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zmk1962

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Posts posted by zmk1962

    Installing an Anchor Drum Winch in my Haines Hunter 635L

    in The Workshop

    Posted

    So we went out yesterday for that sea trial .... man-o-man... all I can say is "why didn't I get a winch sooner". Anchored several times at varying depths in the Hawkesbury 7m - 15m  and several times out past Barrenjoey around 30m ... it's just effortless. If you're not happy how the boat came up against the mark just lift and shift at the press of a button.

    Now I just have to turn the investment into fish as yesterday there were no fish to speak off. No keepers. Just juvenile flatties and pinkies and one lonely eel under the Brooklyn rail bridge. But for once I didn't mind. Guess I was just happy (distracted?) playing with my winch.

    Cheers

    Zoran

     

    Rod storage

    in The Workshop

    Posted

    ... yep then as Marty says... probably the fitting used to hold the clips.  I was asking as I noticed slight surface rust stains would form on my ss grab rails where folks held onto them... especially if they had greasy hands (suntan lotion, fish oils from bait etc). I made a note to occasionally wash those areas with soapy water to remove the grease and now no more rust.  Its just the way stainless steel works - the shiny protective layer (chromium tri-oxide) needs to be clean and exposed to air for it to resist rust.

    Cheers

    Zoran

    Roseville Boat Ramp

    in Boating

    Posted

    Hey Raiders,

    I was just planning a trip and Googled Roseville Boat Ramp.  Google presented:

    Address: Roseville Bridge Boat Ramp
    Hours:
     
    Tuesday Closed
    Wednesday 12–6pm
    Thursday 12–6pm
    Friday 12–6pm
    Saturday 12–6pm
    Sunday 12–6pm
    Monday Closed

    I have fished from that ramp often but have never seen that it was "Closed"  apart from when the renovation work was being done.

    News to me that it was closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.  Does it really now have operating hours?

    Cheers

    Zoran

    Rod storage

    in The Workshop

    Posted · Edited by zmk1962
    added content

    On 7/7/2017 at 8:07 PM, Fab1 said:

    Good thinking 99,love your work.On a side note it's funny how  only a couple of screws on your windscreen are rusted and not the others.

    Rick. Practical and creative rod storage solution - good stuff. Just out of curiosity. Do you often place your hand on the windscreen where the rusted screws are?  Do you hold there with your right as you steer with your left?

    cheers Zoran

    Battery

    in The Workshop

    Posted

    Hi deek... I guess your question is what capacity battery should you be buying as a replacement?

    As a starting point, what battery capacity did you have and what was your experience with that size battery??

    If your not sure, Then here is my take:

    1) check you motor manual for the recommended CCA (cold crank amps) battery for starting. This is what you want on hand to start your motor effectively.

    2) Only you know how long you plan to run your lights + sounder just off the battery. So perhaps check the sounder manual for what current it draws, same for lights (say standard white/red/green nav lights -- estimate 3 x 5watt if they are standard incandescent, less if they are LED).  

    Regarding calculating how long your battery will last running just this gear - here's how I would do it :

    1) Check the capacity rating of your batteries - you are looking for the Amp hours number

    2) Check your equipment consumption - usually a Watt (W) rating and convert that to Amps (A). Use a calculator like the one here http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Watt_to_Amp_Calculator.htm, or the formula I=P/V I=AMPS, P=Watts, V=volts (usually 12V in your boat DC circuit)

    3) Divide the Battery Amp hours by the equipment draw in Amps and the resulting number is the number of hours that your battery should roughly last.

    A lot of this was discussed in a previous post --

    Cheers

    Zoran

    Sea sickness

    in Fishing Chat

    Posted

    + 1 for Captain Spanner's comments TRAVACALM .... and note: "TRAVACALM (Blue and White Box are the proper ones) are a completely different product to Travel Calm (normally just ginger tablets)."

    Don't let this bloke weld your boat guys

    in The Bar

    Posted

    I don't do FB either so I cant view the video.... but even if he drained the gear box oil heat generated with aluminium welding is around 600deg C and aluminium is a really good conductor of heat...any drop of oil would vapourise and ignite ... if the engine just caught fire he is lucky as the damn gearbox could have exploded like a bomb ....

    But the thing that got me most - HE IS LYING UNDER THE WELDING !!!!!  Even taking all safety precautions, I've had a spatter of aluminium weld drip onto my leather work boot, go through the boot, the sock and about 4mm of skin on the top of my foot before I could get the boot off. Imagine that molten aluminium burning a hole through his gut...

    Dangerous twit.... he is a definite candidate fro the Darwin award. .

    Cheers

    Zoran

    Installing an Anchor Drum Winch in my Haines Hunter 635L

    in The Workshop

    Posted

    Hey Raiders,

    Lately I have been quieter than usual on the forum as I have been very busy finishing off my anchor drum winch installation project to get my boat ready for summer.

    In general I found there was a lot of information out there on how to install an anchor winch but I found it was more geared toward alloy craft.  So I collected photos as I made my way through the project and have now assembled it into a short video - a basic summary of how I installed an anchor drum winch in my fiberglass hull boat. 

    A very big thanks to Marty for all the tips/pointers and contacts for the fiberglass work. Fiberglassing was a totally new experience for me.

    Hope this helps someone else contemplating how to go about it.

    Cheers.

    Zoran

    Wiring in a battery charger with dual batteries.

    in Boating

    Posted · Edited by zmk1962
    inserted correct diagram

    Hi Squidmarks,

    The circuit you have drawn is the basic wiring circuit I have installed. Once I had that, I decided to install additional controls as per my modified circuit diagram below:

    LEGEND:

    meter = cheap voltage meter. Cut off the electrode probes and fit male bayonet plugs, female plug fitted to switch box.

    SWITCH BOX

    Sm= master switch (isolates the charger from the circuit)

    S1= switch to control charging to battery 1

    S2= switch to control charging to battery 2

     

    With the circuit connected via the multi pin plugs in the boat I can now charge both batteries, charge one or the other, isolate out the charger and test voltage on both batteries or individually. All from the charging station and without having to undo boat covers and get back in the boat.

    I am not sure how far the boat batteries will be away from the charger. But I understand you want to use the 240V 15A lead.  Just consider that you are dealing with DC electricity here. DC does not travel well on thin wires and you will get voltage drop over distance which may impede with your charging efficiency. You will get less drop with thicker wires. (I'll let more electronically minded people comment further on that.) In my circuit I used 3-4 mm2 garden lighting cable. The stuff they use to wire up LED garden lights which are all long run DC circuits. Its cheap and available from Bunnings. This also drove me to the Andersen type plug as the connector.

    Cheers

    Zoran

     

     

    Charging Diagram 3.jpg

    IMG_3993.JPG

    Wiring in a battery charger with dual batteries.

    in Boating

    Posted

    Hi Squidmarks,

    My solution was to run a +ve wire from your switch 1, 2 connectors and a -ve wire from your battery into a multipin plug connector. The other part of the plug connecter is wired into your CTEK charger. That way its a plug and unplug of the multipin connector to connect or disconnect your charging circuit.  Please see attached pictures.

    Note:

    1) I put a fuse into each of the +ve wires from the switch pole (1,2) to the multi pin plug. 

    2) I made the plugs that comes from the switch: +ve  female and -ve male (don't like exposed +ve terminals in a -ve grounded boat !)

    3) I have a 3 battery set up. So I used a 4 way multi pin plug connector as pictured so I have 3x +ve and one -ve. But it is analogous to what you are trying to achieve.

    4) I have hard mounted the multi pin plug coming out of the switches up high on my transom. You can see it just under the switches facing the camera smothered in good old vaso. You can also see the 3white fuses in the charging circuit in the photo.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers

    Zoran

    4-pin-wired-multi-pin-plug-socketImageMain-300.jpg

    IMG_7120.JPG

    Braid self tie Knot

    in Fishing Chat

    Posted

    hmmmm .... this is a frequent problem in offshore fishing....and one that is compounded when you're trolling with 30-50m out and a hooked wayward misbehaving kingfish decides to go dart across and tangle the lines, or a newbie at the helm turns the corner just a tad to sharp.... what to do when all 4  braid lines are knotted with about 30-50m still behind the boat !!!

    Cut and rejoin is the only solution that I have found.

    Double uni has not failed me...but generally offshore we are fishing heavier braid.

    Cheers

    Zoran

     

    Is there a trend to "under power" boats these days?

    in Boating

    Posted · Edited by zmk1962
    correct error

    Is there a trend to underpower ? ....hmmm have a look at the attached photo taken at the recent Sydney Boat show. The craft was around 8m with a 3m beam...and on the back a single 150HP 4st.  When I asked the rep there if he thought it was maybe a tad underpowered he went into a lengthy dialog about infusion resin manufacturing process ensuring just the right amount of resin resulting in minimal weight hulls .....( yerrr right - me thinks - having faced many a green wave offshore and been very glad that I had 200hp on my 6.35m with 2.4m beam hull and that Haines had overspec'd and laid that 1in think fibreglass at the bow and stern)....

    Fact is... if the vendors can cut costs they will... beware the boat show / boat yard specials.

    Cheers

    Zoran

    IMG_6861.JPG

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