slinkymalinky
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Posts posted by slinkymalinky
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G'day Meh,
If she doesn't see this post and reply (which she almost certainly will), send Roberta a PM... she's a local and catches a lot of fish.
Cheers, Slinky
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Awesome result on that sort of gear. Fantastic fish even on normal 'Pig gear'.
Cheers, Slinky
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Sure is
Cheers, Slinky
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G'day Archilles,
No matter what sounder you get, identifying the species is down to experience and interpretation of what you're seeing on screen. The better the information you get on screen, the more you have to work with to make an interpretation but unfortunately, the returns on the sounder don't come with labels. It's more about where the fish are, how they're behaving and so-on. A single snapper or a single Kingfish will more or less look exactly the same on the sounder (size notwithstanding) in isolation.
I swear by my Lowrance but the new HDS series are vastly better again. Not a bad place to start looking.
Cheers, Slinky
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I settled on (and now have) a Nitro Outlaw Tournament Bass... 6' 1-3kg and sweet as a nut!! (and hopefully not too obvious among the many other rods in the rack).
Cheers, Slinky
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20grams from Glory... but I'd be smilin' anyway. What a great run you're having in the comps, Bubba. Great news that you did so well and scored some $$ to boot. The way you're going we'll be watching you on the AFC next year!!
Congrats boys
Cheers, Slinky
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G'day Harry,
I've got a Fireblood, a couple of Sols and a previous model Luvias. All very different reels and I love all of them. It all depends on your budget and what you want in the reel. If you want something that is physically light, then the Luvias is awesome (but I haven't tried the new ones). If you want something that is amazingly tough for the size, then I wouldn't buy any of them... I'd buy an ABU Soron STX... under $200 but the equal of any of them in performance IMHO.
If the only reason you want a new reel is the drag quality, then just get a set of Carbontex washers for the exceller... for around $15 you'll have a totally different reel.
If the reason you want to upgrade is that you like new toys (just like me) then any of the reels you listed are great... just get the one that your heart yearns for most
Cheers, Slinky
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Great result Dagz. Certainly worth sticking with a pattern that works that well... a lot of people (myself included) who have mostly stuck with the washing machine spots for Drummer would love to get consistent catches like that.
Cheers, Slinky
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Jigging and spinning are different styles of fishing. Jigging is using usually large metal jigs that you drop straight down and work vertically under the boat... hopefully over a reef or structure holding fish. A jig rod is often (but not always) short and designed to work line classes and lure weights that are relatively heavy. Most (but not all) aren't really suitable for casting lures.
Spinning rods are for exactly what you'd expect although the description goes a bit wider. They're rods suitable for fishing involving spinning with lures but really can be used to describe most kinds of fishing involving casting, where the rod is matched to a spinning (egg-beater) style reel (there are then a bunch of spinning rod styles themselves designed for specific purposes though...)
What sort of fishing do you want to do? What would you like to catch and where?
Cheers, Slinky
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G'day tangled,
Pflueger Trion or Berkeley Dropshot are both fantastic value for money... both in the $130-$150 bracket and well worth considering.
Cheers, Slinky
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I meant to add a little note. Around the time that I was giving Jewhunter heaps for having blanked while I already had 2 for the day, he adopted a particularly innovative approach to tackling each snag. Here's a photos of his technique for approaching snags...
Note the relative positioning of the Bass-rich snags, boat, guide and Slinky. As a guide I think it may leave a little to be desired as I did struggle to get a cast in for a little while. I'm sure it was unintentional.
Cheers, Slinky
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Thanks for the great arvo out in the SS Bathtub, JH.
The stretch of river we fished is one of Jewhunter's favourite spots... he's pretty spoiled for choice as far as Bass water is concerned.
The snags where we pulled fish might as well have had signs on them saying 'FISH RIGHT HERE'. They looked that good. Big tangles of fallen trees in 12-15' of water with lots of horizontal logs and branches. It's a pretty wild way to fish and with the little Jazz spinnerbaits we were using we could throw the lures right into the gnarliest, ugliest parts of the snags and nearly always bounce them back out again. Getting hooked fish out of there though wasn't always so easy.
To be honest, I was undergunned in the rod department. The little Abu with its carbon drag was up to the task but with any kind of serious drag or thumb pressure, the 1-3 Traverse X totally pancaked. Considering that as a rod it was a top quality mid-priced stick in its day, rod technology has come a long way. It was too short too... even though we were throwing lures that only weighed 1/8oz I would have liked to be able to get another 5 or so metres when casting and more importantly, had a bit more ability to direct fish where I wanted them once hooked.
Absolutely stoked about my pb and very glad JH came good and pulled a couple of nice fish after I started to remind him that including last trip, I was something like 5/0 up on him
Magic spot. (particularly when you don't try to fish it in board shorts in winter)
Cheers, Slinky
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Popular online store has some good specials on at the moment. $200 bucks for a TD Sol Rod. Might be worth a look at some of there rods. I think its like 20 % all rods.
Cheers
Thanks CL... but not light enough
Do I sound like I'm being fussy It really does have to be ultra light.Cheers, Slinky
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G'day Jake,
It sounds like your outfit might be a bit on the heavy side.
For the sort of fishing you're talking about a light spin outfit would be better suited. Do you have a smaller reel/lighter rod? Preferably loaded with braid?
For that outfit filled with mono, you probably don't need a leader, although for flicking plastics you could probably put a light leader of around 6-10lb on the end but I reckon you'll have a bit of trouble effectively casting lures and plastics for bay fishing so the leader will be the least of your challenges.
Cheers, Slinky
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LOX make a nice lil stick as well which is similar to the nitro and same warranty but half the price
Only as a spin rod... not a baitcaster.
Cheers, Slinky
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Hi Raiders,
My new ABU 1500 baitcaster is currently matched to a 5'3" Silstar Traverse X 1-3kg rod. It's a great rod but a little outdated and I'm looking for something in high modulus graphite in the 1-3kg range. It's for casting lures down to about 3g / 1/8oz (yes... with a baitcaster).
I've found a Gary Howard stick and I think there's a Nitro... are there any others?
Cheers, Slinky
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Love the photo from behind the reel mgj. Well done on fooling them... it can be very frustrating fishing.
Cheers, Slinky
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Tight lines for your trip, boys. Very, very jealous
Cheers, Slinky
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Boys Im stuck in Byron Bay for work and need to ge4t out of town for a fish, does anyone know of a good fishing charter off Gold coast?
I would like to go jigging or plastics for snapper , kings etc
please pm any info
cheers for any info
PM sent, Chef.
For what it's worth for other Raiders, I'm a local and was fishing the Gold Coast area for many years before moving up here and I am yet to uncover an offshore charter in the area that I'd pay money to go out with.
Don't be shy about sending me a PM about wanting to get out fishing up here though. If we get on and the timing works out, I'm always happy to show people around my local water.
Cheers, Slinky
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Reproduced courtesy of Alan Tani
this was shipped from texas last year.........
here's a link to the manufacturer's website.
http://www.studio-oceanmark.com/
these are the only schematics that i was able to find.
prior to cracking this reel open, the only thing i knew about this reel was that it had cork drags.
here are a couple of close ups to get you acquainted with our new friend.
"dual one way roller and high modular gear box" is translated as having a pair of anti-reverse roller bearings stacked up one on top of the other and a big main gear.
the quadrant is marked with "min, stike, fight and max" but there are no detents to stop the lever. the holes in the quadrant are for the click mechanism only. the notches seen on the top of the quadrant allow removal of the side plate screws without removal of the quadrant first.
i got a good chuckle with this. i'm not sure that thumbing the spool will add much to a 20, 25 or 30# drag setting.
the spool is about 34mm wide.
the height of the spool is about 67mm.
the handle arm is 90mm from axis to axis.
the handle grip is tapered and 30mm at it's widest point.
the overall length is about 91mm.
to avoid infringing on tiburon's t-bar patent, this handle needs to have a 9 degree offset or less. tiburon's patent goes from 10 to 25 degrees. i will let someone else measure this one.
the reel seat is stamped stainless steel and it's held with four stainless steel machine screws.
what do you think? maybe a 135 degree throw on the lever?
the gear case cover tells us we have a 4.9 to 1 gear ratio.
individually numbered reels. nice touch.
let's run the reel through it's paces. judging by the water spots and a little salt accumulation, it is fair to say that this reel has been fished already. keep that in mind. first, the preset knob was backed off all the way. spinning the spool several times, i got a consistent 12 seconds of freespool. um, not very impressive, but not necessarily deal killer either. second, i turned the preset knob down until the drag pressure plates inside came in contact with the drag washer. then i backed off the preset knob until the the pressure plates lost contact. this will give me the maximum drag at strike before losing freespool. at this setting, the freespool remained at 12 seconds.
the corresponding drags pressures measured at each setting are 1 pound at min, 6 pounds at strike, 18 pounds at fight and over 30 pounds at max. basically at max, the drag locked down. i am logging this down as greater than 30 pounds because i did not want to pull any further. of concern is the fact that the handle became increasingly difficult to turn at higher drag settings. this points to an issue with the right main side plate bearing.
remember those notches in the quadrant? they'll come in handy when we pull the side plate.
let's back out each screw.
the reel breaks down easily into two pieces.
the side plate screws appear dry but they have a rubber o-ring. i would prefer grease.
here's a look down the throat of the frame assembly. the left side plate bearing will need to be checked for grease, but don't pull on it just yet.
back out both screws and remove the name plate.
a small suprise awaits.
the bearing is flanged. you could have pulled from the inside all day and it never would have budged.
it measures 6x12x4.
this bearing was well greased on both sides. we will grease it again, anyway.
back into the side plate it goes, followed by the name plate.
let's check the gear case cover.
hmmmm, the screws are dry as a bone.
remember the the daiwa saltiga frame that i cracked? let's not go for a repeat performance of that stunt. we'll oil the screws instead.
back in it goes.
check the reel seat screws.
dry as a bone and loose! just a little red loctite and a little salt. glad we caught this one when we did.
what to do about the reel seat? if you just use loctite, corrosion will lock up the screws and/or eat away at the aluminum to make the threads loose. if you grease the screw holes, you avoid corrosion but the screws might back out on you. you must pay your money and take your choice. i will grease the screws and screw holes, then torque down the screws nice and tight. if you do this, you will have to make it a point to wiggle the reel while it's on the rod and make sure it's not loose. i'm greasing these.....
ok, the frame assembly is done. let's set it aside.
use a wide, well fitting blade to remove the preset knob cap. let's not leave any tool marks on the soft aluminum.
now we need to remove the spool shaft screw.
use a crescent wrench to hold the left side of the spool shaft.
hold the spool shaft with the crescent wrench and remove the spool shaft screw.
out comes the spool shaft screw.
out comes the spool.
like the old swordsmiths of feudal japan, these gentlemen signed their work.
remember the problem we had cranking the handle at higher drag settings? here's the reason. it's the right main side plate bearing and it's already rusted. it measures 6x19x6. water was likely allowed to pool with the reel on it's right side, water seeped in and the bearing rusted tight. a new bearing from bocabearings.com will fix this.
the reset knob also has a bearing. it measures 6x17x6 and helps carry the load when the drag lever is pushed forward. this design is similar to, actually it is exactly the same as, the design of the accurate boss series of reels.
the spool shaft slides out easily. here are the two pressure plates. this design is also exactly the same as the accurate boss series of reels.
the drag washers in this reel appear to be teflon. this would explain the big jump in drag pressure when pushing the lever from "fight" to "max."
on the left side of the spool is a small click mechanism. this will tell you when line is being pulled out against the drag. this would be an excellent feature for the blind fisherman.
removing the stainless steel retaining ring is very simple.
removing the teflon drag washer is equally as simple.
these are all of the stock carbon fiber drag washers that i have in stock. i was not fortunate enough to find an exact fit, so i will have to hand cut a pair of drag washers to fit.
i ended up matching this to a pair of accurate 665 drag washers.
i used a dremmel to cut down the outer diameter and inner diameter to match the teflon washers. if you do this at home, make sure you don't breathe in the dust.
apply cal's drag grease to the spool and both sides of the drag washer.
install the drag washer, the retaining ring and wipe all of the excess grease from the working surface of the drag washer.
the spool bearings are held in by a retaining ring that is easily removed.
these bearings measured 6x15x5
to achieve the best possible freespool, the bearings were opened up, cleaned with carb cleaner and compressed air, lubed with corrosion x, and re-installed open.
now this was interesting. with absolutely no axial pressure on the bearings, i got 45 seconds of freespool. when i put even the slightest amount of axial pressure on the pressure plates and bearings, the freespool plummeted to 12 seconds. it looks like we need a bearing sleeve to maintain freespool.
and here is our bearing sleeve.
ok, now this is even more bizarre. after reassemblying the bare spool, i'm back down to 15 seconds of freespool. this is after cleaning and lubing the bearings with corrosion x, then letting it sit for several months before finally completing this post.
before shipping the reel out, i decided to give it one more try and lubed it up with this stuff. i took both bearing out, stacked one on top of the other, then added some of this stuff down through the bearings. the freespool time jumped from 15 seconds to 3 minutes. i'm going to have to take a closer look at this stuff.
since it's going to fall out anyway, let's remove the preset knob and bearing assembly and set it aside.
we have a rusted right main side plate bearing to service that requires removal of the main gear. that means the handle has to come off. remove the set screw and the handle nut cap.
remove the handle nut.
remove the handle.
the top of the drive shaft is 7x7mm and is exactly the same size as the drive shaft for the shimano tld 20/25 single speed reel.
remove, in order, the metal washer, the teflon washer and the felt washer.
with a small dental tool, pry out the gasketed retaining ring.
the main gear and drive shaft assembly drops right out, revealing the right main side plate bearing and drive shaft bearing.
we will set this felt washer aside.
remove the right main side plate bearing.
it measures 6x19x9. a very odd size.
i would imagine that the manufacturer specified that this bearing was to be greased. well, gentlemen, there is "greased" and there is "greased." this bearing was poorly greased on one side.
it was not at all greased on the other side. note well that the single most problematic bearing in a lever drag reel is the right main side plate bearing. failing to address this issue ahead of time speaks very poorly of quality control efforts at the manufacturing level.
remove the drive shaft bearing. note that this reel has two anti-reverse roller bearings in series. this is exactly the same system used in the accurate boss reels.
this bearing measures 10x15x4.
it was lightly grease, so it will be fully greased and the shields will be re-installed.
the last bearing is the one found in the preset knob and it measures 6x17x6.
greased on one side, dry on the other. when will people learn HuhHuhHuhHuh
let's pack the bearing with grease and re-install it. also install the felt drive shaft washer.
re-install the main gear and drive shaft assembly.
re-install the gasketed retaining ring.
re-install the felt washer.
re-install the teflon washer.
re-install the metal washer.
re-install the handle.
re-install the handle nut.
re-instal the handle nut cap and retaining screw.
open up the bearing in the preset knob, pack it with grease and re-install it.
we need to drop the preset knob back into the lever drag cam. you have to line it up properly or it will not work. see these stainless steel pins?
push the lever back to the "free" position and find the deepest groove in the cam. it's here at the end of my ballpoint pen.
line up the pins of the preset knob with the deepest notch in the cam and drop it straight in. you'll know if you miss.
slide the spool all the way in and wiggle it until the gear teeth mesh.
hold the left side of the spool shaft stationary with an adjustable wrench and tighten down the spool shaft screw until it is snug.
give the spool a spin just to make sure everything works up to now.
add a very small bead of grease to each screw hole. careful, not too much!
tighten down each of the right side plate screws.
carefully tighten down the preset knob cap with an appropriately sized driver. do not damage with soft aluminum with a screwdriver that is too small.
and we're done!
i just shipped the reel back to it's owner today, and here is where we are. all of the screw holes are lubed, all of the non-spool bearings are packed with grease, the teflon drag washers were replaced with accurate carbon fiber and cal's grease, and the spool bearings were cleaned out, sleeved and lubed with extreme reel plus. the reel delivers 360 seconds of freespool after i set the drags to 2 pounds at minimum, 5 pounds at strike, 15 pounds at fight and 30 pounds at max. the pair of anti-reverse roller bearings held when i pulled once at this 30# drag setting. let's hope this performance is consistent on the water.
alan - 1/29/2009
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G'day Geoff,
There's only one choice for a Daiwa Sol 2000 and thats a Daiwa Sol rod. The reel looks so sexy that it has to have a rod that looks just as good and suits it. They're awesome rods and there's a 2-8lb or 6-10lb.
Cheers, Slinky
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Small King by Adelaide standards, Rezzy maybe... but anyone on the East Coast would give their right arm for a fish like that. Niiiice
Cheers, Slinky
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Congrats on your first Stripey, Josh.
Next time you find the salmon working on 'eyes'... if you don't have a fly rod try a 1" powerbait micro with a small dropshot hook just through the nose. Cast it out and fish it dead in the water. The other option is to try going completely the other way and put on a 5" or even 7" SlugGo which sometimes works.
And if all else fails, take a wig so at least you can replace all the hair you pull out.
Cheers, Slinky
The Dark Art
in Fishing Reports
Posted
A great catch and a couple of awesome kickers in there for braving the weather, boys. Nice work
Sharing coffee cups is money in the bank for those times when your fishing mate is kicking your butt and you need to borrow one of his gun lures or A+ grade weed
Cheers, Slinky