BWV

Cheers mate

My point was that it should be and can be painted correctly. We pay absolute top dollar for everything in Australia anyway and I think we deserve a product to be on comparison for the price, but we are constantly supplied equipment which in my opinion has had short cuts taken because the market allows it and we have little choice in the maritime sector here in Australia. That's one reason more people are buying boats and supplies from overseas. I'd rather pay a fraction more, and let's be honest how much extra is it going to be? 1-3% extra? Than have problems with the paint system and presentation of a new boat within the first 12 months.

Crap, we just had a paint sample analysed of a quintrex Top Ender that has the paint flaking off if! And guess what? No etch primer! It confirmed what was long suspected. But it's in writing that (simplified version)they don't accept claims for paint problems I was employed to commission the build of a 125ft alloy vessel at Austal/Oceanfast in WA a few yrs ago and it's paint system have a warranty of 2 years against all defects, we had no problems. So alloy brands do warranty paint systems. Telwater and others just choose to use a system which I and many others think is well below a satisfactory standard and then choose not to standby a part of their product. I do believe that no alloy boat show be painted as the alloy creates it's own natural barrier against oxidisation by oxidising. Once the first layer of oxidisation is formed no another oxidisation will occur as it blocks any oxygen getting to the alloy and retards the chemical reaction. So don't wipe off that chalky layer on your alloy boat as it's protecting it.

I always thought Northstar was purchased by one of the companies that falls under the Brunswick Corp. and it was renamed Navico. Who runs it now mate? Or where have I got mixed up? Brunswick boats where all fitted with Northstar around 2007-2009 maybe and once that stock dried up the higher end boats of the Brunswick corp where no longer fitted with Northstar. Navico products were fitted on the lower end boats that fell under the Brunswick umbrella. No sure if they still are.

Stay away from Navico, it was excellent gear when it was Northstar but then Brunswick bought it and then it turn to crap. Personally I like Raymarine and Furuno gear follow by Simrad, Hummingbird and Lowrance. You and others will have a different order for what ever reason. But the performance of the units often comes down to how the receivers are set up and the quality of them. eg. GPS antenna and Transducers and yes this is somewhere were the more expensive it is the better they will be. With GPS's people will often have the DOP, GDOP, HDOP figure set way to high or low and have the DGPS turned off which all affect accuracy. Timing is another problem although it's not always adjustable, the receiver should have all the information it needs in about 75-125 nanoseconds for a accurate fix then is "dumbed down" by user settings and quality of the system in use. Transducers it's pretty simple select the correct gain and frequency and (tune it further if you can). A 600 watt isn't going to match it with a 1KW or 3KW and price plays a big difference in quality. If your only fishing bays get the 600 it your off the shelf get 1 KW minimum. If you must have DI and SI and want quality you'll have to pay for it.

What I find completely astonishing with quintrex (telwater) is they use no primer on their paint systems and then offer no warranty on defects on the paint system when they are using the paint system outside of the specification and guidelines that are recommended by the paint suppliers. There should be no oxidisation on the paint system within the first year on a good paint system! I don't know of any paint that can be applied to alloy that is primarily used in the saltwater environment with out any primer what so ever, and yet Telwater think is acceptable! If your considering a Telwater boat and want it painted get someone else to do it. Their paint system is below 3rd world quality and completely unacceptable for the price of there vessels. Our 475 Hornet was painted in ETec blue by a panel better using primer and it's was in the same condition when it was sold as when it was first painted with no oxidisation what so ever., Maybe 5-7 years later.....

Have used flowscan, needed calibrating all the time, was a pain.

Here is the link to see what your true horsepower output of your outboard is http://www.epa.gov/otaq/certdata.htm#marinesi They have changed the forms around 2011 and I am not quite sure how to work out the hp output from 2011 onwards, there seems to be information missing. You'll find the output power quoted in KW/hr so multiply that figure by 1.341= true horsepower for your motor. Suzuki DF140 = 138 hp Suzuki DF150 = 147 hp Yamaha F150 = 160 hp Yamaha F200 = 198 hp Yamaha F255 = 208 hp Yamaha F250 = 262 hp Yamaha F350 = 335 hp Honda BF 255 = 225hp ETec 250 = 246 hp ETec 300 = 296 hp Merc Vrod 275 = 275 hp Merc Vrod 300 = 295 hp I know it's off topic but just for interest sake.

Hi Huey, the marketing department of BRP do a very good job but it can become misleading to a quite a few people, if you stop random people at the ramp and ask them about their ETec one of the first comments is always "I don't have to do any maintenance for 3 years" which is incorrect, I know it's not BRP's fault that people do not know what there maintenance requirements are but it's makes me think how they come to these conclusions. Yes, no one is forcing them to go that long between service periods but they believe they can. I see the new statement will be "I don't have to do any maintenance for 5 years". Don't get me wrong I think the 5/5/5 is great and is better than most. Yeah I can't wait until they are released in Australia so I can see them in the flesh and go for a run on a vessel with the G2, thanks for the invitation I am really looking forward to it. On the topic of the DVD, I can't speak for the BRP or other companies as to what there reasons could be but I can make a few assumptions. No company is going to put anything out that doesn't show their product as the number 1. By everything BRP has put out they are the best and win all comparisons, Yamaha's promotional stuff shows them winning every comparison and so does mercury. So I make the assumption that there is little credibility in the promotional videos and booklets. As said previously I am happy to sit on the fence until independent testing is carried out to see what claims are truthful. I'll try and find the actual hp and torque figures for the G2's and paste them on this thread when the US Agency publish them or I find them. I believe there is a huge market for 400hp+ outboards, when there is 30-50ft cc's everywhere in the us running triple and quad 350hps. A few weeks ago Intrepid powerboats launched there first vessel with quad 7 marines 557hp. I think it would be pretty impressive if the G2 had 8 cylinders in a two stroke! Is there any plans for it at this stage? Please don't get me wrong I am not trying to bash the product, I have owned Yamaha's, merc's, etec, erudes and have spend years working with them. They all have the positives and negatives and i would recommend any of them dependent on what useage they wanted out of them. I have been around boats all my life as well both for fun and it's where I make my living too, and no I don't sell any products I simply use them everyday. I agree it will be interesting what is released next by all outboard manufactures. I don't believe much has happened since the verado hit the market. People will say the 557 is the latest thing but it is so unaffordable to most people that it is more of a side show than a game changer.

Not all engines have to meet the actual quoted hp figure that they are stamped with. I think they have to be within 10% of the stated figure. Maybe someone else can confirm or deny the percentage difference. 2 outboards that spring to mind are the 3.3l yamaha 225hp only made 208hp and the 3.3l yamaha 250hp makes about 268hp if my memory is correct. I think the US EPA web site will have all the true power output of every outboard. Yes the is only one true gear but realistically the propeller is the last gear and they are all different.

In my experience the engine with the stbd/stbd design will alleviate one of the most common heat failures experienced in 2 stroke engines, nearly all heat related failures are in the port side cylinders due to extra heat build up on that side on of outboard. All being said I thinks it's a good design the Evinrude have R&D and hopefully it works as planned. Nothing I have seen or read about yet suggest that these new outboards are "Game Changers" at the moment. In saying that they do have some very nice features. Electronic steering, it's great and wouldn't own another boat with out it but I had it on my 2005 verado. Now in saying that hopefully the Evinrude steering is much quiter than the verado's. It just maybe quieter because the steering is incorporated on the outboard itself. The incorporated oil tank is a cool feature and I'd rather have it than not but I won't loose any sleep if I didn't have it. The new rigging system is nice and I am glad that Evinrude have lifted the standard in that department. The maintenance free for 5/5/5 yrs is great but if they have the same statement in the user manual that was in my ETecs manual that stated that annual owner maintenance was required every 12 months if used in saltwater. All of these changes are nice but not game changers in my opinion. As for the CO output, who really cares with an outboard as it is absolutely insignificant amount in the big picture. Most outboards would be lucky if the get 100 hrs a yr. Even if you put a 1000hrs on it per yr it wouldn't rate a mention in the overall scheme of things. In my opinion what would be game changing if they burn 15%+ less fuel for the power output (I know BRP claim that it is the case but I'll leave that judgement for real world figures), or they where 350-400hp and they were a hell of a lot cheaper than other comparative hp outboards. As for the claimed torque figures I'll wait until there is independent testing to be carried out before I make my mind up, not company based marketing advertisement. I don't want to watch another BRP video of the ETec pull a yamaha powered vessel backwards to then watch the yamaha DVD out perform the mercury outboard then watch the mercury DVD with the mercury out performing the ETec, surely the marketing departments don't think the average boater is that gullible. For BRP I hope it is a game changer, because we will all benefit from it if it is even if your a Yamaha, Mercury, Suzuki or Honda guy.

I disconnected it from inside the cowling then duct tape it to a section of garden hose and run it into the drum.

From what I have seen, it's 5yr factory warranty, 5 year corrosion warranty, 5 year maintenance free period, can pick you own colour schemes, Evinrude is not written in the typical horizontal fashion on the cowling but is written vertically down the outboard..... Mmmm would be ok if you ran your motor in the trimmed up position......... and only available to 250-300hp models. From the photos I have seen they look like old Force outboards and are ugly as sin! How do dealers make money of a outboard that doesn't require maintenance for 5 yrs? Good for consumers if they can survive the saltwater environment for that long with no maintenance, time will tell. Unless they burn 20% less fuel or something nothing is really new to the industry, just more hype and publicity.

Yeah, I big plastic one. No ear muffs! Took the prop off because it didn't fit. Watch the water temp doesn't get to hot, but also the heat helps move the salt, calcium and scale.

Gazza yeah I agree with you, I don't think vinegar would cut it for cleaning up a submerged motor, maybe go for the hydrochloric acid but neutralise it before it's starts to etch the alloy. For flushing though vinegar works quite well. The heat generated by the outboard and the vinegar cleans the cooling system quite well and it's cheap. I have sat props in it too for a couple of days and they looked brand new. Each to their own it worked great for me and I'll continue to use it.

Salt will come away with vinegar, scale most probably won't. I have thought of hydrochloric acid it should remove scale and salt. One major problem I can see with hydrochloric acid is you will need to stop at chemical reaction quickly otherwise you could get some very expensive repair bills. Vinegar is more forgiving. Gazza I read that you had salt on the inside of the cylinder walls, my mistake. To get salt on the inside of the bore it had to be submerged or back flooding though exhaust valves?

A submerged engine is a completely different subject. I disagree, I pulled the thermostat out before the first flush and if was covered is salt, calcium deposits and other stuff. Once the first flush went though we pulled the thermostat again and it was like looking at a different one! No deposits of anything on it.

I was doing every 12-18 months, but I'll am going to go to 2 years. I get not salt or calcium deposits in the bucket anymore so I am going to stretch it out and see how it goes.

Vinegar, cheaper than anything offered on the marine market. 10L for $5.00 for home brand 2L bottles Get a big drum, plastic 44 gal drum does the trick for me Fill it up with fresh water the add 10-20l of vinegar and flush though for a total time of 30-60 minutes. Make sure the water level doesn't drop to much, have the tell tail feeding back into the drum, the water does get hot and will loose its cooling ability so be careful that you don't over heat your outboard, you should be able to put your hand in the water without burning it. If it does get to hot just stop and let it cool then go again. I had to remove the prop too. Let it sit for 12- 24 hrs with the vinegar in the system Start it up again for 20min or so in the vinegar solution Then take the boat for a good hard run. When finished running flush as normal. First time I used this method I could not believe the amount of crap that was in the cooling system the bottom of the drum was covered in crap. Now when I do it get very minimal if any stuff sitting the the drum. Never used salt away but everyone speaks highly of it.

Yes you want the AV plate above the keel line, height depends on how far the outboard is set back. You want to be able to see the AV plate clearly when on the plane, it should sit clear of the water level. A simple rule of thumb is for every 12 inches of set back it should be at least 1 inch higher, in some cases this isn't enough you need to go for a run and see how the AV plate is in relation to the water level.

Ok, it works by have both gearboxes spinning in opposite direction expressed as "standard rotation" and " counter rotation" each corresponding gearbox is the fitted with a left handed or right handed propeller. No one isn't in reverse, they are both going forward. They are different gearboxes but same ratio. They differ by the way the gears and thrust bearings are placed. If you try and run it in reverse to go forward you will destroy the gear box pretty quickly. Boats don't have gearboxes like cars because they are under constant load, boats are always going up a big hill. The faster the prop spins the faster you go.

Mast head light is a power boat thing! Not a sail boat thing, stern light is for all vessels. A masthead light shows an arc of 225 degrees and a stern light light show an arc of 135 degrees. Add them together 360 degrees. This is where the all round light comes into play on vessels under 12 meters because you can't see the separation of the two lights anyway so you can run the all round white light to achieve the same result.

Stainless is a much better option, alloy props are cheaper and they perform that way.

So my original numbers on the 17 were correct You have pretty good set up as is, 7% slip at 5200rpm for 34 knots. If you wanted to squeeze a little more out of it you could but I wouldn't bother.

You pay for what you get! Look at something of the same brand as your other electronics although it's not essential. It just stops different manufactures blaming the other piece of electronic gear for some causing problems if they ever occur. I wouldn't own a boat with out one these days. They make life so much easier!