slinkymalinky
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Posts posted by slinkymalinky
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Parma (sometimes called a Scaleyfin)...
A Banded Parma I think.
cheers, Slinky
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What size reel is it cut_loose. I've got a Sol rod and Hodgey has one too... they're great rods and the reels look awesome on them.
Cheers, Slinky
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With the growing number of king-jigging posts at this time of year, I've copied a couple of reel rebuilds from Alan Tani with his kind permission.
Here are a couple of reels that are tough enough to press into service for the task, which have been added in the tutorial sub-forums...
and
Cheers, Slinky
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Reproduced courtesy of Alan Tani
this arrived in the mail last month.
and with it came a note.
i called the owner and we spoke for quite a while. i carefully explained to him what i thought the cause was, what his options were and where i thought this reel would now fit in his arsenal. what we finally settled on were carbontex drags, an anti-reverse roller bearing, tube and dog, and an oversized handle grip.
first, go to the shimano website for the schematic.
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/displayimage.php?album=8&pos=480
to service the spool bearings, remove the left side plate screws (key #767).
remove the left side plate assembly (key #307).
remove the spool (key #498).
i see plenty of corroded rod clamps (key #351, 352, 353, and 354). let's grease the bolts so we don't have to worry about this anymore.
now for the right spool bearing. remove the four brake shaft holder screws (key #312), the brake shaft holder (key #313) and the four brake collars (key #257). this will make it easier to remove the right spool bearing. for a spool this big, the brakes are of limited benefit. they will not be re-installed.
the right spool bearing (no key #) is 6x12x4mm and is rusted. it's a common problem. to remove the bearing, we need to remove the cross pin (no key #). squeeze the cross pin halfway with a pair of vise grips that have a slot cut it in.
now we're going to use the drill press to push the pin out the rest of the way. i've tried to punch them out freehand. it's not easy.
install the new bearing and cross pin.
center the cross pin with the vise grips.
the left side plate bearing (key #484) is 4x11x4mm. remove the bearing retainer (key #318).
loosen the three "br" set plate screws (key #328) that surround the bearing.
pull the bearing out with your bearing pulling tool.
this bearing is fine, so let's clean it out with carb cleaner and compressed air, lube it with corrosion x and re-install it.
torque down the "br" set plate screws (key #328).
reinstall the bearing retainer (key #318).
put a very tiny bead of grease in the screw holes, or better yet, on the screws themselves.
install the spool (key #498).
install the side plate assembly (key #340) and add a thin film of grease around the screw hole.
torque down the left side plate screws (key #767)
now watch it spin!!!!!!!!!!!!!
now for the right side. first, remove the handle nut plate screw (key #128).
remove the handle nut and plate (key #'s 261 and 262).
remove the handle (key #495) and drive shaft shield (key #264).
remove the star drag (key #265).
remove the click pin (key #295) and click spring (key #296).
remove the star drag washer (key #266), the drag spring washer 9L (key #267), the drag spring washer 9H (key #268), the bearing thrust washer (key #269), and the bearing seal (key #270).
remove the four right side plate screw A's (key #766).
remove the two right side plate screw C's (key #765).
remove the two right side plate screw D's (key #764).
remove the right side plate (key #932). note that the right side plate (key #932), the drive shaft bearing (key #486), the roller clutch bearing (key #493), the roller clutch inner tube (key #494) and the line clip (key #280) are removed as a unit.
now we're going to remove the drag stack. this is important. do not pull on the main gear (key 292) with the drag washers still in place. invariably, the anti-reverse ratchet (key #294) is pulled up as well. this damages the anti-reverse pawl (key #303).
so, let's carefully remove each washer, one at a time.
you can see where it's starting to stick.
lift up the main gear (key #292), taking care to separate the main gear from drag washer A (key #418).
remove drag washer A (key #418). note that this washer was sticky as well.
remove the screws (key #305) and pawl keeper (key #306).
carefully remove the anti-reverse ratchet (key #294) and the anti-reverse pawl (key #303) as a unit.
let's take a look at the old pawl compared to a new one. note the dent and the increased spread of the springs. this is the reason that the pawl fails.
re-install the pawl (key #303) and ratched gear (key #294) as a unit. lube the pawl with corrosion x first.
re-install the pawl keeper (#306) and screws (key #305).
now we're almost ready to grease and install the new carbontex drag washers.
the carbontex washer that goes underneath the main gear is 1.14 mm thick.
this is a penn ht-100 drag washer from a 4/0 senator, part #6-113h. it is a little thicker and the inside diameter is just a hair larger.
i had noted that the drag pressure in a few trinidad's maxed out at 15#'s of drag using the thinner carbontex drag washer under the gear. by substituting the thicker penn ht-100 #6-113h, i was able to get 20#'s or better. so that's what i do now. it's no big deal for me, but might prove an inconvenience for you. this is not a consistent problem, so go with the stock carbontex drag washers first, check the drags, and then consider changing the washer under the gear if there is an issue.
ok, now were ready! slap on a coat of cal's drag grease and install the washers. the excess will squeeze out the sides.
install the drive gear (key #292).
install the carbontex drag washers and metal washers in the order shown above. apply a generous coat of cal's drag grease to each carbontex drag washer.
install a new roller clutch inner tube (key #494). a light coat of grease from your fingers is sufficient.
now we will need to press out the old roller clutch bearing (key #493). sometimes it will press out easily by hand. if not, a pair of sockets, 10mm and 22mm will be very helpful. remove the drive shaft bearing (key # 486) first.
place the 22mm socked under the side plate for support. use the 10mm socked to press out the roller clutch bearing.
thumb pressure should be enough to press in the new clutch bearing.
a light coat of corrosion x is probably the best compromise for lubricating the clutch bearing. it's difficult because a dry roller bearing will hold better, but rusts too easily. a heavily greased roller bearing will definitely not rust, but it may also not hold. accurate uses corrosion x. i think this gives you the best results as well.
install the right side plate (key #932).
install the right side plate screws (key #'s 764, 765 and 766).
pack the drive shaft bearing (key #486) with grease and install it.
install the bearing seal (key #270), the bearing thrust washer (key #269), the drag spring washer 9H (key #268), the drag spring washer 9L (key #267), and star drag washer (key #266).
install the click spring (key #296) and click pin (key #295).
to get the star (key #265) back on, there are two techniques. one is to use a toothpick. simply push the click pin (key #295) down, shove a toothpick into the hole in the drive shaft (key #930), and turn the star (key #265) down over the drive shaft.
what i do is push the click pin (key #295) down with a small blade.
now slide the drag star washer (key #266) over the click pin (key #295) so that it stays put. a small bead of grease is helpful here.
install the star (key #265).
install the drive shaft shield (key #264).
now for the handle. a full handle assembly is made up of three parts; the arm, the grip and the spindle in the middle. i had an extra grip and spindle assembly made made by a local machine shop. first, drill out the back of the original spindle, punch it out, and bolt on the new grip and spindle.
add a light coat of grease to the handle arm. install the handle (key #495) and handle nut (key #262).
install the handle nut plate (key #261) and screw (key #128).
done!
now, for a few comments. this is another excellent example of greased carbon fiber drag washers actually extending the functional drag range of a reel. dartanium drag washer system has been noted to become sticky over time, and/or at higher drag ranges. the stock drags in our reel were already starting to stick. carbontex with cal's grease will stay smooth forever, and at much higher drag settings. shimano recently offered and thicker drag pressure plate, a wider side plate and longer drive shaft upgrade for the trinidad because of drag problems with this reel. it is my opinion that none of this would have been necessary if they would have upgraded the reel to greased carbon fiber.
i estimate that the drag system will now deliver an easy 25 pounds of drag. what i noted was that the handle started backing up a little at 22 pounds. this is the anti-reverse roller clutch bearing (key #493) that is starting to slip. what keeps the handle from moving backwards any further is the anti-reverse pawl (key #303). if both of these anti-reverse mechanisms fail sequentially, the handle will go knucklebuster on you. and it has.
this combination anti-reverse system, gentlemen, is what i believe to be the achilles heel of the shimano trinidad, the shimano torium, the daiwa saltia and the daiwa saltist. please note that the trinidad 30 is rated on the shimano website for 350 yards of straight 30# mono and a maximum drag of 16.5 pounds. there is no mention of spectra anywhere, and probably for good reason. the anti-reverse system appears to limit the functional drag that this side plate can deliver. the trinidad "30" was apparently designed for straight 30 pound monofilament. perhaps this is simply a case of too much spool and not enough side plate for spectra.
now, a discussion of problems is pointless without a discussion of possible solutions. to beef up the drag system, i see three possible solutions. first, the anti-reverse pawl could be spring loaded. the pawl would now click, just like a penn senator. second, a second anti-reverse pawl could be added. there is actually room on the opposide side of the ratched gear. the yoke plate (key #302) could be cut at the blue line to make room for the second pawl.
and finally, a second anti-reverse roller clutch bearing (key #493) could be added. simply stack one roller bearing on top of the other. this is the anti-reverse system that is used in the accurate boss series of reels. it would require a modification to the side plate, or a new side plate. it would also require a longer roller bearing tube and longer drive shaft. personally, i think a double roller bearing system would be the best option.
Alan Tani
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Reproduced with the kind permission of Alan Tani
ahhh, daiwa......
it seems like the argument is always penn versus shimano. daiwa makes a great line of reels. i think the saltiga is perhaps one of the finest small baitcasters made. first, pull the schematics.
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/displayimage.php?album=24&pos=699
here is my personal favorite. it's the 30T. well balanced, very powerful, it's small size makes casting a small sardine a piece of cake. i borrowed one of these on my one an only 10 day trips a couple of years ago and absolutely fell in love with the reel. everything about this reel says quality!
um, but this one had a small oops! a friend of mine had this loaded with spectra and was fishing for salmon dragging a 2.5 pound lead ball on a sinker release. he heard a pop, saw the spool displaced laterally and retired the reel for the day. then he brought it to me.
first, let's pull all of the left side plate screws (key #21) and remove the left side plate assembly (key #6).
the spool (ouch!) comes out cleanly, leaving you with three pieces.
the right spool bearing (key #3) needs to be cleaned first, so let's remove the rubber water shield (key #4), pull out the bearing, remove the bearing shields, clean the bearing and lube it up. for a full discussion on bearings, do a search under key word "bearings" and author name "alantani".
the left side plate bearing (key #10) is buried pretty deep. i decided just to lube it up without pulling the shields. it should be fine.
ok, back together it goes. don't forget to add a bead of grease to all the screw holes. now, if all you want to do is lube, clean or replace the bearings, then this is as far as you need to go.
want to replace the drag washers? ok, onward! remove the handle nut screw (key #68), the handle nut (key #67) and the handle assembly (key #'s 61-66).
remove the star drag (key #59) and spacing sleeve B (key #60), the click spring assembly (key #'s 57 and 58), the two drag spring washers (key #56) and bearing washer D (key #55).
ok, the handle and star are off. now for the right side plate. remove all of the right side plate screws (key #53).
wiggle the right side plate assembly (key #41, et.al.) and it should come straight up and off.
here's a little trick. the metal drag washers are often a little tough to remove. when you bolt down the handle nut, the spacing sleeve B (key #60) presses down on the shoulder of the drive shaft (key#24). the shoulder is slightly deformed. a couple of gentle strokes of a flat file will remove this "burr" and the gear and drag stack will come off easily. easy, not too much.
the gear cluster now comes off easily, revealing a carbon fiber drag washer installed several years ago by your's truly. we're going to remove these old penn drag washers, clean up all the metal washers and install a new set of carbontex drag washers.
not really much to this reel. it's actually very simple.
now for a new set of carbontex drag washers.
i'm going to slap a nice, thick juicy coat of drag grease on these washers because i know that really annoys those people that still do not belive in drag grease!
and then the drag stack goes back together. remember to alternate the metal washers; keyed, eared, keyed, eared, keyed. also add bearing washer D (key #55) and then spacing sleeve A (key #40). bearing washer D goes under the spacing sleeve. this is contrary to the schematics but it makes the installation easier.
i've got a ratty old toothbrush that i'm going to use to brush a light coat of grease all through the inside of the side plate. take a moment to squirt a little corrosion x into the right side plate bearing (key #43) as well.
the drive shaft bearing (key #54) is particularly at risk for corrosion. pop out the bearing, remove the shields, pack the bearing with grease, replace the bearing and install it back into the side plate.
add a bead of grease to all the screw holes.
if you did not monkey with the clutch lever (key #48) or the yoke plate (key #28), the right side plate should snap right back into place.
install bearing washer D (key #55), a pair of drag spring washers (key # 56) cupped "( )", and the click leaf spring assembly (key #'s 57 and 58).
grease up the drive shaft (key #24). grease all the little crevasses on the star (key #59) and install it.
grease spacing sleeve B (key #60) and install it.
add a little grease to the handle arm (key #61) around the drive shaft, install the handle nut (key #67) and screw (key #68).
done! now we just have to see if daiwa will send us a new spool. this old spool never should have failed and i'm hoping daiwa will extent the warranty and send us a new one for free!
Alan Tani
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Top report, Tight Lines.
I agree with you about Aussie Salmon... out of the smoker they're absolutely delicious
Congrats on your PBs both at Avoca and the others you've been getting recently. Keep posting... they're great to read.
Cheers, Slinky
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If you can get one, it will be from the distributors. Send an e-mail to Pure Fishing... info@purefishing.com.au
They are incredibly helpful and have an excellent service and parts department. Being an older model, I'm not sure of availablity... some brands, like ABU or PENN have parts available for reels that are 30 years old... others discontinue parts waaaay too regularly.
If the part is available, they're the best ones to sort you out. If they can't get them you can try Mike's Reel Repair in Canada. They're the guys who have schematics on line (although they don't have the catera). I checked their parts list and they do have it listed BUT getting parts from them can take months and months. Have a look here
By the way, if possible don't just get a drive gear... if ever you have to replace the drive or pinion gear in a reel you should do both together so you get a matched set and because when one of them is damaged, it will almost certainly have damaged the other.
Cheers, Slinky
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FlyFanatic. Good to see another obsessed fishing tragic on the site...
Kings can be caught all year round in Sydney but in winter they are far fewer although when you find them, generally bigger. The water in middle harbour is usually a couple of degrees warmer so might be a good place to start but it will be hit an miss. Find the bait schools and concentrate there.
Cheers, Slinky
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(Not sure what happened to the pictures here....)
G'day FlyFanatic,
I had the same thing happen the first time I tried to post pics... I use a Mac and had exported my pics from iPhoto as jpegs and something about it meant that they posted like yours. By simply exporting them in 'original' format, the problem was solved (even though the original format also exports as a jpeg??? Go figure!)
Don't know if this helps.
Cheers, Slinky
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Welcome to Fishraider, Mack Attack 79
You'll get lots of good information from a heap of very experienced fishos on the forums. Looking forward to reading about some of your fishy adventures.
Cheers, Slinky
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Great condition on those Winter Breambos boys. Looks like a top day even if it was freezing cold.
How do you rate those ghost blades against their full metal blades, Swordy? As always I was wondering whether I 'had to' have some in my tackle box... in the back of my mind was that they looked great for when the fish were a bit shy and something a bit more subtle was on the cards??
Cheers, Slinky
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Also Tony what do you think of this particular knot and also the easiness of tying it..
Cheers
jewgaffer
G'day Byron, Not speaking French I have no idea of the translation but it's a variation of the Slim Beauty knot.
One of my favourite knotsBUT
No good for heavy leader... in heavy line the overhand knot is too bulky to go through some runners and sounds like a machine gun if you cast it.
Cheers, Slinky
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Thought I'd try an explanation of what I meant in the last reply.
Here's 2 knots... both tied in 20lb braid with 40lb leader.
Tony Jones Leader Knot (sometimes called a Duck Nose)
Slim Beauty
If you look really closely (click on the pic so it expands) you might see that on the left end of the Tony Jones knot where the mono wraps end, the braid crosses over the mono. Imagine when you have a fish on... the natural tendency is for the knot to pull tighter and that means that point will be under pressure, with the braid pressing on and potentially cutting into the leader.
In the Slim Beauty, at no point does a strand of braid cross the leader in a way that will be under pressure later. Effectively you have 2 knots sliding together, like when you tie a double uni knot. The 2 knots press against each other instead of a strand of braid and leader pressing on each other.
No idea if I've made it clearer or just bamboozled everyone but here's hoping.
Cheers, Slinky
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Thanks for the info guys.
I think I will go heavier on the leader as I wasn't aware that the braid can cut through it.
You are on the money Mazza. I will be chasing jewies with the outfit. Only hope I can land the monster on this light gear.
G'day twoblues,
Avoiding having your braid cut through your leader is more about knot selection. You should pick leader to suit the fish you're chasing and the kind of fishing you're doing... there's no point trying to cast 2" plastics at bream with 30lb leader.
Use knots to connect your leader if you can, that don't involve single strands of braid crossing over the leader inside the knot. When the knot is under pressure, the fine braid can cut through the leader. Knots like a slim beauty or double uni-knot are really good.
In lighter tackle (bream and flathead style outfits for example) it's not such an issue because there's less pressure on the line so less likelihood of the braid cutting thru the leader. For this sort of gear, a knot that is simple and quick to tie is fine... ... a Surgeons Knot is very popular.
I use a modified surgeons knot for light gear (10lb leader and less) and a slim beauty for mid weight gear (15-40lb leader) and a 'mid knot' for heavier leaders.
Cheers, Slinky
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When squid start eating warm-blooded fish or prawns I'll start paying $30 for those jigs
Cheers, Slinky
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There's some good sized inkers in that lot. Top stuff for Kingies but even better for Fishraiders.
Cheers, Slinky
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Just goes to show that it can always get worse. Poor bloke... I bet he was late home for dinner.
Slinky -
Sound's like an enjoyable session, Prawn Star. You don't want to be falling in the drink at this time of year without an ice-survival kit
A few nice fish and good company is a great way to spend time
Cheers, Slinky
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Happy birthday fellas. Hope you both have a fantastic day and get plenty of what you want
:1happybday: Cheers, Slinky
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Congrats on the PB Bream, Johnno. Top quality fish
Cheers, Slinky
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G'day Mick. There are a couple of things that might be causing the problem.
Before you give up on braid, it might be because your spool is over-full. Make sure you've got at least 2-3mm clearance from the top of the spool and if not maybe strip a bit of line off. The knots are caused by loose loops of line coming off the spool and it's more likely when the spool is too full.
Also, try winding the line back on under a little pressure periodically just holding it between your fingers after your cast. If it's only happening once an outing, maybe do it once every half hour. Loosly wrapped braid is also often the culprit.
Good luck. Slinky
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Well done Bunney!!
I've only hooked one on fly once... while trying to catch Luderick on a 7wt... it was a big one and cost me a fly line when it went straight back to the reef and shredded about 10' of a Cortland 444.
Cheers, Slinky
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did you measure the drag before and after the new washers.
G'day wwt,
The washer under the drive gear:
20.75 x 28.75 x 1mm (i.d. x o.d. x thickness)
bottom washer in drive gear:
12.5 x 27 x 0.5mm
other 2 washers in stack
9.4 x 27 x 0.5mm
... preferred bushes rather than bearings
peter
A lot of people overlook bushings but the metal ones in basic C series ABUs are bulletproof. For anyone fishing out of yaks in particular, an all bushing reel is a good idea. And much less temperamental on the beach too.
Cheers, Slinky
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Nice work, Aladin. That's a very tasty feed and a whole lot of fun to catch
Cheers, Slinky
FlyFanatic. Good to see another obsessed fishing tragic on the site... 
:1happybday: 
At Last A Kingie
in Fishing Reports
Posted
Good on you, Martin. Congrats on your first Kingfish but don't give up on those Snapper either. Greg is THE man for Snapper around Sydney so it won't be long before we see pics of you with a lumpy headed red. Glad you're discovering some of the great fishing we're blessed with.
Cheers, Slinky