Geoff

Spongy If it is the diaphram (& we are not sure it is ) , I would not wait until the next service. Once they start to go it will just become worse rather quickly to the point the diaphram will fail & no fuel pumped to the carby's There is no way to fix this problem on the water & means a tow home Geoff

Spongy. Yes , in theory your correct. and after 15 minutes at cruising speed. I slow down to check the idle speed. To my surprise its all good - back to purring nicely as it should. It depend how long you you ran at idle speed , depending on the size of the crack it can take a short while for the cylinder to flood. Giving it a bit more thought it's possible that one of the plugs became temporally fouled & the run cleared it out. On the fuel side , do you have a fuel filter / water seperator fitted to the fuel line. If so has this been checked. Geoff

I have just been made aware that one of these devices will be on display at stand 347 Geoff

Tks to all for your replies & PM. There appears to be a few different products around. Here are 2 which I received via PM http://www.recoverezy.com.au/Recoverezy.wmv http://www.boatlatch.com/the%20product.htm The one in my origional post was available from the Melb marine dealer for $450.00 When checking out the show there may not be a seperate display stand (In Melb there was not) so when brousing around the boats check out the bow area. I plan to take the photo with me & ask a few dealers if they have them available Geoff

Spongy How many hours on the clock , if a few then it may be the fuel pump. The 70 has a mechnical vacume style fuel pump. It is not uncommon for the diaphram to get a hair line crack or even a small split. This allows fuel to go directly into the bottom cylinder & in essence flodding that cylinder . At idle or low revs the engin is only working on 2 cylinders efficently. At higher reves the excess fuel is used up & the motor runs smothly. The diaphram is not expensive & reasonably easy to replace Geoff

A friend has sent me a photo taken at the Melb Boat show of a drive on locking device. Has any one seen or used one of these devices or perhaps know where they are available from The one in the photo is on a twin hull boat. Not sure if they are available for mono hulls Geoff

JG I have a SP catelog with all the info. Will bring it with me on Monday Geoff

Installing a winch is on my " to do list". After doing the normal research around the web several months ago , South Pacific were the choice. Visited their showroom at Castle Hill to view the different types & the demo's on display. Chopper raises a good point , the winch is one thing , the electrics another. SP have that covered with a range of cable , switches , circuit breakers etc , ie , one stop shopping Geoff

$2000.00 inc a 2006 motor ,assuming it is in good condition, it's a good deal . The motor should have a a charge facility. I note you live in the inner west. There is a Tohatsu dealer in Newtown , give them a call. For interest , the 25 is a detuned 30. Change over is not that difficult but best done by the dealer as it involves changes to the timeing settings Geoff

I think most who have fished outside have at one time or another find the line go slack , retrive to find that all or part of the rig has dissapeared which normally indicates , the jackets have arrived. Now , you can rerig & move , hopeing the jackets don't follow or rig up & catch a few as they are rather tasty. Here is a rig I have had good sucess with & as best I can recall , not lost one yet Jackets appear to attack anything that remoatly resembles food , inc sinkers & shiny brass swivels so the trick is to remove or at least mininise that attraction. In essence , use 6" - 8" black traces which are fitted with black swivels / snap clips. As the photo's show , tie the main line to the top swivel , clip the second trace & a sinker to clip , then the hook to the bottom of the trace. Give it a go , tackle loss should be reduced to zero , or close to it Geoff

We also use the Sabiki jigs , they are normally very sucussful. However , on days when the fish are timid spray the jigs with Prawn scent , it works a treat. Normally needs to be applied every third or fourth cast. You will know when it has worn off , the fish stop biting Geoff

The second boat presents better but the first boat is a much better model , high gunnals , flaired bow , screen, etc. The second boat will be rather wet even in a small chop. Manual start motors with forward controls can be a bit of a pain. Been there , done that. Geoff

Tks to all for their posts & congratulations I've not said anything previously but last week I got about the best presant a person can get.... life I won't bore you with all the details but 12 months ago I had an opperation for bowl cancer. They fixed the bowl but unable to do anything about the actual tumour. The prediction was not looking bright 6 months of Chemo followed by a progressive recovery. Last week the surgeon removed the core tumour & most of the surrounding spread. Around 80% in total was removed which was a great result. Will be seeing the Oncoligest tomorrow for follow up treatment to address the remaining 20%. The future is looking much brighter with a much higher life expectency than the 12 month previously predicted Looking forward to a lot more socials & interaction with the Raider family Geoff

A 14' Quintrex hull of that age on its own - would bring a maximum of $600 registered $600.00 I think my friend Jewgaffer is a bit light on with $600. I think $1000 - 1250.00 would be closer to the value. Had a look around a few of the boat sales web sites , there are currently no 14' Quinnies under $3000 Sold my Quinnie a few years back , 1966 model , pre flared bow & narrow gunnals for $3500.00 , ie the model prior to the one we are dicussing. Granted it had a near new motor & other accessories which helped the price along Geoff

but what do you mean by "most motors on this model boat will be getting rather tired so walking away from this one to look at another may not make the problem go away". .. did u mean that the boat will be too heavy/big for the motor? No , the boat motor combination is OK. I was refering to the age. I think the flared nose Quinnie (the one your looking at) came out in the 70's & I suspect the motor is origional equipment. If your looking at boats of that vintage the motors , unless they have been repowered duringing their life, are now in excess of 30 years old . That's not to say the motor will have to be replaced in the near future but just , "buyer be ware" how heavy would a boat of this size be? Not sure of the exact weight but should be less than 500kg's I had the previous model Quinnie with a 25 HP motor. Towed it with a 2.0lt Toyota , no problems Geoff

Ritchie That model Quinie are good boats so provided there is no corrosion it is worth considering from that aspect alone. As fishook mentioned it looks as if a good clean up will make the boat a lot more presentable Painting , it depends on the paint selected. Using basic enamel the cost , allowing for undercoat , paint , masking tape etc the cost would be around $100 - $150.00. Other paints , like 2 pack or marine paint are more expensive. I painted my Quinnie with normal enamel & it was fine. As for the motor. Chrylser stopped making motors many years ago & parts may be hard to find. They were also not the most reliable motor around. I think you will need to be prepared to fit a new or good second hand motor , not less than 30hp , in the future. That may be of concern from a financial aspect but most motors on this model boat will be getting rather tired so walking away from this one to look at another may not make the problem go away. Offer $1200 & see what he says Geoff PS make sure the boat is Boat coded before parting with your money

Cut the calamari tube with a very sharp knife into thin rings (thats the secret) I find it easier to do this when the tube is either frozen or in a semi frozen state. If the tube is defrosted they are slipery & difficult to maintain consistant thin rings VirginOlive oil...(a good splash ). Soy sce.....2 - 3 table spoons Sesame oil.....just a drop...only for the aroma , optional Garlic , 1 clove or 1 tee spoon granuals Chili...I used the bottled chili ( Chilli Flakes "Hot" ) Most people use a quarter of a teaspoon..I use a teaspoon and then some for good measure... it will depend how hot you want it Merin.......(Japanese cooking seasoning sakie/corn syrup, alcoholic just a teaspoon..but only if you have it dont go and buy it specially) OR 1 tee spoon Balsamic Vinegar Lemon , used when serving Mix ingedients , add calamari. There has to be enough of the marinade for there to be a light film over all the calamari. Marinade for approx 15 min , stirring every 5 min or so Place a few splashes of Olive Oil preferably into a wok , however a pan will do , add around 50% of the marinade The wok needs to be very hot so the calamari cooks quickly without burning. I keep moving the calamari up the sides of the wok where it is hotest. Doesnt take very long at all. Enjoy

Should only use tinned marine wireing which is available from the larger marine outlets. Do not use wireing from a hardware store as this is generally not marine grade. In respect to the actual size , will depend on the actual load , ie the cable from the battery to the switch pannel will need to be heavier than the wireing going to the actual accessory Geoff

Stan I have the same concern , sent an E Mail to Maritime a week or so back requesting a definition. They normally reply to mails in a few days. No reply was received. Resent the mail earlier this week & still awaiting a reply. Makes you wonder if they have a definitive measure or it is at the discretion of the officer on the day Geoff

Dom Are you trying to pump water into or out of the esky or just provide airation. If the latter then most tacke stores sell small battery air pumps like the ones you see in fish tanks. The pump needs to be outside the esky with a plastic tube running in through the side or lid. The pump needs to be protected from water spray / spillage If your looking for water pumps & instalation then that's a different matter Geoff

Ritchie. It's a bit hard to tell from the pic , is the transom Aluminium or fiberglass. Geoff

Hazza Suggest you try the "search" function. Key in , Currarong. There is a fair bit of information about Currarong in previous posts Geoff

Glue is OK , silicon can also work provided it is one that is compatable to aluminium Geoff

R.B. Fitting. The item you require is called a skin fitting , there about $8.00 each & available from most boat shops. The plastic tube is electrical conduit. Unfortunatly it only comes in lengths around 4 mt long. Ask around , perhaps one of you friends has an off cut in their garage , If not I think I have a piece in the sheed The size , 20mm OD Geoff

Just registered my new Epirb , not a 5 min job. A comment at the end advised that Epirbs that are not registered then the skipper is liable for a fine so just a reminder that having an Epirb on board is not satisfactory unless it is registered. For reference , the web site is , https://www.beacons.amsa.gov.au/ Geoff