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Tohatsu starting problem


Bryant fish

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Hi having intermittent problem starting tohatsu m40c electric start sometimes starts no problem other times solenoid clicks but no starter turnover if I remove scowling and turn starter motor cog by hand can usually start by key again have swapped starter motor with spare and checked cleaned wiring I'm thinking solenoid any ideas thanks

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On 10/8/2019 at 8:13 PM, Bryant fish said:

Hi having intermittent problem starting tohatsu m40c electric start sometimes starts no problem other times solenoid clicks but no starter turnover if I remove scowling and turn starter motor cog by hand can usually start by key again have swapped starter motor with spare and checked cleaned wiring I'm thinking solenoid any ideas thanks

It's not that unusual for that to happen occasionally. Does it still occur if you turn the key again?

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Could be solenoid but also check earth leads, had a similar problem about 50 years ago 2 specialist mechanics later and all sorts of tests done and I took it to an old back yarder mower mechanic in Merrylands,  he put a jump lead on and problem found, lead looked OK but just wasn't getting the juice through. Put new earth lead on and problem solved.

Frank

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I had identical problem on my first outboard.   The solenoid was separate from the starter and occasionally would not make the internal connections/contacts.

I could not get a replacement as it was an obscure swedish brand Archemedes Penta (later bought out by Volvo and sold as a Volvo Penta o/b)  

I ended up dismantling the solenoid and adjusting the very simple internals, then reassembling.  Never had another problem.

Yours could be the leads.... so take the easy way and check them first.

Edited by dmck
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  • 1 month later...
On 11/30/2019 at 12:37 PM, Bryant fish said:

Hi just an update pulled starter apart and decided to clean it up with degreaser and wire brush works great again will need to change brushes soon looks fairly easy.if your having trouble try cleaning it saved over $550on new one cheers

Top effort and $550.00 in front...... and an inspiration for others to "have a go"

 

If you cant get the exact brushes go to an auto electrician and try...   I have also bought oversize ones and filed them down.

 

NEver ever give up!

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1 minute ago, Bryant fish said:

Hi all dmck did you cut old brushes off at copper strap and solder new ones on strap to strap thanks

 

No.  I kept the copper braid (if thats what you mean) intact.  If its not what you mean I need to see pics to understand.

I'm not sure soldering a new one on would be safe. I'd be frightened the solder would melt (even though its melting point is around 600 degrees celsius...)

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The brushes had a flexible copper braid embedded in one end. THat braid connected to a screw terminal on the brush housing.

There are many different styles of brush, thats why it is best to start with either the genuine spare parts or take the brushes to an auto electrician for him to try and find an alternative.

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19 hours ago, Bryant fish said:

Ok mate understand now the one I have needs to be soldered it should be easy enough thanks all for your help

Knowledge is only useful if its shared.  Hope what I've said DOES help.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi ended up having to replace bushes earlier than I thought  I would have to fairly easy just need to look at way it all goes together and solder new ones on if you are going to to try a starter motor rebuild pay attention to where everything goes not hard to clean up and solder bushes on

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Make sure you clean the commutator as they wear out and build up with excess carbon from the brushes making it ark out overheat and stop working.This is done by scraping between the copper positives on commutator this will help with the reco 

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