Omally Posted December 28, 2017 Author Share Posted December 28, 2017 11 hours ago, Bjc said: What's the best way like how to measure your axle if it's round as I don't have callipers and like between 39 and 40 mm not much in it mmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 (edited) OK guys got my hubs off bearings seem OK with no play so I'll keep em as spares to chuck in the truck... The brake pads are rat st%t one of the the actual brake pad bit fell off lol ummm the hubs have surface rust is it OK to clean them up with a wire brush? Umm the small bearing had hrb lm 12749 and the large one l68149 and China written on it lol... Now to locate brake pads ? Edited December 29, 2017 by Omally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 Hi guys so I got my new timken bearings they are the same part number as my old ones... I think I know the answer to this but do you have to change the cups to if they are still good and unmarked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raging Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Just now, Omally said: Hi guys so I got my new timken bearings they are the same part number as my old ones... I think I know the answer to this but do you have to change the cups to if they are still good and unmarked? Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Just saw your post.For future reference an easy way to check the diameter of something round is with a G clamp,simply do it up snug around the axle in your case and slid it off then measure the distance between it's jaws with a tape measure/rule.If keeping your old bearings as spares don't mix bearings and races from either side.Bearings and races wear with each other and must be kept as a unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 29 minutes ago, Fab1 said: Just saw your post.For future reference an easy way to check the diameter of something round is with a G clamp,simply do it up snug around the axle in your case and slid it off then measure the distance between it's jaws with a tape measure/rule.If keeping your old bearings as spares don't mix bearings and races from either side.Bearings and races wear with each other and must be kept as a unit. Yep awesome thanks heaps mate I just finished didn't take long at all... I ended up changing the races to luckily lol... Happy as 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Good stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozza_b Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 So im going to throw my 10 years of fitting trade experience here in regards to bearings, to be honest i think its a bit of a myth. I have never heard of people naming specific brand names to do with bearings unless its for incredibly expensive and precise pieces of equipment, im talking about stuff worth hundreds of thousands of dollars.If you look after your bearings strip, clean inspect and re-pack them on a yearly basis i cant see why they would ever cause you issues. A bearing that has begun to fail ie loosing chrome of its cup etc will run for ages with good lube before it fails completely but hey if paying a bit extra for bearings gives you a bit of extra piece of mind to do with your trailer why the hell not, just my 2 cents though. And yes always change the cup with the bearing, even if you cant see a issue bearing will cause some wear etc so old bearing on new cups could cause all sorts of problems. Glad you got it all sorted out though mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 2 hours ago, rozza_b said: So im going to throw my 10 years of fitting trade experience here in regards to bearings, to be honest i think its a bit of a myth. I have never heard of people naming specific brand names to do with bearings unless its for incredibly expensive and precise pieces of equipment, im talking about stuff worth hundreds of thousands of dollars.If you look after your bearings strip, clean inspect and re-pack them on a yearly basis i cant see why they would ever cause you issues. A bearing that has begun to fail ie loosing chrome of its cup etc will run for ages with good lube before it fails completely but hey if paying a bit extra for bearings gives you a bit of extra piece of mind to do with your trailer why the hell not, just my 2 cents though. And yes always change the cup with the bearing, even if you cant see a issue bearing will cause some wear etc so old bearing on new cups could cause all sorts of problems. Glad you got it all sorted out though mate Awesome yeah thanks heaps guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffb5.8 Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Same thing happened with my brake pads with the lining falling off the backing , went to super cheap and bought the stainless steel pads for $50, hope they last longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 Yeah but i can't imagine them using so much like because they are not like constantly pressed up against the hub.... Did your hubs rust or? Thinking about disconnecting the brakes as they are only used when stationary never really liked em tell ya the truth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raging Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 1 minute ago, Omally said: Yeah but i can't imagine them using so much like because they are not like constantly pressed up against the hub.... Did your hubs rust or? Thinking about disconnecting the brakes as they are only used when stationary never really liked em tell ya the truth? Post pic of your trailer hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 1 hour ago, raging said: Post pic of your trailer hitch Yep cool will in the morning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 It's exact same as this... Has that dicky bit of metal you have to flip back so you can reverse with out the brakes locking up.... Really don't like the whole brakes thing I'd rather a rock lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 2 hours ago, Omally said: Yeah but i can't imagine them using so much like because they are not like constantly pressed up against the hub.... Did your hubs rust or? Thinking about disconnecting the brakes as they are only used when stationary never really liked em tell ya the truth? The brakes if they are adjusted correctly work every single time you apply the foot brake in your car and are extremely helpful at slowing your rig when going down grades and holding your boat when stationary.You have a braked trailer and braked trailers with disconnected brakes are illegal.Regular maintenance on the brakes is the key. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 (edited) Arr OK I thought it was only for when it was stationary because they weren't electric OK... Seems like I better be going and get new hubs then.. Thanks guys First trailer I've had like this so am I spose to be towing with that flappy bit up and when reversing put it down and how does it brake when driving?.. And what's the best way to adjust the brakes so they just don't lock up... Makes sense now I was wondering if it was only for the handbrake how would the rotors stay clean... I get it now Edited December 29, 2017 by Omally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zmk1962 Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 They are called mechanical over-ride brakes. The tow ball coupling is on a spring loaded piston. When you apply the car brakes...the trailer keeps pushing forward toward the car, the piston is pushed in and drives levers that pull on cables that activate the callipers to apply brake pressure. When the trailer has slowed down or you stop the spring pushes the piston out and releases the brakes. The flappy bit stops the piston being pushed back when you reverse - hence stops the brakes being applied. My advice....lubricate everything. Spray inside the tow ball coupling, inside the piston etc... keep that well oiled. Then spray each of your brake callipers, all the joints and shafts. Brakes should move freely to engage and disengage. Problems arise when they get stuck. You can spray the metal backing of your brake pads to keep them rust free... BUT do not spray the brake pad material as it will break down and fall apart. re: Adjusting the brakes. Once you have freed up all the rusty bits and have them moving freely, you will be able to see how much movement you have in the piston and calliper levers. Adjust the cable length so that the calliper levers are disengaged when piston is out (normal driving mode) and engaged when the piston is pushed back. I have not run mechanical over-ride brakes since 2001 so apologies I have forgotten the rule of thumb as to how far your piston pushes back - perhaps you can google the manufacturer for their recommended settings. BTW, once you have it all set up, remember to retighten the cables after a few trips as new cables will have some initial stretch. Cheers Zoran PS - I have changed brake pads 3 times in 16 years... so if adjusted correctly and well maintained then you will get lots of life out of them. PPS - I find it easiest to do the lubrication maintenance just after I have launched the boat and parked the trailer. It takes less then 2min to run around the trailer with a can of INOX, LANOX or Silicon Spray and hit all the moving calliper parts. If you do your trailer springs at the same time they will last a loooooong time too...(eg. I am running original springs from 2001 trailer build). Welcome to boat trailers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 Awesome mate yeah everything is cleaned and lubricated moving freely... Just gotta get new hubs and I'm golden and adjust the brakes properly... Only thing I was looking at ebay seen a good set of galvanised ones but a review said they are out of balance wouldn't they all be like that or could a tyre shop balance em or is it just that guy lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 5 hours ago, Omally said: Awesome mate yeah everything is cleaned and lubricated moving freely... Just gotta get new hubs and I'm golden and adjust the brakes properly... Only thing I was looking at ebay seen a good set of galvanised ones but a review said they are out of balance wouldn't they all be like that or could a tyre shop balance em or is it just that guy lol Zoran gave you some valuable info there.Iv'e bought galvanised hubs a few times over the years for several applications and non were out of balance.What is wrong with yours?Hubs have a minimum disc thickness stamped on them and must be replaced when this figure is reached.If your running standard steel hubs and they are rusty I'd Ricard them and buy galvanised.If they're not too rusty and have plenty of disk thickness left you could leave them in services bit more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 (edited) Nah really good info learning fast I got it now and tracked down manufactures adjusting etc... Yeah mine weren't galvanised and they are rat sh*t rusted so I'm gonna get some trojan galvanised ones least they have some sort of branding.. Yeah I've never heard of them being unbalanced either but just thought I'd ask... All good guys gonna head down tomorrow and get em.. I'll let yas know how it goes.... Cheers.... Edited December 30, 2017 by Omally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffb5.8 Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Your hubs will always have some rust, if it’s thick scaly rust then a change might be needed, if it’s just surface rust then a quick clean will be fine, once you use the brakes while towing the pads will clean the disc in about 5secs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 Yeah Jeff it's scaly I did use the bush on the grinder it's smoother but yeah making to much noise like grinding... I'll get some gal ones tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 Lol gonna wait a couple of days and get them off ebay like 50 bucks more expensive at supacheap.... Can't be that bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omally Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 (edited) Just wanted to let yous guys know my new hubs arrived all back together and working like it should and braking like it should... And for the brake settings it's 8 mm from the activation plate to the back of the bolt on the hitch if it's a al-ko 50 mm override hitch with leaf springs... Cheers thanks heaps Edited January 9, 2018 by Omally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zmk1962 Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Great news ! Enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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