Geoff

I could be in the same situation but will first check the S/No's . Identifying features Serial numbers SA310547 through SA362970, and serial numbers SA609001 to SA639743 Geoff

Dangas Below are two photo;s showing the brackets in more detail along with one with the motor removed. Note , on the front bracket , the "legs" which fit down the sides of the bow roller. Gary from Serious Stainless made & fitted the brackets. This also included machining the bow roller so the legs would fit. The brackets are very strong & as such very stable. In respect to removing the motor , are you refering the whole assembly , ie the actual motor / shaft & the motor cradle or just the motor. If the whole thing Byron requested it to be as secure as possible therefor it is bolted down to the deck. If you want something different then that would need to arranged when fitting the brackets. For interest the inside measurment between the bow rail where it is welded to the deck is 100mm Geoff

Depending on the space available between the rail at the the bow it may not be necessary to do any cutting. Below are some photos of Jewgaffers boat with the elect mounted over the bow. The boat is currently at my place so if you want more pic's let me know the specifcs & I will photo & post. Info & pic's are also available on the battery set up Geoff

In reference to my previous post these light have ordinary globes , not LED & are 100% sealed. http://www.biasboating.com.au/p-2021-submers-a-lite-pair-trailer-lights.aspx I've got them on my trailer which is imersed well below the water each time I launch & retreive. Other than 1 blown globe have remained water tight & free of corrosion since purchase 7 years ago. Geoff

If your refering to a design similar to the one in the photo then , yes , it is part of the water line & as such is included in the measurment. Geoff

There would be some scientific name for it but it works on the same principle as taking an empty glass , inverting it & placing it in a container of water. The water will only enter a few mm befor the air pressure inside the glass is equal to the water pressure & as such does not progress any further. If one light is OK then the assembly is air tight. If there is a small hole (crack) in the light then then the air can escape allowing the water to enter & corrode the internals. Changing to LED will not improve the situation if there is a crack in the lens/ housing. There is another light available which I will post seperatly Geoff

Jewieslayer. As there were no replies, that was in essence what I did & doubled checked by removing the tail light assembly & traced the wires. For any one interested , White , Earth connect to Black/ blue Green , RH turn.............blue Brown , Tail................brown Red , Brake...............blue / red Yellow ,LH turn.............pale green , which is a seperate wire mounted on the RH side The remaining black & blue wires remaining in the trailer loom are for other accessories. I also crossed check with the wireing on a VY . With the exception of the brake (Red ) all others are the same. Red goes to Green/red Geoff

My previous comments were based on information obtained from Maritime. I assume (guess) it is not considered , as the pod is not actually in the water & as such does not add any boyancy to the boat. Geoff

My understanding there are two methods. 1. Tip of the actual bow ( not inc the bow spit) to the transom. 2. Tip of the bow to the end of the water line. To clarify "the end of the water line" , the below photo shows the rear of my boat. Measuring , using method 1. is 4.6mt. Using method 2. which includes the the sponson extensions is 4.9mt. Under Maritime rules my boat can be remeasured & clasified as 4.9mt as the sponsons are part of the "water line". A lot of mono hulls have a filled in extended section off the transom. These are now included in the measurment.. What is not included or considered part of the "water line" are outboard pods , ie , bracket or extension fitted to the transom to which the motor is fitted. As an example , the outboard mounting on my boat is a further 100mm beyond the end of the sponson. This is not considered part of the water line & as such does not qualify the boat to be measured as 5.0mt Geoff

I want to wire in the cable from the trailer plug to the wireing loom that connects to the rear lights on a VZ Holden sedan. I know what coloured cables feed each light on the trailer. What I need is what colour cable on the vehicles loom feeds which light , tail , brake , blinkers etc Can any one assist tks Geoff

Interesting question. I can only guess , maybe they were hiting any thing they came across. What colour braid were you using. I only use dark green. Maybe that's less attractive or noticable than other colours Geoff

This is the rig I use when the jackets hit. Have not lost a rig yet. Two black wire traces , nothing shiny like brass swivels which attract them. They can bite the sinker , thinking it's something to eat but on wire unlikely to be bitten off. Next time your bitten off , it will most likely be just above or below a brass swivel or the line near the sinker. Using black swivels & ptotecting the sinker location with a wire trace should reduces the losses considerably Geoff

Thanks Geoff Is the Sikaflex just used to make the area smooth and clean where the seal will set (i.e. wait til it has dried before putting seal and hub back on). Or put seal and hub on while Sikaflex is still wet so that it holds it all in place and seals it off? How strong is the Sikaflex. How hard is to get the seal off down the track when checking / chanding under normal routine? Thanks for your help. As I understand , Sikaflex is a silicon based product. Apply the Sikaflex & whilst wet fit the seal, approx 2mm onto the axle. The product begins to dry rather quickly so fitting the seal , then the hub should be completed within a few minuits. Suggest you purchase the 100ml tube not the 310ml cartridge. The product tends to go off once opened so if you decide to dispose , the 100ml is the least expensive Like other silicon products when dry it is reasonably strong . To remove , just pull the seal off with your fingers. Any residue can be easily cleaned off with a knife or similar sharp instrument. Small residue can be cleaned off with a wire brush. Geoff

Went to Currarong yesterday with Jewgaffer to check out a few accommodation rentals & the status of the new boat ramp.. Work commenced in mid June with a planned completion date in late October Below are a few photo's of the progress thus far. These were taken at about half tide so it's a bit difficult to see what has actually occurred but it appears the rock shelf has been removed making it ready for concrete. There is still a lot to be done but things are progressing For those familiar with the area the new ramp is a few meters from the existing beach ramp Geoff

Adam If your refering to Bearing Buddies V's Durahub , I went with the BB as I had already purchased a set just prior to posting the topic. From the comments Durahub are certinally worth considering but regardless of the system chosen the main issue is to prevent water migrating past the rear seal. If you choose to use Sikaflex or a similar product around the stub axle , a tip regarding application & the fitting of the seal. After sanding the stub axle clean with a degreaser then wipe with metho to ensure surface is clean & free of oil residue. Apply the Sikaflex around the stub axle where the seal will be sitting. Slide the seal onto the axle , approx 2 mm , ie just enough to get it started. Fit the hub & screw on the hub nut. As the hub moves back it will push the seal into the correct position on the axle Geoff

Adam Have a scroll through this post , it may answer some of your questions http://www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/index.php?showtopic=48157&hl=Geoff&st=0 Sounds like you have the same problem I have with water entering between the stub axle & the seal. As others have said , the stub axle needs to be clean but if there is slight rust pitting I used Sikaflex 291 around the axle & Valplex M wheel bearing grease. Geoff

From time to time I see posts from Raiders who visit Currarong on the South Coast. I used to fish the area on a regular basis but for a number of reasons have not done so for many years. I no longer have contact information with the place we used to stay & as such not sure if that accommodation is still available. I am looking for a place that could accommodate 5 guys & parking , preferably on the property , for 2 or 3 boats. There are a few places listed on the web which look OK but would be interested to hear from anyone who has had personal experience. PM me if you prefer Tks Geoff .

If any one else is interested in the spread sheet pls PM me with your E Mail address. You will need to have Excel software ( Microsoft office) to read the sheet Geoff

Baz I'm currently going through the same exercise , a colour sounder , under $1000. Fishfinder only , not a combo. I fish similar area to yourself so I'm not looking for a sounder with a huge depth range , up to 60-80 meters is more than adequate When reading through the marine shop catalogues there are a lot listed & it's difficult by the way the adds are laid out to get a clear comparison so I have done an Excel matrix Listing all the brands & models that fit the above criteria. The initial list comprised of 11 units. This was reduced to 8 as 2 were outside the criteria The short list is down to Garmin 400c & the Lowrance Elite-5x The Lowrance , whilst $110 more expensive , is in front at present due to the better pixels & screen size. If I proceed , the next step is to visit the store & look at the 2 units side by side check out the differences , especially there ease of operation (I'm hopless with electronics, just want to turn on & forget) & their clarity in shalow water , ie under 10 meters If you would like a copy of the spread sheet PM you E Mail address. I assume you software has Excel Trust this will be of assistance Geoff

I received a mail fro Omoto Tawain. There is an agent in Melb. Contacted them , not very helpfull. They claim the DST300HL is discontinued yet it is still readily available offshore. They offered me a cheap reel for $50.00. As the reel was not available locally purchased from overseas. Price delivered $79.50 Suspect this price would similar to repairing the old one Geoff

Joe That's bacically what I use but purchase the the bacon or ham already sliced from the supermarket. I tried the baking tray but found the oysters , due to the round bottom tiped on their side making the cooking uneven. I now use a a cup cake tray. The oysters sit flat , being in a "cradle" & cook more evenly. Geoff

We were pulled over by the guy in the Sharkcat & we were also quized about the social when he noticed our name badges. I to have a lot of time for Maritime but this guy was a bit over the top. For something that should have taken a few minuits we were there for 10 min or more. He just went on & on about the infrigment. I got the feeling he was waiting for me to become agro or back answer to give him an excuse to pull out his book. The message here is , if pulled over be polite , don't challenge there questions or comments & unless there is a major infrigment , ther is a good chance to be let off with a warning. Any way , all ended well & the day was not spoiled by copping a fine Geoff

Yesterday afternoon we launched Jewgaffer boat boat to give the new motor a test run. A k or so up river from the social we were pulled over by Maritime for traveling in the middle of the channel when we should have been on the right hand side. Fortuatly we were let off with a warning avoiding a $550 fine Maritime had 2 units working the area , a boat & a PWC & appeared to be checking just about every boat for complience. Were any other Raiders pulled over?? Geoff

A big thanks to the Fishraider team for putting on another great day. Looking forward to the next one. Geoff

Rail The prediction for Picnic Point tomorrow , should be around 6 knots from the West at 7.00am then easing off in the afternoon. The current pressure is 1018 & rising It looks like a good one Geoff