BWV

What size is the filler hose? And what size is the breather hose?

2000hp

7 marine have announced a 627hp outboard.

Rumours are flying in Miami boat show as to what Mercury are about to release, it's looks like a 400 verado. Something also happening in the the 75-200 range aswell. It will be interesting as what yamaha will do. Also 7 marine rumour mill is also suggesting an outboard anywhere from 600-800hp.

Sorry for the typo, ml was ment to be mg. Hydrocarbons do really work like that, they are all calculated from 15c and measured by weight as the volume changes with temperature changes and vice versa. At 15c 1m3 is equal to at 1000l, but at 20c it is not as you have to apply Volume correction factor and weight correction factor. Just because you have a 65l or 6500l tank doesn't mean you'll get that a out of fuel in it. You will with water though.

Of water, it is less for ULP as the density is around 0.71@ 20C. 1000 cm3 will give you 710ml at 20C. The amount will change will temperature changes.

Fish about or seamen

Also could be what's called a "hot soak vapour lock" they'll need to check the fuel cooler for a blockage. There is a canister kit available for your engine. I am pretty sure Yamaha has addressed this problem though and there is a technical bulletin about the issue. Yours being around 12 months old I doubt it could be this issue.

What's your idle RPM? Could be a few things, first check would be fuel filters and the VST filter. A sensor could be playing up, they will need to plug it into a computer and that will show up the faulty sensor. You may need to do a throttle body synchronisation. With around 100 hrs on it, it should be a pretty simple solution.

If your engine is set up correctly they will achieve absolutely nothing as they will be clear of the water. Waste of time and money.

Just build a bigger shed!

Raymarine and Furuno, both good gear

Let us know how you go fishing on the noosa river, I am taking the boat up for the first time in November and are flying blind at this stage.

I thought 250 was max, no it won't be void. Just tell them what engine you have on it. They'll either accept or deny.

Thought that might be the case, you really want to be seeing 5800rpm with the f150. They are a super reliable engine and probably the best 150 ever produced but it is going to be working very hard on that boat and shorten the engine life. 2 options i see is to buy the boat and cost in a repower with a 200-250hp or walk.

What did it rev out at? And what speed? 33 kts? Little bit on the slow side and would struggle in a bit of swell and weight on board. Which would hurt your fuel ecomeny. Trim tabs a good but they add drag when in use.

Outboards are already a very high performance engine, but a direct answer is yes. There is a company that will sell chips for newer tech engines and you can port older engines. I had a 2.4 merc oval ported and if was producing 270hp compare to a 240hp bridge ported engine, stock hp was 200. Reliability really suffered and it's not worth it.

Probably needs minimum 200hp

The yamaha 150 actually puts out over 160hp, stronghest 150 on the market. Google the weight of it and it should tell you or email sea swirl. Yamaha might have a performance bulliten on it also, I have always found the yamaha one to be fairly accurate.

It's skewed towards commercial shipping rather than pleasure boating, to be honest I wouldn't waste my time reading it as you wouldn't gain much out of it. I have only referenced it when going into a port where I haven't been before as part of the passage plan. Yeah they are different. You'll find references on your electronic charts as the are probably Rastor charts which are scanned versions of paper charts. You would probably get more out of the Alan Lucas books, "Cruising the NSW Coast" amongst others, which are tailored more towards the pleasure boating industry and a far easier to read.

I have it, but not electronic copy, I do have an electronic copy of the "NP100 The Mariners Handbook". Why are you after it?

Most rubbers contain carbon, carbon will eat though the stainless and aluminium pretty quickly. If you are going to use rubber you need one that is carbon free. You should use Duralac or Tefgel. It's not perfect but it works well.

Strength maybe a concern, it all depends on how the vessel is constructed and where it gets it strength from. It may change the vessels centre of gravity with weight being removed from the bow and change the trim of the vessel, may have no effect at all may have a huge effect on the vessels ride and watertight integrity. You really need to give us more info on type, size of the boat and a few photos of the boat both externally and internally.

Hi guys, Everything I have said in this thread I standby, I have seen it with my own eyes. In saying that we were very happy with our Hornet. There are other things which could be improved with the boats as well but it will take the thread in another direction and away from the original substance of the post. Huey don't bow out your opinion is highly valued in these threads and welcomed by all. We may have difference of opinions which all makes for a healthy and informative thread. On the subject of the rubber in the pictures, most rubber contains carbon and the carbon in the rubber will eat though alloy and stainless steal in a pretty quick time frame, I don't know what type of rubber is used on your boats in the photos but it also a question that should be asked. There are very few rubber products that don't contain carbon and they are the only ones which should be used in the marine environment. I agree with the Durlac statement as well, it works very well. Although we aren't using that much anymore as I believe there was some OHS issues with it. We have started using and requesting Tefgel product and are seeing excellent results. Our many concern is making sure no dissimilar metals contacted each other. There are plenty of steal hulled boats with aluminium super structures which are bolted together with no problems. They just ensure that there is no dissimilar metals contacting each other.

Ok let say they are painted correctly, can or should it be done better? Yes with out a doubt! To have such a common occurrence with defective paint systems on their vessels screams out to me that something is missing! I find it astonishing that in 2014 that paint systems are failing within 12 months even 2 years on alloy boats. It all points to short cuts in my eyes. Yet other brands aren't failing you mentioned Extreme, I am not familiar with them but I doubt you see the amount of problems with paint systems on those vessels to the previous mentioned vessels? Yes we can agree to disagree Now we could of all over looked the cause of the problems and we just are reacting to the symptoms... How do they earth their electronics? Straight to the alloy hull? Food for thought......