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braid(again)


redfish71

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sorry to annoy you people with more braid questions, but i believe i found the cause of my knot problem,after it happening again i looked closely at the knot i had tied to join the braid to the leader and as i was casting the braid was catching the tag on the knot, so i will have to try and find a way to trim the tags better but its quite hard with scissors.

just another quick question , im using 15lb braid so do you match the leader to the braid you are using, like 15lb braid = 15lb leader or can you use lighter leaders on heavy braid say 10lb leader on 15lb braid? . 

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I’m really no expert but I’ve always been told to use lighter leader than main braid line so if anything is to break it’s the few feet of leader and not the main braid line. 

As for joining try using the double uni knot. 

Others more experienced may know more than me.

good luck

 

Edited by shakey55
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what knot are you using ?

In regards to the leader question it shouldn't matter what size leader or main line your using i commonly run heavy leaders on lighter main lines when fishing for kings etc and lighter leaders when fishing in close 

In all honesty this sounds like a fault with the knot, just my 2 cents i could be wrong

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Hi Redfish,

Short answer is shorten your leader so the knot does not pass through any of the guides. Now for the longer response:

How long a leader are you using? When I started fishing with braid over a decade ago the general consensus was two rod lengths of leader. Being an engineer and having a tendency to overthink things I spent a lot of time working out what and why something worked or didn't work. My leaders on most of my gear are sized so that the joiner knot does not pass through the guides coming or going - that is, I usually have 60cm to 1m of leader.

The reasons I use a leader rather than tying the braid to the terminal tackle:

  • shock absorbtion (mono has more stretch than braid) - the rod tip also helps with this,
  • lb for lb (not diameter for diameter) I believe fluoro or mono has better chafe resistance than braid
  • when changing lures frequently I waste line and leader is cheaper than braid

None of the three reasons above really justify two rod lengths of leader. The other reason for not using two rod lengths of leader is that I fish some snaggy areas and unless using the FG knot if I snag up it will usually break at the joiner knot. I can cope with losing say 1m of fluoro but it seems stupid to lose 4m (two rod lengths) of fluoro every time I get properly snagged.

My usual rule with leader is that it is 50% or 100% more than my main line. 10 lb main = 15lb or 20lb leader. Two exceptions to this might be if you are fishing for easily spooked fish or as one of the other Raiders mentioned recently if you are chasing really big fish which you may not be able to stop you want the line to break near the terminal tackle so you don't lose 300m of braid.

I met a guy once who was of the two rod lengths persuasion and the knot used to jam up in the bail arm so he took a file to the bail arm for more clearance. I cringed.

Regards,

Derek

Edited by DerekD
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As above, learn to tie FG knot if not doing so.

Other thing to add for the tag end if you cant cut it too close. Cut the tag with around 2-3mm off the end. And then use a lighter (probably best to use the jet lighters) to melt the tag end down. This will do two things, 1. get your tag end lower, 2. create an anchor so it does slip through the guides. One thing too also, the melted leader will form a mushroom shape, dont let that shape get too big. All depends on thickness of leader, once it gets a bit too thick it will bump onto your guides.

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Although it's more complex than most would like, this is the way I set-up when fishing ANSA Comps whether I am using a lighter or heavier trace than braid.  Don't forget braid is a lot thinner for given bs.

I tie a 20 to 30 turn Bimini Twist in braid as this is a 100% strength knot to create aprox 6-8 inch double.  Then join doubled line with trace using a double uni knot.  This gives a different knot combo which should eliminate your problem unless braid itself is faulty.

If tying on a heavier trace than braid, there is no argument that an FG knot is the way to go rather than the above and I have recently switched to this method.  It is the thinnest and strongest leader/braid connection which runs smoothly through your runners and once you use it you will never go back. 

There are plenty of tutorials on both these knots on the internet.

Ron

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41 minutes ago, campr said:

Although it's more complex than most would like, this is the way I set-up when fishing ANSA Comps whether I am using a lighter or heavier trace than braid.  Don't forget braid is a lot thinner for given bs.

I tie a 20 to 30 turn Bimini Twist in braid as this is a 100% strength knot to create aprox 6-8 inch double.  Then join doubled line with trace using a double uni knot.  This gives a different knot combo which should eliminate your problem unless braid itself is faulty.

If tying on a heavier trace than braid, there is no argument that an FG knot is the way to go rather than the above and I have recently switched to this method.  It is the thinnest and strongest leader/braid connection which runs smoothly through your runners and once you use it you will never go back. 

There are plenty of tutorials on both these knots on the internet.

Ron

Ron,

I do the same except I tie my double with a plait as I haven’t mastered the Bimini twist yet (I should). I haven’t had a problem with the double uni knot but I am going to try the FG... I’ve even bought the FG Wizz to help.

To fish ANSA line class, do you tie double in the braid, then double uni/FG to your length of breakaway line, than same knot again to your leader?

Thanks,

Baz

Edited by Berleyguts
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Hi Baz.   I have tied a double when using light braid like 2-4lb but usually just tie single braid with double uni to doubled breakaway.  I don't use a double in leader and have never tried to tie an FG with doubled braid.   Hope to see you soon   Ron

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9 minutes ago, campr said:

Hi Baz.   I have tied a double when using light braid like 2-4lb but usually just tie single braid with double uni to doubled breakaway.  I don't use a double in leader and have never tried to tie an FG with doubled braid.   Hope to see you soon   Ron

Thanks Ron. I assume you mean you just double the tag end of the breakaway?

I wanted to make the club Swansea outing but was actually in Sydney for my mother-in-law’s 80th. Don’t know if I’ll get to any other club outings or ANSA comps but if they revive the Port Stephens weekend, I’m there with bells on! ?

Edited by Berleyguts
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I use braid mainline and fluoro leader. I generally match them or use a heavier leader. I tie the FG knot and use about two rod lengths of leader. Runs through very smoothly. 

As for losing line or leader on snags, if the ground is that bad I tie the lead on a "rotten link" at the end. In other words, a bit of mono about half the strength of my main line. That's the only but I lose. 

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1 hour ago, rickmarlin62 said:

bit hard to use a breakaway with lures...rick

Why, Rick? Because of the extra length of breakaway and leader, so risk of knots catching in the guides? I guess that could be an issue. I run at least a 50cm (ANSA minimum length) breakaway between my braid and my leader, using double uni knots and haven’t had any real issues yet. Although I am going to try the FG knot.

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25 minutes ago, rickmarlin62 said:

Nah baz wot i meant was a breaksway for sinker  if you use a piece of line half the strength of your trace as james stated thats fine  i was havin a dig at james cause the thread pertains to fg knots  traces  for lure casting  not sinker n trace

Oh, yes, I see now!

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We are getting a bit off topic now talking about sacrificial ends for when you get snagged, but here is my idea.  If using sinker on bottom of rig such as a pasternoster rig and your sinker is getting snagged all the time use the most misunderstood rig of all time the drop-shot rig.

You leave the tag end for the sinker as is with no knot.  You then slide on a ball sinker of required size and the hold in place with a tightly clamped split shot.  If sinker snags you apply a steady pull and split shot will slide off end and drop your sinker.  your rig remains intact and you just put on another sinker.

Ron

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