zmk1962
-
Posts
2,988 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
68
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Fishing Tips, Advice and Articles
Blogs
Store
Posts posted by zmk1962
-
-
Hi TK01,
I don't own an alloy boat but have some experience with painted alloy as the pod and marlin board on my boat are alloy...I agree the pull apart and refit are probably as big a job as the prep and painting. That's why when I changed over the motor I took the opportunity to have the pod repainted - I used a car smash repairer to sand blast, etch prime and 2 pack spray the pod while still mounted to the boat. But after 17yrs of use I now have the inevitable dings and scratches and some blistering paint spots... I am not really concerned as to me its largely an aesthetic thing.
Are you concerned that without paint your boat will corrode quicker? From my perspective, there are many bare alloy boats out there - infact most commercial fisherman, oyster farmers etc run bare alloy. The alloy itself produces a dull coating (oxidisation) that in general prevents further corrosion. Its this oxidisation process that is blistering your paint...but it is also protecting the underlying metal. So I don't think any real damage has been done to the hull by flaking paint. The damage usually comes from electrolysis/galvanic corrosion where you have non alloy metals in contact with the hull eg: fittings to the hull that are incorrectly mounted without sealants inbetween, or old sinkers lying in contact with the alloy hull - and that type of corrosion can even happen where you drill through painted surfaces. Or from acidic liquids sitting in contact with the alloy for prolonged periods - this can manifest as a pinhole or cheese cloth perforated area on the alloy.
So maybe scrape away some of the flaking and have a good look at the underlying alloy as I think the first thing you would want to be comfortable with is that the boat structure has not been compromised.
Perhaps some raiders with bare alloy boats can chip in and share their experiences !
Once comfortable with that, evaluate do you like the boat, the way it handles and does it meet your fishing requirements? If it does maybe lean toward keeping it.
Regarding aesthetics, if you want to minimize the work but are concerned about aesthetics have you considered:
1) work around the fit out and go back to bare alloy
2) go bare alloy bottom of hull and paint top sides
Anyway, I feel for ya! ... putting in so much work into your pride and joy and being let down by the guy you hired must feel like the pits.
Best of luck.
Zoran
-
22 hours ago, JonD said:
You don't need an epirb untill you head more than 2nm offshore.
You are correct JonD... epirbs and radios are additional requirements once you are 2nm offshore...
But Night Raider ... just be aware that all the other safety gear for "Open Waters" is required to be onboard even if you are less then 2nm offshore but are in what Maritime defines as "Open Waters".
Maritime has defined sydney harbour "Open Waters" as a line from Cannae Pt (north harbour) to South Head. The map can be found here: http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/documents/maritime/usingwaterways/maps/boating-maps/9d-port-jackson.pdf
So even fishing North Head puts you into Open Waters.
Net is ....if you are experimenting around there already, just get the epirb and radio. It will make it safer for you and avoid the hassles if the conditions are right to duck further outside.
Cheers
Zoran
-
Great report. Where were you fishing? BTW, at one stage I thought I was going to ask - what the wallaby tasted like? ...but then I see you practiced catch and release there too.
Cheers
Zoran
-
Awesome King .... nice job !
-
So we went out yesterday for that sea trial .... man-o-man... all I can say is "why didn't I get a winch sooner". Anchored several times at varying depths in the Hawkesbury 7m - 15m and several times out past Barrenjoey around 30m ... it's just effortless. If you're not happy how the boat came up against the mark just lift and shift at the press of a button.
Now I just have to turn the investment into fish as yesterday there were no fish to speak off. No keepers. Just juvenile flatties and pinkies and one lonely eel under the Brooklyn rail bridge. But for once I didn't mind. Guess I was just happy (distracted?) playing with my winch.
Cheers
Zoran
-
Nice going. Congrats.. lots of good eating there !
-
A+. Love a fresh flattie.
-
... yep then as Marty says... probably the fitting used to hold the clips. I was asking as I noticed slight surface rust stains would form on my ss grab rails where folks held onto them... especially if they had greasy hands (suntan lotion, fish oils from bait etc). I made a note to occasionally wash those areas with soapy water to remove the grease and now no more rust. Its just the way stainless steel works - the shiny protective layer (chromium tri-oxide) needs to be clean and exposed to air for it to resist rust.
Cheers
Zoran
-
Thanks guys. It was a satisfying project. Hope to get out on Monday for a sea trial (and fish!!).
Cheers
Zoran
-
Hey Raiders,
I was just planning a trip and Googled Roseville Boat Ramp. Google presented:
Address: Roseville Bridge Boat RampHours:Tuesday Closed Wednesday 12–6pm Thursday 12–6pm Friday 12–6pm Saturday 12–6pm Sunday 12–6pm Monday Closed I have fished from that ramp often but have never seen that it was "Closed" apart from when the renovation work was being done.
News to me that it was closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Does it really now have operating hours?
Cheers
Zoran
-
On 7/7/2017 at 8:07 PM, Fab1 said:
Good thinking 99,love your work.On a side note it's funny how only a couple of screws on your windscreen are rusted and not the others.
Rick. Practical and creative rod storage solution - good stuff. Just out of curiosity. Do you often place your hand on the windscreen where the rusted screws are? Do you hold there with your right as you steer with your left?
cheers Zoran
-
Hi deek... I guess your question is what capacity battery should you be buying as a replacement?
As a starting point, what battery capacity did you have and what was your experience with that size battery??
If your not sure, Then here is my take:
1) check you motor manual for the recommended CCA (cold crank amps) battery for starting. This is what you want on hand to start your motor effectively.
2) Only you know how long you plan to run your lights + sounder just off the battery. So perhaps check the sounder manual for what current it draws, same for lights (say standard white/red/green nav lights -- estimate 3 x 5watt if they are standard incandescent, less if they are LED).
Regarding calculating how long your battery will last running just this gear - here's how I would do it :
1) Check the capacity rating of your batteries - you are looking for the Amp hours number
2) Check your equipment consumption - usually a Watt (W) rating and convert that to Amps (A). Use a calculator like the one here http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Watt_to_Amp_Calculator.htm, or the formula I=P/V I=AMPS, P=Watts, V=volts (usually 12V in your boat DC circuit)
3) Divide the Battery Amp hours by the equipment draw in Amps and the resulting number is the number of hours that your battery should roughly last.
A lot of this was discussed in a previous post --
Cheers
Zoran
-
+ 1 for Captain Spanner's comments TRAVACALM .... and note: "TRAVACALM (Blue and White Box are the proper ones) are a completely different product to Travel Calm (normally just ginger tablets)."
-
Yes...probably on special at Walmart that week... ?
-
Thanks Marty and Peterbylsma.... can't wait for the winds to die down to get the tub out ! Looking forward to using it. Really hope this gives me the edge to give the flatties and reds a really tough time .... he he he.
Cheers
Zoran
-
I don't do FB either so I cant view the video.... but even if he drained the gear box oil heat generated with aluminium welding is around 600deg C and aluminium is a really good conductor of heat...any drop of oil would vapourise and ignite ... if the engine just caught fire he is lucky as the damn gearbox could have exploded like a bomb ....
But the thing that got me most - HE IS LYING UNDER THE WELDING !!!!! Even taking all safety precautions, I've had a spatter of aluminium weld drip onto my leather work boot, go through the boot, the sock and about 4mm of skin on the top of my foot before I could get the boot off. Imagine that molten aluminium burning a hole through his gut...
Dangerous twit.... he is a definite candidate fro the Darwin award. .
Cheers
Zoran
-
Hey Raiders,
Lately I have been quieter than usual on the forum as I have been very busy finishing off my anchor drum winch installation project to get my boat ready for summer.
In general I found there was a lot of information out there on how to install an anchor winch but I found it was more geared toward alloy craft. So I collected photos as I made my way through the project and have now assembled it into a short video - a basic summary of how I installed an anchor drum winch in my fiberglass hull boat.
A very big thanks to Marty for all the tips/pointers and contacts for the fiberglass work. Fiberglassing was a totally new experience for me.
Hope this helps someone else contemplating how to go about it.
Cheers.
Zoran
-
PS - If you look at the picture of my switch box you will see 5 toggle switches. Top down, the first is the Master (isolates the charger), the next four are for batteries. First is the breakaway battery on the trailer, then the next three are the boat batteries.
-
Hi Squidmarks,
The circuit you have drawn is the basic wiring circuit I have installed. Once I had that, I decided to install additional controls as per my modified circuit diagram below:
LEGEND:
meter = cheap voltage meter. Cut off the electrode probes and fit male bayonet plugs, female plug fitted to switch box.
SWITCH BOX
Sm= master switch (isolates the charger from the circuit)
S1= switch to control charging to battery 1
S2= switch to control charging to battery 2
With the circuit connected via the multi pin plugs in the boat I can now charge both batteries, charge one or the other, isolate out the charger and test voltage on both batteries or individually. All from the charging station and without having to undo boat covers and get back in the boat.
I am not sure how far the boat batteries will be away from the charger. But I understand you want to use the 240V 15A lead. Just consider that you are dealing with DC electricity here. DC does not travel well on thin wires and you will get voltage drop over distance which may impede with your charging efficiency. You will get less drop with thicker wires. (I'll let more electronically minded people comment further on that.) In my circuit I used 3-4 mm2 garden lighting cable. The stuff they use to wire up LED garden lights which are all long run DC circuits. Its cheap and available from Bunnings. This also drove me to the Andersen type plug as the connector.
Cheers
Zoran
-
PS - Wiring no probs....BUT.... I can't for the life of me figure out how to imbed pictures where I want them in the text or how to get the orientation of the pictures correct. Sorry !
-
Hi Squidmarks,
My solution was to run a +ve wire from your switch 1, 2 connectors and a -ve wire from your battery into a multipin plug connector. The other part of the plug connecter is wired into your CTEK charger. That way its a plug and unplug of the multipin connector to connect or disconnect your charging circuit. Please see attached pictures.
Note:
1) I put a fuse into each of the +ve wires from the switch pole (1,2) to the multi pin plug.
2) I made the plugs that comes from the switch: +ve female and -ve male (don't like exposed +ve terminals in a -ve grounded boat !)
3) I have a 3 battery set up. So I used a 4 way multi pin plug connector as pictured so I have 3x +ve and one -ve. But it is analogous to what you are trying to achieve.
4) I have hard mounted the multi pin plug coming out of the switches up high on my transom. You can see it just under the switches facing the camera smothered in good old vaso. You can also see the 3white fuses in the charging circuit in the photo.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Zoran
-
hmmmm .... this is a frequent problem in offshore fishing....and one that is compounded when you're trolling with 30-50m out and a hooked wayward misbehaving kingfish decides to go dart across and tangle the lines, or a newbie at the helm turns the corner just a tad to sharp.... what to do when all 4 braid lines are knotted with about 30-50m still behind the boat !!!
Cut and rejoin is the only solution that I have found.
Double uni has not failed me...but generally offshore we are fishing heavier braid.
Cheers
Zoran
-
I would have been happy to pay to hear that joke !
Cheers Z
-
I called the mob today ... 1200x2400x10mm $480+gst ...so this stuff is in the realm of planning for a second mortgage. I am back to plywood and fibreglass/gelcoat wrap as best approach for me.
Cheers
Zoran
Fishing diary
in Fishing Chat
Posted
Yep I was going to mention Navionics and Fishing Deluxe as options.
Fishing Deluxe is an iPhone app (http://lifewaresolutions.com/) $2.99 in app store (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/fishing-deluxe-best-fishing/id485251405)
It has ability to keep a fishing log: free format text, photo, co-ordinates, also can populate with the weather automatically etc. I dont use that function so cant vouch for usability but you might want to check out the app store.
FYI, I basically use it for the solunar tables for planning my trips out.
Cheers
Zoran