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Battery Problem


groperman

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Gday guys, just want to ask, my battery died on the weekend :Shit: and this has happened twice in the past coupler months, however when the battery wouldnt start the engine all the other accessories still works, eg trim, depth sounder, bilge pump etc. I mean is it common for boat battery to died cause we dont use it as much as a car? Or do i have a problem here? Do you guys charge your battery every time you come home? (i decided to buy one from super cheap auto).

I had one of those portable jump starters from super cheap auto and i tried jump starting the motor. When i connected the jumpers everything still works except the trim and the motor wouldnt even tick over? so i was speechless, didnt think jump starter wouldnt work? Also it was weird that the trim was working before i put the jumpers on and after i put it on it stops working. I think the jump starter was faulty because i fully charged it.

This battery that died was a new one, so im thinking there must be some sort of device thats drawing it out but i have everything turned off? so is it best to just take the killswitch off so nothing is definitly drawing the battery out? and also charged the battery every week? Any advices would help. Cheers!

Dean

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Gday guys, just want to ask, my battery died on the weekend :Shit: and this has happened twice in the past coupler months, however when the battery wouldnt start the engine all the other accessories still works, eg trim, depth sounder, bilge pump etc. I mean is it common for boat battery to died cause we dont use it as much as a car? Or do i have a problem here? Do you guys charge your battery every time you come home? (i decided to buy one from super cheap auto).

I had one of those portable jump starters from super cheap auto and i tried jump starting the motor. When i connected the jumpers everything still works except the trim and the motor wouldnt even tick over? so i was speechless, didnt think jump starter wouldnt work? Also it was weird that the trim was working before i put the jumpers on and after i put it on it stops working. I think the jump starter was faulty because i fully charged it.

This battery that died was a new one, so im thinking there must be some sort of device thats drawing it out but i have everything turned off? so is it best to just take the killswitch off so nothing is definitly drawing the battery out? and also charged the battery every week? Any advices would help. Cheers!

Dean

Groper

Sounds like you have a dead cell/cells. That would stop the jump starter from helping due to resistance.

What motor is on the boat..particulary the year? In the meantime does it have un-screwable caps or is it a maintainence free one? If you unscrew the the caps are they black underneath?

In the meantime something could be draining the battery...have you charged it.....is it dead or just flat? Put a voltmeter on the terminals with the motor running if you can and post the reading.

Cheers

Chris

Edited by chrisg
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gday chris,

Nah the battery is just flat, i guess its a big difference between dead and flat. Ive got a mariner 125HP 2001 model on the back, i noticed when i tried jump starting it, when i turned the ignition key there was a clicking sound coming from the motor and nothing happened. Someone told me never buy flat jump starters cause apparently you cant charge them anymore?

I returned the jump starter to super cheap auto and bought a battery charger instead, so now im going to charge the battery before every trip. I just want to make sure that theres no instruments thats drawing current even though it is not on?

Cheers

Dean

P.s I wish i have a mariner workshop manual...

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gday chris,

Nah the battery is just flat, i guess its a big difference between dead and flat. Ive got a mariner 125HP 2001 model on the back, i noticed when i tried jump starting it, when i turned the ignition key there was a clicking sound coming from the motor and nothing happened. Someone told me never buy flat jump starters cause apparently you cant charge them anymore?

I returned the jump starter to super cheap auto and bought a battery charger instead, so now im going to charge the battery before every trip. I just want to make sure that theres no instruments thats drawing current even though it is not on?

Cheers

Dean

P.s I wish i have a mariner workshop manual...

If you have a battery isolator switch, check the earth. Often the installation of these isolators is really dodgy giving symptoms of a flat battery whilst accessories that draw less seem OK.

cheers, Greg

Edited by gerg
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Have you checked the charging system on your boat? To have this happen twice in such a short time is not right. If the battery is low on power , as opposed to dead flat , it wont turn the starter motor , but will run lower power stuff , like lights , trim etc. It takes a lot of power to turn over a motor !!

Having been caught like this myself , I always put my batteries on charge the night before I go out , so that even if the charging system fails , I will always have a fully charged battery for starting . You could use a hydrometer to check the electrolyte , this will give some indication of your batteries health.

Ross

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what about a voltmeter and multimeter?

You can also use those , with the engine running , check that you are actually getting a charging voltage from the alternator . Check also that every cell has the required amount of electrolyte .

Is it a marine battery , or a car battery? Marine batteries are constructed differently , and are better able to cope with the constant pounding you get when on the water .

Ross

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Hi Guys,

If anyone is interested, I have a circut I built into an Arlec 4 amp charger I got from Supercheap Auto. It was designed by GE and you connect it to a battery turn it on, and you can leave it on indefinitely ! (Even years!) The battery will be charged for when you need it. I think originally for snowmobiles etc where they are left for long periods when not in use. It was cheap to make (I think about $30 plus the charger) and I use it on motorcycle and boat batteries...if anyone wants it I'll send the circuit...

Cheers

Geoff

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Hi

Rodf and chainsaw, I have sent the circuits and some text (explains why General Electric designed it) to you...Hope you get it OK...I'm a bit to this site...there should be 2 pix...one in more detail of the cct and one with cct and text...

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.. I have built 2 of these and they work great...hope you have sucess too, and no flat batteries....if it were me, I would parallel the caravan and boat batteries, connect this device and just leave it...no worries..that's what its designed for !

Geoff

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Hi,

A 240VAC power point is a good source of power, did you want to charge batteries from something else ? If you want to charge 12V from 24V then you don't need the Arlec, just a regulator will do (cheaper)..

Let me know what you need..

Cheers

Geoff

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Guest Aussie007

when you tried to start the motor and heard the tick noise this is just the starter motor getting into position to start the motor have u checked the teminals? could just be acid blocking the power make sure the terminals are clean than cover them with grease it'll block any acid from building up and the flat starter packs are ok the battery just needs to be cycled a few times before its at its peak

also check this shop out http://www.biasboating.com.au/solarpanels.html

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HI guys,

You can buy the charger add on circuit in kit form from JayCar (Click Here)

To check your battery with a volt meter it should be approx 12.6V when not in use and with all accessories turned off. Check it after you come home (this will give the battery time to level out after charging on while running). Then check it again the following day, it shouldn't be lower then 12.6.

Under 12.0v = LOW

12.0V = 50%

12.6V = 100%

13.2V = Charging (from your outboard but I have found you need trolling revs at least)

14.5V = Max Charge

You should use a Hydrometer to check the battery fluid inside the battery to give you the state of your battery exactly. Again allow the battery to stand after charing as it will give you false readings.

To check the battery drain with a amp-meter do the following.

Turn off all accessories turn off keys etc as you would leave the boat during storage.

Remove the + (Pos) lead from the battery and place the amp-meter in series between the battery terminal and the battery lead.

You should read 0 amps, if you read Amps you have left something on or have a major short circuit, if you read milliamps you have a device (like a radio in standby) or a short circuit somewhere in the boat.

You can also have leakage current running across the top of the battery if its damp as the salt acts like a conductor. Dry the battery and keep it clean and salt free.

I don't have a battery disconnect switch but do have separate on/off switches on all of the accessories.

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Marvelous what a bit of networking can turn up. Anyone buying a charger should not be looking at the price alone. The old saying "you get what you pay for" Just make sure it has an automatic cutoff in the long run will save on batteries. Check out this old link as well that came up on Google www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/lofiversion/index.php?t2381.html

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Ok, here is my 10 cents worth.

You said that all accessories work but engine doesn't even tick.

If you had trim, then the battery is not all that bad as trim pumps do require a moderate amount of power to operate.So, lets say it is flat and not dead.

One of the raiders suggested a dead cell in your battery and thats a pretty good call- but if its new, lets look elsewhere.Or take the battery to an auto elec and have it tested.Your jump pack is shit cause when you connected it up, the remaining charge in your boat backfed to your jumppack instead of the other way around!Thats why you even lost the trim

I would suggest that :

A. Run through all wiring connections and make sure they are all shiny and clean- steel wool and sandpaper works a treat. You can go to Repco and by a $10.00 can of battery terminal protector.Its a type of waxy spray that protects terminals from corrosion etc.. (Top stuff as grease on terminals always works its way onto the seat of your boat-don't know why)

B. If you have a mate with a multi metre do-hicky, when the boat is running, check the charge at the battery.Should be between 12.5 volts and 14.5 volts.If this fails, go back to section A and repeat- or go to boat doctor as your alternator - regulator is stuffed. Remember, a charge of 12volts and down is not good!

C. If A&B is all happening, then you could have a warn brush in your starter motor which is creating a sloppy circuit.You could be losing power to earth through this intermittant fault. Again, the boat doctor would be required for this one, OR take the starter motor off and get an Auto electrician to bench test it.(Much Cheaper)

D.If all of the above fails, grab a can of wd40 and a hammer.My old 140 johnson used to come back to life if I sprayed the motor, and then belted the shitter out of it! Don't know why- but it worked!

Cheers!

Stumpy- Boat Dr extrordinaire, guidance councillor, Alchoholic and bullshit artist

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I used to have problem with flat batteries the quickest solution I came up with was a solar charger. The unit I have looks a bit like a number plate with a build in bvolyage regulator and cut off switch. I connect it through a cigarette lighter socket and let it keepm the batteries fully charged with green power.

Cheers

Kingpig

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