pelican

Ok who stuck the sicker on the gunnel??? Ya can't blame the cute dog . Sorry I am one of those neat everything must be straight sort of people It looked rough out there from the car this mornig

All are avaliable without branding at the workwear shops - Steve I have sent you a PM Just find out brand and style and if they don't stock it they will source it for you. The good ones that breath and have removable liners for colder weather aren't cheap but they are avaliable. Removable liner is great for washing as if you are active in them they do tend to wreak a bit. The thing to look for is the hood . Of all the jackets I have had most are let down by crap hoods. The sailing ones have better hoods but you have to try em on and see what suits ya big head - ha ha I stuff them up and tear them , get them dirty so I tend to go reasonably cheap and replace them every few years.

Hi Trapper Yeah I know I am unlikely to ever be on the wrong side of the law and sick to the rules but from experience in other things discretion is a dangerous thing as they don't teach them how to use it. If they do run a course for the officers ( and they do in a way as their supivisor sets some boundaries) those boundaries should be public. I don't want to get done because every day I do the same speed through a spot and then on day 3 officer says today it is too fast or too much wake. Good news , well sort of, is with GPS track and history you could actually prove what speed you are doing but still be screwed as the officers judgement was you were disturbing others etc etc. Discretion when it comes to the actual rules and definitions is a joke and a moveable feast but discretion in application is possibly OK if used responsibly Years ago in the USA they got 20 experienced highway patrol officers to stand on the side of the road, then in a car oncomming etc and estimate how fast a car was going ( pre radar in some states over there) and the results summed it up. They were crap at accessing speed unless it was extreme. Their roadside manner training was the tactic to actually bluff people into believing they were speeding and they were trained in that dominate aggressive behavour we all know. The result was immigrants and people with poor english skills got done and educated people didn't. The old eyeball is a very bad measure as it is inconsistant and changable every day and to which brain it is attached. Knowing that with a broke NSW Govt things like Maritime have to continue to be profitable and also pay dividends etc and that worries me that it will no longer be a service but a business with quotas or will I call it a budget for all types of revenue. So back to the question Can you plane a boat through a no wash zone if there is no speed limit or if there ais a speed limit and your boat planes at that speed - go for it or not? If your boat produces less height of wash at planing speed - go for it? Can I run my ski boat through a no wash zone at 60mph as it pruduces only a little wake for a very short time as only the prop is in the water? What about coming off the plane as you enter a no wash zone . My cruiser punches out a 3foot wall of whitewater which will possibly swamp boats in the no wash zone. I wasn't in the zone . Am I still in the shit. An example is the spit if you run parallel to the headlands where the signs are . Wash travels a long way?? We have 30m and 60m rules are they not enough ? The wakeboard boat that does it regularly just off that point? A boat designed to make wake?

But that's what I am asking . We know the "law" and that is OK. The difficulty is in the enforcement and inconsistancy. I want to know there interpretation of disturbance etc that the supervisors have given the officers as a definition and I don't just mean the old coppers one where if they are a smart arse go them for any small offence to get your authority over the situation back. Years ago the blokes never issued fines except if you were an absolute danger to society or had caused damage - a lot of it was called common sense. Now they have tools in new rules, budgets , dare I say the word quotas so it is only fair they actually tell us the definition and manner in which they are told to enforce the law. Unfortunately the old guys and their well learnt discretion is gradually gone and now you have people who want an authorative job out there. Yes I know a few of them socially and nice blokes but in uniform on a bad day enforcing what their protocols and targets are I wouldn't want to be in the area they are at on a bad day especially when a supevisor is out on their boat for a day. How do they measure the disturbance to others, does there have to be others there being disturbed, do they have to see damage and so on, is it just their word or in these days of cheap video cameras why don't they do that?. Like seriously in the same no wash zone when the wind is blowing 40 knots there is a 30cm shore wave that goes for hours or days in every direction so it can't be a damage specific to your boat. You wouldn't have a 6foot punt out in that by choice . If it is another boat you have disturbed was it not seaworth if it's occupants were that disturbed? No I don't go round doing a big wake and don't like when idiots do either but and on my boat and other and no one knows the answer. Wth 2 tonne of boat on the plane it is a different sort or wake - low and fast travelling as opposed to displacement wake that is large thick and forcefull. Won't even mention the rivercats wake which is under the water until 10 feet of water depth near the shore at which point yu could surf it. They both have a similar force on another object and a lot depends on that object. Frankly some boats shouldn't be in the areas they end up as they don't have very good seakeeping abilities and if it was a Saturday morning they should be aware that they are in a high traffic zone for example around the Spit but from a officers point of view it could be seen that my wake is a disturbance to them. Their dinghy may be perfect on a weekday. Don't know if I am eplaining myself but I find discretion is Ok when used sensibly and I haven't ever been finesd or cautioned but the attitude some young officers have is more jobsworth and officialdom and about ticking boxes than actually making boating better. In the above case I think the officer should warn the dinghy, inexperienced kayaker or rowing scull that their at great risk to them and their vessel and should possibly move them on if they are complaining about being disturbed. When was the last time they fined a rowing scull or kayaker for being a pain in the bum or an idiot - pretty hard when no license is required and no ID need be carried. Education works and fines should be a last resort

Seriously the yaris won't let you down ever if sensible as it is no different to having 5 fat blokes in it. Just do it so you can get fishing and know it is reliable

In theory any scent or oil may attract fish as they can be curious but it doesn't mean they get on the hook.

I'd like a proper definition from the people who enforce it. I know people have enquired privately before and gt quite lame answers. Is this something that FR could do on the basis if representing all it's members , actually talk to police , maratime and get in writing the manner in which they are supposed to enfored no wash. This part where it left open to the officers interpretation is dodgy and changable daily on their mood. What exactly s disturbance? does there have to be a complaint? I have been warned years ago and my wash ws affecting no one and was not excessive or in a no wash zone and it peeved me , probably just pulled for an inspection and couldn't find anything wrong so threw in the "and watch your wash son" grrrrrrr

Do a search for one of mariner31 posts and then look it up on snopes as the company has put out several press releases on the myths of wd40

Mate launched boat and asked his new girlfriend to hold the bow rope and handed to her. Walked off to go park the car. Came back to see boat 50m off the pontoon and the arguement started while he stripped off. He couldn't believe she was so thick as not to be able tp hold a rope for 5 minutes. Well just before he stopped ranting and before he jumped in she pulled the rope from behind her back and .......... He had handed her a spare length of rope by accident. Still together and he will never live it down - man did it cost him some flowers to save face

Hi Ross Most people end up being very happy with new motors as they have advanced and especially if they are comparing it to 15 year old models as it is significant but changing a late model for a late model is a harder decision as it won't be as larger % improvement is the way I see it. Expectation of the owner ( and what the dealer or mates have told him or websites) plays such a large part as well as if you update and expect the same just without any ongoing motor hassle ( ie reliability) and you actually get a better balaced or performing boat of course you are going to be happy. I have seen people with beaten up old worn props or motors out of tune all of a sudden start enjying boating again after repair just because the motor sounds on song like it should and it performs better than the dog it was. Props really are a black art and some brands just don't seem to have a good enough selection considering the range of different boats out there. Tuffy have you actually done the numbers on speed from a gps . revs , gearbox ratio, wot achieved, and worked out your prop slippage at different speeds? Doing that could point you to a correct deciion as to whether the prop is doing it's job and literally graphs real life a torque , power, performance cuve for your boat. A couple of timed runs accoss the tide on a flat day and a out of the hole time. It would be great if you get that data and then do the same if you splurge on a new motor to see an changes in real life performance in day to day use. I have done it with bikes over the years with so called performance enhacements etc and often it is all noise but you feel like it is better or maybe it is just me and no matter how quick and better hadling it is I can't ride any better- hmmmm ! The dyno of truth is needed. At least you could do it honestly unlike half the magazines or the ones who just print promo dribble.

That is a great idea - fish each others boat for a morning and see how each compares in the same conditions. Take a few bags of sand or water bladder to get the weight sorted a bit Best way is to try and trial a couple of motors and especially if it is a current model boat and a dealer has a demo boat you can catch a ride in if you can take your boat on the same day to do a exact comparison.

A lot for teh last 20 years are freshwater cooled and run a heat exchanger and I personally wouldn't own one that isn't . It can be difficult to fit in some small engine bays and to get a header tank high enough. You can use a flush port on them either way. When replacing manifolds I would have chosen to go for aftermarket stainless ones that last longer as well. Sometimes with a unknown motor it is better to start fresh with a short block or even a fully dressed one and slot it in so all the unknown little things do not plague your enjoyment and safety. I don't understand why your mechanic didn't notice a rusted bore when he did the exhaust as surely he would hav ecompression tested it and also if at all suspect lifted the head to make sure it wasn't also a dead gasket issue at the time he did that work. Most mercruiser guys use borescopes to quickly check these things as so often it is the case that one after the other water damage will have damaged parts of the motor and they will fail. Was the engine cooling system pressure tested after last rebuils?, does the motor show signs that it has been overheated in the past? Have water pump etc been changed? Are alarms on motor working? Bearings and rods are next. Was the motor run regulary or has it been left to sit idle for 6 months? Something isnt right 'here and a thorough inspection of past work and current motor are required to see just what is going on and a few questions.

With sanctuary cove on at the minute and the market dead all manufacturers may have demo models at a discount that may ease the pain if you ask around . Was recently in NZ for the Aukland boat show and BRP was doing the 5 year warranty and 1500 rebate. Not sure if it is a boat show thing that was NZ specific or is avaliable to all dealers. For such a important motor hp range 40-70 I am surprised more magazines haven't done better bling tests and put them on the dtno as well to come up with meaningful date to campare the motors. The only good news I know in the ones mentioned that I haven't heard that any are dogs or have any more issues than the rest of the different manufacturers range. Some brands seem to go through annodes pretty fast which rings alarm bells but I guess as long as the annode is going it shouldn't be the block. I guarantee you the weights in the brochures are wrong by some manufactures and some powerheads have a lot of weight well out over the transom. Be interesting what other info you can find out and to see whether what you buy lives up to the extra HP ie 10hp That's 20% increase . you might expect wonderul things but realistically unless it is woefully underpowered to start with , I might have trouble explaining this but here goes, all that extra HP is in the last 15% of the rev range where they chew juice and very few of us actually run our boats at except to get them on the plane or to ski with if you get what I mean. Yes they do produce 50hp but generally on the plane at 3500-4000 rpm it is probably like 30hp odd. At midrange a 60hp is only going to be a couple of hp better than a 50hp if staying with 4 strokes . Check the actual rated KW not the cowl rating as with the 10% variation you may find if you are currently on a 40hp that is rated 43hp and you go to a 50 that is rated only 45hp you might not be getting good value. Personally I couldn't help myself and do a test with a battery and fuel tank moved forward to extend planing length and balance hull and possibly a bigger permatrim ( not crappy foils) if midrange is the issue , check motor height , props, or go on a diet to get the 40hp doing it OK. Some hulls if overloaded or unbalanced will never perform regardless unless you overpower them to hell As for servicing costs with the nimber of businesses that won't be around next year good mechanics will be at a premium so getting the first 2-3 services in the deal with a larger dealer could be a good idea or get a written fixed price for the first few services. I have seen some realy silly amounts being charged this past summer and original consumable parts seem to be having mysterious price rises a bit too often. On a boat I have recently helped with my mate was convinced he needed extra HP but after a few hours playing with setup and acouple of props he is happy ( not estatic) with what he has without spending big $ . Part of the issue with that boat was ethanol fuel he was using. Simply it does not bang in it full ULP has and that was a couple of extra % power along with a better quality oil. Every little bit helped convince him to stick with it as the $ for the extra HP he would actually get is silly The other way around this to get a possibly spectacularly performing boat since it is a bit bloated is to enquire with the manufacturer about uprating the HP rating. Some do it as they later realise motors are getting lighter and theit hull is an underperformer with lesser HP with gear loaded into them. Check to see if previous or current model of your hull has same HP rating . How doesa 70hp sound??? Also notice some people slightly extending the waterline length and bouyancy with a pair of hull pods on the transom to keep good performance without changing motors. Initially on older boats as they couln't get 4 strokes on the transom due to weight but see some added on current boats due to them being fully decked out and heavy. Dicko was after a 40hp a short while ago ( not sure of shaft length) so might be worth a PM but yours might be too new for the budget. Cheers

Drown - I saw the news footage the boat was 20 foot up the rock ledge and very dry. It really takes some skill to park a boat like that without a trailer

The problem you are having is it speed or holeshot or overall erformance. A permatrim may help depending on what you are trying to do and making sure it is now propped right is a definately cheaper option. A simple rework of your existing prop may be even cheaper depending on just how big a dog it has become. Like all outboards and especially those that only produce torque high in the rev range than if you don't let it get there it will be a dog. Go teh cheap set up and prop ideas first and see ow it goes is my thought Haven't looked at the numbers but the 40hp honda was heavy from memory and a strong motor but I think the new 50hp is a light one in the class. Since weight is an issue I would stick a sandbag at the back of the boat next time you are out and check how the boat sits as it isn't only HP rating but transom weight. Older hulls just don't cope with bloated outboards. If you troll you might want to find ot true idle speed as have been on a boat recently and at slowest idle it was way way too fast One of the bass boat mags in the states did a 50hp shootout but I can't find it - 5 different brands I think. Even included a old 2 banger carby as they are cheap. Have a search. EDIT- It was January issue BWB mag (www.bwbmag.com) I don't have acopy but maybe it is on site or you can just subscribe to that article or just buy the Jan issue. Double check in case I am wrong Friend just sent copy There are quite a few things wrong with the way this test was done as I don't think it was a head to head comparison and done on different days etc have sent you a PM with a discussion on it 1956565_50hpShootout_.pdf

Ca't get to mine today but will have a look. My GPS reciever was a GR9 or something and I had a second one thet was the 12 satelite model and when I changed over I only remember one lead off the "Y "but that was 2 yeras ago. Will have a look as I can't remember a seperate power

Glad they and the rescuers are safe but I hope there are some photos and film as people need to see these incidents to understand teh danger even inside the heads. What the hell were they doing in that weather in that state?? Did it drag anchor Were they charged? Lots of questions

Is it a actual HB GPS. When Ii put mine on it was simply a case of using the "Y" connector and plugging it in. It was then recognised as an avaliable option on the menu. Why has it not got teh plug on it? If it isn't a HB original reciever then it has to be installed as a NMEA unit

Dan if you are going wide I don't think a handheld meets the safety equipment rules. All about aerial height and tranitting power.

There is the joy of finding a good fibreglass one but there is the knowing it is a good one with a tinny. There is no 100% way without drilling ( and sellers won't cop that) it but...... There is structural damage where the transom has been overstressed - like too big a motor, hitting sand bars flat chat , just old glass badly laid up and trailer mishaps . You may be able to see some severe crazing or cracks of the FG in transoms which this has happened to There is structural damage from the actual wood in the transom rotting. The transo is layers of glass and resin coating a plywood core. The core should never get wet if it is encased properly so a lot of builders skimped and used non marine ply in old boats. Yeah not real bright. A lot of other old plys were not that good a quality and have voids in them, poor compression at manufacture, moisture and crap glues. This added to builders not sealing holes in transoms for motor bolts and drains leads to a transom absorbing water and then rotting. Rot is either the glue not being waterproof, wood swelling with moisture absobed or a fungal, mould that breakes it down into a mush. Fresh water is what kills them as most moulds, mildew and fungus don''t happen in salt water. Rain water in a hull bottom spells danger for transoms and stringers if they are not properly encased. 1. If it has a motor on it tilt the motor up and then use your body weight to place a appropriate mount of force down near the prop. Appropriate would be the amount of force teh motor would place on the transom punching into a wave just off the plane . Ie that means take a fat , to very fat mate. If the transom flexes more than it should it has a problem. It could be rot Some brands are known to rot, some are known to be weak in the transom and others are known to have used poor quality materials or badly designed. Spend 5 minutes on the phone with Huey once you find a prospect to learn it's weaknesses or whether to bother. Floors and stringers are just as expensive to repair and hard to tell if rotten until well gone. More later when I get a minute

I nearly bring myself to laugh about it now. Only cause I saw some newer blokes after me have to do a worse one - they sent that container to scrap as it was dried meats and stuff that had fresh water in the container from a damaged roof. Lets just say moths , flies and stuff were in there. If you think metal isn't porus and holds a smell you are wrong. They knew something was wrong as it was too heavy for the usual forklift to get off the truck and was a little ripe so to speak. The one and only I did had all the old blokes disappeared when it was due to be opened. It literally exploded open as it was pressurised with fermentation. Yep they are pretty airtight and I know the new ones have a breather valve as they are even better sealed than 20 years ago. I'll leave that to your imagination. The yard where it was initially opened and was oozed on ( those who have ever opened a dead container will know what I mean) even after fire hose , commercial glen 20, caustic and pressure washing was a place to avoid on a warm day as the concrete and tarmac would reak. Your skin and hair absorbed it so no number of showers washed it off for several days . Nose and sense of smell I reckon have never been the same. I know I could never work at the fish markets. They dozer a special hole at the dump when it happens and really off stuff needs to be disposed of.. Fire brigade hosed it out in the field - I assume it went to scrap as well. Pitty some poor mongrel if he bought it or a shed on his farm. Enough of this I want to be able to eat tonight or at least in the next couple of days.

There are cheapish freezer 9volt battery powered alarms avaliable now for camping fridges with a peizzo alarm as when out bush you can't afford to lose all your fresh stuff. On some large fridges we had with a business that has a phone attached and would call home if temperatures went outside set levels as they contained thousands in stock and it was a food safety thing. I personally would not like to thank any posters on this thread as reading it made me remember smells I hoped I would never experience again, cleaning stock out of a mobile coolroom container after a electronics failure ( it warmed not cooled) with a forklift into a garbage truck, had to move container to middle of a nearby vacant lot due to complaints from neighbouring business 2 hundred meters away. Even the garbo wandered off upwind as he couldn't take it. Those carbon masks work but I swear evertime we used that forklift I could smell that tainted smell and we just threw out any clothes we were wearing. The jobs you do when young and stupid.

Probably a nuclear submarine with torpedoes

XD100 less smoke , less friction when swallowing and sweet smelling exhaust.

Sad to say jackets will just make bodies easier to find. Commonsense and watching and learing is the only thing that will save lives You can't legislate common sense or experience. Many of teh deaths have a contributing factor of health or fitness as well but they have died fishing. Once in the water - even youn and fit - chances are 50 50 With more participation and only so many places to go and the agression of some existing fishermen people will push teh limits and fish areas in the wrong conditions. Stay safe everyone