zmk1962
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Posts posted by zmk1962
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11 hours ago, Captain Spanner said:
You will love that boat. I carry a couple of spare rollers and spare split pins. I have been caught out a couple of times when we have gone to pull the boat out and noticed one of the wobble rollers missing. I used to gaffa tape a towel around the arm with the missing roller so we weren't standard i the water but now I just have spares. We have also fitted solid plastic bumpers either side of the first keel roller on the rear cross member. So if you come in slightly askew driving onto the trailer the bow hits plastic not a gal bracket. Then you can spend less time fibreglassing on Sunday afternoons.
As I often have friends bringing the boat to the trailer I went the whole hog and covered everything in that area with HPDE skids... I can attest that it has reduced the need for fiber glassing ... Cheers Zoran
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4 hours ago, TheFoosh said:
The telltale will always run cold if cold water is going in. Desn't most of the cooling water get expelled via the exhaust and through the prop? That water should be warmer.
Edited my response to add more clarity as last response was bashed out on iphone screen and may have been abrupt:
The telltale does not always run cold on my 200hp merc or 15hp mariner. Telltale water is cold at start and goes warm/hot. My mechanic told me that it goes warm when the thermostats have opened. I flush for 10+ min after telltale goes warm. I use muffs + my silencer gizmo and fresh water input.
Most things in chemistry are driven by a gradient. Ie. The bigger the difference between the materials the faster they combine to reach equilibrium. So as you flush there is less and less salt in the motor. To get as much of that last bit of salt out you need as fresh water as possible. In the ideal world we’d be flushing with demineralized water - as that water has no soluble loading at all.
If someone buys me a few beers I’ll go back to my Chem Eng textbooks and dig up the salt (NaCl) in water solubility curves at various temperatures.
The underlying principles are that water can only carry so much dissolved salt before it reaches a saturation point at which it will not be able to absorb any more salt. As you approach that saturation point it will take longer and longer to dissolve salt as there is less gradient (difference) driving it. Heat will help reach the saturation point sooner.
So if you are flushing with a bucket - the results will be better if its a big bucket - the more water - the more salt you can dissolve - the more dilute the water is the bigger the gradient to get the last salt dissolved etc.
Or alternatively, do a bucket flush...then finish off with a short run on muffs and clean water.
Cheers
Zoran
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Looking at the lower hull I was going to go with a Haines..... but I think its a 490 SLR. The original post says 5.5m length, but that may be measuring to the bowsprit.... so the hull could be a 490. I am looking at how the windscreen fits the hull just behind the helm to distinguish between the V19R and 490 Hulls. Here some pic's:
490 SLR
V19R
Cheers
Zoran
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Now there’s one happy face.....Congratulations and welcome to the Haines club !!!!! (you may have gathered I’m very happy with mine !)
Cheers
Zoran
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Took me a while to work it out. You need an iPad with the GPS chip inside to get the GPS navigation to work - my research basically concluded the models that had a SIM card also had the GPS chip.
WiFi only ipads (no SIM) have very basic navigation capability by pinging off WiFi towers but they don’t work offshore. I tried hot spot to my iPhone - still did not work. In the end I sold my WiFi model on gumtree and bought a SIM model also on gumtree - all working now.
I run with NO SIM card installed and no hot spot - so there is NO mobile data usage when boating. When home the iPad is on my WiFi network and I do all the map updates, sync etc
Cheers Zoran
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2 minutes ago, Scratchie said:
You could opt for the cheaper unit and have navionics app on your phone/iPad. Works for me!
Yup again.... I mentioned at the start of this post that's exactly what I am using - but I loaded my Navionics onto an iPad Mini - I like the larger screen size to zoom in on the sonarchart !
Cheers
Zoran
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Yup... load as many safety measures as you can.
There is a nice user friendly feature as well... if you have your VHF proficiency certificate you can also get an MMSI (a world wide unique identifier). You can then enter that into your DSC enabled radio so that it becomes MMSI registered. From there you can DSC transmit/share your location to other folks that have an MMSI and DSC enabled VHF set. Seems like a very efficient way to transmit/share your location with your buddies (using 72-73-77 channels - recreational use - ofcourse). If you have a current model GPS/Chart plotter (that accepts NMEA in) should be able to see the other vessel - or plot their location as a way point.
I have not registered for MMSI yet... waiting for a few more buddies to get theirs... (and my GPS unit is old as I mentioned earlier)
Cheers
Zoran
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Nice....!! I'm scheduled to be there Saturday.... hope they hang around ! ... Cheers Zoran
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Thanks so much for sharing ! .....
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Most VHF radios with DSC (Digital Signal Calling) ... will be able to be hooked up to a GPS. The GPS provides the radio the Lat Long co-ordinates and the protocol they talk in is NMEA from memory. So when buying a GPS check that it has an NMEA out feature, and that the Radio has an NMEA in feature. Once connected and talking the VHF radio is constantly updated with your latest location co-ordinates. My VHF has a red emergency button under a plastic flip cover. Lift that and press... it broadcasts my location and distress signal. No Talk required. No wasted time.
Cheers
Zoran
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He Stanton, I would definitely go with a GPS system if heading offshore. Its a no brainer. I use mine on every trip. However, in my opinion whether you choose to go with a combo or dedicated sat nav setup is a separate decision.
There are very cheap ways to get into sat nav these days eg: you could get away with using your iPhone/iPad/Android and an app like Navionics Australia New Zealand. Its about $20 per year from memory.
As an example, I have an aging Seacharter Eagle combo .... The GPS part still works, tracks location but is aging and can't take the latest charts. The Sounder on the other hand is a great dual frequency unit (and since I have fitted my transducer as shoot through hull I can sound bottom even at >45knts). So until my sounder dies I am reluctant to rip it out and now I pretty well dedicate the Seacharter as a sounder and run with Navionics (Australia/NZ) on an iPad mini mounted on the dash in a waterproof case as my GPS system. Navionics has the latest sonar charts, latest map upgrades, community updates (fishing marks) and works pretty well.
So if price is a consideration you might consider trying Navionics on your iphone/android and see if it meets your requirements before you splash out on the combo.
BTW - back to the safety comment, most combo units have an NMEA out port. If you purchase a DSC enabled VHF radio, you can connect the NMEA out into the VHF radio and at the push of a button send out your Lat Long co-ordinates in a "digital Mayday message". You can't do that with your iPhone/iPad/Android set up. So there are pro-and cons.
(In my case my old combo still feeds the lat long to the VHF radio in the background while I have the display showing the sounder/fishfinder and the iPad my location).
Cheers and Best of luck.
Zoran
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Agree with earlier comment that when you get to this much build up then the only way to get rid of it is to pull apart and mechanically remove. I don't know of any product that will dissolve it but keep the block intact. In general I've always been told that high water pressure just forces salt further into cracks etc. What you want is copious quantities of fresh water to dissolve away the salt. So +1 for flushing for as long as possible (and staying friends with the neighbours).
Re noise... silence using bucket/bin if the setup and location is convenient to allow moving a bin around, but if you are on a hose out in the street, or the leg is high then consider making up a silencer/muffler. I've posted my DIY solution previously here ...
Cheers
Zoran
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Awesome Night Raider !!! No need to apologize...its a learning curve ... We're all just at different parts of the curve. I have found in life (and particularly in boating) the only dumb question is the one that's not asked. There's always something to learn.
If you haven't found it already, check the Fishraider "Links" tab. Lots of helpful info to plan your offshore outings.
Cheers
Zoran
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Night Raider.
Navionics- Switch on community edits and you will see many marks with descriptions.
Cheers
Zoran
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I can make out ABG400 on the side of my tin (second last picture I posted just above the barcode)... so its the same product part number but earlier manufacturing date. I bought mine from Bias marine just before they shut doors - perhaps 3+yrs old now. The tin picture from the website has something written in the aqua coloured box below Septone... can't quite make it out...
But it looks like they have made some product changes and the new product has the below waterline restriction. Good Catch Fishop !
So back to Bears question... to fix the gelcoat gouge, the process is as discussed ... you will need a gelcoat putty (read the product fine print) or you can mix your own: flowcoat + something like AEROSIL filler (to make it a paste and non sag for vertical surfaces). They are all relatively in-expensive.
Cheers
Zoran
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...and the last two photos... probably the most relevant ones !!
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Seems I have hit the 4.88mb limit... have to figure out how to post the last two photos....
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Hi Fishop,
My tin is several years old and does not have that warning (I've read it 4 times now!!). Maybe Septone changed the formula - perhaps they have switched to a cellulose thickener to make it easier to sand - the cellulose may absorb water. I guess a call to the distributor in Australia should sort this out. Good catch if they have changed it - thanks !
BTW yes I have used it below the water line... no issues so far... my boat is not moored....so it is in the water max 48hrs continuous.
Attaching photos of my tin and the labels next.
Cheers
Zoran
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Hi Bear,
From the picture it looks like the damage happened near the bow... this is one of the strongest parts of the hull with the most fglass layers so I doubt any structural damage has occurred that would require more than gelcoat repair.
Gelcoat is the cosmetic and waterproof layer that sits on top of the fglass (its the fglass which provides the strength and structure). Repairing Gelcoat is fairly simple. However, if the underlying fglass was damaged then it would be much more complex involving opening up the glass to further expose the fglass strands, using fglass cloth/chopped strand + resin to rebuild the structure, and then topcoating with gelcoat/flowcoat. (pretty much what rick described previously).
Gelcoat chips are common on fglass boats. I have repaired mine in the past with this product - available from Whitworths, Supe
rcheap Auto etc.
The process is to wash down the area and exposed fglass with acetone and let it dry. Then follow the instructions on how to mix and apply the repair filler. Sand / cut / polish the final surface once set. (When I started I experimented by mixing a small batch just to see how the stuff behaved and how quickly it set. )
Final comment, if that damage was on the transom, I would be much more interested in how long it had been left like that - especially submerged. Most transoms are constructed with plywood sandwiched between fglass/gelcoat layers. The underlying fglass (usually polyester resin) can hold water and hence the transom plywood may have got damp...and you don't want that.
Cheers
Zoran
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Ahhhh.... you brought back so so many memories.... good on ya ! ... nice report and best of luck with the boating and fishing.
Cheers
Zoran
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Mate... to me it looks fine and I personally would not worry about it for quite a while. Go fishing more !
But if it bothers you, inspect around the fuel filler - seems to be corroding more than other parts - there may be some metal to alloy contact there or it could just be the crevice that holds moisture.
Personally I'd go bare alloy in around the fuel filler, and just touch up (or go bare) gunwales over time.
I keep this link for whenever I want to refresh my understanding of corrosion - https://www.clubmarine.com.au/internet/clubmarine.nsf/docs/MG19-5+Technical
Cheers
Zoran
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11 minutes ago, Night raider said:
Zoran
I plan on purchasing a GME Epirb/gps tomorrow are these registered online another words could I purchase the epirb then go offshore next day or wait for do I need to wait on registration cert??
Also plan on buying floating hand held vhf radio without the having the required radio licence would I be in trouble during safety inspections, I do plan on getting the radio license just plan on getting offshore this weekend
thanks for any info you can provide
You can register EPIRBs online .. its quick and easy...you can tie it to a number of craft....eg your boat and your offroad vehicle if you are into 4wd outings. So spread the investment across a number of sports. As JonD says they last a long time.
You can have a radio on board without a licence.... and have it on to listen to VHF 16 distress frequency. Talking on VHF without a certificate of proficiency (ie without training) is whats prohibited. But then again I have not heard of anyone being fined for using it in an emergency situation.
For added safety, you can log in (and log off on return) with Marine Rescue Sydney via Phone or their mobile app (Marine Rescue NSW). If you download the app.... its a press of a button to call them, the number is in the app. You can also create a profile in the app of your vessel, car, favorite boat ramp etc... and use the app to log in and log off.
Welcome to the wide world offshore !
Cheers
Zoran
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Not sure...guess you could call Maritime and ask. I've just not bothered to explore that path.
Without being over dramatic what's your life or some other's life or boat worth? Open waters present an additional challenge to boaters. I believe in a skippers duty of care. I'm responsible for my crew and my craft. Also responsible to monitor/answer emergency calls for help - I'd want the same duty of care from other skippers if I required assistance. Over the years I have towed or stayed with my share of craft until help arrived.
If it all goes pear shaped and the authorities subsequently conclude you were in open waters without the required safety gear, then you as skipper would be held responsible for your crew and craft. I also suspect the insurance company would walk away as well. ... and the mishap may not even be your fault (eg someone runs into you).
Cheers
Zoran
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51 minutes ago, TK01 said:
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The bottom of the hull is already bare alloy so it would blend in quite nicely.
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What's this "blend in" ... it sounds so compromising... mate it would be "CUSTOM" .... just the way you wanted it !!!
Cheers
Zoran
PS - will keep an eye out for the photos.
rcheap Auto etc.
Wobble Roller Advice sought
in Boating
Posted
Thanks mate.... had her built in 2001 by a local company.... added a few things like the HPDE skids but she's still running original springs, axles, disc rotors etc.. a bit of care after each trip and some maintenance goes a long way. Cheers Zoran