Geoff

I visited the club a few months after BAFA closed , about a year or so back & spoke with the guys setting up the new club , Muddy Creek boating & fishing. This may be of interest, http://www.lpma.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0005/148514/Muddy_Creek_Plan_of_Management.pdf The charges for joining, ramp fees etc I thought were excessive but that may have changed. In respect to contact , there was a sign on the ramp gates with the information but may have changed & Muddy creek club may be no more due to develoment. Geoff

"Can I screw it under the dash which is aluminum." Yes. The screws used to secure the fitting are insulated via the mounting block so no problem. Just on the fitting , there are single pole blocks available which would do the job. I'm not sure if the two poles shown in the photo are actualy connected. If not , you can only use one pole but my preference would be to run the neg from the battery to one pole then make up a small loop to the second pole then fit all your neg wires to the that pole Geoff

This is what you need , The earth (negative) wire from the battery goes to one terminal & all the others to the other terminal , or if you wish all to the same terminal. Geoff

I'm getting confused here , initally the comment was , Launched the boat at Botany ramp, boat will not start not even a crank. The black safety fitting under the key , if not fitted , will still allow the motor to crank but will prevent it from actually starting. Thirstycamel , perhaps you could clarify Geoff ..

You say "it will not crank". Is it possible to place a rope around the flywheel , ie , like a pull start to check if the motor will turn over there by checking it is not seised , or , just turning the flywheel by hand , perhaps with the plugs out. Other than that , at the risk of stating the obvious try a different battery. Sometimes batteries just fail for no aparent reason . Geoff

Contact a Yammie dealer near you location , they should be able to assist or at least , point you in the right direction. Geoff

Courious to know why you want a window in front of the tank. Geoff

Roylo . Yes , it's the pressure type. Whilst this is not my preffered type of fitting & your recomodation is both logical & very sound the lights up until now have worked with no problem for 10 years even though they are submerged each time I launch & retreive . I cleaned them up , applied silicon along with a generous amount of Inox so hopefully they are sealed for a reasonable period of time . If I get a reoccurance in the near future I will either follow your suggestion or take up Road Runner suggestion of replacing the whole system. Geoff T

Thanks to all for taking the time to reply & your constructive comments. After nearly 3 bays of testing & fiddling about the problem has been fixed but with some interesting side issues. When I removed the light assemblies from the trailer I found both sides had corrusion where the wiring connected to the lights. The right hand side was the worst of the two. I cleaned the wireing & connections & using a 12V spare battery connected the earth then attached the positive to each of the 4 plug pins. All lights worked correctly. Then came the side issues. Connected the plug to the car socket & the trailer lights played up again so I thought there may be a problem in the 900mm wireing harness from the car to the plug. Spent ages testing the cable every thing checked out OK . I then thought if there was a short or two wires touching then this should reflect in the car lights but all the car lights worked correctly. Also , I had used my box trailer on the weekend & all the lights were OK. So , where is the problem ?? Went to start the car . With all the testing the battery had insufficent power to start the motor. Hooked up the battery charger for a few hours then started the car. With the battey charged & the alternator providing the correct power , the trailer lights worked correctly. In 40 odd years of playing with boats & cars , I had never come across this situation. For interest the car is a VY Holden sedan. Perhaps others who have a trailer light problem may find this thread of interest. Geoff. PS Ian , will keep ypu in mind if I have further problems.

Yes , that was part of the problem but a new plug fixed that aspect. I thought the earth was the problem but with further testing today using a combination of hot wireing & connection via the plug , it appears the the brown (tail light) is the problem. Indicators & stop are now working OK provided the brown in not connected. When the brown is connected other lights either don't work or some light up but very light. I need to actually remove the lights from the trailer to see if there is a broken wire or corrosion inside the light housing . Crossfire 63. "10/1 your trailer has been wired with copper wire. Chances are the wires are corroded in the harness somwhere." The same thought crossed my mind & unless I can fix the brown then this may be my only other option. Geoff

My trailer is now 10 years old & up until recently the lights worked fine. Last week I discovered only one tail light was working. Yesterday I decided to fix the problem , thinking it was only going to take a short time , however after spending most of the day going through just about every test I could think of , no sucess. The question is , what am I missing ??? To eliminate the obvious here are the tests I did using a multimeter. Car socket , it's a 7 pin socket but ony use 5 being the stop , tail , 2 indicators & the earth. Voltage on the 4 active all checked out OK. Trailer plug. There was some corrosion on the terminals . Cleand it up , cut the wires back to clean wire & reinserted. Test show the was a voltage drop up to 50% on some terminals. Decided not to mess around with it any further so purchases a new plug. Voltage problem at the plug fixed. I then hot wired the lights & all OK , no blown globes & no corrosion on any of the wires or fittings , they look like brand new. So , at this point I've got power to the plug & the lights work when hot wired. I then decided to test each wire both when all were wired to the plug & one at a time removing the three active wires. No sucess !!!! The appears to be no damage to the cable at the front of the trailer but I need to check that out a bit further. I'me going to check it out a further today but if I can't find a solution then may need to rewire the whole trailer , a job I'm not looking forward to. Any thoughts or advice appreicated Geoff

I was refering to outside however a few posts here refer to inside. Geoff

Is the reason for considering checker plate , weight , cost or durability. Unless you have the cutting gear , aluminium is a lot harder to work with than ply. Also , as Cluster 13 mentioned , aluminium is not good on hot days unless it is covered with carpet or rubber matting. Which is heavier , it's hard to say but a few extra kg's either way is not going to make any noticable difference to performance. Geoff

Produce stores normally sell both rabbit & chicken pellets at very cheap prices when compared to tackle stores. Not aware where you live but I know the produce store at Clempton Park have pellets. Geoff

Fished Bate Bay & a few places South. All the signs were good , 1mt Swell , 0-5knot wind, 22.5 degrees water temp , rising tide , overcast sky, Barometer 1024. We were keen to get bait into the water but that is where the good news finishes. No fish on the bite!!!!! Over several hours fishing from close in reefs out to around 40mt caught a Rass , Sweep , Sargent Baker & a small Reddie & 3 , 6" flatties All were returned. The only bit of excitement occurred off Shark Island when a timid school of Yakka appeared. We managed to catch 6. Back at the ramp , spoke with a few guys & with the exception of one guy who caught a keeper Reddie , the story was the same , no fish & from the comments , this has been occurring for some time !!. I guess there are good days & bad days & this was defiantly a bad day fish wise. Will be fishing Bermagui at Easter , hopefully the fish will be a bit more cooperative in April. Geoff

Check the oil leval in the gearbox. Is it black? If so change the oil. If it's the normal light brown colour then the oil comming from the prop is not from the gear box. Is it low or full. If low , change the seal, if full then it's just oil residue comming from the motor nothing to worry about. Geoff

Steel wool soap pads or Gumption cleaner , both or either are available from most supermarketes. After cleaning give the tank a good wash out. On the next outing , turn the pump on when leaving the ramp this will ensure a good wash out prior to the livies arriving. Geoff

There are quite a few companies that supply air brakes but , perhaps you have found these are fitted to trucks & , or their trailers. Ring a few suppliers & see if they know of any one fitting air brakes to boat trailers. I suspect they are not suitable to boat trailers due to the exposure of salt water to the components. I had a look at electric brakes which are frequently fitted to caravans but it appears these only come in drum brakes which become totally useless when exposed to salt water on a boat trailer. Geoff

Generally speaking , your correct. Having extra space between the overflow & the top of the tank just provides a bit of safety margin but does not fix the problem. Smaller pump , inline tap or large outlet . preferably the latter is the correct set up. Geoff

There are two main problems with outlets. 1. As Paikea said , the outlet is too small to remove the water using just gravity. 2. The outlet is too high In your case , if the size or height cannot be changed then install a smaller pump or fit a tap on the in pipe to control the water flow. Geoff

The LBT came with the boat. It was fabricated & fitted by the boat manufacture , ie not an of the shelf product. If your looking for an off the shelf tank there are heaps to see when surfing the web The size is a lot larger than the photo suggests , Length 450mm Width 280mm Depth 300mm If filled to the top , the tank holds approx 37lt (8 galloms) of water. The orange pipe is approx 200mm which I find is sufficent to keep 6 - 8 yakkers & perhaps the occusional slimy alive via a 360 Rule pump. If it's the overflow / outlet your interested in , it's a basic skin fitting with a piece of electrical condute. This can be fitted to any tank provided there is space under the tank. Here is a photo of the underside of the tank , the outlet is the short black hose on the left. Geoff

Fisher Jay I think a 90 would do the trick but keep your eye on the weight. Your current 70 2 S weighs 106kg,other Yammie motors weigh, 90 2S 121kg 115 2S 165kg 100 4S 170kg 115 4S 189kg If you go 4S , it's getting close to having a person standing down the back with your current 70 2S How would the boat sit in that situation? Geoff

An additional point. The interest charges will drop signifitly so , as you will most only have the money for a short period maintain your current payments or more if possible. This will reduce your principle at quite a rapid rate so when the money is withdrawn your principal will be a lot less than if the $500k had not been deposited. Geoff

Agree. Visit your bank a talk to one of their advisors , they will virtually trip over them selves to get you to deposit the money into a an account. Most banks have a variety of options , it's a matter of picking one that off sets your loan account but also pays interest. Having said that , I think you will find the bank will deposit the money against you loan account which will reduce your monthly interest charge considerably. However , confirm that you can withdraw all or part of the money sometime in the future & that it is not locked away for ever. Also , unless you have a firm period avoid term deposits. If you need to withdraw the money prior to the end of the term the interest rate can drop from the agreed % to a much lesser amount. Geoff

Here is a post from several years ago. This guy tends to be a popular choice, *********************************************************************************** I smashed the screen on the pogoboat last year and someone on this site reccomended Australian Boat Screens 19 Prince William Drv Seven Hills 2147 (02) 9624 3737 His workshop is just off the end of the M2 He did a great job, My screen is a centre console screen in perspex, about 900 high by about 1000 wide and flat across the front but curved back around the console frame rails He charged me 300 from memory and had the job done in a couple of days Regards Pogo *********************************************************************************** Also , google "boat wind screens" There are a few others around the Western suburbs. You mentioned a LBT in your origional post. There are lots of options depending on the rear area of you boat so some pic's would be helpfull Geoff