Geoff

The design is one aspect , the depth of the trailer in the water can be equally important. To much & the boat will drift all over the place , too little places a lot of strain both on the boat & trailer. For interest , on my boat , the rear blue roller in the below photo needs to be just below the water Geoff

"When I tilted it it made a few cracking noises" Up untill now we have been assuming the shaft is stuck due to dried grease. From your comment & looking at the pic's I suggest the problem is that there is no lubricant inside the sleve which is causing it to stick. The thing is , to now get some lubricant inside the tube. I've not done this so not sure if it will work , but if you remove the nuts from each end where the tube passes through the motor hinge then slide out the tube / shaft , place it in a vertical position then apply over a day or so WD40 or Inox onto the shaft allowing the lubricant to run down & into the sleve . Perhaps this will be sufficent to get it moving. Applying some heat may also be benificial Geoff

"I just tried again to tilt the motor, shake it, I took the nut off the arm thingy and gave the end a tap with the hammer and it still won't budge." Firstly , let me say , replacing the whole unit is a last resort. What happened when you tilted the motor , something must have moved or twisted. Unless you have signs of rust the issue is the greese has gone hard. I mentioned previously , applying a small amount of heat , not enough to burn the paint om the motor bracket but enough to soften the grease should free it up. The other option is to remove the bolt connecting the motor arm to the shaft. Using a pair of stilsons or vice grips try to twist the shaft however , great care is needed not to burr the shaft. You might like to give Huey a call , I think he would see this problem quite frequently & would know the different options available prior to replacing the whole steering. Geoff

The main or perhaps the most common problem is that the greese between the shaft & sleve has gone hard.. Raise & lower the motor several times , this should twist the shaft sufficent for it to be extendard. As Dfishin said ," if you can start moving it by getting someone to push the motor while trying to turn the wheel the same way" If it becomes free , extend the tube as far as possible & remove all the old greese. Undo the large nut at the end of the sleve & slide the nut & O ring to the end of the shaft. Repeat cleaning the tube by winding it in then out each time washing with degreser , kero etc. until the tube comes out clean. Apply oil to the tube winding it in & out several times each time applying more oil. Once you satisfied that the tube is clean & well lubricated with oil turn the motor so the tube is fully contracted into the tube then replace the O ring & nut. If this fails then it's off to a marine dealer to either try & to loosen up the shaft with heat or a full replacement. What ever the outcome move the stearing every 3 - 4 weeks to prevent a reoccurance Geoff

The only others I can think of is Gumtree & Grays online but with all these , but , as your most likely aware , it is very much buyer beware & if your unable to check out the motor I would be leaning towards a marine dealer .

As Huey say's it's a matter of ringing around & being in the right place at the right time. Leave your name & phone No. & if any thing comes up they can give you a ring. Have you checked the auction sites , there may be something available but be very carefull as these motors do not come with any waranty. A good dealer with a good motor will offer at least 3 months waranty which if nothing else gives you peace of mind that your not buying a lemon. Geoff

Donna , John is correct , a screw driver with a locking device. Geoff

Agree , they can be quite friendly. Geoff

Stewy. As previously mentioned , have a word to Solas & also review the weight distribution. I agree with Huey , Permatrim are the best but also the most expensive. The SE sport 300 is a less expensive option. Geoff

16 new rules come into force from November. For salt water fish'os this is the main change. " Saltwater A daily bag limit of 10 for the following commonly caught species: Flathead (other than Dusky Flathead), Bream and Tarwhine, Tailor, Blue Swimmer Crab, Trevallies and Luderick. A total possession limit to remain at 20 for the above species. Currently , Daily bag limit of 20 , Possession limit of 20. Two crab traps and four witches hats/hoop/lift nets per person will be allowed. One crab trap and five witches hats/hoop/lift nets permitted." For the whole list , click onto this web site http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/fisheries/recreational/changes-to-recreational-fishing-rules-commencing-3-november-2014 Geoff

Sounds OK in theory but if you have a big pump , say 500 or 750gph & the std outlet then there is a good chance it will overflow. Don't discount this aspect. Geoff

Unfortunatly it's normally the way with creditors. I wonder if there is more to this than meets the eye. I go to Bias from time to time both during the week & on weekends. Normally there are several people in the shop & the cash register is ticking over frequently. So where is the money going???. Geoff

With these sorts of situations , it's generally a matter of trial & error checking the areas others have mentioned , LBT both inlet & outlet / drain , Bungs , motor mounting bolts etc . It's unlikely there is a split in the hull but needs to be checked as described previously. Check the areas under different conditions , when at rest , on the plane , LBT pump on & off. An initional check of the LBT can be done at home. Hook the hose up to the bracket pick up tube , hose on , pump on & see what happens. Once identified ,I think you will find it will be quite easy to fix. Geoff

Keep copper , brass & lead away from aluminium boats. There is a reaction between these metals which , in the case of lead will actually eat through the aluminium & create a hole. EG , sinkers under the floor Only use 316 stainless screw / fittings or aluminium. Needless to say any mild steel should never be used. Geoff

As Fab 1 says , " The key to prolonging the life of the boat/trailer stored outdoors in my opinion is, keeping the boat clean/maintained and parked on concrete.Only cover when boat is completely dry after washing, keep it off dirt/grass.Storing indoors is a clear winner if possible for security reasons." If covers are placed on the boat prior to it being completly dry then it is unlikely the boat will dry out & with the change in temp between night & day sweting can occur which can cause mould & moisture on the electrics which is not good. The swing away or removable draw bar should be considered so the boat can be stored under cover without the need of a tarp. A guy I knew some time ago cut a small slot down low in the middle of his garage door for the draw bar to protude. Something to thing about. Geoff

Is the boat fiberglass or Alum. I suspect glass , if so , the main area to check is along the keel & around the bung holes for softness in the transom frame.. Give the engine a good inspection , age , general condition , sevice history & perhaps a compression test. Geoff

Yes , i'm with the others , as for the problem it can be a matter of trial & error but in essence power going to the indicators is connecting across to the tail / stop lamps. In addition to the previous suggestions , check the actual wireing inside the lights & the trailer plug & socket as corrusion on the terminals can be part of the problem. As to the saging problem , I had a similar situation , the cause not noticable untill I discovered the spring had broken under the axle but was hidden by the fish plate. Geoff

I subscribe to the same mag , a good publication & each year , around this time, Sept / Oct they offer a reel & or a rod for $10 which covers handeling & freight. Over the years I've picked up about 6 or 7 reels or rods all good quality gear. I missed this one as I took out a 2 year subscription last year to pick up the the rod & reel combo. Also , tks for the info on the VBS system. Geoff

Bait casters require an overhead rod say around 6'6" with a pistal type grip suitable for flicking. It would be best to visit a large tackle store to check out the range. As for the line , I suggest a good quality mono in the 3 - 4kg range. The trick with baitcasters is to get the thumb action correct to prevent birds nest. This takes a fair amount of practice. Suggest a small sinker then go to an open area when no one else is around & practice. The spec says it has VBS cast control , whatever that means Geoff

C85 Thanks , I was interested to find out about charters out of Adelaide. How long to drive around the Whyalla , I was thinking about half a day. Geoff

Tks for the replies. Stash , I was aware of the Nov / Dec /closure period , but , If your not aware there are some areas that are closed through to the end of Jan. That not going to effect us as we would not be going during school holidays. Geoff Closure State-wide Snapper fishing closure from midday 1 November to midday 15 December for all fishing sectors. Snapper spatial spawning closures in five key breeding areas – four sites in Spencer Gulf and one site in Gulf St Vincent – from midday 15 December 2013 to midday 31 January 2014. During this time all fishing sectors will be prohibited from possessing, fishing for and taking Snapper within the four kilometre radius of each spatial closure area. These spatial closures are currently being reviewed for 2014/15 summer. Map of closures Frequently asked questions Location of Snapper spawning spatial closures Location Location coordinates Spencer Gulf Illusion 137o 32.600’ E, 33o 28.900’ S Santa Anna 137° 36.300’ E, 33° 36.300’ S Jurassic Park 137o 19.100’ E, 33° 54.700’ S Estelle Star 136° 50.900’ E, 33° 58.900’ S Gulf St Vincent 138° 00.000’ E, 34° 25.860’ S

What time of the year did you go , we're a bit concerned about being there at a bad time of the year , eg like July /August in Sydney when the big Westers blow Geoff

I'm thinking of heading to SA with a few mates around mid 2015 to do some snapper fishing most likely on a charter boat. Any one been there , done that , if so , would appreiciate your experiences or a few "do's & don'ts" Geoff

Not sure if this is the correct place , the mods can change if necessary. I caught a radio discussion on Saturday morning. The host mentioned the possibility of a rock fishing licence be it a separate or an endorsement on your current fishing licence. There is no shortage of reports, information & recommendations on the web however it appears the message is just not getting through to the rock fisho's. The main problem is there are no laws for at least the basic safety requirments , eg life vests helmets etc. Then there is the issue of policing the laws. I'll throw a few thoughts on the table for members comments. Rock fishing licence. This may not be as silly as it sounds. Boaters are required to have a licence & are not only responsible for the safety of the craft, passengers but also carry the prescribed safety equipment so why does the same not apply to rock fisho's? However, as all the deaths have occured along the coast, a licence would only be required for those who fish coastal the rock ledges. To be eligible for a licence or an endorsement on their existing fishing licence they would need, as boaters do, pass an exam. Those fishing from the rocks in enclosed waters would be exempt. Laws. There needs to be laws introduced advising those who fish coastal ledges need to be wearing a life jacket, helmet & cleated shoes. With out them nothing is going to improve. Signage. Getting the message across via forums, magazines, fishing clubs etc is in essense preaching to the converted. To advise every rock fisho of the laws, signs could be placed on the access points to ledges, in particular those which are considered more dangerous than others. They would be bilingual saying something like, Warning: persons intending to fish beyond this point must be wearing life jacket, helmet & cleated shoes. On the spot fines of $ 50 or $100 for each offence. Advertising: Place ads in ethnic newspapers, say once a month over the summer period advising of the dangers & requirements to fish ocean ledges & perhaps a rock fishing licence. Policing: Laws are not worth the paper they are written on unless they are policed. Various goverment agencies like police & MSB to name just two, spend heaps of $$$$ driving around our waterways on most days burning up huge amounts of fuel plus wages to watch out for infringements or to do safety equipment checks. If they can do that on the water surely a few officers can travel around by car to various fishing spots, especially when there are rough sea conditions & check on compliance to the safety equipment laws & a rock fishing licence if it becoms applicable. Finally, costing say $1000 for the supply & erection of each sign. Newspaper advertising, at a guess $1000 each. Policing, part of their job. Overall, $100,000 would go a long way to cover these costs which is cheap even if it only saves one life. Your thoughts Geoff

You could mount the Prowave or a Baitmate in front of the motor , just ensure the height or position is such it does not interfear with the motor when it's raised like your picture. Some other alternatives build the tank into the rear deck or even the seat with a hatch so the seat can still be used, Have a seperate baitboard across the motor recess. There is another option of having a tank that can be slid out from under the deck then pushed back when not required but one of the fuel tanks would need to be relocated. Geoff