chrisg

Asolutlely...the more disgusting black and slimy they look the better. All that goo will wash off downstream and give the jewie a scent trail to follow. In theory!! C.

That kit is well worth it..saves so much stuffing around. Huey...you don't happen to know if Merc boxes have the same thread do you? C.

The thing with blades is they all vibrate at different frequencies. Some days they works some days they doesn't. As you say the Ti Sing blade gives a good strong vibe. That will be too much some days, some days it will be the gun lure. Get used to how it swims etc...a good one to have in the arsenal. C.

Looking at the pic I would start by tilting down the rear of the transducer a little...only a little though. Find yourself some nice smooth open water and maintaining speed put in a nice long gentle left hand turn. If the sounder image improves you need to go higher with the transducer. Try a turn to the right...if it improves now you need to go lower. It might be better placed at a spot between the two rollers in the bottom pic...on that flat part of the hull. Ideally get yourself one of the stainless adjustable transducer brackets so you can fiddle with the height easily....boat shops have them. C.

I just stand and stare at the boat for hours and hours and hours.....My family think I'm going mad. Did I mention I just stand and stare at the boat for hours and hours and hours....... c.

And if you want to see the man himself...... BETS Rd 4 Wrap C.

For rock fishing I would be looking at an auto inflate yoke as a minimum or a full vest type. The chance of being knocked unconscious if you were swept off is high so you don't want a manual inflate. C.

Lightest and thinnest are the yoke types either manual or auto triggered inflation...pro's and cons with both. You can get a similar setup built into a jacket or bodywarmer type vest. Then there is the full vest type which are thicker but getting thinner as time goes on. The sort of boating/fishing you do should be considered in your choice. Look up some of the boating store websites and you'll see the range..look for a PFD 1. C.

For those of you wanting to know how to tie a mid knot there will be a video on the Australian Pure Fishing website very soon. I've not used it but apparently its a great knot. Keep an eye on the PureFishing TV section. C.

I'd be looking at a Lowrance HDS 5m for that sort money. In fact they are $200 off at BCF this week. C.

Bergo Welcome to the world of saltwater corrosion! If you can try and clean up the contacts with a fine file or bit of sand paper (disconnect the battery first). Jaycar or similar electronics shop do a spray that helps remove corrosion and can protect the surface. Its probably salvageable but its all down hill from here I'm afraid..you'll be looking to replace at some point. C.

TC I would go down to Woy Woy on a calm day. The ramp can be busy but its a nice easy ramp to learn on with sand on either side to park the boat whilst parking up. As said go early, pick your moment, don't afraid to ask others for help (there's often a a few blokes waiting for their mate to launch) but above all take your time and do not feel rushed. After a few goes it becomes second nature and before you know it the young fella will be all over it and you'll be sitting in the car waiting to park! C.

Sadly still very much legal. I think in a recent year 50,000kg of bream were taken by Hawkesbury trawlers. C.

See Timmy...the boat may give you a little grief from time to time but when you have a nice day on the water its all worth it! Good luck with it. C.

Geoff I ask about the grease because a lot of people use wheel bearing grease. After trying several types I now use plain old blue boating grease for two reasons - a/ This grease is much better suited for interaction with saltwater and doesn't clag up like normal wheel bearing grease and maintains its lubricating properties even when mixed with water. Seeing as you will always get some moisture in there this seems a good quality. b/ Its much lower melting point means on a run it becomes much more fluid and both sticks and sloshes around the hub. When I take the buddy cap off after a run there is nice warm liquidy grease. That said if I had the $$$ I'd go Dura Hubs...they do seem to be get the best wrap. As for silicon I 'spose it could help..not something I've tried. I'd look to use a neutral cure compound though to avoid any corrosion issues with acid cure silicon. C.

Generally you have to buy a new power lead in that circumstance..unlikely to be able to get a plug. Leads are about $60 I think. If your reading of 9.6v is correct often equipment will warn of a low voltage if running but won't power up on a low voltage. A $15 gamble would be to go to Jaycar and get a proper electronic contact cleaning spray that will actually etch back the coating on the connector..may just get you out of trouble. C.

Just to help Timmy's issue along he has no telltale and the motor is getting hot. I feel he may have been unlucky and has an impeller problem as well. Any one know if the Yammy impellers are more fragile than others? Is it possible to 'shear' the key/keyway? 13 hours is a little young for an impeller to go but I 'spose it can happen. C.

Maitland Bay falls under Bouddi National Park. The link below shows the area but its not very precise. NPWS may be able to give you GPS marks if you call them. Maitland Bay C.

The motor runs ok on the flushers because there is no back pressure on the exhaust gases. Do you have a tachometer on the dash? If so whats the idle speed on the water? Initially sound like your rpms are a little low for which there could be a number of reasons and the motor is choking up a bit. When this clears you can throttle up as you say. What plugs are installed? C.

Sent you a PM. C.

Timmy Do you want to tow the boat down to Woy Woy this afternoon..I can have a look for you. C.

Geoff A clean surface on the stub where the seal sits is a must. Its not the best seal as it is and any pitting or corrosion with help water to get in. Another cause is putting the trailer in after a bit of a run. The contraction caused by the water on the warm hub has the effect of sucking the water in. Above all quality seals and bearing are the go..something like Timken. Generally the the seal material is better and better fit. End of the day though you will get water in there on a boat trailer and hence the need for regular maintenance. What grease are you using when you pack the bearing? C.

Kill switch is near the key....but its most likely not that if the trim is not working. Worth checking though. Do you have a master power switch or breaker near the battery by any chance? Failing that I think you should be looking towards the fusebox under the motor cowl. There may well be a main fuse that your little spark accident has taken out. C.

Timmy Check your kill switch at the throttle box..usually a red cord attached. Pull it out and clip back in to be sure. Also make sure your in neutral gear..go into forward and reverse to check your in neutral. Try that and come back. C. Ps where are you on the coast.

Timmy When you say won't start..does it turn over ie. the start spins? Or do you turn the key and nothing? What motor? C.