Geoff

Unable to advise on the what may be happening during Easter. A lot will depend on water temp at the time. We mainly fished for bottom dewelers , not surface fish In respect to access , Little Beecroft (A) is easy to access off the bush track , the cliffs do not start for a few hundred mt south Beecroft , location B , as seen on your map there is a gully just next to it. The bush track leads to this gully then there is a narrow track down the northern side. Not a place for young children but the track down whilst narrow is OK. There are a few rocks to climb down in the last few mt's but not too difficult & not dangerous. Geoff

I'll be fishing Bermi & possibly Tathra during Easter. In respect to the Bermi estuary is pretty much a waste of time. The Bega river at the northern end of Tathra beach is worth a try. There is no bar at Bermi so trips outside should not be problem on the right day. The servo accross the road from the boat ramp near the bridge has maps of fishing spots , many are reasonably close to shore. If you see a cream Webster Twinfisher cat come & say Hi. Easy to reconise with the FR sticker Geoff

Were almost neighbours , I live in Berala Geoff

Location A is called Little Beecroft & B , Beecroft Head. Both are good fishing platforms Use the bush tracks to access these spots. Note that part of the area is a marine park , here is the map http://www.mpa.nsw.gov.au/pdf/JBMP-zoning-...uide-Part-B.pdf Beach fishing , the best spot used to be near Hamerhead. Un fotunatly this is now a restricted area (pink). From my experience , other parts of the beach are not very productive so suggest you focus on the rocks. There are several spots south of Beecroft , from memory the last few hundred meters can be very dificult so would not be rushing to fish places like location C There used to be a large , detailed map in the General Store. It is worth a visit to check it out Geoff

I'm sure all will work out OK & you will be back chasing the Jew in a few weeks. Catch you on the flip side Regards Geoff

Arrived just on 9.00 , met up with a mate & we wondered around. Sat in on the super tank show even at 10.00 is had a lot of interest with most seats taken. Had seen it before but always interested to see how the different luers opperate. Spent some time talking to the folk on the Coast Guard & Coastal patrol stands. Ended up joing the Coast guard a an associate member. Asked why is there 2 organisations . The officer outlined some of the history but as they both perform similar functions , aparently the goverment is currently considering joining the two together. No indication on timeing. Spoke with a few dealers , one of which I know quite well . He had a stand with 8 boats inside & indicated the cost was $2700.00. That's not too bad , sell one boat & most of the cost is recovered. Overall it is a regional show , mainly for trailerboats & for those shopping for a new boat in that catagory a good oportunity to see a good range under one roof , so to speak. The show was well suported by the industry but I would like to see an area alocated that focuses on electronic products. Geoff

Note , about half way down the need to have a HIN No. (Boatcode) If the boat is not already coded then it is the sellers responsibility to provide this document along with the boat & trailer rego documents Geoff

A sand anchor should only be used on sand , If used on reef there is a good chance of it locking into the rocks & unable to be retreived. For reef , use a 4 prong reef anchor , for your boat one with 1/4" prongs should do the job When anchoring the rule of thumb is release enough rope equal to 3 times the depth , ie , if 10 mt deep then release 30 mt Some may suggest the use of chain for a few meters between the rope & anchor. On big boats anchoring in very deep water it is helpfull as the chain act as a shock absorber. For your boat it is unlikely chain is necessary Wind & current can be deceiving so when you locate a suitable spot do a drift to see which way the boat drifts retrace the direction overshoot the spot , drop the anchor & in theory you should drift back to the spot . When retreiving try to avoid pulling the anchor over the side as if the anchor gets stuck & needs some effort to break it free it can drag the side under. Retreive over the bow spit Some practice & experience & it becomes rather easy Geoff

Looking at the clasifieds the price appears OK provided the motor is in good condition. A compression test is always a good indicatior , also how easy it starts. The freeboard (sides) are low so would not be too keen to take it into rough water. Juno should be OK. The photo's do not show the interior. I suspect the layout , seats etc, are more for cruising rather than fishing so this needs to be kept in mind. If going to have a look it would be handy if a mate who has a fishing boat went along to provide comments from a fishing prospective Geoff

Any Raiders going to the boat show this weekend , 14th / 15th Only on for 2 days this year but both the parking & entry is free I'll be going , plan to arrive around 9.00 Saturday hopefully get a good parking spot Geoff

Yarraone Check out this thread. It covers the current situation http://fishraider.com.au/Invision/index.ph...18&hl=epirb Geoff

I had a Tohatsu 25hp of about the same year , great motor , the only repair it needed over the years was a new diapram in the petrol pump. In expensive & easy to replace. Are you aware the 25 is a detuned 30. I understand a slight madification to the timing & the carby's & it's now a 30hp. Unless you realy know your way around outboards then it's best to get a dealer to do the mod. Geoff

Shimano have released a DVD showing their 2009 range of products. It includes a segment with Bushy making luers . Interesting insite into how luers are created & which ones end up in the Shimano range. The DVD is currently available in one of the monthly fishing mags. Not sure if I can mention the name For those interested , visit your local news agent Geoff

Pelican raises some good points , all worth keeping in mind. Sorry for my bias but love CC on a nice day but sick of a mates that is wet as all hell, conole is too far foward and breaks your back so lucky you are standing You don't fish the front that much as have anchor or drogue out. Anchoring is a breeze though. Winter mornngs are just sooooooo uncomfortable without protection so we end up looking like michelen men. No sun protection on hot days drifting or drizzle protection on overnighters. Geoff

Gary tks for your quick response. Knocked out the pin , cleaned the spline , regreased & now back together , good as new. Now I have to clean the pool before the kids arrive , rather be working on boats , more fun Geoff

Over the years the jocky wheel has rec a few dunkings in salt water & whilst I give it a wash with fresh water & keep the oil up to it the time has come to strip it down & give it a good clean. Not sure how to dismantle the unit. There is a cotter pin at the top , ( see pic) . Is is simply removing the pin & the inner shaft slides out or is there more to it than that. It's a standard AL-KO jocky wheel Would appreiciate your advice Tks Geoff

Bob From what you have described , I don't think fibre glass by it's self will fix your problem. Unless it is affixed to something like timber ( 3 ply) F/G is quite thin & perhaps not the greatest insulation material in the world. Ideally you need some sort of medium between the tank walls & the ice Have you considered poly styrene covered with thin plastic or 3ply to protect the styrene As Pel mentioned some pic's of the tank would be of assistance Geoff

I had cable stearing on my previous boat . In addition to Pelican's suggestions , one further area to check is the cable tension. I found with mine that over a period of time the cables would stretch creating slack & clunking would occur as the slack was taken up each time the wheel was turned Geoff

Thought I would post this seperatly as it may be lost in my previous Epirb post. Spoke with MSB this morning. Legisation has not yet been passed requiring all boaters , regardless of size , outside 2nm to carry an Epirb. Legisation is now being prepared with a planed implemation date of 1/4/09. There was indication there will be a short grace period after the 1/4/09 MSB will be updateing their web site in the near future with all the information There will also booklet available ( specific date unknown) listing current & new requirements. MSB are not at this time planning to do a mail out. Copies will be available from MSB offices or will be available by mail by calling MSB Geoff

There was a thread by Go-Fish pete about this new law late last year Hey Geoff can you give a link to any sites where it is written down? Pelican Tks for your post , interesting reading . I have also just read your post dated 26/5/08 , New Epirb , bulk buy. I have had a search around the web looking for legisation or advice from MSB or the Gov. where it states ALL BOATS , regardless of size , that travel outside 2nm require an Epirb along with what fines can be applied. There are numerous sites with information implying "all boats" but they could be misinterperated. The latest one dated 21/1/09. http://www.waterways.nsw.gov.au/docs/minis...news/epirb1.pdf Contrary to the the above there was also suggestion that there will be a grace period regardless if an Epirb has or has not been ordered , perhaps up to Sept 2009 but again , unable to find any information on this timing. Having said all that & assuming the new rules apply to all boats outside 2nm I need to decide which brand to purchase & the instalation position Geoff

I understand from a comment made on the radio yesterday by a MSB officer that all boats , regardless of length who travel more than 2nm off shore will be required to carry an EPIRB. The below statement indicates introduction 1/2/09. Some Gov. web sites suggest there will be a grace period between Feb & Sept 2009 so , the exact timing is a bit unclear. With the new regulations expected to be introduced by the State and Territory Marine authorities from 1 February 2009, all boats proceeding more than 2nms outside partially smooth waters (off shore ), will be required to carry an EPIRB that meets the Australian/New Zealand Standard 4280.1 that deals specifically with EPIRBs. EPIRBs are required to operate for a minimum of 48 hours and float upright when deployed in water. EPIRBs are designed to be activated and deployed in the water to operate most effectively. Perhaps Raiders have other information they would like to share on the legistion , timing & sugested models , Ie , manually activated V's water activated considering there is a considerable price difference between the two Here is the Gov. web site showing the "approved brands" http://beacons.amsa.gov.au/approved_models.asp#406epirb The other question I have is where best to mount the EPIRB. Consider these scenarios. Boat / motor have been imolibised but is uprite & still aflot. Having the EPIRB mounted up front in an easily accessable location is perhaps the logical location. Agree ?? Boat has been over turned . It is necessary to dive underneath to retreive the EPIRB. Having it upfront is perhaps now not that practical. Mounting it on the side or near the rear may be a better option , ie more easily accessable. Would be interested to hear your thoughts / comments. Geoff

Cameron Sounds like the valves in the primer bulb are sticking. This is not uncommon. The bulb is not expensive to replace , generally less than $15.00 Geoff

The brakes work well, but I find that periodically the brake calipers do not "release" the brakes. Are you saying , both sides at the same time or one side releases & the other does not. If both sides at the same time then the problem is not with the caliper but in the hydraulic system , perhaps around the master cylinder or the hose going to the splitter. Have you checked the hydrolic lines for blockages. It is not uncommon over a period of time for a blockage to occur there by preventing the oil pressure to drop . Remove the hoses & blow out with compressed air I've tried cleaning the pistons, giving them a light spray of grease or lanolin and WD40 but I still get the periodic problem. To lubricate the O ring & inside the cone use only special brake grease which is available from most automotive spare parts stores The use of any other lubricants will cause the O ring to swell up & the piston to seize. Seeing you have been using non brake grease it may be wise to replace to O rings around the pistons Geoff

Forgot to add to my previous post Pelican's comment, the wing style cav plate mounted ones are reported as making a broach worse once it has started as there is additional water pressure on top of them or they are digging in. Totally agree , wing style foils are best avoided Geoff

Yes , I can see where your coming from. From my experience it's an natural reaction to have the nose plough into the next wave as the bow has a tendancy to be facing down at the time & as it digs in & the boat slows , the trailing wave catches up & the broaching occurs. I find in these conditions it's one hand on the stearing & the other on the throttle. As the boat nears the bottom of the wave trough hit the throttle which should lift the nose sufficently to drive over the top of the next wave. The timeing & amount of throttle for this reaction is all important & can vary from wave to wave If it is lift your actually looking for then a foil like a Permatrim may not fix the problem but will certinally assist Geoff