BWV

Mate just by one from the states. It's so much cheaper around 50%. You still get 12 months warranty. I look at like would you pay twice as much a few extra yrs warranty? I wouldn't. If the motor is that bad you'd just by another. As far as I am concerned the Australian boating market has been getting ripped off for far to long by the engine and boat manufactures and now with the globalisation of the industry from the Internet the ball is in the consumers court to choose what we want to do instead of being rail roaded into over priced equipment.

The vessel drifting must give way to a sailing vessel at all times except when the sailing vessel is overtaking. The vessel drifting is deemed to be underway by the colregs and therefore must comply with the rules and give way. It doesn't matter if they are approaching for port or starboard. A vessel is deemed to be overtaking when is approaching another vessel at 22.5 or greater degrees abaft the beam of another vessel. So if the sailing vessel is approaching at a greater angle than mention previously they must give way. Fishing lines/ trolling line don't constitute a fishing vessel as per the colregs as the do not restrict the manoeuvrability of a vessel enough. If two vessels have a collision both vessels are at fault and blame will be proportioned out accordingly

No I ran a 1750 with a 270-280hp 2.4L merc for a while, 235 is the old evinrude/johno? the engine weight might be a concern not the hp.

Duralac is a carcinogenic, Tefgel is another product which works better than Duralac without the side effects. You must drill the holes bigger than needed and prime and paint as mentioned and have a rubber boot between the different grades of metals. You should try and have rubber inbetween the bolts and the holes that you have drilled too.

I'll try and get a photo next time I have the boat out.

FYI, Alfa Rosa See the attached photo of my skeeter regarding the engine height. This is how high and the trim I run the engine between 4000rpm and WOT. It is outboard is mounted on a jacking plate which has the engine sitting about 300mm from the transom. The prop is 25 P. The vessel doesnt suffer from cavitation or ventilation and you can see the Anti Ventilation Plate is well above the bottom of the vessel. It took alot of mucking around and different props to get it right but it runs like a dream now and at WOT pushes just shy of 65 knots . I am not saying you should be running your engine like this but just to give you an indication of what can be done with the correct set up.

Yes the one hook will be strong enough to hold the weight of the engine, thats whats it designed for. Although it might not hold the outboard level its small enough to manhandle. I think it would be easier to just move the engine around on a lift or on a block and tackle than moving the boat around but its your choice. To remove the silicone I would have a razor blade or stanley knife handy to cut it free to ensure it does pull and paint off. Clean it rest of it up with acetone or metho, what ever works the best. I would apply new silicone but not until I have the height sorted. Then I'd apply new silicone or sikaflex, but with an alloy boat its not as important as GRP one but its fairly cheap so just do it.

Lift it up one hole and see how it goes. I wouldnt really care what the trim gauge shows it really counts for nothing at this stage. Its just a reference point for the future. Remember bow lift isnt a bad thing, it reduces drag and increase speed and range of the vessel with reason. I have always set my vessels up with as much bow lift as possible without making the vessel feel loose at higher speeds.

That’s what it is suppose to do, the oxidation is how it protects itself. I know it doesn't look the best. If you do choose to polish it, its the start of a never ending job.

For a tow vechile I don't think you can go wrong with either a Toyota 100 Series 4.2L 6cy Turbo Diesel (151 KW@3400rpm/430NM@1400-3200rpm) or the 200 Series v8 4.5L Twin Turbo Diesel(195kW at 3400rpm/650Nm from 1600-2600rpm), both have a 3500kg capacity.

While the engine is off the boat you can drill the holes slightly bigger maybe 1-1.5mm then put epoxy around the internal part of the holes to stop any water penetration then put Marine Sikaflex around them or something similar. Or just use the Sika if you can't be bothered it will still work fine.

Ideally you want some degree of bow lift when operating at planning speeds, and all vessels squat when operation in displacement mode. You may be able to get ride of the hydrofoil if you like its all really up to you and what you like. As I have said before its one big game of trial and error. You might get it right or where your are happy with or it might take you a few goes. Just have a read of this first http://www.veradoclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=137.0

Just use the clamps to start with until you find the corect height and lash them together so the don't vibrate loose. I have never bolted any outboard to the stern of my tinny's because I just dont want holes in them I just secure the clamps.

Do the simple things first, move the pin, place a timber chock between the outboard and the top of the transom, this may get it a 1 inch higher. Drill new holes as a last resort. Can you slide the engine up and down using the same holes? With the engine up higher and on a higher pin you can expect it to lift the boat higher out of the water and therefore reduce the wetted surface and drag of the hull and reduce the drag of the engine which will result in a faster top speed, better acceleration and better fuel economy. By how much who knows? It might be noticeable it might not be GPS your top speed now and compare. It will be a hell of a lot faster with a 50 and more fun. It’s your call

Yes its too low. I know this isn’t really changing the engine height but it will improve performance. Put the pin in the top hole and post another picture on here with a straight edge from the keel the vent plate. This will cause the bow to lift but that lift will give you better performance. If the vessel feels unstable or chine walks at high speeds with the engine in the top pin drop it down one. You may be able to get away with just moving the pin instead of drilling holes at this stage. With the pin in the 3rd hole in your picture the angle of the vent plate is all wrong, ideally you want that vent plate angled up or parallel with the horizontal plane at minimum not angled down. Geoff is spot on with the insurance and over powered vessels, they will wipe you for just about anything so don't give them an easy reason too.

Geoff, I don't think that to 40mm+/- difference in height is going to improve in the water quality between the hulls as there is going to be lots of positive water pressure between the hulls. Running the engine that low is going to reduce your speed and efficiency of you vessel and place undue stresses on the transom. If you have a look on the link on my previous post there are some very good photos on the correct engine mounting height and how it should look when youre underway. I dont believe that your position is completely wrong mate I just think it can be done better but it can big a big game of trial and error to get it right. Alfa-Rosa, to answer your question. I cannot give you an answer in the way of a set distance e.g. 10mm or 20mm. It is trial and error. Too get the position right you can only do that by running the vessel at planning speeds and sticking your head over the stern and having a look. It could be in the correct position now just propped wrong but engine height is the first place to start looking. Measuring it in your drive way will get you somewhere in the ball park but it wont be perfect Have a look at the link and take note of the photos on that page when the vessels are running the vent plate is clear of the water when on the plane and trimmed correctly. Every boat is different, they act different when underway, and some ride with the bow high some ride pretty flat. You should be able to get enough info off the other page to work it out or at least point you in the right direction. To the other question; reversing off the beach. To be honest I dont know it may improve it may not. When you are trying to drive off the beach turn your engine from hard to port the hard to starboard and pause when hard over to get the vessels to screw around then go back the other way.

I have always had my engine height adjusted so the anti ventilation plate is higher than the bottom of the boat. My Boston Whaler was about 5-10mm higher and the Skeeter is 60-70mm higher from memory. You'll find 90% of people have their engine height wrong and there for not propped correctly. Lift the engine height and you will gain more RPM’s then you can run a larger pitch prop which will bring the RPM’s down to the engine manufactures limits. Running a larger pitch prop will not over load the engine as long as the height is right and it within the rev range. You will gain much better all-round performance and longevity out of your engine. As Clemo80 has said a "cup" in the prop will work but that isn't your first concern. Geoff and Alfa-rosa, your engine height is too low from your pictures! Running engines that low causes excess drag and poor water flow around the vent plate and prop! Have a look at this web page it’s a very good explanation (much better thanh I can give) on engine height and once you have that sorted start with trial and error with different props. http://www.veradoclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=137.0 Just to clarify race boats want as much efficiency out of their props and I think you’ll find they run surface piercing props that are designed to run with varying degrees of cavitation/ventilation as the blades pierce the surface.

Just order it, they are a excellent boat. Although the hard top model pounds a little more than the soft top model due to the extra weight up forward but the still out perform and mono hull vessel and nearly all other cats too.

PM sent

If the light wasn't working its probably because they just ran into it!! Sounds like another case of a vessel not travelling at a safe speed or keeping a proper look out.

I think some of you guys have missed the point, if the Water Police/Maritime consider you to be a danger to navigation they will give you a move on order regardless of whether or not your in the transit zone or not. Kurt to sit there and call the ferry master's cowboys is a bit above your head isnt mate? They have to deal with the idiot "week end boaters" everyday of their lives who cant tell the difference between the pointy end of the boat to the blunt end and the typical "I know boats, I have been boating for 20 yrs" characters who often frequent the waterways and then ferry masters are expected to maintain an almost impossible timetable whilst dealing with these clowns. For the 5 short blasts on the whistle means, that the master is unsure of the other vessels intensions. If just some of the pleasure boaters out there knew the rules of the road there wouldn't be such a need for the ferry masters to use their whistle as often as they do would there? If the ferry masters didnt give the five short blasts in the event of an accident one of the first questions asked would be did you sound 5 blasts on the whistle. No, I do not work for Sydney Ferries but have worked on Sydney harbour for a number of years and the amount of incompetence shown by some of Sydney's pleasure boaters defies believe. Who said they lose $35,000 per ferry per week? How many ferries is there Kurt? Now times those 2 figures together and multiply it again by 52 for the total lose each year and let me know what it is. I know its a government run company and we all know that they arent the best at managing their finances, but I dont think they are that bad.

what do you need? I have heaps of spare trailer parts. Springs, axles, hubs, wheels, tyre etc.

87 Spencer with quad C 18 1150hp cats http://www.facebook.com/pages/Spencer-Yachts/287596248053#!/media/set/?set=a.10150446964308054.404071.287596248053&type=1

It happen all vessels of all shapes and sizes to various degrees. I happens to my BW and to the 290m LNG tanker I work on. You can fix it by a number of ways. You can do what was mentioned above with the sea anchor or instead of cleating off the anchor line directly over the stem, cleat it to either the port or starboard shoulder and it allow the freeboard to act as a small sail and it will hold some vessels quite nicely whilst on the pick. Alternately you can cleat the anchor line directly over the stem and with the bitter end attach a weight (depending on the size of your vessel) and let that hang a few meters under the water surface and that will also stop you vessels swinging on the pick. If you have all anchor chain you can either snottter off the cable or attach a devils claw and keep paying the cable out and have a few meters of cable sitting in the water and that will also reduce the effects.

cruisecraft all the way, either 575 with 150- 200hp or the 625 with 200-250hp.