Geoff
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Posts posted by Geoff
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LBT are normally located on or near the transom & the one most appropiate to your boat will depend on the transom , rear deck layout.
If you can post photo's of this area , both from the inside & outside would be of assistance for members to make suggestions.
Also , do you have a budget as tanks , plumbing & electrics can run into several hundred $$$$ just for parts before any labour is added.
Here is one style for consideration but there are others
Geoff
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Baz Thanks Geoff. That looks about right,a ssuming it has clears at the front there.
The front section that is rolled up in the front view of the boat is all clear plastic. If I was remaking the canopy I would have about half & half , ie, the top half would be material & the bottom half clear plastic as it can become rather hot with the sun shining through the clear plastic.
Bleeding Green
Can you tell me exactly how your canopy stays in the open position, is it with the plastic threaded fittings?
No , it with straps. The advantage being very easy & quick to erect or fold down. The disadvantage , the straps take up a bit of space compared to spreader bars
This photo shows the canopy with the front section down & the support straps on each side
Geoff
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And if anyone can point me where to go for a canopy, as opposed to a bimini, i.e. one that goes right down to the windscreen (I want to get out of the rain, not the sun), let me know, please. 4.0m Stacer runabout.
Thanks,
Baz
Baz Is this the type of setup you mean
When folded , looks like this
This is how it looks when the canopy is erected
Geoff
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Rob A multimeter may pick it up.
Place the positive multimeter probe onto the positive battery terminal & the negative from the MM onto the boat & see if there is a reading
Geoff
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Are there temporary set ups that you can put on
Yes. They are normally powered by 2 X "D" cell torch batteries. Available from most large marine outlets.
Or would the cost of a temporary set be similar to fitting permanent lights.
Permanant lights require cableing. A switch is preferable but battery clips are an option. The torch batteries units would be less expensive
I require a 360 stern light
Correct , also available with torch batteries
As for the power source for lights and motor, would I need a car battery or is it possible to run it off the outboard motor? How does it all work?
For the elect motor you will require a 12V deep cycle AGM battery , depending on the size of the motor , say 55 lb thrust , around 80 AH + a battery charger.
These are not cheap , $300 - $400.
The nav lights could be run off this battery
Geoff
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Andrew Another sucessful day on the water , well done. Perhaps we can organise another outing in the next week or so.
Just digressing for a moment , how did you go installing the extra holders to the rocket launcher.
I purchased a RL this week & plan to install it over the weekend. Depending on space I may install 1 or 2 aditional holders
PPS Geoff, I hope you like seeing your handiwork adorned with a nice fish.
Good to see it is working well
Framedtrash Note , on Andrew's tank the rod holders are at the side We dicussed the rear V's side & felt the side one's provided easier access when there is a strike & removing the rod from the holder.
Andrew may wish to comment.
Also check the tank size & position when mounted onto the rear deck. We needed to ensure there was sufficient clearence between the motor cowling & tank when the motor was in the fully raised position
Geoff
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Im just wondering if anyones had this problem before? Is there anything i can do to stop the plugs from fouling? How long till the motor is run in? Its frustrating as cant troll as much as i want to.
cheers
Cantona
It can be a problem if trolling for this period of time with a 2s. The easiest fix , when on the water , is every half hour or so take it out of gear & give the throttle a few decent rev's to clear out ant unburnt oil from the cylinders / plugs then back into gear & continue on
It may be worth a call to Craig at Huett marine. XD50 or XD100 oil may be better suited to this type of situation
Geoff
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I'm running 15" on a Yammie 70hp so would think for 150hp something larger would be required
Geoff
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No idea myself ... but according to flea bay something around $4-5k
Assuming it comes complete with all the controls , electrics & gauges , $ 4 - 5k sounds about right
If you decide to advertise , inclusion of the 3 cylinder compression readings is a good indicator of the motor condition & can be a good selling point
Geoff
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Geoff,
the motor is running sweet as, its only a year old. But i think we need to give the whole wiring a facelift as its 30 years old. The starter just clicked a few times then nothing. we then had no power at all, not even the fuel pump making its usual drone, or to the stereo, fishfinder etc. We managed to get it started by connecting a battery booster pack to the starter motor and bingo. Got the boat back to the mooring and that was that. I think the general problem is corroded connections and too many temporary joins done over the years.
The issue with the distribution board is not tied in with this, we just need more space ,(fishfinder, gps, stereo, bilge,and other stuff) we plan to add on.
Dave
Dave Yes I think your correct about the corroded connections , it may be better to start from scratch rather than to do a number of band aid jobs. This will take some time , may be a full day for someone who knows his way around.
It may include a new switch pannel however items like depth sounders , gps , radios / stereos etc should not go via the switch pannel as they have their own on /off switches.
The switch pannel should only inc lights , pumps etc so a 6 switch pannel normally covers these requirements.
Having the boat on the water could make this an expensive exersize & , as you mentioned slipage fees are not cheap. Have you considered hiring a trailer so the boat could be taken to an electrican for the work
Geoff
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Dave Could you expand on your comment,
"we have had some issues with wiring,(got stranded on saturday), as in lose connections and no more room on distribution board."
Are you saying the motor is cutting out or it won't start.
If the latter , is the motor cranking over or , is it something else.
Whilst it may be a loose connection perhaps you could explain how this interfaces with the space on the distribution board.
Geoff
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jewgaffer
PS Geoff I can't find my mobile to get your number, so at this stage I won't be able to call you about the arrangements we made to give the Webster a run in the Hawkesbury on Friday ...Anyway George happened to call me at home tonight (he was still out on Botany Bay) and said thanks for the invite and he would be quite happy to pick me up and come along and be at your place by 7am..... Geoff in case you hadn't intended to call me before Friday, give me a call at home tomorrow any time after 10am...Byron
jewgaffer
Byron That sounds fine , will be great to have George along.
Have sent you a mail with weather & tide details for Friday
Regards
Geoff
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George's smile was a bit lost in the previous pic's so lightened up the photo a bit
Also gave the double hook up plus the crab photo a bit of adjustment
Geoff
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" sixteen hours "
Geoff
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Dhutchy The power to the moter is seperate to the accessories so it is possible for one to work & not the other.
First , check the connections at the battery & battery switch to ensure the are clean & tight but it sounds like a loose connection for either the positive or negative at the terminal block.
The terminal block , normally mounted under the dash near the switch pannel , has 2 posts where the power from the battery is connected then distruibited to the switch pannel.
Check all the other connections under the dash to ensure the are tight but suspect it will be the terminal block
If these are found to be tight , check the fuses
Geoff
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Does anyone know where I can buy some striped tuna in Sydney?
Most decent size fish & seafood shops in the suburbs generally have stripies.
What area do you live.? There are 2 shops in Auburn & 2 in Bankstown Square.
In addition to stripies they have , on most occusions , Yakka , Slimies , squid & School prawns
Geoff
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Hi,
I was just going to buy standard stainless flushmounts but how do I drill the holes in the gunwhale. I know this may seem like a stupid question - I have drilled circular holes with a hole saw before but I'm sure that rodholders require an elliptical hole. Am I right? How to drill?
Baz
Baz
The angle of the plate to the tube tends to give an optical elusion & suggests an elliptical hole is required.
Provided the hole saw is slightly larger (a few mm) than the tube on the rod holder then it will fit OK
Geoff
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If you don't have a copy of the Marine Park areas in the Port then I suggest pick up a map from a tackle store as there are quite a few restricted areas.
Ths western end of Shoal Bay close to the beach is worth a try for Whiting also across the bay. I think it is called Jimmies Beach.
Slack tide around the marina breakwall but can be a bit busy with Land based anglers
There is a drop off just on the Eastern side of the island off Lemon Tree passage. Can produce flathead.
The river going up to Tea Gardens / Hawksnest for Bream & Whiting. If the fishing here is slow , there is a great resturant just past the bridge with pontoon facilities . A very plesant way to spend a few hours
Geoff
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Chris When standing next to the motor & the tilt button is pressed "up" can you hear the pump motor running but the outboard is not lifting the way you think it should?
If so the system may need fluid or to bleed the system.
If the pump motor is not running then , as others have mentioned , sounds like a relay
Either way , normally it is a dealer fix.
Geoff
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Agree with the others , at least an 80lb salt water motor ( white) plus 2 X 12V batteries in series to create 24V.
As a rough guide 2 batteries + a charger will cost around $900 + the motor which I think are in the $1500 - $2000 range (depending on size) + instalation & fitting
Weight wise , 2 batteries , approx 65kg + the motor & base , around 50kg , again , depending on the size
Your question , "Is it worthwhile" it mainly depends on the frequency of use. If used on most outings , then perhaps , yes.
If occusional or "nice to have" then maybe difficult to justify the $$$$$ outlay
Space , other than the space required on the deck for the motor & base , the area taken up by "Off the shelf" battery boxes is approx 450mm X 450mm. If a custom made box is made , the area would be slightly smaller
Geoff
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Josh
I'm running a 2003 , 70hp 2s Yamaha & average consumption is 1lt / mile ( 1.6 km).
Considering the 90 is 1140 cubic cm V's the 70 at 849 I would have at a guess consumption for the 90 to be around 1.30 lt / mile.
A lot depends on the rev's when on the plane. I normally run between 3800 - 4200 rpm. Once over 4500 they can become rather thirsty.
If you have the standard Yamaha gauges fitted there should be a trip meter that measures distance traveled.
The way to get an average usage is to fill the tank , set the trip meter to zero when leaving the ramp then At the end of the day , fill the tank , check the distance & do the calculation.
Repeat this over several trips & it should give an average usage.
Geoff
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Rob Not actually familiar with Honda but on the Yamaha there is a spring loaded arm near the ram that moves up & down as the motor is trimmed
Perhaps the Honda has a similar device as shown in the photo.
These arms sometime break but more common stick in one place. Spraying the arm with lubricant whilst moving it up & down normally frees them up
Geoff
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why not just modify this one
ive seen a post on here of some one doing just that
its just a matter of extending the pole and the wiring
would look just as good as a original one
One of the problems at presant is with the boat cover. The light , being the highest point carries a lot of weight & would be far better to have a removable stem.
Hodgey. Tks for the link. Will keep it in mind if nothing comerical turns up
Geoff
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I'm trying to find a new anchor light. It needs to removable (plugs into the base ) & has a narrow base fitting.
I've looked around , there is no shortage of lights where the stem plugs into the base. The problem is , the bases are too wide for the mounting area.
Perhaps someone has seen a brand or has one fitted to their boat that was supplied by the boat manufacture & can advise the source information.
Here is the current light & mounting space available
Tks
Geoff
Bit Of Advice For A Potential Boat
in Boating
Posted
Also , ensure the boat is "Boatcoded" . This is the sellers responsibility.
5.5mt is a heavy boat so will need something reasonable as a tow vehicle , 6 cyl or 4WD.
If you can post some photo's & the asking price it would assist members with their replies
Geoff