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New Light or UL Rod Recommendations?


linewetter

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Hey guys.  I've currently got a 3-5kg combo that I got from <retailer removed>.  I'm mainly using it for soft plastics and targeting the common fish like bream, flathead, whiting, pinkies, etc.  I'm learning that my 3-5kg is kind of overkill for fish like these so I want to purchase a lighter rod so I can have a bit more fun with the fish and also cast lighter lures (like 1/16 jigheads & ~2g topwaters) farther.

 

Do you guys have any recommendations for something in the $200-250 range?  Will the 1-3kg rod make a big difference in the fun factor?  I'm still new to fishing and really love it but don't have much time to fish so want to make the limited time I have the most enjoyable it can be at a reasonable cost. 

 

I have been researching a bit on my own and so many choices - have looked over the Daiwa TD Infeet, Daiwa TD Black, Shimano Anarchy, Atomic Arrowz.  All diff price points but looking for something that is good value - something where spending that extra small bit is worth it for what you get in return.

 

I'm planning to move over my Shimano Sienna 2500HG FG from the combo over to the 1-3kg rod but reel recommendations are welcome too if it would improve my experience dramatically.  Have looked into the Shimano Nasci & Shimano Stradic but not sure if I'm ready to spend the additional if the Sienna would do the job fine for my purposes right now.

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Hi linewetter (I like the name). Firstly, welcome to Fishraider. What I am going to suggest will likely get shot down in flames by others, but hey, we're all entitled to an opinion.

You are relatively new to fishing and unlikely to spend 40 hours a week fishing so why spend a heap on rod and reel?... get some lures, soft plastics and have fun. You can always upgrade later. Just remember, you don't need a Rolls Royce to drive to the shops.

Firstly, if you're getting a 1-3kg graphite rod, your 2500 Sienna will be a little big/heavy to match with the rod. So look at a Sienna (or similar) in about 1000 size range. Put some backing on the reel then about 100-150m of 2-3kg braid and a leader of about 6lb. Raider rods are reasonable value for starting out. The 1-3kg spinning rod is available in 6ft6in or 7ft2in. Just remember that with graphite rods not to "high stick lift".

That would be my suggestion for you, let's see what others have to say.

Good luck with your fishing journey. I will look forward to reading your reports.

Cheers, bn

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Hi @linewetterThe base Infeet models are really good value as are the atomic arrows rods. 
I do have a bias towards the Infeet models being a Daiwa fan boy. You might find some tackle shops have a run out on the older 2020 models as the new 23 models are arriving in stock. 
If your landbased it might pay to get a longer rod 7-8 foot rather than a shorter one to cover more distance.

As @big Neil says you might need a smaller reel to pair it

Happy to talk more about specific Infeet models if you want to message me

Edited by Bennyg78
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Hi @linewetter

Oh this is a fun and interesting question as it opens a lot of discussion points. Firstly, because there are a few things to consider when getting a light lure outfit I'm going to link to this one:

https://community.deckee.com/topic/95582-article-your-first-light-lure-outfit/

While I've been doing a lot of light lure fishing since I started with soft plastics it is in the last few years I've been spending a whole lot of time with the hard body lures due to a brilliant introduction to topwater fishing article by Fishraider @Niall : https://community.deckee.com/topic/90391-bream-on-topwater-lures/

Depending on what braid you are using your outfit will almost be too heavy for the species you are discussing but an epiphany I had last year is that will apply to most outfits you are talking about based on the amazing properties of braid. I set up an outfit a year or so ago to get the absolute most out of light lures. I picked up a braid with a PE0.5 rating (skinniest I could find). It still breaks at over 12lbs (5.44kg). Those fish you are talking about will be way less than that. It casts light hard body lures (say around 4gram) insane distances (say up to about 35m). Knot strength will be a factor in breaking strength. I teach my students the FG for the joiner knot and the uni knot at the lure end.

This outfit won't be all about casting long distances as you will also want to fish at closer ranges, especially when around structure, so then casting accuracy becomes important. The casting distance does help on the long sandflats I also have access to.

For casting light lures this is what I'd be considering

  • A longer rather than shorter rod. Rod tip length helps with rod tip speed which helps lure speed which helps with distance. For $156 I bought a Crucis 4 piece 7 foot 8 inches rod with a short butt (I'm still a fan of short rod butts as it helps with the way I work lures).
  • As @big Neil said, a 1000 sized reel. The smaller diameter spool in my opinion means the line has less distance to travel to come off it equating in less lost energy. I have the Stradic and the Nasci (least expensive reel in the Shimano range with a wind in handle which means less play in the long term). If you hop on line and do your research take advantage of the match best price plus 10% offer you can get the Nasic for $154 minus a further 10% off at one of the big chain stores.
  • Line will be a pretty big factor in casting lighter lures. While I set the original outfit up with Shangrila Pe0.5 braid for $50 per 100m roll when I respooled the other 1000 reel I went bulk spool braid with Siglon 8lb PE0.6 multi-coloured (lets me see how far I'm casting with the different lures) braid all the way. I got 200m on the 1000 spool for about $42. I fish flats where there is still a chance on a salmon or king and I didn't have to stuff around with getting the backing right so the spool was packed optimally. This slightly larger diameter line still casts brilliantly.

This outfit has been a weapon and a joy to use. Watching other people cast it is a laugh when they are shocked at how far it casts. Biggest fish landed on it to date was a 73cm flathead (yes it was released).

Just some things to think about.

Derek

PS. Don't go too light on the rod lure rating, 1 to 5 gram lure weights is a bit too limiting in my opinion. Sometimes I want to send a 10 gram halco twisty or similar out there and in my case I can use the same outfit to do so. For the time being stay clear of the ultralight outfits till you work out the limitations of the light outfit or a have a fair bit of spare money to get some niche outfits.

PPS. @Bennyg78 and I have gone head to head on casting our respective preferred outfits and the difference comes down to bugger all on average. One of us might pull ahead slightly by a few meters on a specific cast when everything comes together but essentially we are equal. Think he had a pretty good casting teacher and if he ever starts substantially outcasting me I'll be asking him for lessons.

Edited by DerekD
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5 hours ago, big Neil said:

Hi linewetter (I like the name). Firstly, welcome to Fishraider. What I am going to suggest will likely get shot down in flames by others, but hey, we're all entitled to an opinion.

You are relatively new to fishing and unlikely to spend 40 hours a week fishing so why spend a heap on rod and reel?... get some lures, soft plastics and have fun. You can always upgrade later. Just remember, you don't need a Rolls Royce to drive to the shops.

Firstly, if you're getting a 1-3kg graphite rod, your 2500 Sienna will be a little big/heavy to match with the rod. So look at a Sienna (or similar) in about 1000 size range. Put some backing on the reel then about 100-150m of 2-3kg braid and a leader of about 6lb. Raider rods are reasonable value for starting out. The 1-3kg spinning rod is available in 6ft6in or 7ft2in. Just remember that with graphite rods not to "high stick lift".

That would be my suggestion for you, let's see what others have to say.

Good luck with your fishing journey. I will look forward to reading your reports.

Cheers, bn

I agree - part of me is hesitant thinking I should just stick with what I have and use it.  On the other hand while I've been having a lot of fun reeling in fish, I can't help but feel like it could be even better if I had a lighter rod.  I watch a lot of Youtube videos and man it just makes small fish look like a big battle still to reel in.  I've only caught smaller fish so far, biggest was about a 42cm flatty, but I'm just imagining it being that much more fun haha.  Maybe I'm wrong though and it won't be much different after all.

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4 hours ago, Bennyg78 said:

Hi @linewetterThe base Infeet models are really good value as are the atomic arrows rods. 
I do have a bias towards the Infeet models being a Daiwa fan boy. You might find some tackle shops have a run out on the older 2020 models as the new 23 models are arriving in stock. 
If your landbased it might pay to get a longer rod 7-8 foot rather than a shorter one to cover more distance.

As @big Neil says you might need a smaller reel to pair it

Happy to talk more about specific Infeet models if you want to message me

I'll send you a PM.  I've been comparing all these rods and trying to figure out the differences and what makes one more expensive than the others.  So many choices..

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5 hours ago, DerekD said:

Hi @linewetter

Oh this is a fun and interesting question as it opens a lot of discussion points. Firstly, because there are a few things to consider when getting a light lure outfit I'm going to link to this one:

https://community.deckee.com/topic/95582-article-your-first-light-lure-outfit/

While I've been doing a lot of light lure fishing since I started with soft plastics it is in the last few years I've been spending a whole lot of time with the hard body lures due to a brilliant introduction to topwater fishing article by Fishraider @Niall : https://community.deckee.com/topic/90391-bream-on-topwater-lures/

Depending on what braid you are using your outfit will almost be too heavy for the species you are discussing but an epiphany I had last year is that will apply to most outfits you are talking about based on the amazing properties of braid. I set up an outfit a year or so ago to get the absolute most out of light lures. I picked up a braid with a PE0.5 rating (skinniest I could find). It still breaks at over 12lbs (5.44). Those fish you are talking about will be way less than that. It casts light hard body lures (say around 4gram) insane distances (say up to about 35m). Knot strength will be a factor in breaking strength. I teach my students the FG for the joiner knot and the uni knot at the lure end.

This outfit won't be all about casting long distances as you will also want to fish at closer ranges, especially when around structure, so then casting accuracy becomes important. The casting distance does help on the long sandflats I also have access to.

For casting light lures this is what I'd be considering

  • A longer rather than shorter rod. Rod tip length helps with rod tip speed which helps lure speed which helps with distance. For $156 I bought a Crucis 4 piece 7 foot 8 inches rod with a short butt (I'm still a fan of short rod butts as it helps with the way I work lures).
  • As @big Neil said, a 1000 sized reel. The smaller diameter spool in my opinion means the line has less distance to travel to come off it equating in less lost energy. I have the Stradic and the Nasci (least expensive reel in the Shimano range with a wind in handle which means less play in the long term). If you hop on line and do your research take advantage of the match best price plus 10% offer you can get the Nasic for $154 minus a further 10% off at one of the big chains.
  • Line will be a pretty big factor in casting lighter lures. While I set the original outfit up with Shangrila Pe0.5 braid for $50 per 100m roll when I respooled the other 1000 reel I went bulk spool braid with Siglon 8lb PE0.6 multi-coloured (lets me see how far I'm casting with the different lures) braid all the way. I got 200m on the 1000 spool for about $42. I fish flats where there is still a chance on a salmon or king and I didn't have to stuff around with getting the backing right so the spool was packed optimally. This slightly larger diameter line still casts brilliantly.

This outfit has been a weapon and a joy to use. Watching other people cast it is a laugh when they are shocked at how far it casts. Biggest fish landed on it to date was a 73cm flathead (yes it was released).

Just some things to think about.

Derek

PS. Don't go too light on the rod lure rating, 1 to 5 gram lure weights is a bit too limiting in my opinion. Sometimes I want to send a 10 gram halco twisty or similar out there and in my case I can use the same outfit to do so. For the time being stay clear of the ultralight outfits till you work out the limitations of the light outfit or a have a fair bit of spare money to get some niche outfits.

PPS. @Bennyg78 and I have gone head to head on casting our respective preferred outfits and the difference comes down to bugger all on average. One of us might pull ahead slightly by a few meters on a specific cast when everything comes together but essentially we are equal. Think he had a pretty good casting teacher and if he ever starts substantially outcasting me I'll be asking him for lessons.

That first post you linked - great info in there.  I never even considered things like the butt length of a rod.  Mine feels quite long because I keep hitting my forearm too!  I see you prefer the 2-4kg range instead of 1-3kg in that post and also recommend against the UL for now.  Do you think the 2-4kg would be too similar to my 3-5kg to make it worth getting the 2-4kg at that point?  My current rod is 6'6" so I would like to get a rod that's at least 7' next, so I know there's gonna be more factors than just the line rating affecting things but so hard for me to decide.  I just want to make sure I'm not overlapping too much with what I already have.  The one I have my eye on now is the Shimano Raider you recommended in that post at 7'6" 2-4kg in 2 piece.

I will also look into the 1000 size reels as you guys recommended.  Had not occurred to me that 2500 might be too big already.  Question though - if I do go for a 2-4kg rod, would a 2500 reel still be too big?  Or would that be okay actually?  

Can I also ask where you got your bulk braid spooled at?  I'm local to your area as well so it would be great to save some money if the shop still has the bulk braid they're spooling.

An aside - I've read so many of your posts on Deckee just browsing over the past month.  Cool to see you here!

Edited by linewetter
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Welcome @linewetter.

Some great advice here. I won't double up on what the others are saying but the main reasons WHY you would fish 1-3kg as opposed to 2-4kg are:

- You can cast lighter lures with lighter line

- The same lures (within reason) will cast further with a well matched 1-3kg outfit with appropriate braid, as compared with a 2-4kg outfit.

- Stealth - there are some fishing situations that call for the finest lines available. It's not just whether fish can 'see' the line, line diameter also affects the way that lures/baits sink or float in the water.

- The fun factor (as you've mentioned)

- The outfit is lighter to handle (but only marginally)

In practice, I'm more likely to grab a 2-4kg rod as it offers slightly more versatility than a 1-3kg (particularly on cast weight as Derek mentions), but I do own and use 1-3kg outfits quite regularly as well.

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Hi @linewetter

If you are interested and are able to get to either the lower north shore area or Drummoyne area at a time which suits both of us I can show you the gear and you can have a cast and a go. That should help make your decision easier. I have the 1000 and 2500 reels. Also have a 1500 reel in there somewhere. i've got several rods in the 1 to 4kg range. Usually they all live in the car too so I don't have to go out of my way for this.

It also means you can throw on some of the lures you are thinking of using and see what you can get out of well set up gear. Be warned that @Bennyg78 will try and steer you to the darkside with his Daiwa addiction. Having said that once you know how the gear handles it is easier to make an informed decision as to what suits you.

Which suburb are you based? I'd also like to see your casting technique as that has a pretty big impact on getting the most out of your outfits.

Regards,

Derek

PS. with a bit of planning you could meet both Benny and myself and make a comparison between the different outfits we use.

 

Edited by DerekD
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4 hours ago, linewetter said:

Do you think the 2-4kg would be too similar to my 3-5kg to make it worth getting the 2-4kg at that point?

What braid do you have on the 3-5kg? I'm especially interested in the diameter. I think the rod at 6 foot 6 will have a noticeable impact on casting range and the braid is the other factor.

I think it is still worth looking at the 2-4kg but it has to be the right one. There is an ArrowZ rod out there which sounds like it would make an excellent cross over for what you are after. It wasn't around when I got into the ArrowZ range. it has an extremely similar spec to the Raider Bream finesse I recommend but I suspect it will be a bit lighter.

For the 2-4kg range of rods a 2500 is my go to.

For the 1-3kg range then I seriously consider the 1000 sized reels. I've also noticed that for the topwater retrieve the reduced line retrieved per crank on a 1000 reel makes it easier for me to work the lures. To work the lure you are using small pulses of the rod tip. You have to pick up the slack between pulses. It is easier to do pick up small amounts of line with a smaller reel. Conversely, if I want high retrieve speed then I go larger reels as they pick up more line for one wind of the handle.

 

Edited by DerekD
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10 hours ago, DerekD said:

Hi @linewetter

If you are able to get to either the lower north shore area or Drummoyne area at a time which suits both of us I can show you the gear and you can have a cast and a go. That should help make your decision easier. I have the 1000 and 2500 reels. Also have a 1500 reel in there somewhere. i've got several rods in the 1 to 4kg range. Usually they all live in the car too so I don't have to go out of my way for this.

It also means you can throw on some of the lures you are thinking of using and see what you can get out of well set up gear. Be warned that @Bennyg78 will try and steer you to the darkside with his Daiwa addiction. Having said that once you know how the gear handles it is easier to make an informed decision as to what suits you.

Which suburb are you based? I'd also like to see your casting technique as that has a pretty big impact on getting the most out of your outfits.

Regards,

Derek

PS. with a bit of planning you could meet both Benny and myself and make a comparison between the different outfits we use.

 

The dark side is soo good 😉. Plus I’m a sucker for a good marketing campaign and hype!

@linewetter if you tee up a catch up with @DerekD I can bring a few different rods for you to have a look at. I have a few which are longer 1-4, 2-4 kg models and then Derek has a few as well. 

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11 hours ago, Little_Flatty said:

Welcome @linewetter.

Some great advice here. I won't double up on what the others are saying but the main reasons WHY you would fish 1-3kg as opposed to 2-4kg are:

- You can cast lighter lures with lighter line

- The same lures (within reason) will cast further with a well matched 1-3kg outfit with appropriate braid, as compared with a 2-4kg outfit.

- Stealth - there are some fishing situations that call for the finest lines available. It's not just whether fish can 'see' the line, line diameter also affects the way that lures/baits sink or float in the water.

- The fun factor (as you've mentioned)

- The outfit is lighter to handle (but only marginally)

In practice, I'm more likely to grab a 2-4kg rod as it offers slightly more versatility than a 1-3kg (particularly on cast weight as Derek mentions), but I do own and use 1-3kg outfits quite regularly as well.

An excellent reply Mike. Big tick...   bn

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I have owned 3 different models of UL Arrowz, and i personally think they are the best bang for buck rods you can get in the $100-200 range. The guides are high quality and i like the short butts used on most of the models. Of the other rods you've listed I've used a TD Black, and while they are a nice rod i couldn't reconcile the extra cost over an arrowz.

Another tip if you do end up buying a new smaller reel, allocate the greater part of the budget to the rod. Everyone loves a nice shiny reel that makes quality clicking noises, but the fact is that it is just a line holder. The rod (and line) will tell you a lot more about whats going on at the fishy end of your tackle!

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21 hours ago, DerekD said:

Hi @linewetter

If you are interested and are able to get to either the lower north shore area or Drummoyne area at a time which suits both of us I can show you the gear and you can have a cast and a go. That should help make your decision easier. I have the 1000 and 2500 reels. Also have a 1500 reel in there somewhere. i've got several rods in the 1 to 4kg range. Usually they all live in the car too so I don't have to go out of my way for this.

It also means you can throw on some of the lures you are thinking of using and see what you can get out of well set up gear. Be warned that @Bennyg78 will try and steer you to the darkside with his Daiwa addiction. Having said that once you know how the gear handles it is easier to make an informed decision as to what suits you.

Which suburb are you based? I'd also like to see your casting technique as that has a pretty big impact on getting the most out of your outfits.

Regards,

Derek

PS. with a bit of planning you could meet both Benny and myself and make a comparison between the different outfits we use.

 

Wow!  I really appreciate the offer!  I just started a new job (hence me wanting a new rod as a reward lol) and it's been hectic.  Once I've got a bit more settled and not having to work so much, I'd love to take you on the offer.  I'll reach out once I have a bit more consistency to be respectful of both of your times - don't want to end up committing when I'm not able to commit 100% yet.  

 

I definitely think my casting technique is not the best either though.  I'm pretty good at side casting but my overhead cast is 100% horrible and needs work.  My biggest issue with the overhead cast is that it seems like the lure flies up into a parabola then falls short.  I was trying to read on how to improve before...I was mostly using 1/16th & 1/12th jigs so maybe they are just too light for the rod I was using to really load up the rod?

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23 hours ago, DerekD said:

What braid do you have on the 3-5kg? I'm especially interested in the diameter. I think the rod at 6 foot 6 will have a noticeable impact on casting range and the braid is the other factor.

I think it is still worth looking at the 2-4kg but it has to be the right one. There is an ArrowZ rod out there which sounds like it would make an excellent cross over for what you are after. It wasn't around when I got into the ArrowZ range. it has an extremely similar spec to the Raider Bream finesse I recommend but I suspect it will be a bit lighter.

For the 2-4kg range of rods a 2500 is my go to.

For the 1-3kg range then I seriously consider the 1000 sized reels. I've also noticed that for the topwater retrieve the reduced line retrieved per crank on a 1000 reel makes it easier for me to work the lures. To work the lure you are using small pulses of the rod tip. You have to pick up the slack between pulses. It is easier to do pick up small amounts of line with a smaller reel. Conversely, if I want high retrieve speed then I go larger reels as they pick up more line for one wind of the handle.

 

I am using 15lb Pryml brand braid.  It's what the guys at <retailer removed> had set me up with as a complete beginner.  Now that I've gotten a bit more into fishing and know more, I see it's a bit overkill for the fish I'm after.  It doesn't list the PE number for this braid either.  I was thinking to replace the braid entirely with one of the ones you had posted about or maybe Daiwa J braid or Shimano's equivalent in 6lb.  Something with a small diameter PE for sure after reading your experience with the smaller diameters.

Is the Atomic ArrowZ rod you're referring to the Estuary AAS-270UL?  Or is it another model?  I would be interested in reading more about it just to learn more in general.  I'm particularly interested in the ArrowZ range now that I've learned they're made with shorter butts.  Do you know why certain rods are made with shorter/longer butts too?  I had watched a video on casting before and they made a connection to treating the rod as a lever to gain leverage to cast farther...was thinking maybe the longer butts help with that but had no idea if that's the case.

Edited by Little_Flatty
Retailer removed - see https://community.deckee.com/topic/97670-community-rule-6-promoting-businesses-not-related-to-deckee/#comment-745077
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14 hours ago, linewetter said:

I am using 15lb Pryml brand braid.  It's what the guys at <retailer removed> had set me up with as a complete beginner.  Now that I've gotten a bit more into fishing and know more, I see it's a bit overkill for the fish I'm after.  It doesn't list the PE number for this braid either.  I was thinking to replace the braid entirely with one of the ones you had posted about or maybe Daiwa J braid or Shimano's equivalent in 6lb.  Something with a small diameter PE for sure after reading your experience with the smaller diameters.

Is the Atomic ArrowZ rod you're referring to the Estuary AAS-270UL?  Or is it another model?  I would be interested in reading more about it just to learn more in general.  I'm particularly interested in the ArrowZ range now that I've learned they're made with shorter butts.  Do you know why certain rods are made with shorter/longer butts too?  I had watched a video on casting before and they made a connection to treating the rod as a lever to gain leverage to cast farther...was thinking maybe the longer butts help with that but had no idea if that's the case.

If Pryml braid I suspect it is also what I'd call a thicker braid for the line rating which won't be helping with your casting range. When you see what you can do with @Bennyg78 or my outfits it will be a huge eye opener. Changing the braid is a worthwhile move at some stage. You could also put a skinny 10lb on it. Siglon do a bulk spool of that in the multicolour and dang it casts. The store I went to to get some reels spooled up are out of the 8lb in the same series of line the last time I went to Mona Vale but they still had the 10lb.

The AAS-270UL is my go to light rod for harbour and day to day fishing but there is another I want to look at. It is the Arrowz Bream Flats Surface 7'6, 2 pc, 3 - 8lb and with a lure rating of 2-12grams. This would be the ArrowZ equal to the Raider Bream Finesse but I suspect with reduced weight.

My theory is that the longer butts in the lighter rods came about as a way of reducing overall weight of the rods. You will notice the counterweight on the bottom of the rod. The further you can get it away from the reel seat the lighter you can make the counterweight thus dropping the overall weight of the rod.

In the heavier rods the lever thing does make sense for both casting and working the lures or fighting the fish (you can tuck it under your arm during a long fight).

Edited by DerekD
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3 hours ago, DerekD said:

If Pryml braid I suspect it is also what I'd call a thicker braid for the line rating which won't be helping with your casting range. When you see what you can do with @Bennyg78 or my outfits it will be a huge eye opener. Changing the braid is a worthwhile move at some stage. You could also put a skinny 10lb on it. Siglon do a bulk spool of that in the multicolour and dang it casts. The store I went to to get some reels spooled up are out of the 8lb in the same series of line the last time I went there but they still had the 10lb.

The AAS-270UL is my go to light rod for harbour and day to day fishing but there is another I want to look at. It is the Arrowz Bream Flats Surface 7'6, 2 pc, 3 - 8lb and with a lure rating of 2-12grams. This would be the ArrowZ equal to the Raider Bream Finesse but I suspect with reduced weight.

My theory is that the longer butts in the lighter rods came about as a way of reducing overall weight of the rods. You will notice the counterweight on the bottom of the rod. The further you can get it away from the reel seat the lighter you can make the counterweight thus dropping the overall weight of the rod.

In the heavier rods the lever thing does make sense for both casting and working the lures or fighting the fish (you can tuck it under your arm during a long fight).

Thanks again for your advice. I appreciate it a lot, it’s really helpful to read into the why behind things like you’ve explained it. Honestly if you’ve got other posts that you found helpful or anything like that please do share. I have a couple top water lures that I haven’t used much and after reading the top water post you linked, I’m pretty keen to give them a go again. I’d enjoy reading any other posts you’ve found helpful because I like really learning about the why behind things.

I also may just do that…respool my reel with the Siglon bulk braid just to get something lighter on then I can at least enjoy some of the benefits until I get the other rod down the road. 

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If you haven't discovered it yet spend some time in the articles section. I've got a few other articles in there including squidding and effective casting. There is also a wealth of knowledge from other Raiders.

If you do track down the bulk spool I'm talking about then I suggest about 50m of backing as you will still get about 200m of the 10lb line on a 2500 spool. Also request they use an FG knot when joining the backing to the mainline as it lays flatter and is less likely to grab if and when you get down that far.

PM me if you need some further direction/assistance.

Edited by DerekD
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On 1/15/2024 at 8:57 AM, R E G I C Y C L E said:

I have owned 3 different models of UL Arrowz, and i personally think they are the best bang for buck rods you can get in the $100-200 range. The guides are high quality and i like the short butts used on most of the models. Of the other rods you've listed I've used a TD Black, and while they are a nice rod i couldn't reconcile the extra cost over an arrowz.

Another tip if you do end up buying a new smaller reel, allocate the greater part of the budget to the rod. Everyone loves a nice shiny reel that makes quality clicking noises, but the fact is that it is just a line holder. The rod (and line) will tell you a lot more about whats going on at the fishy end of your tackle!

I've been thinking about your last paragraph a lot - helped me save some money for now at least!  I was thinking of doing both but am going to just get a rod I think first.  I had thought reel mattered a lot as well but after doing some reading around here...looks like rod and the line would be a better place to allocate my spending.  

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23 hours ago, DerekD said:

If you haven't discovered it yet spend some time in the articles section. I've got a few other articles in there including squidding and effective casting. There is also a wealth of knowledge from other Raiders.

If you do track down the bulk spool I'm talking about then I suggest about 50m of backing as you will still get about 200m of the 10lb line on a 2500 spool. Also request they use an FG knot when joining the backing to the mainline as it lays flatter and is less likely to grab if and when you get down that far.

PM me if you need some further direction/assistance.

I found the articles section and went down a rabbit hole for a few hours tonight.  A lot of good reading in there from you and other posters.  I read your casting article as well - I'm excited to put it into practice the next time I find myself out there.  I didn't think about things like how my wrist aligns with my forearm but it makes sense.  All these little things that have an effect with following through with the cast effectively.  

Last weekend was my first time lure fishing for several hours in one go as well.  I noticed my index finger was getting uncomfortable from reaching so much for the line when I got ready to cast.  I'm definitely going to try the grip you showed in the article as well.  Glad you took the time and effort to put together these articles, very helpful for the overall fishing community!

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On 1/15/2024 at 8:57 AM, R E G I C Y C L E said:

Another tip if you do end up buying a new smaller reel, allocate the greater part of the budget to the rod. Everyone loves a nice shiny reel that makes quality clicking noises, but the fact is that it is just a line holder. The rod (and line) will tell you a lot more about whats going on at the fishy end of your tackle!

I can't agree more.

Presently I'm fishing with a $50 fly reel on a $500 RRP rod. Now, in bread and butter fly fishing for luderick and flathead, the reel doesn't really do much at all - much less than on a spinning outfit - but I think that this example illustrates the point. The reel needs to be good enough (particularly the drag), but it's the rod and line that do the majority of the hard work. And even though my rod was expensive, it was money well spent.

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8 hours ago, linewetter said:

I've been thinking about your last paragraph a lot - helped me save some money for now at least!  I was thinking of doing both but am going to just get a rod I think first.  I had thought reel mattered a lot as well but after doing some reading around here...looks like rod and the line would be a better place to allocate my spending.  

I can't say I've always followed that rule myself, mostly cos I'm a sucker for new gear and marketing. These days though reels like the sienna offer smooth drag for a low price, and the benefits of buying reels above that price point diminish quickly. As @DerekD has stressed, line is very important. Allow enough in the budget for quality line. I've recently started using saltiga x8 in pe 0.6 (11lb) and 0.8 (15lb), and the difference is very noticeable even when compared to J-braid x8.

8 hours ago, Little_Flatty said:

I can't agree more.

Presently I'm fishing with a $50 fly reel on a $500 RRP rod. Now, in bread and butter fly fishing for luderick and flathead, the reel doesn't really do much at all - much less than on a spinning outfit - but I think that this example illustrates the point. The reel needs to be good enough (particularly the drag), but it's the rod and line that do the majority of the hard work. And even though my rod was expensive, it was money well spent.

Yes with fly fishing the reel does even less work... until the day you hook a kingie on the flats 😂

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