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savit

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Posts posted by savit

  1. Used to use tackleback. Did not like it as the weight  bent easily the light spin  rod  and it was difficult to maintain proper high angle to slip it to the end to the snagged lure when fishing land based. Also the wire did not grab lure quickly and reliably.  So, switched to a quick DIY solution - a sinker with a couple of large a bit rusted  old trebles. Lighter sinker did not bend the rod,  the high angle easily delivered sinker with trebles to the lure. Trebles were 'catching' and holding lure better than tackleback wire, so the process was finishing much faster. 

    If it is warm and shallow then a 'hand release' produced up to half of dozen of 'bonus' lures from a decent snag.

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  2. Hi, if you are using the combo fly reel then I think it was most  likely just a spool tension adjuster  that makes a small resistance to prevent reel from freespoolling once you pulled extra line for casting.  

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  3. 1 hour ago, New Signing said:

    I'm convinced you would actually have to intentionally try to break and ugly stick christ they're tough. As another poster said above lure weight is unlikely to be an issue with them

     

  4. I have 10' Ugly in similar rating and use it usually for bait fishing on rocks. I would not worry much about its "lure rating"  - the rod has f/glass tip which is quite forgiving.

    As for beach bait fishing I would look at 12-13' rods, and something lighter than Uglies unless the rod will spend most time in a rod holder rather than hands.

    I think 8' Ugly is more suitable for pier bait fishing.

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  5. 3 hours ago, DerekD said:

    Thank you for that. Most of those look like forceps. Does it damage your fingers if the fish is jumping around. I had a jewfish on a soft plastic once that had engulfed it. It was still reachable but I had to carefully get my hand and fingers past the teeth to do so. I wrapped my fingers in a rag but got it out and then watch the fish swim off shortly after.

    PS. I love the Mustang quote in your signature. I laughed out loud.

    I would avoid surgical pliers/forceps - they are more for "surgical" work i.e. when fish is small and fixed/still. I borrowed mine once to a guy to release a small shark on the shore - it took him less than 3 sec to break them.

    Think if you need actually pliers or hook remover on a kayak. Hook remover has much simpler and narrower and lighter design (and less chance to rust with a bit of oil service) as well as  longer length. I prefer hook remover for kayak and pliers (more functions and no salt damage)  for shore fishing.

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  6. The combo with 4-8kg rod seems to be made for that specific orange chain store (to avoid competition/price matching etc).  Just call the local store and ask someone  to check what is written on the rod otherwise call AU  ABU office. 

    The ABU pro max combo with similar 4-8kg  rod rating  however abit longer rod  suggests 1/4-5/8 oz  weight lures on ABU website.

    http://www.abugarcia.com/abugarcia-combos-baitcast-combos/abu-garcia-pro-max-combo/1373548.html

  7. Baitcaster rods  are regularly heavily discounted as are less popular - you can get the rod with original price $100 for $25-50 on sale with some research.  Yes, you will have to buy a separate reel - you can not change the handle side,  and I have never seen  left hand wind baitcast combos on sale in Australia. Unlike large or small Brick and Mortars - some online  Australian retailers  do stock left hand wind baitcasters  - it is easy to check online once you collect some model suggestions . 

  8. Alvey reel on Ugly rod on a kayak. I  just leave it in the back vertical rodholder and then paddle or drift until the fish alarm loudly wakes up warning that the fish is on the line and waiting , 1:1 winching power, any-time drag adjustment and zero worries abour water damage to reel or the rod angle, just a fun of fighting the fish.

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  9. I totally agree with Big Neil.

    It is either -  invest your own time into tackle research to get the extra value for the money,  or pay extra for the "insurance"of quality and spend the saved time on the water.

    My most used (a few times per week) lure setup  was  $20 2-4kg Kmart graphite rod, $12 (halfprice sale) JW 2500 size Kmart reel and $7 Kmart braid and $2 Ebay blades. Caught hundreds of tasty flatheads on it plus various bycatch. The $12 reel (5 ball bearings) still quite ok  after 8 years with irregular servicing, 2 "swims"  and bycatch up to 4 feet sharks and rays.

     

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  10. Rod length.  Think where you are going to target redfins.  If it is open spaces e.g lake  - then extra rod length will give you extra casting distance if required. Keep in mind that cheaper longer rods (even graphite) are heavier and are less fun with light small  lures. If you are going to target redfin near structure,  casting under/near hanging  trees where there is not much space and  cast precision is important  e.g river banks , submerged trees - the shorter rod (sub 7")  will give more benefits / control over cast,  and even cheaper shorter rod will not be felt heavy.

    Rod type and brand. Shimano does not supply light spin freshwater  rods to Australia ( same as most other large  fishing tackle  brands). I guess it is  partly because local freshwater tackle market is small , and partly because it will cannibalise $300+  light premium rods  sales. So,  common advice on light gear (no matter whether you targeting freshwater trout or saltwater kings !) on the forums/FB groups is  "bream gear" .  I would suggest to check first the non mainstream brands and models in the local tackle shops  as they might give you more fun with smaller  species like redfins due to lighter rod weight, better sensitivity and better price than common and well-promoted brands/models.

    Reel. Probably Shimano as they get less service complaints than Daiwa. Cheap Sienna will do the job, however Stradics are more popular.

  11. I use mentioned 6.6' 4-8kg Ugly Stik on a kayak (2nd rod is also Ugly Stik) - for bait and heavier lures casting. They are obviously not finesse, however will handle a lot of abuse. 2 piece is very practical both for storing the rod  in the car and  reaching the rod tip (if line wrapped or lure hooked the tip) on a kayak. However for landbased fishing I always prefer lighter (weight, not rating) and longer rods - for easier casts and better sensitivity.

    If you decide to get Ugly Stik - I suggest to take the kayak rod holder (or at least measure its diameter)  with you to the shop and check, as some Ugly Stik butts are too big to fit.

  12. On 12/13/2019 at 7:28 PM, Yowie said:

    Sorry - meant Big W, though they are now selling more of the complete  outfits (rod and reel) than individual rods or reels. I have been buying some of the 6 foot spin rods for around $25 - they were just under $20 a couple of years ago.

    JW Bullseye rod?

  13. 6 minutes ago, Yowie said:

    A rod for about $30 at Woolies, and a reel around $50. Brands do not matter too much. You can buy a reasonable rod and reel combo for less than $100 at a shop or other specialist tackle stores.

    2 piece rod and 6 pound mono on the reel does me.

    Probably not what you are looking for, but no need to spend big dollars on fishing gear. Then again, I have been fishing for about 60 years, and still use handlines in various locations.

     

    Rod at Woolies? Which section?

  14. 2 hours ago, kingie chaser said:

    PM sent Damo.

    Also Dinga is no longer a site sponsor of FR, so don't see the need to flog that one as there are plenty of other retailers doing just as good if not better deals if you join the 'club'

    However I do continue to use Dinga & it is competitive & they have a very good free postage service for people who sign up.

     

    Just saying for the record!

    Thanks kingie chaser.

    Did I miss any announcement on the forum re Dinga status?

    @mrsswordfisherman , do you mind to confirm the above?

  15. I would be looking for  graphite or light composite  2 or 3 piece rod 12 feet, and reel size  to match.  FX 4000 would be too small for 12'rod and would not last long due to low-cost internals.   

    I would take the rod back to the shop and then wait until real Xmas sales start - if on budget. 

    If in hurry - call Dinga (Fishraider sponsor), explain them what you want and most likely they will find good value for money combo for you that will fit your budget.

    Most of active members of the forum probably spent more than $110 for surf rod and reel, so I would not expect many suggestions.

     

  16. Just some info re  JW Wobblers  weights etc before it goes...:

     

    Jarvis Walker Wobbler  made in 2 sizes 7g and 28g , 2 in a pack 

    https://www.jarviswalker.com.au/jarvis-walker-wobbler-lures.html

     

    Tsunami Wobbler (distributed by Jarwis Walker) comes in  2 sizes 7g and 28g however   several colors 

    https://www.jarviswalker.com.au/tsunami-wobbler-lures.html

     

    All/Most available through Fishraider sponsor Dinga website from $3 to $5 (cheaper than Kmart's $5.50)  + usual free delivery and 5% Fishraider discount on top of that.  

     

    I would love to see Waza Wobblers  though suspect that  probably they will be suitable only for direct wind Alveys on f/glass rod 😃

     

    and yes DIY is fun!

     

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