attraction
Geoff
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Now a few questions...
* Install more towards the front (say under the seat) or more in the middle of the boat?
* Alloy or Stainless? (am guessing alloy simply for weight)
* In floor filler or up on the side?
* Guessing baffels are the go to stop "TANK SLAP"
* Does anyone know someone that can make and have them tested accordingly?
CHeeRS
Antun
Towards the front is better from a weight aspect but from a volume aspect a location around the center of the boat would be better so it becomes a bit of a balance between weight & volume.
Stainless is better but there are a lot of boats fitted with Aluminium as Alum is lighter & the material less expensive
On the side is more convienent but difficult to know how much fuel is in the tank. In the floor allows the use of a dip stick.
Fuel gauge may be an option but not sure how to calibrate to a custom made tank
Baffles , Nice to have , nor sure if they are esential.
Talk to Gary at Serious Stainless. I understand he only has stainless available but he may be able to put you onto an Aluminium fabricator.
Huey from Huett Marine may also know someone
Geoff
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Tiger cam. See your PM's
Geoff
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i see so where can i find these inline fuel meters would any boating store have them ? also i just use the gauge as a rough estimate but if i am going to head offshore i really wanna know how much fuel is there and how much was used etc..
DGF Google "Fuel flow meters" there are lots of options. Navman appear to be popular.
Large marine outlets sell fuel gauges so give them a call
Geoff
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I have a friend in Melb who is a very keen fish'o & a commitee member of the local fishing club.
She should be able to help.
At presant on vacation & will not be home for about 2 weeks.
I will make a note & contact her in a few weeks then send you a PM
Geoff
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This post moves a bit off topic but assume it will be OK
Barry...... Byrons boat is currently at my place & in respect to his comments,
I don't have any photos of my multi purpose trip rope as my boat is not here at the moment. But for dropping the anchor anywhere along the side of my boat and tying off purposes in the bow area, if you can picture a separate length of rope permantly tied to the anchor bollard behind the electric motor -also acting as a race for another type of anchoring purpose- and then having the rope going around the side of the boat and clipped into the stern rail for permanent storage - the trip rope then becomes an extension of the anchor rope itself. I used this anchoring in cabin boats so that the the anchor could be launched and retrived from the drivers seat or the passenger seat and used also this system to hold the deep boat boat side on in estuaries when required.
I've taken some photo's this afternoon showing the rope. It normally comes over the bow roller then along the inside to prevent it flopping around when not in use.
I've moved it outside for the purpose of the photo's
To add a bit more detail to the process ,
Drop the anchor over the side , release the required amount of rope , tie a loop in the anchor rope & fit the metal clip to the loop.
Release the "lanyard " rope & some more anchor rope until the lanyard takes the strain.
The loose anchor rope between the clip & the side of the boat just needs to be lightly secured.
To retreive , motor up slowley pulling in the loose anchor rope until the clip can be released then continue to pull in the anchor.
A word of caution. Great care must be taken with boat balance , especially in small boats as there is a risk of tipping the boat over especially if the anchor is stuck & the boat is side on to a swell , chop or the wake of a passing boat.
The metal clip
Geoff
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And also where is the transom?
It's the stern , where the motor is fitted.
In respect to billfisher comment,
With fiberglass boats you have to watch out for dry rot - particular in the transom
This normally begins around the rear drain (bung) holes. Check this area carefully. If when pressing around the drain hole there is any flexing or it feels spongy walk away.
The price may sound attractive but 5.5 mt for your first boat may be a bit oversized
Geoff
"bait Mate" Bait Boards
in Boating
Posted
As Stacer560 mentioned , it is a good question & one that was taken into account when ordering the tank for Humsey's boat.
The two center rod holders were not included & the tank was tapered , being narrower at the base.
If I recall correctly there is about 1 - 2" clearence when the motor is raised.
The attached photo shows the taper
Geoff