Geoff

By all means check the manual but from memory the job is quite simple. Remove the in & out fuel lines , undo the bolts holding the pump onto the motor & remove the pump. I think there is only 2 parts, the diaphram & a small spring. Just be carefull when removing the diaphram as the spring may go flying off & lost. Geoff

The mechanical fuel pump , also on the Port side , is opperated by that piston. Inside the pump is a rubber diaphram which moves in & out as the piston moves. Over time hair line cracks appear in the diaphram which allows fuel to be pumped directly into the cylinder thereby causing flooding , plug fouling which inturn drops you down to 3 cylinders & rough running. To check this , remove the fuel pump then diaphram. This is not a difficult job. Hold the diaphram up to the light & if there are cracks light comes through. Replace the diaphram & you rough problem will be fixed. Geoff

Which plug was it ,the lower plug on the port side bank ? If so , there is a specific reason but will wait for your reply before I throw another possible aspect into the mix Geoff

Thanks Grant , I just found that post. It answers all the questions I asked so we can move on. Also memories of my friend Jewgaffer (Byron), what a great loss of a talented Jew fish'o Geoff

I've just had a look on the web. OMG !!! I can see what you mean about big $$$. The prices for something Yamaha produce in the hundreds or perhaps thousands for most likely a few $$$ each are out rageous.. Whilst nice to have , the price V's the benifit is just not justified , especially if your considering an up grade. Cross that off the "to do" list. Geoff

I've just had a look on the Yammie web site & the photo of the current motor is the same as yours so the age appears correct , the mystery is why it has no auto oil injection. The limited gauges may have been a cost issue with the origional purchase but today they are standard equipment. If you decide to spend some $$$ to up grade here is what you get, digitial gauges containing , Taco (RPM) , water temp alarm , low oil alarm (not applicable with premix) , speed (option for MPH / KPH / Knots)i , battery voltage , low battery alarm , total hours , trim , trip meter , time , fuel leval. So , perhaps a bit more to consider after you address your immediate problem & the boat goes in for the water pump change Geoff

I'm considering doing a few sessions targeting Jew's , initially off the beach then perhaps from a boat. In looking around the web there are a variety of suggestions & theories but thought I would ask the question & perhaps try to summerise to information. From what I'm reading there appears to be 8 main aspects, Time of the day , morning , evening etc Best month ? Best moon ? Preffered tide Baramoter Bait Weather conditions Common habitat or locations I'm familiar with the normal rig so no need to br included at this time Would appreiciate comments , the ideal or best experience / results members have had on each of these aspects. Thanks Geoff

Interesting , Are you sure it's a 2002 model. My 70 2S is a 2003 model, has the automatic oil injection & a full set of gauges which tell everything one needs to know , eg temp , oil, speed , battery voltage , hours , trim & a few other items. Can not quite understand a model one year earlier is so different Are you still planning to take the boat to Blacktown?? If so suggest you ask about installing a full set (2) of Yamaha multi functional gauges . In respect to the temp problem determing the water flow when on the ear muffs can give you a faulse result. The only way to obtain an indication of the flow from the tell tail is when the motor is in the warter. Geoff

Out of interest , how old is the motor. Is there an hour meter? , if so how mony hours on the clock Geoff

OK , a light sand , smooth out the rough edges, a coat of Penetrol which will both seal & give a strong base coat then give it a spray. Have a scroll through this site http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/paint_additives/penetrol.php Geoff

Why do you want to remove the paint , do as Juggs suggested , just sand it back & paint. If you want to apply an undercoat suggest Penetrol. It provides both corrusion protection & a good base for the top coat. However , in this weather it may take two or three days to properly dry. Geoff

I dought the difference in batteries is the problem. It's more the voltage in each battery that is important. I found with mine , once the voltage gets down around 12V or below starting can be more difficult which , in essence , this goes with out saying however , I've not experienced the power loss you have experienced. Geoff

Interesting problem , other than dicussing with the service with the guys , perhaps a process of elimation, Have you checked all the power connections , battery , motor ,power switch for any corrusion , loose connections clean connections etc. As for the switch suggest an internal inspection , sounds like something is loose or the contacts need cleaning. If unable to acess the internals , perhaps disconnect , by pass the switch & see if the problem reoccurs. Geoff

Just for interest , here is a photo of the origional ramp. Note , no sand on the ramp & the low leval of sand between the ramp & the groin compared to the photo in my origional post. The construction company have created the sand problem by dumping (pilling up) the exuvated sand next to the ramp.& as such with the tidal flow keeps pushing the sand onto the ramp. Extending the length of the large groin will not fix the problem Fixing the sand aspect will not improve the depth issue but will ,at least , will provide 2 lanes sand free Geoff

A 10lb sand anchor is more than enough for your boat & perhaps a mt or so of chain. Remember , you have to pull the thing up. 13Lb + chain , especially in deep water will certinally put your fitness to the test. Retreiving a prong anchor from a reef can be a challange thats one of the maim reasons I use a 1/4" (6mm) anchor . I slowly drive forward retreiving the slack rope. When it's vertical . tie the rope via the bow spit to the bollard & apply a few more rev's. The prong will straighten & release. If you choose to use one with a thicker prong then the above can become very difficult , on occusions dangerous and , or snapping the rope thereby loosing the lot. There are other methods , one is "snapping" the anchor off the bottom either directly or via an anchor retreival bouy. These methods are not for the faint hearted or the inexperienced & can very easily end in tears. But that a story for another day. At this time , start with the 1/4" + a mt or so of chain. I'm sure , on most occusions this will be more than sufficent. Geoff

It may be a general rule but your correct about the overkill. For 5.2mt that equates to 17lb. According to the Bias book 16lb is for 8-9mt boats. 10lb is the recomended sand anchor for 5-7mt boats Geoff

I have a 4.9mt boat & have several anchors. I use the one suitable for the location & conditions on the day. Generally speaking , you will need two , one with the 4 prongs for reef & plough type for sand. As for weight , the recomendition from Maritime is reasonablly heavy with chain equal to the length of the boat . In theory , this is correct as they are considering the need to use the anchor in bad or heavy conditions , the chain acts a shock absorber when fishing in a big swell , ie as the boat moves up & down the anchor is not disturbed , however , most people only fish in either enclosed waters or close off shore on good days. In other words , "it's horses for courses" For reef, on reasonably calm days I use a 1/4" (6mm) 4 prong & very rarely have a problem holding bottom. They are easy to release & not heavy to pull up. I do have a heavier anchor either 8 or 10mm prongs which came with the boat & has never been used. I also have a light & a heavier sand anchor. I've found the heavier anchor is better. The 10lb will be OK for your boat. For chain , I only use one meter on the reef anchor to provide some protection against rope abrasion on the rocks & none on the sand , never had a problem. Geoff

The ramp is a great improvement on the previous facility but unfortunatly the Greens got involved claiming seagrass is required for breeding hence the short ramp. This is how stupid they are , no fish in it's right mind would breed there with all the outboard & boating activity going on also , there are hundreds of sq mt of seagrass West of the ramp. Six or eight additional sq mt at the end of the ramp would not make any difference to breeding. But the issue goes further as shown in this photo which was taken at low tide, The end of the ramp does not blend into the sand but has about a 6" drop off & at low tide when the trailer drops onto the sand any reasonable boat needs a decent 4WD to pull it out. This photo shows a trailer off the ramp which was the only way they could retreive the boat. But the issue goes further , extending the large groin on the Eastern side will do bugger all to fix the sand problem The sand between the groin & the small rock wall needs to be exuvated & moved to another location , also , the rock wall needs to be extended to prevent further migration. No rocket science , just common sence but your dealing with Councils who , in this case are totally hopeless. On the occusions I use this ramp I do so on days when it high tide around midday or early PM , retreival with a 2WD car is quite easy. Geoff

Any idea how much it is to replace a water pump? I had the pump done on my Yammie 70 2S with my 200hour service ,I suspect your pump is the same ,it cost around $50.00 for parts + labour , say 1 hour at $80.00 / hour. Depending on where you go , should see change out of $150. Ring a round for a quote Geoff

What rev's were you running when trolling. Is it possible one or more of the plugs oiled up therefore not firing causing the motor to shake however some motors have have a device that either reduces the revs or one of cylinders if over heating occurs. It's there to protect the motor but still give some driving ability. In respect to the overheating , perhaps the water pump is on it's last legs & with the slow rev's /speed over the 30 min period insuficent water was going through the system. Geoff

Dave . Just had a look in the Bias catelog , I see what you mean in the wide range of prices. There must be a reason & I think the only way to determin which is the best for your requirment & value for money is to visit a store & check out the range. You may also like to contact Gary "brickman". He may have or , be able to make , something suitable. Geoff

Nickmenai... Gazza makes some good points regarding tide & wind. Don't dismiss the comments I made earlier , it's a matter of making a choice on the day , run out tide & or no wind of concern then use what I suggested. Run in tide or Southerly wind then the beach is the best option. Geoff

"I've pushed the boat off the trailer with a long bow line attached to bow and stern (mines 20m long, you can never have too much) and guided it to the pontoon, tied up and parked up." I do mine basically the same. I only use the the right hand side of the ramp , ie the one closest to the pontoon walkway. I have a rope connected to the stern then connect the other end to the walkway railing , as close as possible to the pontoon. Walk back to the trailer , push the boat off then park the car. Disconnect the rope fron the rail & pull it into the pontoon. This works well except if there is a strong Southerly blowing which pushes the boat against the walkway but that is not a problem as I don't go fishing when in those sort of conditions. Geoff

Thanks , I will keep that in mind. This may be a dumb question but most of the reels have several white fiber type discs between the metal washers. I've dismantled the drags & all the white discs are dry. Is this the way they a supposed to be or should they have a slight smeer of greese applied? I suspect not but thought I would ask the question. Geoff

Just spinning reels at presant , mainly Okuma & Shimino with a few cheapies in the mix. The drags are easy on these. I have a few overheads , a bit nervous about pulling these apart so saving that fof another day Geoff