zmk1962

PM sent Cheers Zoran

Hi Antony, Sorry have been away for a while so very tardy in replying. Thanks for posting pictures - it makes it a lot clearer - I don't think you need to do any cutting or fabricating. From what I can see, the batteries are placed on pedestals at the stern to give them some protection from any water you may get in your hull. The simplest solution may be for you to invest in 2 plastic battery boxes which you mount forward just under the seats. The one I purchased from W...ths many years ago came with tie down straps which you could secure to your floor. Although not elevated, the batteries would be protected from the elements and would also be much more accessible. (PS- It's always a good idea to have the batteries in a box anyway - to this day I believe I owe my life and my wife's life to the fact we had the battery on our 4.3m Savage in a battery box - but that's another story.) Cheers Zoran

Catching up on old posts as I have been away for a while. I have a 200HP and a 15HP Aux on the back of a fibreglass hull - so my experience may be different to that of an alloy hull. I hear a lot about transom savers - but my understanding of physics says that the forces that are exerted on transom by the weight of the motor on a road trip are MINISCULE compared to the forces that would be exerted on the transom by the motor powering the craft through a swell.... any harsh bumps on the road are cushioned by spring of the trailer ... on the water, there is no cushioning - the power from the motor on the transom punches the craft through swell, you go from no load to maximum load if you porpoise between waves... the strain on the transom is at greatest when on the water and under way. So if you are powered with motors within the limits of your hull specifications then weight should not be an issue. My main concern when towing is making sure I have the motors clear of the bitumen ... and when underway on water in having the 15hp Aux up out of the water. In the past I used the little trim down lock on the Aux, but that broke in a particularly bumpy ride on the water coming back from Browns. So I designed and welded up a "H frame" s/steel support for the Aux which I can operate from the stern (see pictures attached) and I use this when on the water and when towing. For the 200HP when towing I made up a chock from a piece of leftover 50mm aluminum tube. The chock has notches that slot into steal rods pushed through tilt trim holes - I use R clips on string (so they can't be lost) to keep the rods in place. Its the same concept as the block of wood but it can't fall out on the road. Anyway, sharing as the above set up has worked for me for 12+ years. Cheers Zoran

Hi guys... have spoken to a few folks that PM'd me and have taken their experience/advice on board... it appears that the windlass type of winches like the Lewmar still need to have the anchor rope tied off to prevent the anchor deploying when under way (also checked the owner manual and it also states that you should not rely on the rope being held in the gypsy when under way)... hmmm this meant I'd still have to make a trip to the bow to tie off the rope and it kind of defeated the idea of hands free anchoring fro the helm position. So I have decided not to proceed with a windlass type... and now back looking at drum types. Thanks everyone.... Cheers Zoran

Hey Raiders, I'm looking at installing an anchor winch. Has anyone had experience with the Lewmar V700 Windlass. http://www.lewmar.com/node/11627 Looking for any experience or insights regarding Lewmar or windlass style anchor winches. I have pretty much come to the conclusion I cannot install a drum type winch due to restricted space without some serious modifications that I'd rather not embark on. Cheers Zoran

Hi Antony, I can see you also have the moulded seats there at the stern - so starting to get a sense of the restricted access to the batteries. I'd still be inclined to find a way to perhaps slide the batteries forward clear of the seats when required rather then chop at the stern moulding. Are you able to snap a picture looking under the moulded seats to show the batteries and perhaps take a height clearance measurement from the floor to the bottom of the seats? I have an idea on how you may be able to construct a sliding base from two pieces of waterproof form ply. Cheers Zoran

....or make a muffler and there should be no noise complaints - I flush a 200hp 2Stroke 4 meters from my neighbor's house - the muffler makes it no louder then my Landcruiser idling. Here's the old thread - http://www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/index.php?showtopic=77270 Cheers Zoran

As per johndory post -- Stay away from E10 and marine applications or anything that has a layup period... I have written at length on this before... here is the link to the old posts http://www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/index.php?showtopic=74376&hl=chemical#entry560185 Regarding the post from flatheadluke about value of E10 vs 98. I drive a V8 landcruiser (not the most frugal machine on the road). I have experimented with E10 and 98. I need to keep log books for work/tax. It was not hard to calculate I get >15% more mileage from a 98 tank then from a E10 tank. Not to mention the better acceleration, performance etc. Its a no brainer for me what to fill up with. Will_i, I suggest you drain your tank and change your fuel filter (it may have a separated a lot of water out of your old stale fuel and be full. This could be the reason why you have difficulty starting - its sucking water at start - but once started it runs ok at high revs as fuel is running past the water in the filter). Then run fresh 95 or 98 with 2stoke oil through your motor. My advise is DONT let the motor sit too long as it is now as 2stroke motors use the fuel as lubricant... and right now you have E10 through your motor and bearings. Read my posts above. PM me if you want to chat and I will send you my mobile number. Cheers Zoran

Antony, Seems you are focused on access to your batteries - why do you need frequent access to them? I have 3 batteries across the stern of my boat all sitting in strapped down battery boxes... I inspect them 1-2 times per year. For trickle charging I have connected separate wiring to each that feeds through the battery boxes and I connect the charger to them via an anderson type plug (M/F) - I have made the the lead for the anderson plug easily accessible so that I do not need to physically access the batteries each time. Its a pretty big decision to chop away at your hull (it was designed that way for a purpose) - perhaps you can solve your problem in another way. Cheers Zoran

Antony, My first boat a Savage Avalon had similar fiberglass moulding (although not as deep as yours). Before you chop them out, bear in mind the shape of the moulding adds a fair bit of structural rigidity to your stern area - you don't want to end up with flexing of your transom. Cheers Zoran

Awesome stuff! ..... I'm heading down the same path.... here is a snap of mine with the frame reworked and starting to take shape. Cheers Zoran

PMs sent.

Ok Guys... thanks for all the feedback. Two to one. Have decided to go with the glass upfront (+ wipers) and clears all around. Thanks again. Zoran

Thanks Guys.... exactly the feedback I was after. I had already decided not to enclose the cabin due to airflow considerations and you have confirmed that. Your comments back my own experience when keeping all the clears on - it just gets too stuffy. An enclosed cabin is great if you need the cover - eg fishing overnight anchored up, but airflow is key when on the troll - I like to do both types of fishing so for me clears are the way to go on the sides - one decision done. Now for visibility and the front screen. Overdraft, how have you found visibility with a full glass screen up front? I find my current perspex screens fog up so much that I can't see out, and I have found no practical way to keep them clear from the inside. I have a wiper on the outside so I do get some visibility in the rough and when raining - but it is tunnel vision (the best you can hope for under the circumstances). Heading out early from Roseville down middle harbour on a foggy winter morning - I always have the clears off and I am hawkeye over the screen looking out for those rowers. Same heading up Sydney harbour pre dawn. Do you do those early morning runs - how do you keep your screen clear? Thanks ! Zoran

Hey Raiders, I'm about signup for a hardtop to be fitted to replace the marine canvas bimini. One decision I am struggling with is whether to go with a full glass windscreen (hull to hard top) or with a set up that has glass windscreen at the bottom and clears between the glass and the bimini. I've had the clears+windscreen set up for years and like the fact I can unclip the clears on bad visibility days when there is dew or fog on the glass (inside and out). Also on those hot days trolling taking the clears off lets a lot of fresh air flow through the helm and deck area. But I hate the break in vision caused by the top of the glass frame right in the line of sight. Soooo. I am very interested to learn from Raiders that have full glass windscreens - what has been your experience? Would you recommend it? How do you maintain visibility (with the fog and dew on the glass) on those cold dark mornings? Cheers Zoran

I've posted this picture before ... best of luck with your pod...... and tight lines !!! PS - If you want to come and take measurements of my pod, make cardboard templates etc. Just PM me. Cheers. Zoran

Thanks guys. I've had mine since 1996. The set up has evolved. Repowered, retrailered, recanopied - can't fault the hull performance and she takes me to Brown's and back just nice. I have found the whole pod design works great. As you can see, with the rear seat folded the deck area is huge for a sub 7m boat with a full cabin (2 x 7ft V bunks).

I run a Haines 635L which was built with an ally pod - original from Haines. The pod is exactly as you describe with integrated duckboard on each side. I have a 200hp (175kg Merc) bolted to the pod. +1 for antonywardle comments about more room and longer water line length. I have had friends on my boat comment that my rig is very "roomy" (about 2x2m fishing area) and has a great ride compared to other boats they had been on out wide. I have been in some nasty weather and she rides true coming down the back of sloppy waves with no broaching. But you will find with the motor hanging about 1m further back that she will ride lower at the stern at rest unless you make the pod big enough to float the motor. Hence, one thing I would recommend is to make the pod as large as possible to give you more buoyancy at the stern - if you look at all the new ally / fibreglass boats with pods most have now designed a pod that runs across the whole stern. In my experience, with the duckboard and clear internal access to the stern you will also find that you WILL use the space. eg. I find that 3 blokes can and do tend to stand across the stern (180-200kg)....and then I have also fitted 3x batteries across the back (60kg), plus a 15hp 4-st Aux (50kg) - not just for safety but for trolling out wide, and I also have my live bait tank sitting out back on the duckboard where it clips into place (40kg). That's a lot of weight to float out back - I have countered some of that by installing a +100L fresh water bladder out front under the bunks for better balance, but most recently I fabricated two floatation tanks that I bolted under the duckboards to the pod giving me about 90kg of lift at the back at rest - in addition they act a bit like trim tabs to give me better hole shot performance. I've attached a few photos to help visualize - showing the boat from different angles and the pod pre and post the floatation tanks - but my summary would be to make the pod as big as possible. Cheers Zoran

There's been lot of discussions on this in many fora (forums??). The hydrofoil manufacturers claim great improvement in lift to get on a plane, the outboard manufacturers claim the anti-cavitation plate where you bolt on the foils was never designed to bear the extra load of the lift (neither was the shaft or the bushes on which the motor tilts) - they say if you fit foils eventually you will see cracks on the anti-cavitation plate or have early failure of the tilt mechanism. I am sure a lot of this depends on how you handle your craft and as Neil says - correct balance helps the most.

Hi Adam, also bear in mind, its not the distance (2km) offshore...its what maritime defines as "open waters" that sets the requirement for safety gear. You can check open water definition for Port Jackson definition here - http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/maritime/using-waterways/maps/boating-maps.html (line from Cannae Pt to South Head). Read the "open waters" requirements very carefully. locodave posted the link previously. Note some things that don't stick out but maritime will check for if/when they stop you - - you still need to carry paper maps with you - relying on an electronic GPS is not enough - you need 2L of water per person on board etc etc So even downrigging for kings along the North head wall, or around South head you are technically in open waters even if you are just 30-50metres off the rock face and you are required to have the safety kit all onboard. Cheers Zoran

HA ! only 200 .... was that pesos, rupees .... done ! PM sent.

No problem ! I'm not in that much of a rush - I have the VHF for emergency. Just took the opportunity to update the post with the specific model numbers. Cheers Zoran

Glad you found it useful. Yup... there are a lot of clowns on the surface and probably more down bottom with Davey Jones. Few years back my friend returning from offshore in the dark T boned a tinny between Parsley Bay and Dangar Is .... the fools in the tinny had no nav lights and no torch on board. You can appreciate whom the Maritime police blamed and held accountable. Anyway best of luck with your fit out... as I said PM me if you want to see anything at night... it will give you a sense of just how much light you get. For me it was a lot of "think time" and experimentation but then I enjoy mucking around in my boat in the driveway almost as much as being on the water - he he he. Cheers Zoran

Great work ! .... your results are way better than our effort last Saturday - seems with the same intentions - 20km out set the spread and head east... but ended up with just stripey tuna and one legal dollie on the way back in to the FAD. Good on ya - good to know they are still out there.

Hi Fabian, Here are a couple of things to consider from my experience. Night time navigation rules require you to keep an all round white light on between dusk and dawn when anchored and the red/green/white navigation lights on when underway (vessels under 7m not capable of going more than 7knots do not require the red/green but do require a single white light when under way and when stationary). So when I had my 16footer I found my biggest problem was where to put the white navigation light - as it gives off a LOT of white light - penty of light to fish by but infact too much and was blinding if kept located at the stern like yours is. I also had a canopy on my 16footer - my canopy was fixed in the open position and I moved my white nav light above the canopy so the canopy cast a shadow across the boat and did not blind us too much. Hence because of the nav light I found I had a lot of light already when fishing at night and never needed to fit anything else on that boat. I now run a 6.3m hull - which also has the mandatory white all round nav light and I fitted that above the canopy given my past experience. I made sure that it was located in a position where the canopy cast a shadow across my boat bow - as otherwise the reflection from the bow was interfering with my night vision. Below is a description of the deck lighting that I have installed. I have a single dual dome light (12 red LED, 18 white LED) mounted under my canopy and it provides enough light for the whole deck area at the back of the boat and also the helm area. Most of the time its on RED (preserves night vision) rarely on white - but white will give you that crispness when you have to look at detailed stuff eg remove a hook stuck in a finger !&%#& The red mode provides enough light to easily move around and unhook fish once in the boat etc. But we do not keep the dome light on all the time - we found there is enough natural reflected light (plus the white nav light) to fish by and only use the dome light if we are doing something - handling fish in the boat, getting a drink or sambo etc. Gaffing or netting fish may still require a headlamp or torch, but again the white nav light above the canopy is usually enough. Re Wattage - you don't need much light at night mine has 12 red LED bulbs I think from memory the packaging said around 5W. BTW, my baitboard is at the stern and I found that if the dome light was on your body cast a shadow across the baitboard so I also fitted a single red lamp onto my baitboard. Infact I modified a port navigation light which I drilled and fitted with a rubber boot toggle switch, this light is switched on and off as we need to cut bait and bait up and provides direct red light on the work surface. Anyway, moving to night fishing and night time boating I think your first step will be to sort out the navigation light position. Depending on how often you plan to go out, you may consider permanent or temporary set up - eg a quick occasional set up could be a white all round light on a plastic clamp with a cigarette lighter plug that you clamp onto your canopy rail, and a red lens which you drape over your stern white all round light. Your stern light is already wired with a switch so you can turn it on an off as required, and you might already have a cigarette plug mounted somewhere for the temporary nav light on your canopy. Lots of options and considerations - PM me and I'll send you my phone contact details if you want to discuss. Or if you want to look at a boat with lights on at night - nothing like seeing how different set ups work. Also if you are considering LEDs strips - some of the lighting shops sell aluminium metal extrusions which house the LED strip and also have a plastic diffuser that slides in over the LED strip. You could attach some short lengths of the extrusion to your hull or windscreen behind the grab rail to provide red light where you want/need it and that may be a mounting option to consider. Cheers Zoran