First rod and reel

[Noob-Fisho]

Hi everyone i'm looking to buy my first rod and reel. I don't know exactly what I want to catch I just want to fish with lures and soft plastics around Sydney. I'm guessing I should start with a light setup as I don't have access to a boat? Here is what I was thinking...

Reel: 2500-3000 not sure what brand
Rod: TD HYPER 702ULXS (7", 1-2kg line, 1-5g Castweight)    or     TD HYPER 702LXS (7", 1.5-3kg line, 2-10g Castweight)

Tell me what you guys think, any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

[slothparade]

Depends on budget. 

Personally I'd be going the second rod as it gives a little more versatility (I have a rod that has a vast weight of like 0.25 ounce, a bit limiting on what I can throw), with TD black or a stradic and 8lbs line. To 6 to 8 fluro leader. Maybe look at a 1000 or a 2000 to 2500 size reel 

If your not looking to spend to much or this is your first setup, look at the dawia revros combo (absolutely feel in love the first time I used it) or a sienna quickfire combo. Both of those won't brake the bank. 

I quite like the sugar glider in the ghost prawn or Banna prawn colour. Or zman motor oil or midnight oil 2.5 grub on a 1/16 ounce size 1 hook jighead. Or this eco gear prawn vibe thing, can never rember the name, great little lure. 

Hope this helps 

[Renegade460]

I'm a fan of the Shimano Raider rods to the point that I have 3 of them all basically the same. The 1kg to 4kg Raiders will land some good size fish as an example biggest flathead I've landed on one was 76cm. Matched to a Sedona 2500 and running 6lb braid with an 8lb leader. The 2500 reel gives you plenty of line to play with. Cost of these combo's is around $250 and will last you a long time if looked after.

[Little_Flatty]

2 hours ago, Noob-Fisho said:

Hi everyone i'm looking to buy my first rod and reel. I don't know exactly what I want to catch I just want to fish with lures and soft plastics around Sydney. I'm guessing I should start with a light setup as I don't have access to a boat? Here is what I was thinking...

Reel: 2500-3000 not sure what brand
Rod: TD HYPER 702ULXS (7", 1-2kg line, 1-5g Castweight)    or     TD HYPER 702LXS (7", 1.5-3kg line, 2-10g Castweight)

Tell me what you guys think, any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

My take on your suggested outfits is that they are a touch on the light side for a first outfit, especially if you don’t yet know what you are chasing.

It is realistic goal to start out target bream/flathead with lures. For these, I would advise upping the gear rating to a 2-4kg outfit, spooling the reel with 6lb braid and using 8lb fluorocarbon as a leader (if you want, you can keep 6, 10 and 12lb on hand as well, but 8 is a good start).

It seems like you have a bit of budget, so if you can stretch to @Renegade460’s suggestion, that wouldn’t be a bad start. I’ve just fished the whole summer with almost the same outfit (bream raider 762 and a Daiwa exceler 2000), and got some quality fish on it. While we are there, the Atomic Arrowz and ABU Veritas rods are also known good performers.

More reasonably priced are the various Shimano Sienna outfits in the 2-4kg range (note the 2-4kg is critical). They can be had from about $100, maybe a bit cheaper if you shop around. Again, put 6lb braid on with an 8lb leader. I’ve had a couple of beginner friends buy them and they seem to be perfectly good for most lure fishing.

by the way. Looking forward to seeing how you progress. Let us know if you need anything more.

[Larkin]

I too have the shimano bream raider rods x3 of them. They have a great action for Soft Plastics and also great for squidding. I’ve caught 60cm+ Aussie salmon on these too.

I pair all of mine with shimano 2500 stradic ci4 reels. 
had cheaper reels on them before, but they eventually seized up so replaced with the stradics - although I fish off a ski, so all my reels get water spray.

[bluefin]

Ford V holden again. 1 to 2 kilo is a specialist field. I love it. But for fun, not so much if I want a feed. You need experience at catching fish that will take line easily!  I taught my Grandkids on 1 to 3 Kg With a lot of guidance. Another line class where you need not to care if you loose a few fish. 2 to 4 Kilo gives you a bit more room for error.

For a beginner my choice is  2 to 6 kg   4 to 14 gram.  10 lb Braid  then vary your leader from 4 lb to 16 lb   Finesse bream to Jew or big Flathead.

If you like this style of fishing Buy a second more specialised outfit My choice,  a 1 to 3 kg !

I have 2 Gen Black 2 to6 Weasels, A 1 to 2 , and a newer 1 to3 kg Drunk Monkey. Plus other 2 to 5 kilo and 2 to 4 kilo rods.

My 1 to 2 kg has 3 lb fluro on it for fun. I expect to loose fish. But the fight is unreal !

[DerekD]

Hi Noob,

I think 1-3kg is a little too light as a starting point. Suggest you look at a 2-4kg which will still be fun to fight the fish on but have enough backbone to land the larger bread and butter species. I also think the lure rating is a little too light to start with. Consider 2-12gram region. Halco twisties are a great lure to have in your kit and the 10gram is a great match to the baitfish we see in summer when the pelagics get active.

Coincidentally I've been working on an article on and off for several months to help people like yourself with their first lure outfit. Still got a fair bit more writing (it grows every time I think about it) and several photos and videos to add in. I'll copy and past some of what I've done so far in case it helps you:

Hi All,

 

So you want to get into lure fishing as you have heard it is a great way to catch fish or the lures in the shop look cool or that is what your mates are getting into, etc. You buy some lures and start using it on your existing gear and realise it seems harder than it looks. There is a point at which you start to get despondent as you are not catching fish and your loved ones are starting to joke about it. Obviously lures don’t worked as advertised. I come across a variation of this scenario several times a year. When I break down the “why” the biggest factor and easiest to fix is usually having the right gear. This is a subjective article in that what works for me may not suit you but there is over 15 years of learning, aha moments and teaching others behind what I’ve put together. What I am trying to do is give you enough information to help you make an informed decision based on your requirements with the final choices being up to you. Like most things in life there is a learning curve and I hope this article will shorten yours by several years. This is intended to apply to spinning outfits.

If you told me I could only fish one class of outfit for the rest of my life it would be the light outfits in the 1-4kg range. My preference is the light (say 2-4kg) but the following will also apply to the ultralight (say 1-3kg) gear. My first fish on a soft plastic was on a soft fibreglass tip Shimano rod in the 2-4kg range with 8lb mono off a boat moored at Balmoral beach in the early 2000s. My friend introduced me to a white grub on small jig which I spent a little time working through the water column before hooking up. The fight took a little bit longer than it would these days but I really didn’t want to lose it. After a cautious fight up came a beautiful (and legal from memory) silver trevally. That experience changed my fishing world dramatically in several ways and exponentially revitalised my passion for fishing. The reel was a bit clunky (no infinite anti-reverse) and I realised that the line and rod felt too spongy to properly work the lures so I made some gear upgrades. After a couple of false starts I kind of hit the jackpot with the set up I ended up with and then fished for probably a decade. The rod was a 1st generation Shimano 2 piece (I started with a 1 piece and that was one of the false starts) Raider series Bream Finesse graphite 7 foot 6 inches long rod in a 2-4kg and 3-12 gram lure rating. I still own it but I haven’t used it for a couple of years. The reel (I had a false start with another brand) I bought was a Shimano Symetre 1500 (I preferred the handle over the 2500). The best value braid back then for me was the Berkley Fireline in Crystal (white) in 125 yard lengths. The backing was 8lb mono. The recommended joiner knot according to Berkley was the uni to uni. I still rate that outfit as a great starting point depending on your budget.

 

Before I go into my usual excessive detail I want to give you some things to think about as to “why” you should consider fishing lighter outfits (especially with lures) as a starting point. A lot of what I teach people will scale upwards into heavier outfits.

 

Consider the legal size of most bread and butter species, bream (25cm), snapper (30cm), flathead (36cm for the dusky), tailor (30cm), trevally (silver 30cm), whiting (27cm), luderick (27cm), etc. In the legal size most of these would weigh about 1kg max. Yes they can grow bigger but how many of these would you actually catch over say 2kg. Fishing with a 10kg outfit takes a bit of the fun out of it as you can winch a fish in rather than play it (not really giving the fish a sporting chance either). My theory is that people buy the heavier gear because it was on special or just in case they hook that 1 in a 1,000 fish but forget about the 999 fish they will more likely be hooking up.

The follow on from that point is that with the finesse gear I expect to get more hook ups. Yes, I might lose the odd fish but if I am getting three times the hook up rate of someone using far heavier gear then I am still ahead overall.

I find I am never bored. I’m focussed on the cast. Working the lure. Thinking about the next cast. Feeling for bites. Thinking about how I can change things up and what to try next. I even get a lot of joy out of seeing the water mist at the reel as I rip out a good cast and then watch the braid slowly float down to the surface of the water on a wind still day.

The quality of fish has gone up and at times the quantity too. Think about what happens if you throw a piece of bread in the water. Usually it is the little fish that race in first. The larger fish haven’t gotten that way by being stupid or at least trusting their instincts. I still get smaller fish but it is the bigger fish that are more likely to engulf that lure if you can convince them they want it.

It is a really versatile outfit. I can be working the bottom for flathead and then the mid to upper water column for pelagics. I can throw on a metal slice (e.g. Halco twisty) to cover some impressive distances when fish are feeding on the surface on the small silver baitfish. I can go freshwater and use a popper or celta spinner for bass. Use hardbodies such as Tassie Devils or Rapala CD7s for trout. Use a squid jig to catch bait or a feed of salt and pepper calamari. Put on a MMD Splash prawn or similar to chase bream along the oyster encrusted rock walls inside Sydney. I can even use bait on the same outfit to chase carp on corn or whiting on the flats with yabbies.

I can head out pretty well anytime for a fish without a lot of pre-planning. Have an hour to spare and driving past some likely looking water. Grab the rod out of the back of the car, put on the reel and the lure and then start fishing.

With lures I don’t have to clean the smell or mess of prawns after a fishing session. At worst I have to clean some of the scale type glitter off my fingers or face (otherwise I look like I’ve been attacked by someone with fairy dust). A packet of lures and jig heads will generally give you more bang for buck than bait which might only be used for a single session before being dumped.

It is a bit more satisfying to catch fish as you are fooling them into taking your lure. As a bonus there is some poetic justice in there as the fish or squid picks on something smaller than itself to find something bigger than itself on the other end of the line.

If this of interest to you then please read on.

Disclaimer: I am a huge Shimano fan for several reasons. I like the gear as I think it is well designed and made. I have had a lot of wonderful memories using their gear. I used to work near their offices and they have helped me with a number of issues (services, replacing broken rod tip, spare spools, upgrades) and because of their after sales support I’ve had no hesitation in recommending their equipment to others. I do use other brands. There is so much competition out there that if you don’t make a competitive product (build quality or price) you risk falling by the wayside. I am not sponsored by Shimano but I’ll often mention their gear because it is a way of setting a minimum bar for comparison and I also don’t have the time or the funding to test every product out there. As you are the one going to be using it take the time to look at other brands. I don’t see an issue if you buy something just because the colour rocks if it meets my other criteria.

 

The rod at a glance: Graphite all the way. Seven-ish foot. 8 guides minimum. Short butt (add measurement here). 2 piece recommended over 1 piece for travel. 2-4kg is a good overall line rating for bread and butter species. Rated for 3-12gram lures.

Now in more detail:

Graphite over fibreglass due to the reduced weight and fast response. You are creating the movement in the lures and I find the stiffness of the graphite rods means every twitch I send down to the lure is not dampened by the rod. Stay away from the rods with a fibreglass tip for this kind of fishing.

There are several downsides to graphite rods but this isn’t an issue as long as you are aware of them and factor them into your fishing.

Like for like they are a bit more expensive than their fibreglass cousins but due to improved manufacturing the price difference is getting smaller and smaller.

Graphite conducts electricity. Keep away from power cables and thunderstorms.

Graphite bruises. If it is going to be a boat rod and banging up against the gunnels or other metal surfaces in time the points of impacts will develop minor cracking which will likely bite you when fighting a fish sometime in the future. People think the rod is faulty when it breaks due to previous poor handling.

It is not as robust as a fibreglass rod. If you have ever seen the classic Australian movie “The Castle” there is a scene where they bend over a Shakespeare Ugly Stick rod on itself. You don’t do that with a graphite rod and you don’t need to either. It is referred to as high sticking when fighting a fish and it is a bad habit.

Rod tip speed usually translates into lure speed and added casting distance. All other things being equal I expect to cast further with a 7 foot rod over a 5 foot rod. My rods are generally in the 7 foot (213cm) to 7 foot 6 inches (229cm). You can go longer but these are often specialist rods and become a little awkward to handle.

To ensure the line loads up evenly along the rod blank look for 1 guide per foot of rod length plus 1. So a 6 foot rod should have 7 guides. A 7 foot rod should have 8 guides.

2 piece rod versus 1 piece. When I started I bought the 1 piece Finesse Raider 761 based on the advice from a friend rather than the advice from the guy in the local tackleshop who said I wouldn’t notice the difference. 1 piece is a pain to transport and store. I  bought the same rod (762) in 2 piece asap after I found it for a good price. The 1 piece has lived in the garage ever since. The problem with the two pieces is that after an extended casting session they can sometimes separate and you will see the top of the rod flying off.

You can also get 3 or 4 piece traveller rods if you need something even easier to transport. They will fit in your suitcase on say a business trip or with your gear when hiking.

The reason I like a short butt on my rods is that the longer ones bump against the meaty part of my forearm when working the lure rod tip down with the grip I prefer. As per the photo below I prefer a reel leg to butt distance of XXcm or less.

 

The line at a glance: Braid and not mono. Stick with major brands. Colour up to you. Highly recommend 0.06mm diameter for casting distance. As a starting point consider Berkley X5 4lb (0.06mm diam.) or Shimano Kairiki 8 6lb (0.06mm diam.) or Daiwa J Braid 6lb (0.06mm diam.). I’ve been also pretty happy with Shimano Power Pro 4lb (0.08mm diam.)

 

Now in more detail

The transition from monofilament to braid in the last 20 years has been a game changer. I’ve been advised that mono has a 10% stretch versus the 1% stretch of braid. This lack of stretch means any bites or twitches of the rod are transmitted directly up or down the line.

Braid is skinnier and lighter than an equivalent breaking strain mono so it mean you get better casting distance out of the light lures. It is often more susceptible to nicks and cuts than mono hence the use of a leader at the working end.

It is stronger than you think so go lighter for added casting distance. I think the reason that most braids overtest is that it puts a safety margin in to allow for the strength reduction factor of knots. These days I’m mostly using X5 in Crystal and the breaking strain shown on the box is 4lb USA or 6.4kg (say 14lb) Europe or 14lb Asia.

If you are concerned about the strength of the braid unroll out about 60cm and wrap it around your fingers then gradually load it up and try and break it before you cut yourself. Don’t snap your hands apart as this is not a real world scenario. When a fish hits your lure in the real world that shock is taken up partially by the leader and mostly by the rod tip flexing. Essentially in the real world that load up is smooth and consistent. I haven’t had anyone break the 4lb braid I use when demonstrating the strength of braid. This guideline also applies to testing knots, gradually load the line up to what you consider a fair breaking stress rather than snapping your hands apart.

Backing: Unless you get a deal to fill your spool off a bulk roll at the shop that 125m to 150m of braid will not fill up a spool fully. We use mono backing to top up the spool to within 1-2mm of the inner lip of the spool. For my 4lb braid I use 8lb mono. The leftover 8lb mono can be used as leader material. The nice thing is that if you set the backing up properly the first time the next time you have to replace the braid you just strip it back to the joiner knot and load up another spool of the braid you had before.

The reel: Suggest a 1500 to 2500 Shimano or Daiwa sized reels (not all manufacturers use the same sizing so I’m using these brands for a size comparison not specifically saying buy one of those two brands – they are however an excellent starting point). Biggest thing is make sure it has a smooth drag and it should have infinite anti-reverse (no matter where you stop winding there will not be any play backwards such as happened with the older reels). Check that it balances well on the outfit. It has to feel right is the best way I can put it - if I put a Shimano size 10,000 reel on a bream rod it will feel off. Alternatively, once you put the reel on the rod the centre of mass will generally be where the grip of the rod meets the blank.

General advice:

The gear you are buying is mass produced and shipped in bulk. There may be some manufacturing or transport issues. Before you walk out of the store check everything you can. Are the guides all aligned and not bent. Has the top guide been broken off (it happens). Is there a problem with the finish. Do the pieces go together smoothly and tightly. Pick up the reel and look for dings. Wind it fast and slow to feel for rough spots (close your eyes if you have to). Do several fast start and stops during the winding (as if you were working a lure). How much play is there. It is far easier to sort that out in the store than argue later that it wasn’t your fault. If you do find an issue please do me a favour and raise it with the staff to help the next person coming along and not catching the problem.

 

More fishing gear is damaged by poor handling or transport than to fish. Most of my rods go in a soft case and then into a hard case which I can then leave in the back of my car. The soft case stops them rattling around which helps if you store more than one rod in a case. I use Seahorse rod tubes but found over time the handle broke so worked out a way of replacing those. I put a different sticker on each case at one end as it allows me to identify which rod is which and it lets me know which end is the butt end of the rod in case I decide to store them vertically. Shimano make some nice rod tubes with a sling. I’ve also made my own for one of my larger traveller outfits by heading down to the hardware for some pipe, end caps, foam and PVC glue.

My reels go in a neoprene cover so they don’t bang against each other. Mostly I use Shimano ones as their current design allows you to keep the reel handle in working position and it suitable for left or right hand applications.

 

More to come....

Edited March 18, 2022 by DerekD

[wazatherfisherman]

56 minutes ago, DerekD said:

Hi Noob,

I think 1-3kg is a little too light as a starting point. Suggest you look at a 2-4kg which will still be fun to fight the fish on but have enough backbone to land the larger bread and butter species. I also think the lure rating is a little too light to start with. Consider 2-12gram region. Halco twisties are a great lure to have in your kit and the 10gram is a great match to the baitfish we see in summer when the pelagics get active.

Coincidentally I've been working on an article on and off for several months to help people like yourself with their first lure outfit. Still got a fair bit more writing (it grows every time I think about it) and several photos and videos to add in. I'll copy and past some of what I've done so far in case it helps you:

Hi All,

 

So you want to get into lure fishing as you have heard it is a great way to catch fish or the lures in the shop look cool or that is what your mates are getting into, etc. You buy some lures and start using it on your existing gear and realise it seems harder than it looks. There is a point at which you start to get despondent as you are not catching fish and your loved ones are starting to joke about it. Obviously lures don’t worked as advertised. I come across a variation of this scenario several times a year. When I break down the “why” the biggest factor and easiest to fix is usually having the right gear. This is a subjective article in that what works for me may not suit you but there is over 15 years of learning, aha moments and teaching others behind what I’ve put together. What I am trying to do is give you enough information to help you make an informed decision based on your requirements with the final choices being up to you. Like most things in life there is a learning curve and I hope this article will shorten yours by several years. This is intended to apply to spinning outfits.

If you told me I could only fish one class of outfit for the rest of my life it would be the light outfits in the 1-4kg range. My preference is the light (say 2-4kg) but the following will also apply to the ultralight (say 1-3kg) gear. My first fish on a soft plastic was on a soft fibreglass tip Shimano rod in the 2-4kg range with 8lb mono off a boat moored at Balmoral beach in the early 2000s. My friend introduced me to a white grub on small jig which I spent a little time working through the water column before hooking up. The fight took a little bit longer than it would these days but I really didn’t want to lose it. After a cautious fight up came a beautiful (and legal from memory) silver trevally. That experience changed my fishing world dramatically in several ways and exponentially revitalised my passion for fishing. The reel was a bit clunky (no infinite anti-reverse) and I realised that the line and rod felt too spongy to properly work the lures so I made some gear upgrades. After a couple of false starts I kind of hit the jackpot with the set up I ended up with and then fished for probably a decade. The rod was a 1st generation Shimano 2 piece (I started with a 1 piece and that was one of the false starts) Raider series Bream Finesse graphite 7 foot 6 inches long rod in a 2-4kg and 3-12 gram lure rating. I still own it but I haven’t used it for a couple of years. The reel (I had a false start with another brand) I bought was a Shimano Symetre 1500 (I preferred the handle over the 2500). The best value braid back then for me was the Berkley Fireline in Crystal (white) in 125 yard lengths. The backing was 8lb mono. The recommended joiner knot according to Berkley was the uni to uni. I still rate that outfit as a great starting point depending on your budget.

 

Before I go into my usual excessive detail I want to give you some things to think about as to “why” you should consider fishing lighter outfits (especially with lures) as a starting point. A lot of what I teach people will scale upwards into heavier outfits.

 

Consider the legal size of most bread and butter species, bream (25cm), snapper (30cm), flathead (36cm for the dusky), tailor (30cm), trevally (silver 30cm), whiting (27cm), luderick (27cm), etc. In the legal size most of these would weigh about 1kg max. Yes they can grow bigger but how many of these would you actually catch over say 2kg. Fishing with a 10kg outfit takes a bit of the fun out of it as you can winch a fish in rather than play it (not really giving the fish a sporting chance either). My theory is that people buy the heavier gear because it was on special or just in case they hook that 1 in a 1,000 fish but forget about the 999 fish they will more likely be hooking up.

The follow on from that point is that with the finesse gear I expect to get more hook ups. Yes, I might lose the odd fish but if I am getting three times the hook up rate of someone using far heavier gear then I am still ahead overall.

I find I am never bored. I’m focussed on the cast. Working the lure. Thinking about the next cast. Feeling for bites. Thinking about how I can change things up and what to try next. I even get a lot of joy out of seeing the water mist at the reel as I rip out a good cast and then watch the braid slowly float down to the surface of the water on a wind still day.

The quality of fish has gone up and at times the quantity too. Think about what happens if you throw a piece of bread in the water. Usually it is the little fish that race in first. The larger fish haven’t gotten that way by being stupid or at least trusting their instincts. I still get smaller fish but it is the bigger fish that are more likely to engulf that lure if you can convince them they want it.

It is a really versatile outfit. I can be working the bottom for flathead and then the mid to upper water column for pelagics. I can throw on a metal slice (e.g. Halco twisty) to cover some impressive distances when fish are feeding on the surface on the small silver baitfish. I can go freshwater and use a popper or celta spinner for bass. Use hardbodies such as Tassie Devils or Rapala CD7s for trout. Use a squid jig to catch bait or a feed of salt and pepper calamari. Put on a MMD Splash prawn or similar to chase bream along the oyster encrusted rock walls inside Sydney. I can even use bait on the same outfit to chase carp on corn or whiting on the flats with yabbies.

I can head out pretty well anytime for a fish without a lot of pre-planning. Have an hour to spare and driving past some likely looking water. Grab the rod out of the back of the car, put on the reel and the lure and then start fishing.

With lures I don’t have to clean the smell or mess of prawns after a fishing session. At worst I have to clean some of the scale type glitter off my fingers or face (otherwise I look like I’ve been attacked by someone with fairy dust). A packet of lures and jig heads will generally give you more bang for buck than bait which might only be used for a single session before being dumped.

It is a bit more satisfying to catch fish as you are fooling them into taking your lure. As a bonus there is some poetic justice in there as the fish or squid picks on something smaller than itself to find something bigger than itself on the other end of the line.

If this of interest to you then please read on.

Disclaimer: I am a huge Shimano fan for several reasons. I like the gear as I think it is well designed and made. I have had a lot of wonderful memories using their gear. I used to work near their offices and they have helped me with a number of issues (services, replacing broken rod tip, spare spools, upgrades) and because of their after sales support I’ve had no hesitation in recommending their equipment to others. I do use other brands. There is so much competition out there that if you don’t make a competitive product (build quality or price) you risk falling by the wayside. I am not sponsored by Shimano but I’ll often mention their gear because it is a way of setting a minimum bar for comparison and I also don’t have the time or the funding to test every product out there. As you are the one going to be using it take the time to look at other brands. I don’t see an issue if you buy something just because the colour rocks if it meets my other criteria.

 

The rod at a glance: Graphite all the way. Seven-ish foot. 8 guides minimum. Short butt (add measurement here). 2 piece recommended over 1 piece for travel. 2-4kg is a good overall line rating for bread and butter species. Rated for 3-12gram lures.

Now in more detail:

Graphite over fibreglass due to the reduced weight and fast response. You are creating the movement in the lures and I find the stiffness of the graphite rods means every twitch I send down to the lure is not dampened by the rod. Stay away from the rods with a fibreglass tip for this kind of fishing.

There are several downsides to graphite rods but this isn’t an issue as long as you are aware of them and factor them into your fishing.

Like for like they are a bit more expensive than their fibreglass cousins but due to improved manufacturing the price difference is getting smaller and smaller.

Graphite conducts electricity. Keep away from power cables and thunderstorms.

Graphite bruises. If it is going to be a boat rod and banging up against the gunnels or other metal surfaces in time the points of impacts will develop minor cracking which will likely bite you when fighting a fish sometime in the future. People think the rod is faulty when it breaks due to previous poor handling.

It is not as robust as a fibreglass rod. If you have ever seen the classic Australian movie “The Castle” there is a scene where they bend over a Shakespeare Ugly Stick rod on itself. You don’t do that with a graphite rod and you don’t need to either. It is referred to as high sticking when fighting a fish and it is a bad habit.

Rod tip speed usually translates into lure speed and added casting distance. All other things being equal I expect to cast further with a 7 foot rod over a 5 foot rod. My rods are generally in the 7 foot (213cm) to 7 foot 6 inches (229cm). You can go longer but these are often specialist rods and become a little awkward to handle.

To ensure the line loads up evenly along the rod blank look for 1 guide per foot of rod length plus 1. So a 6 foot rod should have 7 guides. A 7 foot rod should have 8 guides.

2 piece rod versus 1 piece. When I started I bought the 1 piece Finesse Raider 761 based on the advice from a friend rather than the advice from the guy in the local tackleshop who said I wouldn’t notice the difference. 1 piece is a pain to transport and store. I  bought the same rod (762) in 2 piece asap after I found it for a good price. The 1 piece has lived in the garage ever since. The problem with the two pieces is that after an extended casting session they can sometimes separate and you will see the top of the rod flying off.

You can also get 3 or 4 piece traveller rods if you need something even easier to transport. They will fit in your suitcase on say a business trip or with your gear when hiking.

The reason I like a short butt on my rods is that the longer ones bump against the meaty part of my forearm when working the lure rod tip down with the grip I prefer. As per the photo below I prefer a reel leg to butt distance of XXcm or less.

 

The line at a glance: Braid and not mono. Stick with major brands. Colour up to you. Highly recommend 0.06mm diameter for casting distance. As a starting point consider Berkley X5 4lb (0.06mm diam.) or Shimano Kairiki 8 6lb (0.06mm diam.) or Daiwa J Braid 6lb (0.06mm diam.). I’ve been also pretty happy with Shimano Power Pro 4lb (0.08mm diam.)

 

Now in more detail

The transition from monofilament to braid in the last 20 years has been a game changer. I’ve been advised that mono has a 10% stretch versus the 1% stretch of braid. This lack of stretch means any bites or twitches of the rod are transmitted directly up or down the line.

Braid is skinnier and lighter than an equivalent breaking strain mono so it mean you get better casting distance out of the light lures. It is often more susceptible to nicks and cuts than mono hence the use of a leader at the working end.

It is stronger than you think so go lighter for added casting distance. I think the reason that most braids overtest is that it puts a safety margin in to allow for the strength reduction factor of knots. These days I’m mostly using X5 in Crystal and the breaking strain shown on the box is 4lb USA or 6.4kg (say 14lb) Europe or 14lb Asia.

If you are concerned about the strength of the braid unroll out about 60cm and wrap it around your fingers then gradually load it up and try and break it before you cut yourself. Don’t snap your hands apart as this is not a real world scenario. When a fish hits your lure in the real world that shock is taken up partially by the leader and mostly by the rod tip flexing. Essentially in the real world that load up is smooth and consistent. I haven’t had anyone break the 4lb braid I use when demonstrating the strength of braid. This guideline also applies to testing knots, gradually load the line up to what you consider a fair breaking stress rather than snapping your hands apart.

Backing: Unless you get a deal to fill your spool off a bulk roll at the shop that 125m to 150m of braid will not fill up a spool fully. We use mono backing to top up the spool to within 1-2mm of the inner lip of the spool. For my 4lb braid I use 8lb mono. The leftover 8lb mono can be used as leader material. The nice thing is that if you set the backing up properly the first time the next time you have to replace the braid you just strip it back to the joiner knot and load up another spool of the braid you had before.

The reel: Suggest a 1500 to 2500 Shimano or Daiwa sized reels (not all manufacturers use the same sizing so I’m using these brands for a size comparison not specifically saying buy one of those two brands – they are however an excellent starting point). Biggest thing is make sure it has a smooth drag and it should have infinite anti-reverse (no matter where you stop winding there will not be any play backwards such as happened with the older reels). Check that it balances well on the outfit. It has to feel right is the best way I can put it - if I put a Shimano size 10,000 reel on a bream rod it will feel off. Alternatively, once you put the reel on the rod the centre of mass will generally be where the grip of the rod meets the blank.

More to come....

Great write up mate! I've been lucky enough to see a larger preview of Derek's article and it's "text-book" quality! 

[Fab1]

2 hours ago, DerekD said:

Hi Noob,

I think 1-3kg is a little too light as a starting point. Suggest you look at a 2-4kg which will still be fun to fight the fish on but have enough backbone to land the larger bread and butter species. I also think the lure rating is a little too light to start with. Consider 2-12gram region. Halco twisties are a great lure to have in your kit and the 10gram is a great match to the baitfish we see in summer when the pelagics get active.

Coincidentally I've been working on an article on and off for several months to help people like yourself with their first lure outfit. Still got a fair bit more writing (it grows every time I think about it) and several photos and videos to add in. I'll copy and past some of what I've done so far in case it helps you:

Hi All,

 

So you want to get into lure fishing as you have heard it is a great way to catch fish or the lures in the shop look cool or that is what your mates are getting into, etc. You buy some lures and start using it on your existing gear and realise it seems harder than it looks. There is a point at which you start to get despondent as you are not catching fish and your loved ones are starting to joke about it. Obviously lures don’t worked as advertised. I come across a variation of this scenario several times a year. When I break down the “why” the biggest factor and easiest to fix is usually having the right gear. This is a subjective article in that what works for me may not suit you but there is over 15 years of learning, aha moments and teaching others behind what I’ve put together. What I am trying to do is give you enough information to help you make an informed decision based on your requirements with the final choices being up to you. Like most things in life there is a learning curve and I hope this article will shorten yours by several years. This is intended to apply to spinning outfits.

If you told me I could only fish one class of outfit for the rest of my life it would be the light outfits in the 1-4kg range. My preference is the light (say 2-4kg) but the following will also apply to the ultralight (say 1-3kg) gear. My first fish on a soft plastic was on a soft fibreglass tip Shimano rod in the 2-4kg range with 8lb mono off a boat moored at Balmoral beach in the early 2000s. My friend introduced me to a white grub on small jig which I spent a little time working through the water column before hooking up. The fight took a little bit longer than it would these days but I really didn’t want to lose it. After a cautious fight up came a beautiful (and legal from memory) silver trevally. That experience changed my fishing world dramatically in several ways and exponentially revitalised my passion for fishing. The reel was a bit clunky (no infinite anti-reverse) and I realised that the line and rod felt too spongy to properly work the lures so I made some gear upgrades. After a couple of false starts I kind of hit the jackpot with the set up I ended up with and then fished for probably a decade. The rod was a 1st generation Shimano 2 piece (I started with a 1 piece and that was one of the false starts) Raider series Bream Finesse graphite 7 foot 6 inches long rod in a 2-4kg and 3-12 gram lure rating. I still own it but I haven’t used it for a couple of years. The reel (I had a false start with another brand) I bought was a Shimano Symetre 1500 (I preferred the handle over the 2500). The best value braid back then for me was the Berkley Fireline in Crystal (white) in 125 yard lengths. The backing was 8lb mono. The recommended joiner knot according to Berkley was the uni to uni. I still rate that outfit as a great starting point depending on your budget.

 

Before I go into my usual excessive detail I want to give you some things to think about as to “why” you should consider fishing lighter outfits (especially with lures) as a starting point. A lot of what I teach people will scale upwards into heavier outfits.

 

Consider the legal size of most bread and butter species, bream (25cm), snapper (30cm), flathead (36cm for the dusky), tailor (30cm), trevally (silver 30cm), whiting (27cm), luderick (27cm), etc. In the legal size most of these would weigh about 1kg max. Yes they can grow bigger but how many of these would you actually catch over say 2kg. Fishing with a 10kg outfit takes a bit of the fun out of it as you can winch a fish in rather than play it (not really giving the fish a sporting chance either). My theory is that people buy the heavier gear because it was on special or just in case they hook that 1 in a 1,000 fish but forget about the 999 fish they will more likely be hooking up.

The follow on from that point is that with the finesse gear I expect to get more hook ups. Yes, I might lose the odd fish but if I am getting three times the hook up rate of someone using far heavier gear then I am still ahead overall.

I find I am never bored. I’m focussed on the cast. Working the lure. Thinking about the next cast. Feeling for bites. Thinking about how I can change things up and what to try next. I even get a lot of joy out of seeing the water mist at the reel as I rip out a good cast and then watch the braid slowly float down to the surface of the water on a wind still day.

The quality of fish has gone up and at times the quantity too. Think about what happens if you throw a piece of bread in the water. Usually it is the little fish that race in first. The larger fish haven’t gotten that way by being stupid or at least trusting their instincts. I still get smaller fish but it is the bigger fish that are more likely to engulf that lure if you can convince them they want it.

It is a really versatile outfit. I can be working the bottom for flathead and then the mid to upper water column for pelagics. I can throw on a metal slice (e.g. Halco twisty) to cover some impressive distances when fish are feeding on the surface on the small silver baitfish. I can go freshwater and use a popper or celta spinner for bass. Use hardbodies such as Tassie Devils or Rapala CD7s for trout. Use a squid jig to catch bait or a feed of salt and pepper calamari. Put on a MMD Splash prawn or similar to chase bream along the oyster encrusted rock walls inside Sydney. I can even use bait on the same outfit to chase carp on corn or whiting on the flats with yabbies.

I can head out pretty well anytime for a fish without a lot of pre-planning. Have an hour to spare and driving past some likely looking water. Grab the rod out of the back of the car, put on the reel and the lure and then start fishing.

With lures I don’t have to clean the smell or mess of prawns after a fishing session. At worst I have to clean some of the scale type glitter off my fingers or face (otherwise I look like I’ve been attacked by someone with fairy dust). A packet of lures and jig heads will generally give you more bang for buck than bait which might only be used for a single session before being dumped.

It is a bit more satisfying to catch fish as you are fooling them into taking your lure. As a bonus there is some poetic justice in there as the fish or squid picks on something smaller than itself to find something bigger than itself on the other end of the line.

If this of interest to you then please read on.

Disclaimer: I am a huge Shimano fan for several reasons. I like the gear as I think it is well designed and made. I have had a lot of wonderful memories using their gear. I used to work near their offices and they have helped me with a number of issues (services, replacing broken rod tip, spare spools, upgrades) and because of their after sales support I’ve had no hesitation in recommending their equipment to others. I do use other brands. There is so much competition out there that if you don’t make a competitive product (build quality or price) you risk falling by the wayside. I am not sponsored by Shimano but I’ll often mention their gear because it is a way of setting a minimum bar for comparison and I also don’t have the time or the funding to test every product out there. As you are the one going to be using it take the time to look at other brands. I don’t see an issue if you buy something just because the colour rocks if it meets my other criteria.

 

The rod at a glance: Graphite all the way. Seven-ish foot. 8 guides minimum. Short butt (add measurement here). 2 piece recommended over 1 piece for travel. 2-4kg is a good overall line rating for bread and butter species. Rated for 3-12gram lures.

Now in more detail:

Graphite over fibreglass due to the reduced weight and fast response. You are creating the movement in the lures and I find the stiffness of the graphite rods means every twitch I send down to the lure is not dampened by the rod. Stay away from the rods with a fibreglass tip for this kind of fishing.

There are several downsides to graphite rods but this isn’t an issue as long as you are aware of them and factor them into your fishing.

Like for like they are a bit more expensive than their fibreglass cousins but due to improved manufacturing the price difference is getting smaller and smaller.

Graphite conducts electricity. Keep away from power cables and thunderstorms.

Graphite bruises. If it is going to be a boat rod and banging up against the gunnels or other metal surfaces in time the points of impacts will develop minor cracking which will likely bite you when fighting a fish sometime in the future. People think the rod is faulty when it breaks due to previous poor handling.

It is not as robust as a fibreglass rod. If you have ever seen the classic Australian movie “The Castle” there is a scene where they bend over a Shakespeare Ugly Stick rod on itself. You don’t do that with a graphite rod and you don’t need to either. It is referred to as high sticking when fighting a fish and it is a bad habit.

Rod tip speed usually translates into lure speed and added casting distance. All other things being equal I expect to cast further with a 7 foot rod over a 5 foot rod. My rods are generally in the 7 foot (213cm) to 7 foot 6 inches (229cm). You can go longer but these are often specialist rods and become a little awkward to handle.

To ensure the line loads up evenly along the rod blank look for 1 guide per foot of rod length plus 1. So a 6 foot rod should have 7 guides. A 7 foot rod should have 8 guides.

2 piece rod versus 1 piece. When I started I bought the 1 piece Finesse Raider 761 based on the advice from a friend rather than the advice from the guy in the local tackleshop who said I wouldn’t notice the difference. 1 piece is a pain to transport and store. I  bought the same rod (762) in 2 piece asap after I found it for a good price. The 1 piece has lived in the garage ever since. The problem with the two pieces is that after an extended casting session they can sometimes separate and you will see the top of the rod flying off.

You can also get 3 or 4 piece traveller rods if you need something even easier to transport. They will fit in your suitcase on say a business trip or with your gear when hiking.

The reason I like a short butt on my rods is that the longer ones bump against the meaty part of my forearm when working the lure rod tip down with the grip I prefer. As per the photo below I prefer a reel leg to butt distance of XXcm or less.

 

The line at a glance: Braid and not mono. Stick with major brands. Colour up to you. Highly recommend 0.06mm diameter for casting distance. As a starting point consider Berkley X5 4lb (0.06mm diam.) or Shimano Kairiki 8 6lb (0.06mm diam.) or Daiwa J Braid 6lb (0.06mm diam.). I’ve been also pretty happy with Shimano Power Pro 4lb (0.08mm diam.)

 

Now in more detail

The transition from monofilament to braid in the last 20 years has been a game changer. I’ve been advised that mono has a 10% stretch versus the 1% stretch of braid. This lack of stretch means any bites or twitches of the rod are transmitted directly up or down the line.

Braid is skinnier and lighter than an equivalent breaking strain mono so it mean you get better casting distance out of the light lures. It is often more susceptible to nicks and cuts than mono hence the use of a leader at the working end.

It is stronger than you think so go lighter for added casting distance. I think the reason that most braids overtest is that it puts a safety margin in to allow for the strength reduction factor of knots. These days I’m mostly using X5 in Crystal and the breaking strain shown on the box is 4lb USA or 6.4kg (say 14lb) Europe or 14lb Asia.

If you are concerned about the strength of the braid unroll out about 60cm and wrap it around your fingers then gradually load it up and try and break it before you cut yourself. Don’t snap your hands apart as this is not a real world scenario. When a fish hits your lure in the real world that shock is taken up partially by the leader and mostly by the rod tip flexing. Essentially in the real world that load up is smooth and consistent. I haven’t had anyone break the 4lb braid I use when demonstrating the strength of braid. This guideline also applies to testing knots, gradually load the line up to what you consider a fair breaking stress rather than snapping your hands apart.

Backing: Unless you get a deal to fill your spool off a bulk roll at the shop that 125m to 150m of braid will not fill up a spool fully. We use mono backing to top up the spool to within 1-2mm of the inner lip of the spool. For my 4lb braid I use 8lb mono. The leftover 8lb mono can be used as leader material. The nice thing is that if you set the backing up properly the first time the next time you have to replace the braid you just strip it back to the joiner knot and load up another spool of the braid you had before.

The reel: Suggest a 1500 to 2500 Shimano or Daiwa sized reels (not all manufacturers use the same sizing so I’m using these brands for a size comparison not specifically saying buy one of those two brands – they are however an excellent starting point). Biggest thing is make sure it has a smooth drag and it should have infinite anti-reverse (no matter where you stop winding there will not be any play backwards such as happened with the older reels). Check that it balances well on the outfit. It has to feel right is the best way I can put it - if I put a Shimano size 10,000 reel on a bream rod it will feel off. Alternatively, once you put the reel on the rod the centre of mass will generally be where the grip of the rod meets the blank.

General advice:

 

The gear you are buying is mass produced and shipped in bulk. There may be some manufacturing or transport issues. Before you walk out of the store check everything you can. Are the guides all aligned and not bent. Has the top guide been broken off (it happens). Is there a problem with the finish. Do the pieces go together smoothly and tightly. Pick up the reel and look for dings. Wind it fast and slow to feel for rough spots (close your eyes if you have to). Do several fast start and stops during the winding (as if you were working a lure). How much play is there. It is far easier to sort that out in the store than argue later that it wasn’t your fault. If you do find an issue please do me a favour and raise it with the staff to help the next person coming along and not catching the problem.

 

 

 

More fishing gear is damaged by poor handling or transport than to fish. Most of my rods go in a soft case and then into a hard case which I can then leave in the back of my car. The soft case stops them rattling around which helps if you store more than one rod in a case. I use Seahorse rod tubes but found over time the handle broke so worked out a way of replacing those. I put a different sticker on each case at one end as it allows me to identify which rod is which and it lets me know which end is the butt end of the rod in case I decide to store them vertically. Shimano make some nice rod tubes with a sling. I’ve also made my own for one of my larger traveller outfits by heading down to the hardware for some pipe, end caps, foam and PVC glue.

 

My reels go in a neoprene cover so they don’t bang against each other. Mostly I use Shimano ones as their current design allows you to keep the reel handle in working position and it suitable for left or right hand applications.

 

 

More to come....

Geez mate!! I Would of had to start writing all that 3 weeks ago to be able to post it yesterday.😂😂😂 excellent, well written info mate.Loved it.👍👍

[Little_Flatty]

9 hours ago, DerekD said:

Hi Noob,

I think 1-3kg is a little too light as a starting point. Suggest you look at a 2-4kg which will still be fun to fight the fish on but have enough backbone to land the larger bread and butter species. I also think the lure rating is a little too light to start with. Consider 2-12gram region. Halco twisties are a great lure to have in your kit and the 10gram is a great match to the baitfish we see in summer when the pelagics get active.

Coincidentally I've been working on an article on and off for several months to help people like yourself with their first lure outfit. Still got a fair bit more writing (it grows every time I think about it) and several photos and videos to add in. I'll copy and past some of what I've done so far in case it helps you:

Hi All,

 

So you want to get into lure fishing as you have heard it is a great way to catch fish or the lures in the shop look cool or that is what your mates are getting into, etc. You buy some lures and start using it on your existing gear and realise it seems harder than it looks. There is a point at which you start to get despondent as you are not catching fish and your loved ones are starting to joke about it. Obviously lures don’t worked as advertised. I come across a variation of this scenario several times a year. When I break down the “why” the biggest factor and easiest to fix is usually having the right gear. This is a subjective article in that what works for me may not suit you but there is over 15 years of learning, aha moments and teaching others behind what I’ve put together. What I am trying to do is give you enough information to help you make an informed decision based on your requirements with the final choices being up to you. Like most things in life there is a learning curve and I hope this article will shorten yours by several years. This is intended to apply to spinning outfits.

If you told me I could only fish one class of outfit for the rest of my life it would be the light outfits in the 1-4kg range. My preference is the light (say 2-4kg) but the following will also apply to the ultralight (say 1-3kg) gear. My first fish on a soft plastic was on a soft fibreglass tip Shimano rod in the 2-4kg range with 8lb mono off a boat moored at Balmoral beach in the early 2000s. My friend introduced me to a white grub on small jig which I spent a little time working through the water column before hooking up. The fight took a little bit longer than it would these days but I really didn’t want to lose it. After a cautious fight up came a beautiful (and legal from memory) silver trevally. That experience changed my fishing world dramatically in several ways and exponentially revitalised my passion for fishing. The reel was a bit clunky (no infinite anti-reverse) and I realised that the line and rod felt too spongy to properly work the lures so I made some gear upgrades. After a couple of false starts I kind of hit the jackpot with the set up I ended up with and then fished for probably a decade. The rod was a 1st generation Shimano 2 piece (I started with a 1 piece and that was one of the false starts) Raider series Bream Finesse graphite 7 foot 6 inches long rod in a 2-4kg and 3-12 gram lure rating. I still own it but I haven’t used it for a couple of years. The reel (I had a false start with another brand) I bought was a Shimano Symetre 1500 (I preferred the handle over the 2500). The best value braid back then for me was the Berkley Fireline in Crystal (white) in 125 yard lengths. The backing was 8lb mono. The recommended joiner knot according to Berkley was the uni to uni. I still rate that outfit as a great starting point depending on your budget.

 

Before I go into my usual excessive detail I want to give you some things to think about as to “why” you should consider fishing lighter outfits (especially with lures) as a starting point. A lot of what I teach people will scale upwards into heavier outfits.

 

Consider the legal size of most bread and butter species, bream (25cm), snapper (30cm), flathead (36cm for the dusky), tailor (30cm), trevally (silver 30cm), whiting (27cm), luderick (27cm), etc. In the legal size most of these would weigh about 1kg max. Yes they can grow bigger but how many of these would you actually catch over say 2kg. Fishing with a 10kg outfit takes a bit of the fun out of it as you can winch a fish in rather than play it (not really giving the fish a sporting chance either). My theory is that people buy the heavier gear because it was on special or just in case they hook that 1 in a 1,000 fish but forget about the 999 fish they will more likely be hooking up.

The follow on from that point is that with the finesse gear I expect to get more hook ups. Yes, I might lose the odd fish but if I am getting three times the hook up rate of someone using far heavier gear then I am still ahead overall.

I find I am never bored. I’m focussed on the cast. Working the lure. Thinking about the next cast. Feeling for bites. Thinking about how I can change things up and what to try next. I even get a lot of joy out of seeing the water mist at the reel as I rip out a good cast and then watch the braid slowly float down to the surface of the water on a wind still day.

The quality of fish has gone up and at times the quantity too. Think about what happens if you throw a piece of bread in the water. Usually it is the little fish that race in first. The larger fish haven’t gotten that way by being stupid or at least trusting their instincts. I still get smaller fish but it is the bigger fish that are more likely to engulf that lure if you can convince them they want it.

It is a really versatile outfit. I can be working the bottom for flathead and then the mid to upper water column for pelagics. I can throw on a metal slice (e.g. Halco twisty) to cover some impressive distances when fish are feeding on the surface on the small silver baitfish. I can go freshwater and use a popper or celta spinner for bass. Use hardbodies such as Tassie Devils or Rapala CD7s for trout. Use a squid jig to catch bait or a feed of salt and pepper calamari. Put on a MMD Splash prawn or similar to chase bream along the oyster encrusted rock walls inside Sydney. I can even use bait on the same outfit to chase carp on corn or whiting on the flats with yabbies.

I can head out pretty well anytime for a fish without a lot of pre-planning. Have an hour to spare and driving past some likely looking water. Grab the rod out of the back of the car, put on the reel and the lure and then start fishing.

With lures I don’t have to clean the smell or mess of prawns after a fishing session. At worst I have to clean some of the scale type glitter off my fingers or face (otherwise I look like I’ve been attacked by someone with fairy dust). A packet of lures and jig heads will generally give you more bang for buck than bait which might only be used for a single session before being dumped.

It is a bit more satisfying to catch fish as you are fooling them into taking your lure. As a bonus there is some poetic justice in there as the fish or squid picks on something smaller than itself to find something bigger than itself on the other end of the line.

If this of interest to you then please read on.

Disclaimer: I am a huge Shimano fan for several reasons. I like the gear as I think it is well designed and made. I have had a lot of wonderful memories using their gear. I used to work near their offices and they have helped me with a number of issues (services, replacing broken rod tip, spare spools, upgrades) and because of their after sales support I’ve had no hesitation in recommending their equipment to others. I do use other brands. There is so much competition out there that if you don’t make a competitive product (build quality or price) you risk falling by the wayside. I am not sponsored by Shimano but I’ll often mention their gear because it is a way of setting a minimum bar for comparison and I also don’t have the time or the funding to test every product out there. As you are the one going to be using it take the time to look at other brands. I don’t see an issue if you buy something just because the colour rocks if it meets my other criteria.

 

The rod at a glance: Graphite all the way. Seven-ish foot. 8 guides minimum. Short butt (add measurement here). 2 piece recommended over 1 piece for travel. 2-4kg is a good overall line rating for bread and butter species. Rated for 3-12gram lures.

Now in more detail:

Graphite over fibreglass due to the reduced weight and fast response. You are creating the movement in the lures and I find the stiffness of the graphite rods means every twitch I send down to the lure is not dampened by the rod. Stay away from the rods with a fibreglass tip for this kind of fishing.

There are several downsides to graphite rods but this isn’t an issue as long as you are aware of them and factor them into your fishing.

Like for like they are a bit more expensive than their fibreglass cousins but due to improved manufacturing the price difference is getting smaller and smaller.

Graphite conducts electricity. Keep away from power cables and thunderstorms.

Graphite bruises. If it is going to be a boat rod and banging up against the gunnels or other metal surfaces in time the points of impacts will develop minor cracking which will likely bite you when fighting a fish sometime in the future. People think the rod is faulty when it breaks due to previous poor handling.

It is not as robust as a fibreglass rod. If you have ever seen the classic Australian movie “The Castle” there is a scene where they bend over a Shakespeare Ugly Stick rod on itself. You don’t do that with a graphite rod and you don’t need to either. It is referred to as high sticking when fighting a fish and it is a bad habit.

Rod tip speed usually translates into lure speed and added casting distance. All other things being equal I expect to cast further with a 7 foot rod over a 5 foot rod. My rods are generally in the 7 foot (213cm) to 7 foot 6 inches (229cm). You can go longer but these are often specialist rods and become a little awkward to handle.

To ensure the line loads up evenly along the rod blank look for 1 guide per foot of rod length plus 1. So a 6 foot rod should have 7 guides. A 7 foot rod should have 8 guides.

2 piece rod versus 1 piece. When I started I bought the 1 piece Finesse Raider 761 based on the advice from a friend rather than the advice from the guy in the local tackleshop who said I wouldn’t notice the difference. 1 piece is a pain to transport and store. I  bought the same rod (762) in 2 piece asap after I found it for a good price. The 1 piece has lived in the garage ever since. The problem with the two pieces is that after an extended casting session they can sometimes separate and you will see the top of the rod flying off.

You can also get 3 or 4 piece traveller rods if you need something even easier to transport. They will fit in your suitcase on say a business trip or with your gear when hiking.

The reason I like a short butt on my rods is that the longer ones bump against the meaty part of my forearm when working the lure rod tip down with the grip I prefer. As per the photo below I prefer a reel leg to butt distance of XXcm or less.

 

The line at a glance: Braid and not mono. Stick with major brands. Colour up to you. Highly recommend 0.06mm diameter for casting distance. As a starting point consider Berkley X5 4lb (0.06mm diam.) or Shimano Kairiki 8 6lb (0.06mm diam.) or Daiwa J Braid 6lb (0.06mm diam.). I’ve been also pretty happy with Shimano Power Pro 4lb (0.08mm diam.)

 

Now in more detail

The transition from monofilament to braid in the last 20 years has been a game changer. I’ve been advised that mono has a 10% stretch versus the 1% stretch of braid. This lack of stretch means any bites or twitches of the rod are transmitted directly up or down the line.

Braid is skinnier and lighter than an equivalent breaking strain mono so it mean you get better casting distance out of the light lures. It is often more susceptible to nicks and cuts than mono hence the use of a leader at the working end.

It is stronger than you think so go lighter for added casting distance. I think the reason that most braids overtest is that it puts a safety margin in to allow for the strength reduction factor of knots. These days I’m mostly using X5 in Crystal and the breaking strain shown on the box is 4lb USA or 6.4kg (say 14lb) Europe or 14lb Asia.

If you are concerned about the strength of the braid unroll out about 60cm and wrap it around your fingers then gradually load it up and try and break it before you cut yourself. Don’t snap your hands apart as this is not a real world scenario. When a fish hits your lure in the real world that shock is taken up partially by the leader and mostly by the rod tip flexing. Essentially in the real world that load up is smooth and consistent. I haven’t had anyone break the 4lb braid I use when demonstrating the strength of braid. This guideline also applies to testing knots, gradually load the line up to what you consider a fair breaking stress rather than snapping your hands apart.

Backing: Unless you get a deal to fill your spool off a bulk roll at the shop that 125m to 150m of braid will not fill up a spool fully. We use mono backing to top up the spool to within 1-2mm of the inner lip of the spool. For my 4lb braid I use 8lb mono. The leftover 8lb mono can be used as leader material. The nice thing is that if you set the backing up properly the first time the next time you have to replace the braid you just strip it back to the joiner knot and load up another spool of the braid you had before.

The reel: Suggest a 1500 to 2500 Shimano or Daiwa sized reels (not all manufacturers use the same sizing so I’m using these brands for a size comparison not specifically saying buy one of those two brands – they are however an excellent starting point). Biggest thing is make sure it has a smooth drag and it should have infinite anti-reverse (no matter where you stop winding there will not be any play backwards such as happened with the older reels). Check that it balances well on the outfit. It has to feel right is the best way I can put it - if I put a Shimano size 10,000 reel on a bream rod it will feel off. Alternatively, once you put the reel on the rod the centre of mass will generally be where the grip of the rod meets the blank.

General advice:

 

The gear you are buying is mass produced and shipped in bulk. There may be some manufacturing or transport issues. Before you walk out of the store check everything you can. Are the guides all aligned and not bent. Has the top guide been broken off (it happens). Is there a problem with the finish. Do the pieces go together smoothly and tightly. Pick up the reel and look for dings. Wind it fast and slow to feel for rough spots (close your eyes if you have to). Do several fast start and stops during the winding (as if you were working a lure). How much play is there. It is far easier to sort that out in the store than argue later that it wasn’t your fault. If you do find an issue please do me a favour and raise it with the staff to help the next person coming along and not catching the problem.

 

 

 

More fishing gear is damaged by poor handling or transport than to fish. Most of my rods go in a soft case and then into a hard case which I can then leave in the back of my car. The soft case stops them rattling around which helps if you store more than one rod in a case. I use Seahorse rod tubes but found over time the handle broke so worked out a way of replacing those. I put a different sticker on each case at one end as it allows me to identify which rod is which and it lets me know which end is the butt end of the rod in case I decide to store them vertically. Shimano make some nice rod tubes with a sling. I’ve also made my own for one of my larger traveller outfits by heading down to the hardware for some pipe, end caps, foam and PVC glue.

 

My reels go in a neoprene cover so they don’t bang against each other. Mostly I use Shimano ones as their current design allows you to keep the reel handle in working position and it suitable for left or right hand applications.

 

 

More to come....

Looking forward to these articles @DerekD! Also impressed that you have roped in @wazatherfisherman as an editor!

[Little_Flatty]

10 hours ago, bluefin said:

I taught my Grandkids on 1 to 3 Kg With a lot of guidance. Another line class where you need not to care if you loose a few fish.

The one thing 1-3kg line is good for, particularly towards the lower end of the range, is to give you practice at playing fish skillfully. On 1kg mono, a 40cm whiting on the flats is an absolute trophy and I think the fight would put a smile on the dial of the most ambitious angler. But I wouldn't recommend it as an all-round line class.

As an aside, it has crossed my mind a few times that a small child hooked up to a decent fish on 4kg line could be a safety concern or result in the loss of an outfit.  My daughter has an alvey outfit and we've had to lock out the anti reverse with no drag for most of our fishing sessions. For a while I was tying on 3lb leader so that if she hooked on something serious, the line would break. But I think that would disappoint her now that her fishing skills are improving. I've since upgraded her to a basic spinning outfit so we can set the drag, giving her a fairer chance against the fish and more options if she can't handle it on her own. The alvey will wait until she can palm the spool.

[wazatherfisherman]

2 hours ago, Little_Flatty said:

Looking forward to these articles @DerekD! Also impressed that you have roped in @wazatherfisherman as an editor!

Let me just say that Derek's article needs no editing- it's really comprehensive, brilliantly composed and will help all who read it. I conveyed to him that it's the beginning of a book in my opinion and was chuffed when he asked me to add a little from a rod building/custom perspective- which I working on while here in hospital

[Rebel]

Mate,

Have a look at the combo specials as mentioned.

Abu Garcia Veritas.

Dawia TD Series.

The list goes on.

Good advice from @DerekD.

Cheers.

[campr]

Hi Noob.   I have quite a few new rods and a couple of reels that have never been used that I won in competitions that I am thinking of selling.  I noticed a couple of replies recommended the ABU Veritas series.  I have one of these that I was going to sell at $50.  Its new still with tags and 1-3kg but may be a bit short at 6ft 4in as I prefer something around 7ft.

Don't know where you live but I'm near Engadine.  Message me if interested.  Ron

[Noob-Fisho]

Wow thanks for all the help guys, especially you DerekD. So I am still looking at my options but right now I am considering this setup.

Rod: Atomic Arrowz Estuary AAS-70UL (7", 3-10lb line weight, 3-14g cast weight, Full graphite)
Reel: Shimano Sedona FI 2500
Line: 8lb Braid (Backed with mono) , 8lb fluro leader

Again thanks for your help and any suggestions you could add to this setup would be great.

Cheers.

Edited March 26, 2022 by Noob-Fisho

[Little_Flatty]

1 hour ago, Noob-Fisho said:

Wow thanks for all the help guys, especially you DerekD. So I am still looking at my options but right now I am considering this setup.

Rod: Atomic Arrowz Estuary AAS-70UL (7", 3-10lb line weight, 3-14g cast weight, Full graphite)
Reel: Shimano Sedona FI 2500
Line: 8lb Braid (Backed with mono) , 8lb fluro leader

Again thanks for your help and any suggestions you could add to this setup would be great.

Cheers.

Looks like a nice little outfit.

If it were me, I might fish 6lb braid instead of 8lb as it's just a bit thinner and plenty strong enough (probably would break 8-10lb anyway). But it depends on what you are targeting.

Get a decent braid, like J-braid or similar. It's worth the money.

[Little_Flatty]

45 minutes ago, maccapacca said:

Could you get away chasing flattys with 6lb mainline? Obviously using a heavier leader like 10lb though.

Just was thinking about what my next goal will be fishing wise as iv caught a legal flathead (first goal) and I don’t know what it should be, was thinking about maybe bream on plastics which is achievable but need to Eventualy spool up my reel with some new braid.8lb has been good for what iv been doing but apparently 6lb is half the diameter so I’d imagine you get better casting distance

6lb braid generally doesn't break at 6lb. Probably closer to 8-10lb, if not more. If you have the choice, you will get more casting distance and find it generally easier to work with. And yes, it will be plenty for 95% of the flathead you catch.

Most of the time I'm using 8-10lb leader. I got a 70cm flathead with 8lb leader, but I will admit luck was on my side.

But if you have 8lb braid, it's close enough. You can leave it alone.

[Mike Sydney]

On 3/26/2022 at 5:12 PM, Noob-Fisho said:

Wow thanks for all the help guys, especially you DerekD. So I am still looking at my options but right now I am considering this setup.

Rod: Atomic Arrowz Estuary AAS-70UL (7", 3-10lb line weight, 3-14g cast weight, Full graphite)
Reel: Shimano Sedona FI 2500
Line: 8lb Braid (Backed with mono) , 8lb fluro leader

Again thanks for your help and any suggestions you could add to this setup would be great.

Cheers.

Excellent choice, good rod good reel and they pair together well. My mate is using exactly this setup though with 6lb. Nothing wrong with 8lb either if you already have it or feel it would give you a bit more confidence which is important too. 
I took some convincing to downsize from 10lb to 6lb but since doing so haven’t looked back. 6 is ample for most fish you’ll regularly encounter. Definitely enough for bream, flathead, whiting and I’ve seen kings landed on 6lb gear too.
 

[DerekD]

On 3/26/2022 at 5:12 PM, Noob-Fisho said:

Wow thanks for all the help guys, especially you DerekD. So I am still looking at my options but right now I am considering this setup.

Rod: Atomic Arrowz Estuary AAS-70UL (7", 3-10lb line weight, 3-14g cast weight, Full graphite)
Reel: Shimano Sedona FI 2500
Line: 8lb Braid (Backed with mono) , 8lb fluro leader

Again thanks for your help and any suggestions you could add to this setup would be great.

Cheers.

Hi Noob,

I've set several people up with this exact outfit and recommend it highly for the budget careful starter. I also own this exact outfit and bought two Sedonas (one spooled with 4lb and the other 8lb) for use with it depending on what I'm doing. I've since put an Stradic (covid present to myself) on the ArrowZ and it is a sweet combo. It is my go to outfit for soft plastics, squid jigs, twisties, blades, etc.

I'd still go a little lighter on the braid as it is stronger than you realise and if you get into the lighter plastics it will cost you casting distance. Suggest 0.06mm diameter braid (which will be 6lb or 4lb depending on the manufacturer).

Look around as I've seen the rods on special for $100 but usually they are $120 to $130.

 

Edited April 1, 2022 by DerekD

[JamoDamo]

If you want a good rod for the price buy the new 21 TD Tierra 1-2kg or the 1.5-3kg. I've got the ultralight version and I love it! Awesome rods, they have an infeet reel seat, a td hyper blank and fuji stainless steel fazlite k guides. Super sensitive and i've never had a problem with it. 

[JamoDamo]

I reckon a sedona and a tierra would be perfect to start out!

[Noob-Fisho]

@DerekD @Little_Flatty What weight/size jighead and plastic should I be using for flathead? I was thinking (1/8 - 1/4, 3/0 jig head) and (3" - 4" soft paddle/curly tail)?

[DerekD]

Hi Mate,

For that outfit don't start super light (1/12, 1/16/ 1/24 or similar) with the lures. You will find yourself birdnesting the reel now and then as it is a challenge winding on under tension. I usually advise not going lighter than 1/8oz when starting out with this sort of set-up.

My go to is the TT tournament series jig heads all in the 1H hook and weights 1/4 or 1/6 or 1/8 (least often) and a Berkley 3" minnow. I think the 3/0 hook you are talking about is a little big for the plastics we are talking about. Hold the jighead and hook alongside the plastic to make sure it looks right. I like having the hook come out in what would be the shoulder of the fish.

I'm also a big fan of the grubs (generally 2" or 2.5") matched with a Gamakatsu 211 Ball head 1/8oz and size #1 or #2 hook.

Big thing for flathead is covering new ground. Don't fish the same trajectory 10 times in a row. Fan your casts out. Maybe change lures once and then change location (might only be 10m difference) and then repeat. I'll start with the 1/4oz as it gives me the most range. Make sure the lure gets to the bottom (look for bow in line). One or two short sharp flicks will get it back into the water column and then keep in contact (no slack in the line) with the lure as it swims back down to the bottom. From there I'll down size the jighead weight to 1/6oz and then maybe 1/8oz for the extra hang time and then I find I start to pick up more of other species such as snapper and bream.

For the 4 inch plastics I'll generally go for a size 1/0 hook. The paddletails and wriggler type plastics are a great starting point as they create their own movement in the water. For the minnows I like to use I have to create a lot of that movement but I can also chase pelagic on them because I can imitate the baitfish so well. This sort of movement often gets their attention (I make sure they are rigged straight):

https://youtu.be/WjGS6SjfDUs

 

Edited April 3, 2022 by DerekD

[Little_Flatty]

7 hours ago, DerekD said:

Big thing for flathead is covering ground. I'll start with the 1/4oz as it gives me the most range. Make sure the lure gets to the bottom (look for bow in line). One or two short sharp flicks will get it back into the water column and then keep in contact (no slack in the line) with the lure as it swims back down to the bottom.

This is the number one set of tips for flathead luring (and SP fishing in general), all in a few sentences.

80% of my jigheads are size 1 as they suit the 3 inch minnows that Derek mentioned (that's my go to lure as well). I don't care about colour - literally will buy out an entire shop's stock when they are on sale.