Geoff
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Posts posted by Geoff
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Knave Here is the latest list for reference .
http://www.maritime.nsw.gov.au/sbh/safety_equipment/safety_equipment.html
As for the bucket , I agree with your comments. Where do they expect you to store the gear ??
Mine is in a storage box under the seat.
I suspect most other boaters store there gear in a similar location.
I'm now courious & have sent an E Mail to Maritime asking them to clarify the ruleing.
Geoff
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In certin conditions hydrofoils can be dangerous , digging in on one side & putting the boat on it's side.
There are a few horry stories around.
If you decide to add a "foil" then spend the money & fit a SE Sports 200 or a Permitrim.
Are they worth fittig ? It can depend on the boat & motor size but generally speaking they do improve performance getting onto the plane.
Geoff
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Richard Have a look at the Webster 5.2mt cuddy cabin. There are several for sale online in your price range.
There is one there for $32k , 115hp Yammie with only 54 hours on the clock. There in another for $37k
It may not tick all the boxes but they are hard to go past for ride , stability & fishability.
If you decide to tow rather than storing at a marina , keep in mind the weight difference between aluminium & fiberglass.
Just on the marina aspect , there are places around like this place at Kurnell that may be worth checking out , handy to ramps & no need to cleen & paint twice a year
http://www.highndrys...s/location.html
Geoff
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This may be of interest when planning your fishing trips
For daylight saving , set clocks forward 1 hour on 2/10/11.
ie , 6.13 becomes 7.13am. Sunset 17.37 to 18.37
Geoff
.......JUL..........AUG.........SEP..........OCT.........NOV........DEC
.....rise set.....rise set.....rise set.....rise set.....rise set.....rise set
1 0701 1657 0648 1715 0614 1737 0533 1757 0455 1823 0437 1851
2 0701 1657 0648 1716 0613 1737 0532 1758 0454 1824 0437 1852
3 0701 1658 0647 1717 0612 1738 0530 1759 0453 1824 0437 1853
4 0701 1658 0646 1717 0611 1739 0529 1800 0453 1825 0437 1853
5 0701 1659 0645 1718 0609 1739 0528 1800 0452 1826 0437 1854
6 0701 1659 0644 1719 0608 1740 0526 1801 0451 1827 0437 1855
7 0701 1700 0643 1719 0606 1741 0525 1802 0450 1828 0437 1856
8 0701 1700 0642 1720 0605 1741 0524 1803 0449 1829 0437 1857
9 0700 1701 0641 1721 0604 1742 0522 1803 0448 1830 0437 1858
10 0700 1701 0640 1721 0602 1743 0521 1804 0447 1831 0437 1858
11 0700 1702 0639 1722 0601 1744 0520 1805 0447 1832 0438 1859
12 0700 1702 0638 1723 0600 1744 0518 1806 0446 1833 0438 1900
13 0659 1703 0637 1724 0558 1745 0517 1806 0445 1834 0438 1901
14 0659 1703 0636 1724 0557 1746 0516 1807 0445 1835 0438 1901
15 0659 1704 0635 1725 0555 1746 0515 1808 0444 1836 0438 1902
16 0658 1705 0634 1726 0554 1747 0513 1809 0443 1837 0439 1903
17 0658 1705 0633 1726 0553 1748 0512 1810 0443 1838 0439 1903
18 0657 1706 0632 1727 0551 1748 0511 1811 0442 1839 0439 1904
19 0657 1706 0631 1728 0550 1749 0510 1811 0442 1840 0440 1904
20 0656 1707 0629 1728 0548 1750 0509 1812 0441 1841 0440 1905
21 0656 1708 0628 1729 0547 1750 0507 1813 0441 1842 0441 1905
22 0655 1708 0627 1730 0546 1751 0506 1814 0440 1843 0441 1906
23 0655 1709 0626 1731 0544 1752 0505 1815 0440 1843 0442 1906
24 0654 1710 0625 1731 0543 1752 0504 1816 0439 1844 0442 1907
25 0653 1710 0623 1732 0542 1753 0503 1816 0439 1845 0443 1907
26 0653 1711 0622 1733 0540 1754 0502 1817 0439 1846 0443 1908
27 0652 1712 0621 1733 0539 1755 0501 1818 0438 1847 0444 1908
28 0651 1712 0620 1734 0537 1755 0459 1819 0438 1848 0445 1909
29 0651 1713 0618 1735 0536 1756 0458 1820 0438 1849 0445 1909
30 0650 1714 0617 1735 0535 1757 0457 1821 0438 1850 0446 1909
31 0649 1714 0616 1736 0456 1822 0447 1909
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Pls add , Mottyman & son Andy + myself
Tks
Geoff
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If you could provide a model and year number , it would help a great deal in identifying problems with that particular model ( if indeed there are any ) .
Ross
Ross raises some good points , all of which should be taken on board & checked out.
Contact Craig at Huett Marine , he should be able to advise information once you have the serial No. , model etc.
In respect to "mates uncle said they are rubbish engines".
Mercury did have a bad reputation many years ago when their engins were designed & built for the fresh water market , they had a lot of mild steel parts.
This was fine until people started using them in salt water & corrosion set in.
It has taken Merc many years to recover & there are some , perhaps like your mates uncle , who remember the problems of days long gone by.
Geoff
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Do we have a date???
Geoff
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C - control panel
B - battery
1 - port/starboard lights
2 - flood light
3 - bilge pump for livies
4 - general light
A few suggestions ,
In addition to No. 1, a switch would be required for the anchor light
You may wish to use this type of switch pannel with the cig lighter fitting & make the flood light a portable fitting. The cig lighter fitting could also be used for a portable internal light.
http://www.biasboating.com.au/p-369-switch-panel-5-gang.aspx
Provision should be made for a bilge pump. It's a lot easier to flick a switch than
bailing water from the back of the boat.
As for the cable , suggest Bias cat. No. 583
Geoff
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Cheers Geoff - Thanks for putting the post and pics up - will move this into Boat Ramps - any idea on facilities at the ramp ( toilets, parking, fish cleaning etc etc ) that could be put in with the pics
Blood Knot
There are toilets & parking for about a dozen trailers at the creek ramp which is located behind the caravan park. No fish cleaning facilities.
Don't recal seeing any fish cleaning or toilet facilities at the main ramp.
Parking for 15 - 20 trailers in a nearby park
Geoff
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Hi raiders
Looking at the possibility of installing electrics on my tinny, I'm think a control panel, the usual lights, a nice floody at the front and maybe maybe a provision for some type of bilge pump for livies.
I should be ok to install myself.
Is there kits available?
What sort of money am I looking at?
Marine shops like Bias & Whitworth have heaps of gear available. It's best to purchase from these types of stores as all the gear is marine quality , especially the
cable.
Suggest you purchase a control pannel with 5 or 6 switches. You may only need 3 or 4 at this time but a few spares are very handy for future requirements.
Geoff
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LOCATION
CURRARONG
Called into Currarong on my way down the coast this week to check out the new ramp which was opened last December & take a few snaps to share with Raiders
These were taken at low tide on Monday when the strong Westerley was blowing.
Whilst this is a big improvement to the sand ramp , which , by the way is still accessable , the bigest short comming , other than exposure to any wind from the west or N/E there is no drop off facility for one of the crew to get the trailer.
FACILITIES
No fish cleaning or toilet facilities at the main ramp.
PARKING
Parking for 15 - 20 trailers in a nearby park
The ramp in the creek has had a face lift but is only accessable for boats up to 5 mt around high tide.
FACILITIES & PARKING
There are toilets & parking for about a dozen trailers at the creek ramp which is located behind the caravan park.
Geoff
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The beach next to the Grays Point (Gymea) boat ramp. It can become a bit busy on weekends but heaps of fish to keep the kids ammused. Took my granddaughter there a few months back
Geoff
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Yep, I'll do that guys - buy a whole new thing and put it in.
Talking about overhauling - how do you 'clean' up an overpainted aluminium boat? Our local paint shop prop. has been telling me don't use paint stripper because it'll eat away at the metal, especially around screws and such, and sanding and scraping can take too much metal off and... I don't know what..
What's the go?
Advice on the paint stripper may well be correct but suggest you call 1 or 2 of the larger paint companies , speak with their technical dept to obtain a second opinion.
Paint stripper would be best to get at those hard to access places , eg corners.
Burning & scraping may be an option.
Sanding with a disc sander would be OK provided it's done carefully , just removing the paint & not allowing the disc to have any heavy contact with the metal.
There are rotating type strippers that fit into an electric drill but these would be hard on the metal.
If you Google "Paint Strippers" there is a lot of information on the web inc paint stripper products for paint on aluminium
Geoff
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Morning Geoff: Check out the images below
I think at the end of the day my trailer is simply not a drive on.
I would tend to agree. Drive on trailers normally have guides to line the bow up with the center of the trailer then hold it in position as the boat moves up the trailer.
These come in various forms. Some have skids , some have rollers.
Here is one for example
The "V" shape retreiver mate may assist. I think they are mainly designed for winch on but the video dose show a drive on.
Check out the video
Geoff
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Hmmmm ok.... my faith in the interweb has been somewhat restored after finding the right keywords i've found this little gem.
http://www.nmsc.gov.au/media/pages_m...date_nov11.pdf
Would still love to know how others have tackled this situation though.
Foam is mainly used in packaging so if you have not already tried , search "foam packaging" or "packaging suppliers"
Most companies make to specific design but they should be someone who has blocks & will cut to size.
There is also the liquid version "liquid foam"
The advantage of liquid it will flow into & form any shape you require.
Also , Unable to get the web site to work.
Geoff
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Spoke with Byron this morning , he has recently moved house & his computer has yet to be reinstalled.
He asked me to thank all for their posts & best wishes.
Following several months of illness his hip operation has been reschedualed for late August.
Hopefully he will be up & about shortly there after
Geoff
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Dose it have a fitting that looks like this,
or is the thread actually cut into the aluminium.
If it is as per the photo then a bung should be available from a marine dealer , if not then purchase & fit a new base & bung.
If the thread is cut into the aluminium then a rubber bung like this should do the job
http://www.biasboating.com.au/p-1731-rubber-bung-15mm.aspx
Geoff
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Make your rollers work for you, your last roller should only just be submerged so that the front of the boat uses it. if you are winching on that woller will straiten the boat for you as it comes up.
The trailer I have now is a drive on set up though I still use the same thiery I rest the front of the boat against that roller then using gentle power steer the ass of the boat so that its in a strait line (more so when in current or wind) then straiten steering as you motor up the trailer.
Hope this is of some help to you or even other raiders.
Brett
Sam I use the same procedure as Brett both with the depth & lining the boat to the trailer.
The depth of the trailer in the water is very important. Too much & the boat will float all over the place , too little makes it difficult to retreive & places a lot of pressure on the trailer & winch.
A photo of the trailer , especially the rear area without the boat would be of assistance.
Geoff
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I have to echo a couple of other comments. The outflow is important. I have no trouble with too little or too much flow in to the tank under pump or boat movement (my setup is as per geoff's correct picture).
My problem is out flow, I can't get water out as quick as it comes in. The tank fills in about 5 minutes which seems adequate but I have to continually open and close the imtake valve to stop it turning the whole boat into a live tank.
And now of course since I drilled the correct size hole for the standard outlet I'm not sure how to enlarge it without wrecking the hull. Any tips would be appreciated.
I instaled a LBT into Jewgaffer's boat as per the manufacturers instructions & using the fittings supplied with the tank.
First outing the tank overflowed when underway.
Looking at the options we decided to install a second outlet
This photo shows the origional setup
The second outlet was installed about 2" below the origional outlet. Having it lower allowed the water to begin draining earlier & there was sufficient space between the drain & the top of the tank for any "excess".
If the water does get close to the top it runs out the top drain.
This may not be the most ideal set up but it works.
I'm not suggesting that all tanks should have two drains only to point out that having the drain too close to the top can incur overflow problems so having it a few inches lower can provide freespace for the excess water when traveling.
Geoff
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In reference to this post
http://www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/index.php?showtopic=56004
followed by several weeks of research I found a suitable secondhand unit at the right price which I picked up on Saturday
It's the Aussie Wheel which is made & sold in W.A.
For those who may be thinking of buying one of these units , some information that may be of interest.
Aussie Wheel is the Australian version (copy) of the Power Hitch. Power Hitch is made in the UK & sold by an agent at Londonderry.
I have discovered that they are not the easiest units to set up , ie it's not just a matter of hooking the towball to the coupling & pressing the button to tow or push the trailer into position.
It's a bit hard to explain but in essence , unless the ball / coupling are set up correctly the unit tips up.
I'm thinking of changing to the jockey post option as this should be easier & faster to set up. This may be a challenge with the battery box mounted on top.
Having said all that , I'm not disapointed with the purchase & will get things sorted out to make the connection & operation easier & faster.
If buying new , with the above experience combined with the research over recent weeks then I would have the Tow Dog No. 1 on the shopping list.
The main reason , the tow ball is in the center of the unit making it better balanced & easier to connect the coupling. Tipping is not an issue
Steering is easier as the rear drive wheels move independently when turning is required.
The batteries & charger come with the unit. The batteries are mounted on the underside & there for the unit is self contained & not relying on external power or a battery box mounted on the top.
With the batteries & charger included , it is also the least expensive to purchase.
Here is a photo , it's not as bulky as the photo suggests.
Geoff
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Noah,
If it's like my mates yamie there a plastic arm connected to the electric sensor thingy, that moves with the leg that gets stuck, probaly just needs a bit of inox or similar.
Gaz
Noah Here are a couple of pic's that may assist.
It's the black horizantal pin above the power tilt / trim pump. Lubricate as Gaz suggested unlil the arm moves freely
Geoff
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Geoff can I please ask what size tank you have there? That looks very similar to the Tempress liner and hatch's that are available.
The tank was a standard fitting on the boat , ie , it was fabricated & fitted into the rear deck during the boat manufacture. I'm not sure on the volume , I guess between 20 - 30 lt.
There is a lot more to installing a LBT than meets the eye along with some options that Gary has mentioned.
Below are photos that may be of interest.
This is the CORRECT position for the pump. Note the position of the pick up pipe.
This is the INCORRECT position of the bracket.The pipe is too low & , as Gary has said , can be easily damaged.
Plumbing set up for the deck wash / bait board wash
Deck wash connected to the bait board.
Geoff
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Thanks fellas, all great & pertinent advice and I have taken that on board (boat pun!).
What about if I put the bigger tank in but had 2 stand pipes, one for a fuller tank and the other shorter to lower the tank volume? Wouldn't that give me the best of both worlds?
You would only need the one inlet at or near the top. Two outlets are possible but the bottom one would need to have a tap to close off the flow when you want a full tank.
A drain hole will also be required as per this photo,
Instead of having two outlets use condute , one short , the other long. They just press fit into the drain hole.
To go one step further , have the short condute with a piece of clear plastic tube , available from any hardware store.
This slides over the condute & can be set at any height required on the day.
Geoff
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The tank size is an aspect & 28lt would be fine. The main consideration is the volume of water being pumped in.
For what you are looking for the Rule 360 would do the job but if you want a bit more volume then the Rule 500.
I use a 360 on my tank & find it OK.
Which ever pump is chosen ensure the outlet is the correct size & located in the correct position.
Keep in mind , the water enters the tank under pressure but leaves by gravity.
Geoff
What Drain Plug For My Tinny?
in Boating
Posted · Edited by Geoff
Agree. If when the paint is removed a few rivots are lose then drill them out & replace
with new alum rivots
Those that are OK , then , as the old saying goes , "if it ain't broke then don't fix it"
Geoff