allen glover

ebaying them as is would be the best bet to make a few bob out of them. Dont get over excited by the $ you will end up with though . you would be very lucky if you made your money back if you have them restored for sale.

is that the fore grip or rear grip !

They would look great hanging on a wall all done up. If they have sentimental value why not. resale probably wont ever be great in Aust though.

What I say ??????? Just giving a mate a heads up on the blank

Tim By the coding They are Pac Bay "Rainforest" blanks about $60US retail

That would be a Pac Bay PX2 http://www.fishpacbay.com/prod_blanks.html

Excellent to use especially in the medium ranges of 4-15 kg. . I have a few and highly reccomend them for this style of fishing. more comfortable more responsive less cumbersome etc but the main aim is to minimize rod twist Rather than go into it in depth again If ken will permit I did an article at fishnet on them http://www.fishnet.com.au/default.aspx?id=234&articleId=578 Cost difference to a conventional rod is minimal if at all. The only difference is getting the angles right which can be a bit of a bugger. A

You would in all likely hood be wasting your time in 50m of water for dollies. You could try broken bay wide it usually has a trap or two on it that will hold dollies. but as the fad is only 5 kms or so further on from there you may as well head all the way. Keep an eye out for traps between the two as there are usually some in 90 or so meters. in an apropriately sized boat the run to the fisheries fad isnt that bad especially if conditions are on your side. just ensure your boat and radio has range and you should be right.

Most definately a stripey. Baby bluefin of both the SBT and longtail varieties in that size are strictly tropical

Thats great advice as different builders charge differently. So try and check out the quality of there work to see if you think the cost is justified. keep in mind to do the job properly though a std build without dress binds etc will be 5 or so hours Minimum

Contact fair trading or consumer affairs

whered ya buy it.. any salesman that good I got to hire!!!

--> QUOTE(kevin B @ Feb 28 2006, 09:12 PM) 88575[/snapback] thanks for your time allen, im going to pay extra attention now when winding in large fish, and take it a bit slower on the down stroke. The rod i have in mind says 'handcrafted in Australia', has the fluro XHD fuji guides etc. Thats an original one, im quite sure. I do heaps of rock fishing, and no matter how careful you are, sooner or later your gear gets dropped, hit, banged etc. Ill buy an composite for that reason alone i reckon. thanks If it is from shakespeare, has a clear tip and an "ugly stik" sticker on it then you'll be right

--> QUOTE(kevin B @ Feb 28 2006, 07:15 PM) 88545[/snapback] Since i know no better really, what are the pros and cons of the original ugly? with the slow recovery mentioned, is that regarding the down stroke when working the rod on a big fish? Exactly. All solid tipped howell rods like uglies and silstars are more prone to slack line moments on the wind stoke if dropped too quickly. BTW Im talking exclusively about the original solid tipped uglies not the spin off variants like the poor quality graphite or composite custom's, 2000's, Tigers etc Comparing the original ugly to a high mod graphite rod is swings and roundabouts really. What you lose in weight you make up for in robustness and longevity. The very same soft tip that makes them a demon caster also makes them a little sloppy on the high speed retrieve. they are also heavier and more cumbersome to work for long periods of time compared to graphite but this isnt a huge deterent to there use unless youve spent a long period of time using full graphite. If you are aware of the strengths and weaknesses of either (any) rod and fish to suit them you wont be dissapointed with your choice.

Putting the whole graphite/glass arguement and shimano hype aside. Its not that tough a call when you look at the history of all the other rod ranges shimano have ever produced. Under even moderate use THE VAST MAJORITY of shimano rods especially their supposed high performance rods last on average 3-5 yrs at best. I and a whole lot of other anglers have ugly stick originals that are 20 plus yrs old. There are only one or two 10kg ugly original casting sticks so its not that difficult to judge either. Finally, knowing rods is my business and Im not offering biased opinion on either product as they both have good and bad points such as those I've put up in my original post . A P.S. Anyway the word I'm getting is that (as expected) some of the T curve range are snapping already

it depends what you want from your rods If you are after good allround performance combined with rugged reliability that will last a life time go the ugly stick. If you are after a modern light fast response fighting rod that will in all likelyhood last only a few yrs decent use then the T curve is your go. BTW Id put my money on the ugly for distance over the T curve also. ulgies have always cast like demons Its just their fighting abilities on pelagics that can ocasionally let them down as they are a bit to slow to recover on the drop.

The fish is infact the painted lizardfish but is also commony called the painted grinner. The slender grinner mentioned is a tropical species from the genus saurida and like most grinners( a large group) not found below the QLD border. True grinners are from the harpadontidae family whereas lizard fish are from the very closely related synodontidae family. The species here is a member of the genus trachinochephilus but the the variegated lizard fish the most frequently encountered member of the whole group is genus synodus thus all the trouble with identification. To throw more confusion into the mix, due to these genus differences the variegated lizard fish looks all the world like a brown seargeant baker. and is caught in similar circumstances to SB's but SB'sare from a different family alltogether Aulopididae Generic differences between all these species centers around fine points like fin ray counts and shapes but colouration and head shape is the most immediate giveaway. A

yep just like a morwong only they grow a lot bigger and fight better.

Just got back from a few weeks in Perth. Not much fishing possible and my much awaited jigging trip got blown out. I did manage to get aboard a bottom bashing party boat and did OK. As per usual the pics dont do justice to the fish but the queen snapper went 8kg and the sambo 20kg

If your going to Kariong to have a shot at them with lures Maybe try HB cicada, surface poppers. or SP frogs... at dusk! plenty of these morsels around ATM. Doubt there would be many minnows left in there. A

no Im not refering to the NGC Im refering to an occasional issue( short guided oheads) that crops up and is primarily due to dodgy sales pitches trying to shift poorly designed product . but funny you should mention the NGC as it also seems to contradict the problem at hand A

Bash is on the money anyone who builds a rod this way is stooging you. The arguement for it supposedly goes that the reduced guide count is less of an impediment to the action of the blank but the basic fact of the bigger the line angle over guides on an Ohead rod the more torque the thing suffers from thus the more impeded the action actually is, and the more the rod is at risk of snapping let alone simply worse to use as it wants to twist out of your grip more under load. Funny how age old tried and tested fundementals fly out the window when a sale is at stake dont touch it

Alex http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/~rodsupply/ not listed but hastings fly blanks also available A

All great advice and I cant add much more. In this class dont sweat over weight but metal or Ali "bling" is just unneccessary. a bit of threadwork weighs half as much and looks better. If you want to be functional and flash you can get super lightweight, full titanium seats from the states but top up the credit card before ordering one. Most of the Ali fly seats sold locally will do the job fine though. 7wt rods can take double footed snake guides which provide surety. Also the action and wts cast are large enough to over come any blank dampening the dbl ft guides may give. All up wt isnt an issue with dble ft guides as they use the same amount of wire as singles. Just make sure you size the guides so you have plenty of room for the line to travel freely. Also if you are fishing salt water Id reccomend a ringed tip like a fuji SiC or Freeway Zirc. Snake tips create a lot of friction on big runs. Lovely blank by all accounts. All the other CD's Ive built are excellent rods A P.S Hows the purglas going Cam.

Here Here ! A