Geoff

Further to Bob's post I thought it best to add a new post for members to see rather than having it missed in the previous post. I have today rec my boat licence renewal due on 2/1/15 There was no mention or reference to combining this with my car licence. . I rang RMS to be advised I need to go to the RMS office so they can combine the two. In essence this means cancelling my existing car licence which is only 6 months old & be issued with a new combined licence which includes the normal photo. For the purpose of this post I am assuming most members have a 5 year gold licence which cost around $450 The cost for a 5 year boat licence is $476.00. ( 1 yr , $114 , 3 yr , $304) Now , I understand RMS will credit back the remaining amount on your drivers licence. To make the mathamatics simple , assume you have 50% (2.5years) remaining on your drivers licence so the new cost will be $476 & $225 = $701. The crunch is , for the sake of saving 1 piece of plastic a bill in 5 years of $926.00 based on todays rates. That is a fair amount $$$$ to be paying in one hit. For those like me who qualify for a concession the concession is 50% on my boat licence & 100% for my car licence. This works out at a total of $238 for a 5 year boat licence.or $152 for a 3 year. Personally , based on the above & for the sake of one less piece of plastic , I'm not going to bother Geoff

correct me if I'm wrong , but my understanding between Marine ply & waterproof ply is the quality of the surface timber used , ie , MP provides a better finish.. The glue used on both is the same. Unless the M.P.ply is to be used on exposed surfaces it's hard to justify the cost if being covered with carpet Whatever you choose , give the bottom & particually the edges a good coat of paint to provide added protection Geoff

Bob that sounds to be the most logical way , will be interested to see what happens when my boat licence is due in Jan . Geoff

OK , I was not sure so I put in 3 years. Will be interesting to see what happens in Jan when my boat licence is due for renewal Geoff

It will be interesting to see how they work the mechinics , eg , I have just renewed my drivers licence for 5 years , my boat licence expires in Jan 2015. If I recall correctly , the max period for a boat licence is 3 years Also , being a pensioner my drivers licence is free. I did not see any reference to this aspect & if my boat licence becomes free or I need to pay. I don't mind paying but they need to cover this point Geoff

Both Valvoline & Castrol have suitable oils . These are available from most large marine shops Geoff ,

Chocolate has covered the key points. Check the barr at low tide around midday up or early PM with the wind up. This will normally be when it is at it's worse. In respect to the motor , when I purchased my boat the guy tried to sell me a 60hp. In the river it was fine but I did not think it had the punch to stay on the back of a wave crossing a bar so I went for a 70hp. Glad I did as it was not long after when crossing a bar with 4 on board that extra 10hp made all the difference. Geoff

Will not the 3 leaf be more stiffer than the the 2 leaf?? Geoff

Could you just clarify , is it the boat that is bouncing on the trailer or the trailer bouncing causing the boat to bounce.?? Depending on your reply will help pin point the problem & solution Geoff

I'm not actually familiar with your unit , did it not come with an instruction manual , if not have a look through this , http://www.manualslib.com/manual/73493/Humminbird-757c.html#manual What type od GPS card does it have , the most common is Navionics Gold. If no card then it may not work. Cards cost around $400 Have you tried pressing the menue button , if so there should be an option to add "Wayward Points" It is not absolutly necessary to actually add the W.P . The screen should show your current position then just travel in a direction to the GPS coordants you wish to visit Geoff

Be aware , around Currarong & JB certin parts are Marine parks so Google MP & click onto JB marine park to see which are the restricted areas. At Currarong , there are two boat ramps , one in the creek , behind the caravan park but is ony usable / accebale from about 2 - 3 hours each side of high tide. The other is a few hundred meters on the north side of the small shopping area. Geoff

C.F rods are light but are very fragile & need to be handled with kid gloves when not in use or traveling. I had two , both of which I managed to brake. Threw then away & went back to the standard glass rob , never looked back & would never buy another CF rod Keep im mind , the fish have no idear if your using a hand line or the most expensive gear available. A CF rod will not catch more fish than a standard glass rod from a dept store. Save your money.

Are you land based or have a boat??

The thing about V nose punts , they are very stable which is good when kids are on board but they tend to be rather uncomfortable when heading into a chop.. If your only considering the river then I think you will be happy with the boat Geoff

Have you removed the prop & checked inside , there should be some sort of markings somewhere If no sucess , take the prop to a Honder dealer , they should be able to identify the inches & pitch then you can decide your next move Geoff

OK , that means the tell tail is after the water passes through the motor ( some are before). If it's only warm then it's not a temp or water flow problem. If pumping the primer bulb did not make any difference then I suspect it is electrical. Did you try running the motor in a tub of water to avoid launching the boat & to try & simulate the problem at home. Geoff

The neg from the battery (black wire) is connected to the neg of the lights via an isolated termanal . These wires must not come in contact with the hull. The positive from the battery is connected to the main or master contact point on the switch. The two positivies , are then connected via seperate fuses to the switch. Geoff

I've had both. The issue tends to be knowing when all the water has been removed rather than the lift height. If you have tiller stear it really does not matter as you will be able to see the outlet from the rear seat however , if you have a forward controlls then it is difficult to see the outlet if out the back. When traveling along & the noise of the outboard will be louder than the pump so you will not know when all the water has gone & the pump will be running dry. With forward controls , if it's out the side , you can see when the water stops , out the back you cannot. Mine are currently out the side , on a previous boat it was out the back . As I was unable to see the rear outlet I drilled a small hole , about 1mm on the top of the pipe which created a tell tail so I could see from the forward controls when the water was all gone. Geoff

It could be a few things so a process of elimation. I see you have had the impella replaced but is it pumping a good stream of water from the tell tail??. Is the water warm or cold when the problem occurs??. Have you checked the thermostat to see if is working properly or perhaps there is some rubbish that can be seen when the thermo is removed. Some motors have a control device that if the motor becomes hot it reduces the rev's so not to overheat. If your motor has one of these devices it may be faulty. Finally , when the motor begins to fade pump (squeese) the primer bulb. If no change then it's most likely a temp or electrical problem. Geoff

When I purchased my boat in 03 the dealer advised fitting a sensor was not practical due to the irregular shape of the tank. Being some what nieve on this aspect said , OK & for the past 11 years have been using a dip stick. Reading an artical a few weeks ago I thought maybe getting it to work was a good possibility. Searched the web for sensors , found 3 that had possibilties , selected a Wema SSL , purchased one with the appropiate length & proceded to install. Let me say at this point , installing is not a 5 min job. With out going into great detail at this time , for me , the tank needed to be removed , empty all the fuel , cut a 30mm hole , install the sensor , then wire it up to the Yammie gauge. Calibrating was then the challenge. The gauge has 8 bars. When the tank is empty or the fuel is low the bottom bar flashers. I needed to know how many lt was required to stop the flashing. I added fuel 1 lt at a time then checked the gauge. At 9 lt the flashing stoped so if the bar flashes that means I have 8lt or less in the tank. This is unlikely to occur as I rarely have less than half a tank at any one time. I then added 1 more lt to round it up to 10lt. From that point , I added fuel 5 lt at a time then checked the gauge noting down when the second bar & subsquent bars appeared until the tank was full. This is the result however , it is important to note , this is for my tank & as other boats have different size & shape tanks they will need to be seperatly calibrated. Boat Fuel Gauge Tank capisity , 65lt Avg. consumption , 1lt / mile Bars Liters 8 60/65 7 55 6 50 5 40 4 30 3 25 2 20 1 9 1 Bar flashing , less than 8lt Geoff

Thanks guy's. Enzed was on my list but will now add Pirtek if unable to purchase from Enzed. Plannig to go to Repco today to purchase some fuel hose. Will ask what they have in brass fittings, I may get lucky Geoff

I'm changing the fuel filter & the nut / tail fittings that came with the filter are not compatable with my current fuel hoses. Now , there are all sorts of options hear but what I would like to do is have fittings that are compatable , not fuel lines that are bodgied up. I would like to find a retail outlet , preferably around the Silverwater area that has a large range of nut/tail & , or inline reducers. I've checked the obvious places like Google , Whitworths , BCF , Supercheap & whilst they have some fittings not the one I'm looking for. Does any one know of a one stop shop for fuel products. Geoff

Bias used to sell two different types but they are now closed. Here is one of the units they used to sell , https://www.flow-rite.com/products/marine/34-fittings/ma-018 The other is called Qwik-Lok Strainer. Geoff

I'm not aware of a needle & seat adjustment , normally it's a float leval adjustment which controls the needle movement. If the float level is correct & it's still leaking fuel then the needle & seat either need cleaning or replacing. Geoff

I was out 2 weeks ago & the temp was 17.5 degrees. Will be heading out again tomorrow , also towards Marley. Launching at Grays point around 7.45am Normally don't troll but one of the guy's is keen so , perhaps on the way back after some bottom bashing. Geoff