Geoff

Also , ensure the boat is "Boatcoded" . This is the sellers responsibility. 5.5mt is a heavy boat so will need something reasonable as a tow vehicle , 6 cyl or 4WD. If you can post some photo's & the asking price it would assist members with their replies Geoff

LBT are normally located on or near the transom & the one most appropiate to your boat will depend on the transom , rear deck layout. If you can post photo's of this area , both from the inside & outside would be of assistance for members to make suggestions. Also , do you have a budget as tanks , plumbing & electrics can run into several hundred $$$$ just for parts before any labour is added. Here is one style for consideration but there are others Geoff

Baz Thanks Geoff. That looks about right,a ssuming it has clears at the front there. The front section that is rolled up in the front view of the boat is all clear plastic. If I was remaking the canopy I would have about half & half , ie, the top half would be material & the bottom half clear plastic as it can become rather hot with the sun shining through the clear plastic. Bleeding Green Can you tell me exactly how your canopy stays in the open position, is it with the plastic threaded fittings? No , it with straps. The advantage being very easy & quick to erect or fold down. The disadvantage , the straps take up a bit of space compared to spreader bars This photo shows the canopy with the front section down & the support straps on each side Geoff

Baz Is this the type of setup you mean When folded , looks like this This is how it looks when the canopy is erected Geoff

Rob A multimeter may pick it up. Place the positive multimeter probe onto the positive battery terminal & the negative from the MM onto the boat & see if there is a reading Geoff

Are there temporary set ups that you can put on Yes. They are normally powered by 2 X "D" cell torch batteries. Available from most large marine outlets. Or would the cost of a temporary set be similar to fitting permanent lights. Permanant lights require cableing. A switch is preferable but battery clips are an option. The torch batteries units would be less expensive I require a 360 stern light Correct , also available with torch batteries As for the power source for lights and motor, would I need a car battery or is it possible to run it off the outboard motor? How does it all work? For the elect motor you will require a 12V deep cycle AGM battery , depending on the size of the motor , say 55 lb thrust , around 80 AH + a battery charger. These are not cheap , $300 - $400. The nav lights could be run off this battery Geoff

Andrew Another sucessful day on the water , well done. Perhaps we can organise another outing in the next week or so. Just digressing for a moment , how did you go installing the extra holders to the rocket launcher. I purchased a RL this week & plan to install it over the weekend. Depending on space I may install 1 or 2 aditional holders PPS Geoff, I hope you like seeing your handiwork adorned with a nice fish. Good to see it is working well Framedtrash Note , on Andrew's tank the rod holders are at the side We dicussed the rear V's side & felt the side one's provided easier access when there is a strike & removing the rod from the holder. Andrew may wish to comment. Also check the tank size & position when mounted onto the rear deck. We needed to ensure there was sufficient clearence between the motor cowling & tank when the motor was in the fully raised position Geoff

It can be a problem if trolling for this period of time with a 2s. The easiest fix , when on the water , is every half hour or so take it out of gear & give the throttle a few decent rev's to clear out ant unburnt oil from the cylinders / plugs then back into gear & continue on It may be worth a call to Craig at Huett marine. XD50 or XD100 oil may be better suited to this type of situation Geoff

I'm running 15" on a Yammie 70hp so would think for 150hp something larger would be required Geoff

Assuming it comes complete with all the controls , electrics & gauges , $ 4 - 5k sounds about right If you decide to advertise , inclusion of the 3 cylinder compression readings is a good indicator of the motor condition & can be a good selling point Geoff

Dave Yes I think your correct about the corroded connections , it may be better to start from scratch rather than to do a number of band aid jobs. This will take some time , may be a full day for someone who knows his way around. It may include a new switch pannel however items like depth sounders , gps , radios / stereos etc should not go via the switch pannel as they have their own on /off switches. The switch pannel should only inc lights , pumps etc so a 6 switch pannel normally covers these requirements. Having the boat on the water could make this an expensive exersize & , as you mentioned slipage fees are not cheap. Have you considered hiring a trailer so the boat could be taken to an electrican for the work Geoff

Dave Could you expand on your comment, "we have had some issues with wiring,(got stranded on saturday), as in lose connections and no more room on distribution board." Are you saying the motor is cutting out or it won't start. If the latter , is the motor cranking over or , is it something else. Whilst it may be a loose connection perhaps you could explain how this interfaces with the space on the distribution board. Geoff

Byron That sounds fine , will be great to have George along. Have sent you a mail with weather & tide details for Friday Regards Geoff

George's smile was a bit lost in the previous pic's so lightened up the photo a bit Also gave the double hook up plus the crab photo a bit of adjustment Geoff

" sixteen hours " Geoff

Dhutchy The power to the moter is seperate to the accessories so it is possible for one to work & not the other. First , check the connections at the battery & battery switch to ensure the are clean & tight but it sounds like a loose connection for either the positive or negative at the terminal block. The terminal block , normally mounted under the dash near the switch pannel , has 2 posts where the power from the battery is connected then distruibited to the switch pannel. Check all the other connections under the dash to ensure the are tight but suspect it will be the terminal block If these are found to be tight , check the fuses Geoff

Most decent size fish & seafood shops in the suburbs generally have stripies. What area do you live.? There are 2 shops in Auburn & 2 in Bankstown Square. In addition to stripies they have , on most occusions , Yakka , Slimies , squid & School prawns Geoff

Baz The angle of the plate to the tube tends to give an optical elusion & suggests an elliptical hole is required. Provided the hole saw is slightly larger (a few mm) than the tube on the rod holder then it will fit OK Geoff

If you don't have a copy of the Marine Park areas in the Port then I suggest pick up a map from a tackle store as there are quite a few restricted areas. Ths western end of Shoal Bay close to the beach is worth a try for Whiting also across the bay. I think it is called Jimmies Beach. Slack tide around the marina breakwall but can be a bit busy with Land based anglers There is a drop off just on the Eastern side of the island off Lemon Tree passage. Can produce flathead. The river going up to Tea Gardens / Hawksnest for Bream & Whiting. If the fishing here is slow , there is a great resturant just past the bridge with pontoon facilities . A very plesant way to spend a few hours Geoff

Chris When standing next to the motor & the tilt button is pressed "up" can you hear the pump motor running but the outboard is not lifting the way you think it should? If so the system may need fluid or to bleed the system. If the pump motor is not running then , as others have mentioned , sounds like a relay Either way , normally it is a dealer fix. Geoff

Agree with the others , at least an 80lb salt water motor ( white) plus 2 X 12V batteries in series to create 24V. As a rough guide 2 batteries + a charger will cost around $900 + the motor which I think are in the $1500 - $2000 range (depending on size) + instalation & fitting Weight wise , 2 batteries , approx 65kg + the motor & base , around 50kg , again , depending on the size Your question , "Is it worthwhile" it mainly depends on the frequency of use. If used on most outings , then perhaps , yes. If occusional or "nice to have" then maybe difficult to justify the $$$$$ outlay Space , other than the space required on the deck for the motor & base , the area taken up by "Off the shelf" battery boxes is approx 450mm X 450mm. If a custom made box is made , the area would be slightly smaller Geoff

Josh I'm running a 2003 , 70hp 2s Yamaha & average consumption is 1lt / mile ( 1.6 km). Considering the 90 is 1140 cubic cm V's the 70 at 849 I would have at a guess consumption for the 90 to be around 1.30 lt / mile. A lot depends on the rev's when on the plane. I normally run between 3800 - 4200 rpm. Once over 4500 they can become rather thirsty. If you have the standard Yamaha gauges fitted there should be a trip meter that measures distance traveled. The way to get an average usage is to fill the tank , set the trip meter to zero when leaving the ramp then At the end of the day , fill the tank , check the distance & do the calculation. Repeat this over several trips & it should give an average usage. Geoff

Rob Not actually familiar with Honda but on the Yamaha there is a spring loaded arm near the ram that moves up & down as the motor is trimmed Perhaps the Honda has a similar device as shown in the photo. These arms sometime break but more common stick in one place. Spraying the arm with lubricant whilst moving it up & down normally frees them up Geoff

One of the problems at presant is with the boat cover. The light , being the highest point carries a lot of weight & would be far better to have a removable stem. Hodgey. Tks for the link. Will keep it in mind if nothing comerical turns up Geoff

I'm trying to find a new anchor light. It needs to removable (plugs into the base ) & has a narrow base fitting. I've looked around , there is no shortage of lights where the stem plugs into the base. The problem is , the bases are too wide for the mounting area. Perhaps someone has seen a brand or has one fitted to their boat that was supplied by the boat manufacture & can advise the source information. Here is the current light & mounting space available Tks Geoff