zmk1962

Hey Raiders. Recovering from cataract surgery so being very "one eyed" at the moment.... came across this youtube clip and thought I'd share it as this question comes up so many times on our forum. The video is delivered in a very American way - but it does cover the main considerations that the more experienced Raiders have shared in the past - ..like Skippers experience being paramount". On that note.... There is an absolutely classic line in the video, I may not have quoted it directly but the gist is -- "Everyone starts with a bag full of luck and an empty bag of experience. The objective is to fill your bag with experience before you run out of luck." .... and ..." if its gonna happen, it's gonna happen out there!" Enjoy. Cheers Zoran

....and that's why marketing choses a HP rating for the motor vs the true MAX capability of the motor .... so they get max applicability to hull manufacturers. .. the motor manufacturers stay within their justification that the motor can be rated as a 150HP and the hull manufacturers are comfy it meets the hull load rating. Cheers Zoran

I suspect it's something like a Jeaneau ... @MerryFisher has one at around the 6m mark thats rated for a 115hp. He does well with that. I saw one 7m Jeanneau demo at the 2017 boat show with a 150HP Merc on the back. Having said that and based on my experience, choosing an outboard is less to do with the single HP rating that has been assigned to a motor and more to do with what torque output that motor produces between idle and 5252rpm. As per my recent experience repowering my boat from a 200HP 2str to a 150HP 4str resulting in better performance and fuel economy up to 70km/h....if I do the HP calcs on my 150HP Merc, I can derive a rating of 177HP for that motor from the torque / rpm curve. But marketing chose to sell it as a 150HP motor ... you can conclude why ! In my post below, I have mentioned several other European manufacturers using this 150HP motor on their 1500kg dry weight rigs. Hope this helps. Cheers Zoran

See if you can pick up some ideas from these posts... cheers Zoran

hahaha .... 🤣 ... and old electricians never die .. they just lose their contacts ! Cheers Z

Hmmm not sure as I don't know the specs on that one. I just look to see if it says it can be used for welding fumes ... I use disposable ones - pick them up at hardware stores in the welding section ... they look something like this in different colours: Cheers Zoran

This is a great educational intro on changing a 2stroke head gasket: But I’m still skeptical how you are getting 120psi per cyl (good reading) with a blown head gasket. The cyl pressure would leak into the water chambers if the gasket was compromised. The water system runs at very low pressure compared to the cylinders. If we believe the pressure test - that to my knowledge indicates a good gasket and no cracks in the head. Happy to be corrected here. But the water got in from somewhere. I would double check the fuel, oil and air intake system for water. Drain all the carbies. Also, I would remove the suspect cyl spark plug (and leads from the other plugs) and crank the head a few times to expel whatever is in that cyl. Then spray a bit of WD 40 into that cyl and refit the plug and leads. Prime the carbies and start the motor. Then check again that each cyl is firing (pull leads) one at a time. You have nothing to lose. cheers Zoran

Interesting .... so did the mech say how the water is getting in the lower cylinder? Where is the head compromised for water to get in, without leaking pressure? Do you have a water separation fuel filter installed between the tank and motor? Have you checked if its full of water? Have you checked for water in fuel? Water in carbie? I also came across this reading engine posts and noted it down in my files: "check your oil tank.... 40 hp recently had water in bottom cylinder it came from the cap on the cowl leaking water into the oil tank and from there into crankcase, in particular the bottom cylinder" I wouldn't give up on the motor you have just yet. Something is not adding up. Cheers Zoran

May just be me, but with those replies I get the feeling he knew about it ... Did he give you a service history or any paper work? Did he make any representations in writing that the motor was good etc. Even then, if its a private sale, I think you are up for a civil suit to try and claim any compensation ... personally I don't think there is much you can do. Paying a mechanic to check a 2nd hand motor before you put money down is the way to go - a cylinder pressure test would tell a fair bit about the state of the motor and would have picked up the problem you have found. I know experience can be a tough teacher, but if everything else is good, maybe sell the current motor for parts and repower and enjoy the boat. I'm saying that without knowing how much you paid for the whole rig and hoping that with a repower (new or 2nd hand) you will not over capitalise. But anything that takes a 115hp on the back is a pretty decent size rig. Others on the site have purchased rigs and ended up spending more than they anticipated or planned on to get them to scratch - but now are pretty happy boaties. Cheers Zoran

Any recourse with the previous owner ? You mentioned it was a very recent purchase. Cheers Zoran

Did you turn kill switch off? cheers Zoran

Or if the rollers are silicon (not rubber) occasionally spray some RP7 or Inox into rollers and onto spindles. Cheers Zoran

I do it infrequently and tend to pour a lot in one go as I find there is a fair bit of prep and set up - so that way I get maximum bang for invested time. Last pour was in 2017 and I made over 20kg of sinkers. Still have about 1/3 of that stockpiled... but I have been chatting to @Welster regarding the next pour. From my experience, there's a couple of things to consider when you chose a smelting pot apart from the construction material. The main thing is: how much lead do you plan to melt? and how many sinkers and what size do you plan to make? That will determine how big a pot you need and how much lead you need to keep molten so that you are not waiting around for the next bit to melt - this can take a while. My snapper lead mold has 4 - 8 -10 - 16oz sinkers. Thats 38oz (about 1kg) of lead to cast all 4 in one go. That gives you an idea of how much molten lead you need to keep on standby. I preheat the mold with a butane torch before pouring the lead into it. A cold mold will cause lead to set in the throat and you wont get a solid pour. You then need to wait about 4-5min for lead to set before cracking open the mold and removing the sinkers (set aside for finishing) - then re-assemble the very hot mold before pouring the next batch. If you can get an extra person to help you'll whizz though it as one can be finishing sinkers while the other one does the smelting. I found by keeping big pot of molten lead on standby, it helped speed up melting additional lead due to its large thermal mass and hence speed up the whole process in general. Regarding the pot material: Lead melts at 327C as KC posted. Aluminium melts around 660C, cast iron, steel, stainless steel melt at 1100-1400C. I chose to dedicate a cast iron camping pot to my smelting because it is sturdy and holds the heat really well - keeping your lead molten. A stainless pot would work, but you'll lose a lot of heat from the thin sides - it just depends on how much lead and how many sinkers you want to make. I also found it helpful to keep the s/steel ladle in the melt so that it too stays hot. You'll be surprised how quickly things cool and the lead sets where you don't want it to. Safety warnings: 1. make sure your mold is DRY and the work space is dry. If molten lead touches any water, you will have an explosion of sprayed molten lead. 2. work in a well ventilated place (I also wear a welding gas mask) 3. wear heavy gloves (like welding gloves) and eye protection. 4. wear heavy clothing and foot protection (I basically wear old cotton/canvas shirt, jeans and work boots ie. my welding gear). Have fun and stay safe !! Cheers Zoran

Re brand ... I can only comment on their "higher" end stuff... Remember Diawa are largely a wholesaler - and under Aus consumer law, your first port of call regarding warranty issues is the point of sale - the vendor. In my case, I purchased a Daiwa Tanacom 1000 electric reel ... the vendor could not get stock due to the Tsunami in japan delaying shipment to Aus. The vendor worked with Diawa and they came to the party and shipped me a Tanacom Bull 1000 for no additional cost. That told me they stood behind their sellers and their product and their customers when it counted. Cheers Zoran

Hmmmm. Thanks @PaddyT ... so I took your advice and had a look at the Pakula site .... https://www.pakula.com/btl/ch-10-boat-setup/outriggers.html ... low and behold ... they have this thing called a SHOTGUN POLE .... wow. The concept is identical to my Shotgun Rigger except that I mount mine in rocket launchers and theirs seems to be a dedicated fixture on the hardtop - like outriggers are on the sides ! So that just tells me my concept is a feasible and workable implementation - just happens to be a DIY retrofit effort that perhaps others can adopt - versus a manufactured store bought thing. BTW, did you read their site? .. a lot of your previous commentary was along the lines of why bother... and yet here's Pakula saying go for it ? Anyway, I appreciate what you say, that its all been written before, but there is a lot of value in someone summarising the information they found relevant for this location and that made them who they are in this community... That info, that summary is the makings of a valued article. @mrsswordfisherman did a similar thing with the COVID related post so we all didn't have to go search for the bits of info. But I know - it's a lot easier to comment from the side lines than to actually create a post... let alone try something new. Cheers Zoran PS - I actually have had the opportunity to chat to Peter Pakula ("the man"). I rang Pakula asking about a specific skirt and he answered the phone personally, a true gentleman, true professional and very forth coming with advice. He was first to acknowledge what he used up north in QLD was just a guide for us southerners .. there is always that locality factor and local experience. AND that local knowledge combined with experience and willingness to share is the value of a site like Fishraider PPS - 20 captures and 40 hookups - that puts you about 19 captures and 38 hookups ahead of me - still makes me wonder why you prefer to comment versus post.

Bahaha.... there's a lot of incentive to get it right ! Cheers Zoran

Thanks KC. The gremlins were about that day - Both GoPros had SD card errors !!! cheers Zoran

I found my retirement job ! Cheers Zoran

I’m paying $89 for 45kg bottle delivered. That works for me. cheers Zoran

I have solar installed. You can't run your Electric hot water on your solar electric circuit and off peak circuit at the same time. It's one or the other. Cheers Zoran

OUCH ! Sounds expensive in ANY language. I guess I'll wait for the pictures to surface on social media. Cheers Zoran

Live jigging ? .... I saw him pull his pants up ... wonder if he had to change his .....

Hahaha ... yes ... there's lots of sites that give you their theory, but theory with some experience and local knowledge is GOLD 🥇. ... and as you now know, lots of videos show you deep drop techniques but they tend to focus on the catching part ... not the fishing part ! Bahahaha 🤣 Anyway, I can get similar line tension to when we deep drop, but what I can't get is for the line to be wet when spooled under load. I guess I could soak the spool in a bucket over night etc etc ... but have not gone that far yet. Also, braid ships with waxes and coatings (part of the manufacture process)... so after a few uses it does thin down a bit. All this change in thickness adds up to a different spool diameter when you are working the deep drop depths. The main thing is to identify the problem you are dealing with and to have a plan to handle it as efficiently as possible. Cheers Zoran

🤔 hmmm .... if it's all been written before then why does a site like Fishraider prosper ??? Cheers Zoran

Nice. Love your forward planning Frank ! cheers Zoran