Nolongeramember

Hi mate. I have a V1 and I did this exact conversion when the ipilot just came out. Back then Minn Kota couldn’t tell me if it will work or not but I took the risk. It’s been working perfectly ever since and I recommend it if you want to save money from buying a whole new Ipilot unit. I had to change the board to a V2 and then fit the kit like you said. A few things I recommend after owning this for so long is to solder every electrical joint on the whole unit including the board. You have to cut some of the original plastic and then seal with sealant but it’s worth it to avoid loose wire problems that make the unit do silly things on its own or just not work and ruining your fishing day. Good luck.

As I said earlier yting, Shimano reels have had this issue for a very long time. Even old model Stella’s like mine. The problem is because they use 2 pieces for the bail arm which then have to have a join. Because the metal is so thin, this join is prone to having exposed sharp edges. Some come from the factory with a some what ok join and some not so good. Better reels have a full one piece bail arm and no join. These parts are pressed together and the only fix I know of is putting something over the top. Super glue won’t do much good. Epoxy or what I used stuff called JB Weld.

That guide in not right. The lean one is on the right and optimal is on the left. Also, plugs are just a guide IMO. There are many instances where plug colour doesn’t tell the full story. Andy, the engine in the video sounds to me exactly the same the whole time. It looks like it’s running at low revs and roughish, which is normal for an old school 2 stroke. It should run smooth and clear once you increase revs. If it doesn’t there is an issue.

I think I know what you are talking about. It’s where the bail wire meets the roller. Shimano reels have had this problem for years and you probably got one of the worse ones. Newer and the higher priced reels have a one piece design, eliminating the join. I would take it back for sure and explain the problem and demand a refund or fix. If it’s sharp and cutting the line then it should be clear to see the fault and there is nothing for them to argue about. I have an old Stella with a similar 2 piece design. I never had the line get caught there but just to be sure I mixed up some 2 part epoxy type metal and stuck a small amount around the join. Its been good for years of use. I can get a picture if your interested.

Ok I’ll leave you guys oto solve this problem 😣 I’m off this one. I still think he has an issue somewhere else and this bracket changing is creating other issues and covering up the original problem.

This has softened the steering but now there is a new problem. I’m no expert but to me the reduced lock is there to stay if you leave the bracket in the forward position. Changing the drag link to the correct length wont give you more lock, it will just even each side. Looking at the second video, I would not be satisfied with that amount of lock to lock that you now have.

Definitely try changing the treble to a single. Make sure it’s not too small either. You want it significantly bigger than one of the hooks on the treble. I use a single for metals on tailor and the hook ups per strike I reckon are the same but the landing rate and ease of hook removal are definitely better. I think the reason they stay pinned better is because a treble has 3 small hooks which only grab a small amount each, a lot of the time with only one. A single has one large hook that grabs a much bigger chunk when it goes in.

As I read it, the only thing he has changed is the cable and the rotory helm. It was smooth before this. A few other ideas to check. Andy, check the end of the steering cable where it goes in and out of the motor tube is not rubbing against the inside of the motor tube or something else when it’s connected. Check the new rotory helm and new cable are compatible with their gears or however they interact with each other. Is it still stiff when everything is connected and you try to turn the steering by pulling the motor? Is there any kind of tension or pressure on the cable end when connecting up the drag link? Disconnect things one by one until you find the culprit. The helm rotor, lay the cable straight across the boat and try and turn the motor etc. My guess is still one of the new parts has a fault with it. Edit, check the drag link/ cable end connection is not binding.

I agree it will make the steering easier due to the extra leverage, but one thing that might be an issue is the throw of the arm will be increased to turn the motor. He might not have full lock side to side in the other hole. Also, it doesn’t explain why the steering was totally fine with the current setup and the original cable. There must be something else going on.

This is a good question. Just to clear things up, there is ping speed and chart speed. 2 separate things. Ping speed should always be set as fast as possible. That way you get the most detail. It’s more or less an estimate (for me) to match the boat speed to the chart speed. When I want to get a good picture of things I travel at a slow walking pace and set the chart speed to “look” like a waking pace along the bottom. A too fast chart speed will “stretch” the picture and a too slow chart speed will make things look narrower than they really are. Without getting technical, just remember that your chart speed has to be moving along across the screen. It’s no good if it’s moving really slow or not at all, and this is what happens when a sounder does not have enough power. At anchor it’s ok to have the chart speed slow.

Was the old cable turning smooth/ freely in the same mounting position? If all those things check out as being smooth as you say, I think you have either a faulty or cheaply made cable or rotary helm. It seems like as soon as you put some pressure on it, it becomes stiff. Could also be the wrong ratio at the rotary helm. Is the gear pattern/ ratio the same as your old one?

Yeah me too. Bimini was left up and I got charged extra. I don’t think they are randomly charging boat trailers the extra. Something must have tripped the limits to charge to class B.

Can you explain further how this bow and arrow technique works to free snagged jigs? I usually just continually yank and yank with the rod until it rips free.

That is one nice Flatty. Good on her 😉 I love seeing fisherwomen catching fish. Looking at the picture I would say a genuine 90cm as well.

You will feel snags or the bottom touching your lure (when you next lift it) when you let it sink too far. Remember how long you let it sink for in that spot.

Hi. Squid don’t “strike” a lure with any noticeable force. They just reach out and grab hold of it. A squid will grab the lure on the slack line when you are letting it sink. You won’t feel the take. You will feel the weight of the squid on your next lift or jig flick. This also pins the spikes in. Also, from my squid fishing experience, (a lot) the guy that can keep his jig flicking just off the bottom, not going too high and not fouling the bottom will get the most squid.

Where did you see that Jim? Just picturing how it works, I can’t see how it would put any extra twist. It won’t be any different to closing manually.

When launching, I back down as least as possible to get the boat into the water. Depending on boat size, but a small tinny will float in very skinny water. This way you minimise the area of wetting the trailer.

Why do you soak them? Fresh caught squid has a taste and texture (awesome snap when you bite it) that you can’t beat anywhere.

I’m no qualified pro either mate. Just know stuff from experience. If you can, you need to check if power is getting to the starter when you turn the key. Fairly easy with a multimeter and a helper.

If it is the in fact the tow hitch making the sound, he should be able to lift it by hand and replicate the loose noise on a light trailer like that. I’m guessing the hitch and the tow ball are not perfectly matched to each other in size/ shape.

First up, is it making any kind of sound at all when you turn the switch to start?

Electric is going to be VERY slow going. Much better to get a small petrol engine. Fuel costs hardly anything for one of those if you get a four.

Nice work mate. Can I ask, what is that jig in the last picture? I like it.

I don’t know how in the world you can “forget” you are towing something, regardless of the weight? What happens when you cut a corner because you ‘forgot’ you were towing a trailer?