Geoff

You say "from" BC , do u mean "for " a BC If so the unit is universal & can be fitted to basically any trailer boat. Contact Boatcatch direct , the web link is above for a price & availability But as previously mentioned , u must have a drive off , drive on trailer Geoff

Where do the cracks origionate from , the bolt holes ?? Do both sides crack or only one , if one , which side. When u fit new perspex how long before the cracking occurs , on the first outing or some time later Have u spoken to the perspex supplier about the problem Geoff

It should be , will need to take the boat to a boat code agent but to be sure , suggest you talk or e mail to the RMS , ie the old MSB. They may require some basic information , length , construction material , power or sailetc. Assuming it is power they may want to know the motor HP Geoff

They are worth looking at , there is only one problem , they tend to be few & far between. The main reason those who purchase one tend to hang onto them for ever. The main reason , it's very hard to find anything better in Alum. Geoff

We are moving off topic , apoligies to FishingGuy , but to answer your questions It's the 4.9. The 4.6 & 4.9 are the same boat it's just the different way they were measured. The 4.6 is bow to transom , the 4.9 is measured along the water line. A 70hp 2s. A lot were sold with a 60 hp 4s . I thought the 60 was too small Downhill in any boat can vary depending on the sea conditions , I don't have a problem Hull slap . Traveling slowly into a short chop you get some but nothing concerning. Drive on / off is very easy but the trailer depth is a critical factor. I also have a Boatcatch so no one gets their feet wet Geoff

If you decide to replace the U bolts don't bother trying to undo the nuts unless they look easy , ie not badly rusted. Just get an angle grinder & cut them off. As for the bearings , the first thing you need to determin is if the bearings are Holden or Ford. Ford is the most common. If you remove one of the outer bearings , which is very easy , there will be a No. stamped on the side. Note down the No. & call a local bearing supplier & they can tell what type you have. Others have mentioned cost , as a guide a set (2 wheels) of ford bearings , you should see change out of $50 depending on the brand & where you purchase. The only other item required is a can of good quality wheel bearing grease eg Castrol or Valvoline. Geoff

What is your budget as this will be a major factor. If considering alum twin hull perhaps you may like to look at a Webster , they come in a no. of sizes , 4.9mt is the most common but they are also available in 5.2mt As a guide ,good second hand ones are available for under $30k. Two of their pluses , only require one motor & the sponsoons are air tight as such are unsinkable. Geoff

Fab 1 is spot on "The thing that's important is taking the weight of the hydraulics regardless of what you use." There should be some sort of support on the motor either a pin or a fold down bracket . Check when the motor is at full tilt sometime they can be a bit hard to see Did you buy it new , was there not a handbook or user manual that came with the motor?? Geoff

It would be worth removing the prop to make sure there is nothing caught in behind the prop & the seal.

Where are you planning to install the bollard or do you have another plan for tying off the rope. Also , when the anchor is retreived , is the plan to pull it up hard against the hull & tie it off or to reach over & lift it into the boat ?? Geoff

I would not use brasso. A good product designed for cleaning perspex is a product actually called , Perspex. It's available from most large boat shops & perhaps from Supercheap , it in a bright blue aersol can.

I gave up trying to catch them. It's easier to go to the tackle store & for a few $$ but what i need , in & out in a few min's & on my way to the ramp Geoff

Fab 1 http://www.fishraider.com.au/Invision/index.php?showtopic=75845&hl=%2Bbow+%2Broller

I think your main problem is the bollard is too far forward. Suggest the first thing to do is to move the bollard back as far as possible so it is easy to reach . On my boat the bollard is between the screen & the anchor well which makes access very easy & no need to reach forward. It's a bit hard to see from your photo but I suspect there is insufficent room for a similar set up on your boat Try moving the bollard first , see how it goes before making the bow roller Geoff

don't spend the money on marine ply just waterproof ply available from all the large hardware store , it is much cheaper & does the same job

I'm not sure about the hole or the wire , if they look like they were there from day one & the motor runs & pumps water OK I suggest you just leave them. As to the corrosion , once it starts , it's hard to stop. remove what you can with a wire brush or something similar then spray on a regular basis with Inox. Do not use WD40 or similar products. They are not designed for this purpose & over a period of time the film will build up which is near impossible to remove. If your really keen & want to spend the time there are products available to remove , control & paint but the problem will be getting a colour match. Geoff.

filler is a cheap & easy fix for small holes but your boat is beyond that. Welding is an option but for the No. of holes you have would become also expensive & , I suspect the metal is very thin & as fast as you fill one hole another will appear. As Gary suggested replacing the whole transom is the best but , again not cheap. Considering you are on a budget & don't want to spend a lot of $$$ on something you may only keep for a short while I would be leaning towards the plywood option as mentioned above or , purchase a sheet of Aluminium cut it to size , apply a generous amount of sikaflex 291 or a suitable silicon around the holes & edges then pop rivot the sheet on. It may nit look too flash but will do the job at a reasonable price & if you cover the whole transom will give it a bit more strength. Geoff

From what you described I would not be too worried about it in the short term. I think there are people around who do prop repairs , perhaps google & make some enquiries on cost , repair V's new Can you post a photo so we can get a better idea Geoff

Don't be too concerned about the chain , I've only got about 2mt of light chain , it's the size & weight of the anchor that is important. Just on the rope , the rule of thumb is 3 times the depth , ie 20mt , let out 60mt rope but I normally find , depending on conditions twice is sufficent. Geoff

I think the first thing to decide is a suitable HP. Once that is determined you could then focus on brand & 2S V's 4s How does the boat handle , hole shot , speed wise with the current 60hp , say with 3 people on board , Ok or is it struggling just a comment , I think 115hp would be overkill on your boat Geoff

I jack mine up under the spring , on the fish plate where the U bolts are fitted

when on the drift , may be a sea anchor tied to a position on the side that keeps the boat in the position you want may do the trick.

Col Please see your PM's Geoff

I may be way off course here but I think the actual size , in particular the length , which you cannot do anything about , is the problem & when on the plane the trailing edge "digs" in causing the spray to occure. At presant you have the transducer leval with the bottom of the boat which is the normal position. Perhaps try to raise the trailing edge slightly so it's leval with the water when on the plane rather than the bottom of the boat. With this change it will not be digging in so much. Geoff

I don't think it has anything to do with the battery age. Suggest you remove the cable from the battery then wash both down with BOILING water. There are proberly special products you can buy but you could try a coating of WD40 or a smear of greese onto the terminal & cable