zmk1962
-
Posts
2,985 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
68
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Fishing Tips, Advice and Articles
Blogs
Store
Posts posted by zmk1962
-
-
Now there’s one happy face.....Congratulations and welcome to the Haines club !!!!! (you may have gathered I’m very happy with mine !)
Cheers
Zoran
-
Took me a while to work it out. You need an iPad with the GPS chip inside to get the GPS navigation to work - my research basically concluded the models that had a SIM card also had the GPS chip.
WiFi only ipads (no SIM) have very basic navigation capability by pinging off WiFi towers but they don’t work offshore. I tried hot spot to my iPhone - still did not work. In the end I sold my WiFi model on gumtree and bought a SIM model also on gumtree - all working now.
I run with NO SIM card installed and no hot spot - so there is NO mobile data usage when boating. When home the iPad is on my WiFi network and I do all the map updates, sync etc
Cheers Zoran
-
2 minutes ago, Scratchie said:
You could opt for the cheaper unit and have navionics app on your phone/iPad. Works for me!
Yup again.... I mentioned at the start of this post that's exactly what I am using - but I loaded my Navionics onto an iPad Mini - I like the larger screen size to zoom in on the sonarchart !
Cheers
Zoran
-
Yup... load as many safety measures as you can.
There is a nice user friendly feature as well... if you have your VHF proficiency certificate you can also get an MMSI (a world wide unique identifier). You can then enter that into your DSC enabled radio so that it becomes MMSI registered. From there you can DSC transmit/share your location to other folks that have an MMSI and DSC enabled VHF set. Seems like a very efficient way to transmit/share your location with your buddies (using 72-73-77 channels - recreational use - ofcourse). If you have a current model GPS/Chart plotter (that accepts NMEA in) should be able to see the other vessel - or plot their location as a way point.
I have not registered for MMSI yet... waiting for a few more buddies to get theirs... (and my GPS unit is old as I mentioned earlier)
Cheers
Zoran
-
Nice....!! I'm scheduled to be there Saturday.... hope they hang around ! ... Cheers Zoran
-
Thanks so much for sharing ! .....
-
Most VHF radios with DSC (Digital Signal Calling) ... will be able to be hooked up to a GPS. The GPS provides the radio the Lat Long co-ordinates and the protocol they talk in is NMEA from memory. So when buying a GPS check that it has an NMEA out feature, and that the Radio has an NMEA in feature. Once connected and talking the VHF radio is constantly updated with your latest location co-ordinates. My VHF has a red emergency button under a plastic flip cover. Lift that and press... it broadcasts my location and distress signal. No Talk required. No wasted time.
Cheers
Zoran
-
He Stanton, I would definitely go with a GPS system if heading offshore. Its a no brainer. I use mine on every trip. However, in my opinion whether you choose to go with a combo or dedicated sat nav setup is a separate decision.
There are very cheap ways to get into sat nav these days eg: you could get away with using your iPhone/iPad/Android and an app like Navionics Australia New Zealand. Its about $20 per year from memory.
As an example, I have an aging Seacharter Eagle combo .... The GPS part still works, tracks location but is aging and can't take the latest charts. The Sounder on the other hand is a great dual frequency unit (and since I have fitted my transducer as shoot through hull I can sound bottom even at >45knts). So until my sounder dies I am reluctant to rip it out and now I pretty well dedicate the Seacharter as a sounder and run with Navionics (Australia/NZ) on an iPad mini mounted on the dash in a waterproof case as my GPS system. Navionics has the latest sonar charts, latest map upgrades, community updates (fishing marks) and works pretty well.
So if price is a consideration you might consider trying Navionics on your iphone/android and see if it meets your requirements before you splash out on the combo.
BTW - back to the safety comment, most combo units have an NMEA out port. If you purchase a DSC enabled VHF radio, you can connect the NMEA out into the VHF radio and at the push of a button send out your Lat Long co-ordinates in a "digital Mayday message". You can't do that with your iPhone/iPad/Android set up. So there are pro-and cons.
(In my case my old combo still feeds the lat long to the VHF radio in the background while I have the display showing the sounder/fishfinder and the iPad my location).
Cheers and Best of luck.
Zoran
-
Agree with earlier comment that when you get to this much build up then the only way to get rid of it is to pull apart and mechanically remove. I don't know of any product that will dissolve it but keep the block intact. In general I've always been told that high water pressure just forces salt further into cracks etc. What you want is copious quantities of fresh water to dissolve away the salt. So +1 for flushing for as long as possible (and staying friends with the neighbours).
Re noise... silence using bucket/bin if the setup and location is convenient to allow moving a bin around, but if you are on a hose out in the street, or the leg is high then consider making up a silencer/muffler. I've posted my DIY solution previously here ...
Cheers
Zoran
-
Awesome Night Raider !!! No need to apologize...its a learning curve ... We're all just at different parts of the curve. I have found in life (and particularly in boating) the only dumb question is the one that's not asked. There's always something to learn.
If you haven't found it already, check the Fishraider "Links" tab. Lots of helpful info to plan your offshore outings.
Cheers
Zoran
-
Night Raider.
Navionics- Switch on community edits and you will see many marks with descriptions.
Cheers
Zoran
-
I can make out ABG400 on the side of my tin (second last picture I posted just above the barcode)... so its the same product part number but earlier manufacturing date. I bought mine from Bias marine just before they shut doors - perhaps 3+yrs old now. The tin picture from the website has something written in the aqua coloured box below Septone... can't quite make it out...
But it looks like they have made some product changes and the new product has the below waterline restriction. Good Catch Fishop !
So back to Bears question... to fix the gelcoat gouge, the process is as discussed ... you will need a gelcoat putty (read the product fine print) or you can mix your own: flowcoat + something like AEROSIL filler (to make it a paste and non sag for vertical surfaces). They are all relatively in-expensive.
Cheers
Zoran
-
...and the last two photos... probably the most relevant ones !!
-
Seems I have hit the 4.88mb limit... have to figure out how to post the last two photos....
-
Hi Fishop,
My tin is several years old and does not have that warning (I've read it 4 times now!!). Maybe Septone changed the formula - perhaps they have switched to a cellulose thickener to make it easier to sand - the cellulose may absorb water. I guess a call to the distributor in Australia should sort this out. Good catch if they have changed it - thanks !
BTW yes I have used it below the water line... no issues so far... my boat is not moored....so it is in the water max 48hrs continuous.
Attaching photos of my tin and the labels next.
Cheers
Zoran
-
Hi Bear,
From the picture it looks like the damage happened near the bow... this is one of the strongest parts of the hull with the most fglass layers so I doubt any structural damage has occurred that would require more than gelcoat repair.
Gelcoat is the cosmetic and waterproof layer that sits on top of the fglass (its the fglass which provides the strength and structure). Repairing Gelcoat is fairly simple. However, if the underlying fglass was damaged then it would be much more complex involving opening up the glass to further expose the fglass strands, using fglass cloth/chopped strand + resin to rebuild the structure, and then topcoating with gelcoat/flowcoat. (pretty much what rick described previously).
Gelcoat chips are common on fglass boats. I have repaired mine in the past with this product - available from Whitworths, Supe
rcheap Auto etc.
The process is to wash down the area and exposed fglass with acetone and let it dry. Then follow the instructions on how to mix and apply the repair filler. Sand / cut / polish the final surface once set. (When I started I experimented by mixing a small batch just to see how the stuff behaved and how quickly it set. )
Final comment, if that damage was on the transom, I would be much more interested in how long it had been left like that - especially submerged. Most transoms are constructed with plywood sandwiched between fglass/gelcoat layers. The underlying fglass (usually polyester resin) can hold water and hence the transom plywood may have got damp...and you don't want that.
Cheers
Zoran
-
Ahhhh.... you brought back so so many memories.... good on ya ! ... nice report and best of luck with the boating and fishing.
Cheers
Zoran
-
Mate... to me it looks fine and I personally would not worry about it for quite a while. Go fishing more !
But if it bothers you, inspect around the fuel filler - seems to be corroding more than other parts - there may be some metal to alloy contact there or it could just be the crevice that holds moisture.
Personally I'd go bare alloy in around the fuel filler, and just touch up (or go bare) gunwales over time.
I keep this link for whenever I want to refresh my understanding of corrosion - https://www.clubmarine.com.au/internet/clubmarine.nsf/docs/MG19-5+Technical
Cheers
Zoran
-
11 minutes ago, Night raider said:
Zoran
I plan on purchasing a GME Epirb/gps tomorrow are these registered online another words could I purchase the epirb then go offshore next day or wait for do I need to wait on registration cert??
Also plan on buying floating hand held vhf radio without the having the required radio licence would I be in trouble during safety inspections, I do plan on getting the radio license just plan on getting offshore this weekend
thanks for any info you can provide
You can register EPIRBs online .. its quick and easy...you can tie it to a number of craft....eg your boat and your offroad vehicle if you are into 4wd outings. So spread the investment across a number of sports. As JonD says they last a long time.
You can have a radio on board without a licence.... and have it on to listen to VHF 16 distress frequency. Talking on VHF without a certificate of proficiency (ie without training) is whats prohibited. But then again I have not heard of anyone being fined for using it in an emergency situation.
For added safety, you can log in (and log off on return) with Marine Rescue Sydney via Phone or their mobile app (Marine Rescue NSW). If you download the app.... its a press of a button to call them, the number is in the app. You can also create a profile in the app of your vessel, car, favorite boat ramp etc... and use the app to log in and log off.
Welcome to the wide world offshore !
Cheers
Zoran
-
Not sure...guess you could call Maritime and ask. I've just not bothered to explore that path.
Without being over dramatic what's your life or some other's life or boat worth? Open waters present an additional challenge to boaters. I believe in a skippers duty of care. I'm responsible for my crew and my craft. Also responsible to monitor/answer emergency calls for help - I'd want the same duty of care from other skippers if I required assistance. Over the years I have towed or stayed with my share of craft until help arrived.
If it all goes pear shaped and the authorities subsequently conclude you were in open waters without the required safety gear, then you as skipper would be held responsible for your crew and craft. I also suspect the insurance company would walk away as well. ... and the mishap may not even be your fault (eg someone runs into you).
Cheers
Zoran
-
51 minutes ago, TK01 said:
....
The bottom of the hull is already bare alloy so it would blend in quite nicely.
....
What's this "blend in" ... it sounds so compromising... mate it would be "CUSTOM" .... just the way you wanted it !!!
Cheers
Zoran
PS - will keep an eye out for the photos.
-
Yep I was going to mention Navionics and Fishing Deluxe as options.
Fishing Deluxe is an iPhone app (http://lifewaresolutions.com/) $2.99 in app store (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/fishing-deluxe-best-fishing/id485251405)
It has ability to keep a fishing log: free format text, photo, co-ordinates, also can populate with the weather automatically etc. I dont use that function so cant vouch for usability but you might want to check out the app store.
FYI, I basically use it for the solunar tables for planning my trips out.
Cheers
Zoran
-
Hi TK01,
I don't own an alloy boat but have some experience with painted alloy as the pod and marlin board on my boat are alloy...I agree the pull apart and refit are probably as big a job as the prep and painting. That's why when I changed over the motor I took the opportunity to have the pod repainted - I used a car smash repairer to sand blast, etch prime and 2 pack spray the pod while still mounted to the boat. But after 17yrs of use I now have the inevitable dings and scratches and some blistering paint spots... I am not really concerned as to me its largely an aesthetic thing.
Are you concerned that without paint your boat will corrode quicker? From my perspective, there are many bare alloy boats out there - infact most commercial fisherman, oyster farmers etc run bare alloy. The alloy itself produces a dull coating (oxidisation) that in general prevents further corrosion. Its this oxidisation process that is blistering your paint...but it is also protecting the underlying metal. So I don't think any real damage has been done to the hull by flaking paint. The damage usually comes from electrolysis/galvanic corrosion where you have non alloy metals in contact with the hull eg: fittings to the hull that are incorrectly mounted without sealants inbetween, or old sinkers lying in contact with the alloy hull - and that type of corrosion can even happen where you drill through painted surfaces. Or from acidic liquids sitting in contact with the alloy for prolonged periods - this can manifest as a pinhole or cheese cloth perforated area on the alloy.
So maybe scrape away some of the flaking and have a good look at the underlying alloy as I think the first thing you would want to be comfortable with is that the boat structure has not been compromised.
Perhaps some raiders with bare alloy boats can chip in and share their experiences !
Once comfortable with that, evaluate do you like the boat, the way it handles and does it meet your fishing requirements? If it does maybe lean toward keeping it.
Regarding aesthetics, if you want to minimize the work but are concerned about aesthetics have you considered:
1) work around the fit out and go back to bare alloy
2) go bare alloy bottom of hull and paint top sides
Anyway, I feel for ya! ... putting in so much work into your pride and joy and being let down by the guy you hired must feel like the pits.
Best of luck.
Zoran
-
22 hours ago, JonD said:
You don't need an epirb untill you head more than 2nm offshore.
You are correct JonD... epirbs and radios are additional requirements once you are 2nm offshore...
But Night Raider ... just be aware that all the other safety gear for "Open Waters" is required to be onboard even if you are less then 2nm offshore but are in what Maritime defines as "Open Waters".
Maritime has defined sydney harbour "Open Waters" as a line from Cannae Pt (north harbour) to South Head. The map can be found here: http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/documents/maritime/usingwaterways/maps/boating-maps/9d-port-jackson.pdf
So even fishing North Head puts you into Open Waters.
Net is ....if you are experimenting around there already, just get the epirb and radio. It will make it safer for you and avoid the hassles if the conditions are right to duck further outside.
Cheers
Zoran
rcheap Auto etc.
Boat Unknown I.D
in Boating
Posted · Edited by zmk1962
correction
Looking at the lower hull I was going to go with a Haines..... but I think its a 490 SLR. The original post says 5.5m length, but that may be measuring to the bowsprit.... so the hull could be a 490. I am looking at how the windscreen fits the hull just behind the helm to distinguish between the V19R and 490 Hulls. Here some pic's:
490 SLR
V19R
Cheers
Zoran